September 24, 2026 - Kolympia (Casa Cook)
Day 16 - glad that we were not planning on doing anything today
Unfortunately Norm woke up feeling nauseous, so much so that breakfast was out of the question.
Sad that as Gayle said the Casa Cook buffet breakfast was one of the best she has ever experienced.
Gayle went down on her own, enjoying the wide variety of items, along with taking a number of photos in order to show Norm what he was missing. But he did not much care.
Gayle, along with the help of last night's waiter Yannis, brought back a nice 'care package' - rolls, pies, a little meat and cheese, orange juice and a wonderful fruit tray.
Nothing was eaten immediately but during the day the ill feeling began to pass. Norm nibbled a bit.
Gayle, in addition to caring for Norm, then spent part of the day wandering around the wonderful property and making use of our pool. Very relaxing.
By dinner time the nauseousness had mostly passed, enough so that Norm was up to going to the restaurant for something light.
Gayle had the Smoked Eggplant Salad served with Rhodian Pita Bread while Norm the Falafal with sweet chili sauce and sweet potato puree flavoured with garlic and fresh thyme. As we said we ate light.
Back to our room with lights out early. Hopefully tomorrow Norm will be able to experience the Casa Cook breakfast [in fact he did with many more photos to come].
Dips, sauces etc. Cheese pies.
September 23, 2026 - Rodos (Aethrion Luxury Suites)
to Kolympia (Casa Cook)
Day 15 - moving day from Aethrion up the coast to Casa Cook
We left Aethrion this morning for a relatively short drive (just over an hour) up the coast to Kolympia and our next lodging Casa Cook. Although Aethrion Luxury Suites had a few of redeeming features, specifically the beautiful Indian teak furniture, the friendly staff and the nice pool with more than enough sun beds, otherwise it was a disappointment, and certainly not 'luxury'. Breakfast was weak - more of an American style than Greek, a considerable disappointment. While we did not eat dinner at Aethrion we heard from the British couple, Mark and Jane, it was not very good. The beach was a considerable walk and according to Gayle somewhat rocky although there were a number of colourful marbelized stones. And as we have said our room, while having very nice furniture and being large was non-descript, and came with a colony of ants. Our least favourite room of the trip.
Before heading up the coast we returned to Plimmira Fish Restaurant where we had previously eaten in 2010. Norm again had a delicious grilled octopus tentacle while Gayle simply a plate of fried potatoes.
Yiannis, our waiter from Pelecanos last night saw us and stopped over to say hello. Greeks are so friendly.
We also met a very nice couple, Mary (Pappas) and Allen from Brisbane, Australia. Mary is of Greek heritage and visits often. A nice chat.
Along the drive we passed Agios Geronimos Church in Pylonos. Known for its elegant arcade and an interior covered in Byzantine-style frescoes the church was restored after an earthquake in 1926.
And even better we were upgraded from the Double Standard that we had booked to a Split Level Suite (both with Veranda and Sharing Pool). We're not sure why although we theorize it may in part have been due to our booking directly, as is our custom, rather than through an agency. The suite was indeed luxury.
We ate dinner at the resort - starting with a Spicy Pumpkin Veloute - a pumpkin soup with ginger, croutons and chili oil that we shared. Gayle then enjoyed a superb Mushroom Risotto, a creamy risotto with Portabello and Button mushrooms, fresh butter and Naxos Graviera cheese with truffle oil. A definite 10 out of 10. Norm had a large Chicken Souvlaki with mushrooms, cherry tomatoes, french fries and Rhodian pita. Perhaps it was the grilled octopus at lunch, but inspite of the meal being excellent as well Norm was unable to finish it. Service from Yiannis and Kostas was top notch.
We certainly wanted to stay in the south-west of Rhodes, primarily for the restaurants we wanted to return to. On the whole we were disappointed with our choice of Aethrion Luxury Suites. Perhaps those on the front, with the plunge pools are 'luxury' but those on the back, i.e. ours are not. Yes they are large, with a large outdoor space, but very basic, i.e. with virtually no character.
Here is our terrace with admittedly a very nice table but nothing much else, and a view of an apartment building with noisy kids.
The Agios Gerasimos Church, located in Pylonos, near Lindos. The church features the characteristic red-and-tan stone/brick banding.
For Gayle a spectacular Mushroom Risotto and for Norm a Chicken Souvlaki.
September 22, 2026 - Rodos (Aethrion Luxury Suites)
Day 15 - very quiet ... a do nothing day; return to Pelecanos Taverna (where we ate in 2010) for dinner
Very little to comment on today as we spent the entire day at Aethrion. The day started with another so-so breakfast. While the Philipine staff are very nice and friendly the breakfast is nothing to write home about. Beyond a few olives, tomatoes and cucumbers there was nothing 'Greek' as an option. Croissants, cakes, fruit, pancakes, boiled eggs and omelettes - very basic.
The highlight of Aethrion is certainly it's pool. Nicely designed and reasonably warm. While Norm did not get in Gayle very much enjoyed her time, including use of the 'donut'.
Back in 2010 another taverna we ate at was Pelecanos in the village of Vati, only 10 kms away. With good memories of that meal back then we returned. The tavena serves traditional dishes made with local products, mediterranean flavours and handmade desserts in a family owned, traditional, friendly environment! We started with grilled garlic bread followed by a honey and sesame seed covered baked feta cheese. Both our main courses were 10s - Gayle's leek pie and Norm's Kleftiko After dinner we were provided the now traditional 'gift' - tonight a small glass of tsipouro accompanied by a chocolate nougat / torrene. During dinner Stavros, the owner, came by to ask us about our meal. We mentioned it was every bit as good as back in 2010 when we also ate at Pelecanos. A nice re-connection.
A short drive back to Aethrion to bring a quiet day to an end.
Pelecanos taverna is in the village of Vati.
Here is Stavros, the owner with Norm.
Breaking one of the cardinal rules of photography (having something 'grow' out of the subject's head) but somehow this 'crown' is appropriate for the Princess.
September 21, 2026 - Rodos (Aethrion Luxury Suites)
Day 14 - returning to Lachania and Taverna Platanos
After a good sleep - we were tired - we went down to the pool area for breakfast. Definately the weakest breakfast of the trip - other than a few olives not Greeek in any way. Better than nothing ... sure, but not much to write home about or take photos of.
What is no doubt the nicest aspect of Aethrion is the pool. Large, well designed with many comfortable sun beds and not at all crowded. While there we did meet and chat extensively with a British couple Jane and Mark, who were here for a week. Another couple that travels extensively, tomorrow they are headed out on a day trip to Symi.
One of the reasons for spending some time in the very south of Rhodes island was to return to a number of restaurants we enjoyed back in 2010. We checked out the taverna at Plimmiri, agreeing we would return for lunch another day.
As we continued our drive we saw a road to Agios Georgios Beach, a huge windsurfing / kite sailing destination. We're glad we took the 8 km drive (each way) to the beach to see the large number of individuals making use of the wind. Very colourful.
We then continued to the west coast, driving north to the turn off to Skiadi Monestary that we had visited on our previous trip. It was then further through the mountains where we passed the Church of St. Irene Chrysovalantou, very photoable in the settting sun.
Then past Masanagros and on to Lachania.
While chatting with staff we opened our travel blog to show a photo of this young fellow who served us many years ago. Our waiter said "Wait" and left, only to bring back this fellow and his son. Michalis (the dad) was the same boy in the photo who now was with his son Manolis, also a server at Platanos.
Sometimes returning to a place does not live up to one's memories but that certainly was not the case here at Platanos where nothing much has changed other than the size and one no longer chooses one's meal from the stove. The service was friendly and engaged, the food very traditional Greek, and the ambiance wonderful as previously experienced. Even Tom wandered by - not convinced he remembered us but we did him.
After our meal it was a relatively short 10 minute drive back to Aethrion.
The gorgeous Aethrion pool being enjoyed by Gayle.
Goats roaming free near the restauarant ... and no we did not see goat stew on the menu.
The priest stopped by for a visit and chat.
Stavros, the greeter guy.
September 20, 2026 - Naxos (Grotta Hotel)
to Rodos (Aethrion Luxury Suites)
Day 13 - Naxos to Rodos followed by a drive across Rodos to the south-west.
Grotta Hotel promotes it's extensive breakfast, and certainly it did not disappoint. Beyond all the standard things one would expect (coffee, breads, juice (although not fresh), cereal etc.) there was a vast array of traditional Greek items, including many pies (spinach, cheese, zucchini, broccoli and mince meat ... at least), grilled vegetables, dips, olives, pizza (yes pizza for breakfast) and desserts including orange tart and cherry strudle.
While the Grotta Hotel may not be the most memorable we have / will stay at it, without much character it served our purpose. Our room was functional with a small outdoor area, the roof terrace provided nice views ot the Temple and sunset, the staff were nice, the availability of food in the evening was great for us, the breakfast very extensive and the 'free' transfers from the port and to the airport much appreciated, all for a reasonable price (135 euros).
The hotel's driver took us to the airport after breakfast. Like Paros the Naxos airport is small and crowded. However with Norm's mobility assistance we moved to the front of the line, boarding the plane first.
We arrived in Athens as scheduled and were escorted to the Goldair Lounge as we waited for our connection to Rodos. While there we met a young couple - Chloe and Cory - from Toronto, on their honeymoon, bringing back memories of being on our honeymoon in Greece many (46 to be precise) years ago.
We were then escorted to our plane in a 'lift'. Gayle asked if she could join Norm rather than being separated. There was initially some hesitation from our attendant but when Gayle mentioned she was feeling a bit 'dizzy' she was given the ok by the attendant's manager, provided she too was transported in a wheelchair. So there we are, side by side, both in our wheelchairs. How cute. It's a shame we didn't have a camera at the ready as Norm had a bit of fun with our attendant. While waiting to enter the plane she asked if we were ready for our flight to Rhodes. Norm responded with "Rhodes? Aren't we going to Santorini?" The expression on her face! Norm quickly pointed out he was just joking but still it was priceless.
The 45 minute flight was smooth and on time. After landing we enjoyed assistance picking up our luggage and then were taken to the car rental counter, and then even further to the car rental pick-up area outside the airport. Fabulous service.
It was after 5:00 pm by the time we were on the road for our two plus hour drive across the island to the south-west and Aethrion Luxury Suites.
As expected the first portion of the drive down the coast from the airport was in the light, but slow. Then as we started to cross the island the terrain became more hllly as we drove through pine forests and a few mountain villages.
Eventually the sun set with the remainder of the drive in the dusk and then dark. We eventually arrived to Aethrion.
Being somewhat late and having had some food in the lounge, we skipped dinner as Norm was somewhat tired from the two flights, time in Athens and two plus hour drive.
We fell asleep very quickly.
On the right about to enter the plane form the lift vehicle after being driven across the tarmac from the terminal to our plane.
September 19, 2026 - Amorgos (Pano Gitonia)
to Naxos (Grotta Hotel)
Day 12 - bye bye Pano Gitonia; on to a one-nighter in Naxos
We again so much enjoyed our stay in Amorgos. Returing to Pano Gitonia - check. Seeing Theo again - check. Justifying bringing our juice squeezer with morning glasses of freshly squeezed orange juice - check. A number of very nice meals in Lagada - check. A scenic ride to and authentic roadside meal at the far end of the island - check. Counting goats - check. Great pastries and pies from Aegali's bakery - check. Gayle enjoying a couple of swims - check.
After packing and saying goodbye to Theo we drove to Katapola to catch the ferry. As we arrived at the FM office to return our car there was Greg and Margaret having just returned theirs. The ferry on the fast SeaJets was 1 hr 10 minutes with a stop mid-way in Koufonisi. Our driver from Grotta Hotel was at the port waiting for us - easy peasy.
Our room was as expected - somewhat small but functional with an outdoor area. The hotel itself is a bit east of the port with a nice view to the Temple of Apollo and on to Paros. We went to the rooftop to see the sunset where we met we believe Grant and ? (darn I misplaced the paper where I wrote their names and don't remember - how embarrasing), originally from South Africa, but now living in London. They were in Naxos after having been in Schinoussa. We had a nice chat about the small Cyclades. The sunset, while not spectacular, was decent. What was interesting was the hoards of people who marched to the Temple in what appeared to be a line of ants to get that Instagram sunset photo through the columns of the temple.
Rather than take a taxi into and back from the port we decided to eat at the Hotel. We started with Saganaki (graviere cheese) with tomato jam, followed by tomato fritters. We then had a Naxian cheese plate with four different cheeses, accompanied by some grapes, jam and bread sticks. Not fine dining (nor popular as we were the only ones eating at the hotel) but not having to go out with my knee was a bonus. And of course there was a 'gift' of a peanut / chocolate mousse.
tomato jam.
September 18, 2026 - Amorgos (Pano Gitonia)
Day 11 - our last day in Amorgos ... until of course we return
Another (is this getting old?) leisurely day. The weather was perfect. We had breakfast in the morning followed by a short visit by Theo and Abe. Then it was back to Katapola to purchase our ferry tickets - no problems. In the afternon, with the temperatures a bit warmer than the previous days, we headed down to Aegali beach where Gayle joyfully got into the water.
For dinner we returned to Lagada. The walk to Nikos Tavern was further and steeper than expected. Upon arriving we saw a priest just outside chatting with a fellow. Shortly after we sat down we saw the priest then leading a procession in respect of presumably someone who had passed. A number of locals approached and kissed what was presumably of photo of the individual.
We had a relatively light, but good, dinner. For Norm the country sausage on the grill with french fries, and for Gayle a very much appreciated and enjoyed 'Nikos' Eggplant', an oven baked dish of eggplant, feta cheese, tomato and onion with spices. Delicious.
The walk back down was admittedly somewhat challenging - long and relatively steep with many wide steps. There was this cat that did not have any issue but for Norm not so easy. But he made it!
Another perfect day!
Back to Pano Gitonia to start to get ready for tomorrow's departure.
An 'orange' breakfast with freshly squeezed orange juice and orange pie.
September 17, 2026 - Amorgos (Pano Gitonia)
Day 11 - a drive to the other end of the island
After our now usual breakfast routine, and although we have done so a number of times, we decided to drive to the far (south-west) end of the island. It was another beautiful day to do so with the drive being as impressive as each previous time.
We eventually made it past the shipwreck of the Olympia
"The shipwreck of Olympia (which ironically was previously called ‘Inland’) sank in February 1980. The captain was seeking a place near the coast where they could find shelter from the strong north winds. But the rough sea threw them into the bay of Liverio near to the beach of Kalotaritissa. Luckily the whole crew was rescued. The shipwreck is in many scenes of the movie “The Big Blue”. vIt’s also a popular diving spot on the island."
to the very pretty bay of Kalotaritissa where Gayle enjoyed a swim in the nice waters.
On our return we decided to stop at the traditional family tavern T'Apanemo where we enjoyed an excellent meal of Greek Salad, fried potatoes (like french fries but so much better) and for Norm a 1/2 kg of delicious lamb chops.
During our meal we got talking to an American couple, Greg and Margaret, who actually consider themselves Swiss having lived in Switzerland for the past 25 or so years. Like Norm there favourite island is Amorgos where they come every year for a couple of weeks.
There is so much to see along the drive, from the goats and sheep to the dramatic coastline, the gorgeous blue sea, and many many (mostly small) churches among other sites. A very pretty drive.
Upon returning to Aegali we stopped into the ferry ticket office to discover that the this office only sold Blue Star tickets and not those for Sea Jets that we will be on ferrying to Naxos. As Norm was to arrange 'assistance' we decided that in spite of it now being nearly 9:00 pm we would drive to Katapola and the Sea Jets office. So off we go. The drive is a little over half an hour but unfortunately by the time we arrived the small kiosk office was closed. We did learn when it will be open tomorrow so again we are off, returning to Potamos, knowing we will have to repeat the trip in the morning.
While the evening ferry ticket search was a waste of time, and a shame as if we had known we could have stopped in Katapola on our drive back from the far end of Amorgos, the day was otherwise very enjoyable.
A delicious meal of Greek Salad, fried potatoes and a 1/2 kilo of lamb chops.
A gnarly olive tree. And colourful bougainvillea.
A gorgeous church on the drive back higlighted by the setting sun.
Throughout the island are these freshly painted white churches with blue domes.
A shrine on the approach to Aegali for a young man who lost his life.
September 16, 2026 - Amorgos (Pano Gitonia)
Day 10 - We didn't even go out for dinner
Many of our days are pretty laid back and relaxing. But today we took it to a whole other level.
We started with a simple but wonderful breakfast on our terrace. We bring a juicer we purchaed a few years ago for precisely this reason - to squeeze oranges for fresh orange juice here where we do not have breakfast included. Norm is the squeezer with the outcome being the most tasteful OJ. Included were a few other items we purchased - yoghurt with a peach, spinach and cheese pies, bread, Amorgos cheese and a couple of melomakarona walnut and honey cookies
The weather today was not great - not bad but just not good enough to have us head down to the beach for a swim. Rather, we spent the entire day on our terrace gazing over the blue waters of the bay. We relaxed, aka napped, worked on our travel blogs and caught up on emails from home.
Not feeling the need to go out to a restaurant, having ample leftovers from last night, including half a Greek Salad, potatoes and one of Norm's sheep burgers, along with a bottle of wine from Pambelos Lodge we decided to 'eat in', during which we enjoyed another spectacular sunset.
Although getting into the water would have been nice, for us this is an otherwise near perfect vacation day - relaxing in a beautiful environment enjoying the peaceful vibe of a relatively remote, quiet Greek island.
Gayle waiting for her breakfast.
Norm's hand squeezed fresh orange juice.
Tonight 's dinner were leftovers from last night eaten on our terrace with a bottle of wine.
minute passed.
September 15, 2026 - Amorgos (Pano Gitonia)
Day 9 - Our first full day in Amorgos
One of the nice things about having been to Amorgos five times previously is that there is no burning desire to see a lot of places, as we have seen them all.
Not having breakfast groceries (Pano Gitonia does not provide breakfast but does have small kitchenettes with a hot plate and fridge that allows for preparation of breakfast and light meals) we went across the bay and up the hill to Tholaria, to a cafe we had been to on previous trips. Unfortunately it was closed leaving us to have coffee (and a few cookies) in a hotel on the main square, a square that was frequented by a couple of free roaming donkees.
We then returned to Aegali where we bought oranges, yoghurt, a peach, coffee, milk, spinach and cheese pies, an orange pie, a karidopita (a Greek walnut cake) and a couple of melomakarona walnut and honey cookies for a snack and breakfast for the next few days.
After spending a quiet afternoon at Pano Gitonia we returned to Lagada for dinner, to Loukani Xana, a Cretan restaurant we had also eaten at a couple of years ago. Again we enjoyed a wonderful meal starting with a plate of Cretan cheese with sweet chili sauce and Cretan rusks. Gayle then had the small green pies of spinach and fennel and a very large plate of delicious fried potatoes. Norm had what he had on our previous visit - the sheep burgers on pita bread with yogurt and tomato jam. Norm tried the sour cherry juice the only disappointing aspect of the meal. We ordered way too much food, bringing a considerable amount back with us.
The walk back down from the restaurant was a little tougher for Norm but he made it to then drive down the mountain and back to Pano Gitonia.
Bougainvellia and a traditionally blue painted door in the alleyways of Lagada.
Loukani Xana with tables in the alleyway.
Inside Loukani Xana are musical instruments, including a lute and a lyra, both typical of Crete.
September 14, 2026 - Koufonisia (Pambelos Lodge)
to Amorgos (Pano Gitonia)
Day 8 - Another moving day as we leave Koufonisia and arrive in Amorgos
Today we depart Gayle's favourite island of Koufonisia, making our way to Norm's favourite island of Amorgos. Our ferry is not scheduled until 12:40 pm allowing for a leisurely morning, including one final Pambelos breakfast.
We say our goodbyes to Giorgio (who is the Best), Litsa and Olga, indicating it is our hope to be back in two years.
The goregeous colours of the water in the port harbour remind us of just one of the reasons we love this island so much.
The ferry was 20 minutes late with the trip on the fast SeaJets only 25 minutes from Koufonisia to Katapola. FM Car Rental, from whom we rent have moved their office to directly across from where the ferry docked making the walk much shorter. The process was again very efficient and we were quickly on our way.
Our tradition when driving in Amorgos is to count goats. Today we recorded 54 on the way from Katapola to Potamos, where we returned to Pano Gitonia, a family run (Theo and Pookie) lodging that was a traditional family house with an old bakery, stables and studios. All are decorated in the traditional way with stones, wooden ceiling, marble sinks etc. Each has its own veranda with fantastic views of the sea. This is our 6th stay at Pano Gitonia.
We arrive to catch up with Theo. We saw Pookie for only a very brief time as she is preparing to leave for Vancouver tomorrow. Theo has a fellow helping him ... Abe, from Ethiopia. We are in Stable 1, the only room available for five nights when we booked. A smaller room, particulalry with a small kitchenette, it is very cute with a wonderful terrace and its stellar view. As an added benefit it is reached after 'only' 22 steps, the fewest for any room.
After settling in we enjoyed time on our terrace before going out to dinner. We returned to a restauarnt, To Moschoudaki, at which we had a great experience two years ago, chatting with the owner, and her son. Upon arriving we received an inquisitive look from our server. Both he and us then immediately recognized each other, enjoying a very nice chat.
For dinner we started with a green bean salad - mostly marinated green beans with some zuchinni and garlic potatoes. Gayle then had the chick peas while Norm the meatballs in white mushroom sauce. Unfortunately they were out of orange pie for dessert, but did have orange cake which Theo offered in its place 'as a gift'. It was nice to turn back the clock and enjoy a nice meal as we had a couple of years ago.
After a short walk to our car and a 10 to 15 minute drive we were back in Potamos and Pano Gitonia.
Waiting at the Koufonisia dock for the arrival of the Seajets, and about to board.
Pookie who is off to Vancouver tormorrow.
Colourful bougainvillea on the property.
Looking out from our unit across our terrace.
Norm catching up with Theo.
On the drive to dinner in Lagada we encountered a number of pigs and goats along the road. We love the many and varioous animials we see on our trips.
We returned to To Moschoudaki where while eating in 2024 we had a nice chat with Theofollitis and his mother.
The appetizer menu ... there is another board for main dishes.
Theofillitis. A priest chatting with a local outside the restaurant.
September 13, 2026 - Koufonisia (Pambelos Lodge)
Day 7 - Same old same old ... with old being very good
Today was again very similar to the previous two days, differentiated by the beach and the restaurant we went to. And we love it. We love waking up to our view across the water to Keros. We love the Pambelos breakfast. We love relaxing on our beautiful terrace. We love spending time in the water - today at Fanos beach, and we love a great meal - tonight at Georgio's brother's restaurant Armira Kai Pioto in Chora.
Each morning we noticed and smiled at this couple, but hadn't engaged in conversation. Until this morning. Gayle initiated a chat with Funda and her partner. Turns out they are from Istanbul and are very familiar with the coast we will be visiting in Turkiye. Funda gave us a number of suggestions, as well as her phone number with an offer to help in any way she can. So kind and friendly.
For dinner we were assured by Litsa that Armira Kai Pioto was open this evening so back to Chora we go. Norm works his way up the main 'road', knowing the after dinner 'down' will be a challenge. As we expected the effort was very well worth it as we enjoyed a wonderful meal. We started with bread and olive oil that was served with a nice (not very salty) olive tepenade. Gayle had one of her best dishes ever - Pounda - cheese ravioli filled with black summer truffles, served in a cream sauce with mushrooms. Norm's Mikri Plaka - shrimp skioufichta pasta with white cream sauce, Anthotyro cheese, Naxos cherry tomatoes and fresh herbs was equally good. It was such a large serving that quite shockingly Norm was unable to finish. We each had a very nice glass of white wine - for Norm a Chardonnay from 3 Genies Winery, Pella and for Gayle an Asyrtiko from Muses Estate, Boetica. We were offered and enjoyed an after-dinner baklava like 'gift'.
The walk back down the hill was not fun but Norm made it (with a few rests), followed by an easy drive back to Pambelos to bring our last night in Koufonisia to an end.
We know we have posted a similar photo a number of times before, but with this being what we wake up to each morning here at Pambelos it never gets old.
Looking to the sea from the breakfast area. A home on the ridge above Pambelos.
Some of today's breakfast choices - fresh orange juice; yoghurt with fresh fruit; a ham and cheese omelet and chocolate cake.
One of the many cats around Pambelos. Gerasimos chatted with us every morning.
Funda, from Istanbul, Tukiye, who provided a number of suggestions for our upcoming time in Turkiye.
We spent part of the afternoon having a swim at the sandy, beautiful Fanos beach.
Sights from Fanos beach.
The owner of Lavanda E Rosemarino doing what she has done for years ... feed the stray cats with leftovers.
Olives on a tree in the garden of Armira Kai Pioto.
September 12, 2026 - Koufonisia (Pambelos Lodge)
Day 6 - Getting into the Koufonisia routine
As was the case yesterday we spent the early morning on our terrace, working on our travel blogs and enjoying the views across the water to Keros Island.
It was then down to the breakfast area where we again filled ourselves with the vast amount of food available - from pies (spinach or cheese) to cakes (carrot or chocolate) to eggs (fried, hard boiled or omelet) to cereal to bread to fresh juice (orange or lemon). The choices seem endless.
After breakfast it was back to our room to continue working on our travel blogs, plan the rest of the day, and enjoy a short nap.
Mid afternoon we headed out across the island to Pori Beach for a swim. Pori stretches around a lovely crescent-shaped bay on the northeastern edge of Ano Koufonisi, often regarded as the finest beach on the island, which is high praise given the quality of the other beaches. The beach, sloping gently into the water is essentially nothing but sand. The water is clear and warm. The bay is populated by a number of sail-boats / yachts and serviced by the water taxis. The only downside is the absence of shade.
After returning we headed into Chora to purchase our ferry tickets and dinner. Unfortunately Armira Kai Pioto was unexpectedly closed meaning we had to seek out another restaurant. While considering our options Gayle came upon a wedding at the town's main church. We waited around for a short while to see the bride approach along the main pedestrian 'road'. She arrived dancing, with presumably her brother and father, an interesting entrance to a wedding. She then met her husband to be outside the church with the two of them entering together.
We ended up choosing Melissa for dinner, a basic Greek restaurant - nothing fancy but solid food. Gayle had the Gemista (tomatoes stuffed with rice) while Norm the lamb in the oven, along with a plate of fries.
After dinner Norm admittedly struggled with the downhill walk back to the van, but slowly / safely made his way. We then drove back to Pambelos where we enjoyed the evening on our terrace.
We have a video that we have been
unable to upload.
We will do so after returning home.
While Gayle had the Gemista - rice stuffed tomatoes.
September 11, 2026 - Koufonisia (Pambelos Lodge)
Day 5 - Back to Gayle's favourite Greek island (and Norm's second favourite)
We started our day by wandering down to breakfast 10:00 ish for the certainly more than one can eat Pambelos morning meal. Coffee of course and either fresh orange juice or fresh lemon juice ... or both. Then bread and jam and spinach or cheese pies. Muesli (for Norm) and yoghurt, with or without fruit, with or without honey ... or simply fresh fruit. Then Giorgio's massive omelets or hard boiled or fried eggs, with or without bacon. To finish either chocolate cake or carrot cake ... or both. And no we did not have everything offered. Breakfast was served by Olga, originally from Siberia but she has been in Greece for 20 years and in Koufonisia for the past two.
One of the things we have enjoyed about the small island of Koufonisia (area only 5.7 sq km; permanent population 391) was that one walks everywhere, i.e. while there were rentals of bicycles and motorbikes there were no cars to rent, at least until this year. Over the years water taxis were added, then followed by one taxi. With Norm's knees and mobility challenges we decided to rent a vehicle, in spite of its significant cost relative to other islands. However when Litsa and Giorgio realized we needed a vehicle Giorgio generously offered us one of his - a cube van. So we cancelled our booking (foregoing the 60 euro deposit) and ultimately added 60 euros of fuel to Giorgio's vehicle, saving the final 60 euros for ourselves). One does feel somewhat special when the owner of our lodging tosses us the keys and says "Here take it my friend."
Late in the afternoon we did make it to a nearby beach - Finikas. A little too rocky for Norm to get in the water although the nap on the beach was much appreciated. Gayle on the other hand did go in for a nice swim in the beautiful turqoise warm sea.
For dinner we went to the west side of the island to Aneplora, nicely situated adjacent to a small harbour in the bay of Parianos. Aneplora is a maritime term that means 'against the wind' or 'heading upwind. Our timing was perfect as we enjoyed a beautiful sunset on the drive to the restaurant. We started with saganaki (fried cheese) after which Gayle had zucchini balls / fritters and Norm an excellent grilled octopus - after all this is primarily a fish restaurant. During our meal we saw a number of other Pambelos guests who chose Aneplora for dinner tonight as well.
The drive back was fairly easy as there is virtually no traffic on the island at any time, but even less so at night. Still one has to be very attentive for the pedestrians walking back and forth, as most still do.
Olga delivering a portion of our breakfast. As well there were either omelets or eggs and bacon.
Across the straight to Amorgos in the far distance and the uninhabited (except for a few goats) Keros.
On the left the gorgeous turquoise water of Koufonisia's port.
And below a couple of beautifully painted flower pots.
We each have our priorites at the beach. For Norm it is napping; for Gayle it is spending time in the water.
The harbour and sea beyond Aneplora restaurant.
September 10, 2026 - Paros to Koufonisia (Pambelos Lodge)
Day 4 - Moving day
Today we leave Hotel Petres - and Sotiris, Clea and Eva, for the last time. Approaching their 80s Sotiris and Clea have sold Hotel Petres to an Austrian firm who also operate a hotel in nearby Naoussa. While Sotiris still seems very fit and active Clea has experienced some health struggles. Certainly a well deserved retirement. Unfortunately it means Eva (and no doubt some of the other staff) are also without a job although Eva is good with that. As she said time for her to retire as well.
After a final delicious breakfast that included eggplant pie, cheese turnovers, almond cookies and chocolate cake, along with all the other standard offerings we drove to the car rental office who then took us to the port. Unfortunately our ferry was 40 minutes late, eventually arriving at noon. The Assisted Service was again efficient delivering us to a seating area near the reception where we hung out for the three hours it took the Blue Star Naxos to sail to and stop in Naxos, Ikaria and Schinoussa before arriving in Koufonisia.
Litsa was waiting for us at the port in the new fancy Pambelos Lodge van. Unlike previous years where we were welcomed with raki this year was upgraded to a bottle of white wine. We sat on the terrace, admired the view across to Keros and both agreed it was so nice to be back.
When we asked Litsa about arranging a taxi to take us to / from a restaurant for dinner she said no worries - I will drive you. And she did, along with her friend Gerasimos. We went to Maxialos Grill where Gayle had a nice Greek salad and Norm a half kilo of lamb ribs - absolutely delicious with lots of meat on the bone. After dinner we called Litsa and shortly thereafter there she was to drive us back home. Talk about service.
So so nice to be back to Koufonisia and Pambelos Lodge.
The Pambelos bathroom with an open shower, The New Best Niagara water tank and a nice stone sink.
Dinner tonight was at Mixalios Grill House where it was quite busy with a line waiting for a table. Perhaps not surprisingly Gayle had a Greek Salad.
September 09, 2026 - Paros (Hotel Petres)
Day 3 - More rest with an out trip for dinner at what turned out to be a very nice restaurant
It was our plan not to tour Paros and we stuck to the plan. Again most of the day was spent at Hotel Petres, starting with another excellent breakfast. Today was 'orange' day with of course fresh squeezed orange juice but also orange pie and orange marmalade.
We did get into the pool in the afternoon for a short swim followed by some relaxing time for Norm on a lounge chair.
Then late afternoon we drove into town to purchase our ferry tickets. We had to do so in person to be assured of receiving Assistance Service for boarding and disembarking. No problem.
We decided to eat out tonight having found what looked like a nice restaurant on the way to Lefkas, perhaps a 20 minute drive near the village of Kostos. Turned out to be an excellent choice. Santa Pacou is located on a mountainside with dramatic views across villages and churches to the sea and beyond to Naxos. We arrived early with no-one else present. We started with the sourdough bread baked in a wood oven, with olives and olive oil. Very nice. Then Gayle ordered the Chickpeas Parian style slow-cooked again in the wood-fired oven. Delicious. Norm had the Mousakka in clay. Unlike some mousakka this was very moist and creamy - excellent. It is rare we have dessert but there was an offering of Bougasta. We had had some delicious bougasta from a bakery in Leros, another Greek island, last year so decided, in spite of the 14 euro ($22.50 Cdn) cost to try it. This version was quite something. The chef brought out the bougasta as two puff balls one on top of the other - reminding us of Indian puri bread. Before we could take a photo the chef began 'deconstructing' the dessert by smashing it with two spoons. Eventually it was this mess on the plate, with the bougasta cream having been released. Both tasty and an interesting presentation. We were very impressed with Santa Pacou - a wonderful dinner.
We drove back past Naoussa, returning to Hotel Petres to call it a night.
Orange pie, fresh squeezed orange juice and orange marmalade.
September 08, 2026 - Paros (Hotel Petres)
Day 2 - Rest day
After yesterday's journey today was a do nothing / rest day.
We so much look forward to the breakfasts here at Hotel Petres, and today's did not disappoint. Freshly squeezed orange juice and good coffee to start. There are extensive options to choose from - fresh bread with jams and honey, cookies and cake - today almond, yoghurt with a variety of fruit etc. to add, cereal, fresh fruit, and a couple of rotating items - this morning pesto and cheese swirls and spinach pie. Enjoying breakfast looking out to the (choppy today with white caps) sea is certainly one of the reasons for returnig to Hotel Petres.
We did not leave the property today, catching up on sleep and simply enjoying the sunny warm (mid 20s) weather.
We again ate at Petres with our meal focusing on the delicious fresh tomatoes. We started with a Brusketta of tomatoes, capers and feta cheese dressed with olive oil and ground oregano over dried wheat bread, similar to a Cretan rusk. Then Gayle enjoyed an Eggplant Salad of BBQ eggplant, tomato, feta cheese and onion dressed with garlic and olive oil, while Norm had a simple but very delicious Tomato Salad of nothing more than fresh tomatoes and olives in olive oil and balsamic, garnished with freshly ground oregano.
After dinner we ended up chatting with Clea and a Constanti from Luxembourg along with his daughter Delphine. He stumbled upon Petres some 20 years ago and have been returning off and on every few year since, for the same reasons as us - Petres is a nice clean hotel with a great pool but even more so wonderful owners and staff. We chatted for a considerable while about the state of the world, Greece's relationship with Turkiye and a number of other topics. They then headed out to dinner while we retired for the night.
On the right Eva and Gayle at dinner while below Gayle about to enjoy her breakfast.
September 06 -> 07, 2026 - Halifax to Montreal to Athens to Paros (Hotel Petres)
Day 1 - Travel day
It is a long (and tiring) journey to get to the island of Paros. We left home at 10:45 am to catch a 12:35 pm flight from Halifax to Montreal where we had a few hours to relax in the Maple Leaf lounge. Quite empty when we arrived early afternoon but full by the time we left late afternoon. Food, Prosecco and wine had us in vacation mode. Our nine hour flight left Montreal shortly after 6:00 pm, arriving in Athens 10:00 am the next morning. The time difference from Halifax is six hours. This will be Gayle's 13th time in Greece and Norm's 11th - Gayle having been twice in her teens before we met.
Given Norm's knee replacement we decided to request Assistance at the airports. We didn't use it in Halifax but were very thankful for our decision and the wheelchair assistance received in Montreal and Athens. The walks from arrival to departure gates would have been a struggle. Plus we avoided waiting in the security lines as we were taken directly to a special area. All of our attendants were friendly and wonderful, including the seasoned gentleman in Montreal who seemed to know just about everyone, Jim / Dimitri when we first arrived in Athens, another fellow (missed his name) and finally Maria who delivered Norm to the Olympic plane for the short flight to Paros.
While in Athens we had to wait to check in to our Aegean / Olympic flight as they now only open the check in two hours before a flight, somewhat unfortunate as we had three and a half hours. Our plan was to check in and spend time in the lounge but not to be. While waiting we met a couple who Gayle had noticed on our flight. Deanna and Rose, from San Diego (if we thought we had a long travel day they had us significantly beat) were on route to Samos for a wedding. It must be wedding season as while in the Goldair lounge a fellow moved to a single seat for us. It turns out Colin is from Toronto and was on his way to Crete for a ... wedding.
The 30 minute flight to Paros takes one over the islands of Giaros and Syros to the south of Paros where there were a number of wildfires this past summer.
We picked up our rental car for a 30 minute drive north past the main port of Paros and on to Hotel Petres where we previously stayed in 2015, 2022 and 2024.
Petres is a family-run (Sotiris, Clea and Maria) hotel close to the small fishing village of Naoussa. Set on a hill overlooking the sea Petres is very relaxed with a beautiful pool and wonderful owners / staff.
After a nap we went over to the breakfast / meal area where we were welcomed with open arms by Eva. Unfortunately Clea, who we reconnected with after our light meal, broke her foot, requiring surgery as well, and as such there were no hot / meat dishes, e.g. moussaka, being served. No problem as we enjoyed a dip of tzatziki with bread and a Greek salad (tomato, cucumber, olives, capers, onions, oregano, balsamic and feta). The ingredients, particularly the tomatoes, are so fresh here this time of the year. Not a lot of food but we were not craving for much so it perfectly hit the spot.
Afterwards it was back to our room where we very quickly fell asleep.
Excellent decision to request Assistance given the lenghty distances in Montreal and Athens.
Rose and Deanna
Mamma Mia here we go once again
back to Greece for the fifth consecutive year.
This year is in part a continuation of our 2025 trip that was cut short by Norm's fall disembarking the ferry in Kastellorizo. His injury was severe enough to necessitate our return to Canada two weeks early. In addition to returning to Rodos and Turkiye we will start our trip in the Cyclades at places we have stayed a number of times before.
We leave September 6th with our itinerary taking us
- first to the island of Paros (three nights), where we will relax at Hotel Petres,
- then on to Gayle's favourite island Koufonisia (four nights) where we will return to Pambelos Lodge,
- next, Norm's favourite island Amorgos (for five nights) at Pano Gitonia,
- from there we return to Naxos (for one night), staying at Hotel Grotta
- first at Aethrion (three nights) on the south-west of the island
- followed by Casa Cook (two nights) on the east side north of Lindos
- and finally splurging at Melenos Lindos (three nights) in the town of Lindos
- before returning to Rodos town and Spirit of the Knights (two nights) where we enjoyed two nights way back in 2010, and finally
- Hotel Zacosta (two nights), also in Rodos town, after which
- we ferry to the small island of Kastellorizo near the Turkish border where things went south last year, where we will again be staying at Kastellorizo Hotel (two nights)
Finally the Turkish portion of our trip
- from Kastellorizo we take a short (20 minute) ferry to cross over to Kas in Turkiye from where
- we will immediately head north to Kalkan for a stay at Fidanka Hotel (four nights), followed by
- a stay Mango and Mandarin (four nights) in Oludeniz-Fethiye,
Finally we fly from Dalaman airport to Istanbul where we will overnight in the Turkish lounge before flying to Athens in the morning to connect with our flight home.
A total of 36 nights we return October 13th.
