Our memories of Greece 2022:
We enjoyed another great / interesting trip to Greece with a number of wonderful memories, including:
- the relaxing start to our trip by returning to Hotel Petres
- the tasty tomato and Greek salads at Hotel Petres
- the many many sunsets (and occasional sunrise)
- Agia Kyriaki
- all the laughs enjoyed with Marianne (from Norway)
- the delicious (and huge) dinners at Hotel Petrino
- Hara, Marianne and the family at Hotel Petrino
- the beaches - too many to mention but especially Zorgos, Mylopotamos, Kalamos and Fanos
- the breakfasts at Six Keys, the smoked eggplant mousse, chestnut and mushroom soup and chocolate dessert
- the proximity to the beach from our room / terrace at Six Keys
- the pine covered forests, much of which was devastated by wildfires in north Evia
- Evaggelika and the atmosphere at to Rodi
- the quaint mountain village of Pinakates
- the comfort of a thick, warm duvet in the mountains of Pinakates
- Gayle having to wear her down jacket a couple of times
- the life stories of Eduard at Ta Xelidonakia
- fresh Belgian waffles
- the town squares with their massive plane trees
- squeezing fresh orange juice on the beach
- the mules and goats slowing traffic; the numerous but polite cats
- seeing Sotiris, Clea, George, Theo and Pookky again
- the wonderful health care on Amorgos
- Christina and Petros and the pool and the dinners and the views at Aegean Castle
- Andros - the stone fences and coastline
- the Pelion - its mountains and beaches
- the enchanted forest near Amanita
- the luxury of our first plunge pool (at Schinoussa Luxury Suites)
- the village of Lefkada and the meals enjoyed in its alleyways
- the drive to Mouros beach and the moussaka at Mouros Taverna
- traditional waterfront tavernas in every fishing village
- the generally good house wines - with two notable exceptions
- being directionally challenged in the mountains of south Evia
- the bee boxes
- the colour (aquamarine, turquoise, emerald, green, blue etc.) of the waters
- sun every day and except for two or three cool days in the Pelion warm / hot days
- Greek salads and Greek fries / potatoes and moussaka and octopus
- Kato Koufonisi - the taverna and the rock formations / crystal clear water on the northwest side
- the swim and glass of wine at sunset on Pori Beach, Koufonisi
- lots and lots of time relaxing and just enjoying time pass by
- returning to Hotel Petres (Paros), Pambelos Lodge (Koufonisi) and Pano Gitonia (Amorgos)
- Christopholus and lots of laughs during breakfast at Pambelos Lodge
- the full moon at Finikis (Koufonisi)
- being the first Canadians ever staying at at least to Rodi and Six Keys
- the scenic coastlines, especially Amorgos, Andros, and the Pelion
Expenses (based on average exchange rate 1 euro = $1.403 Canadian):
Here are the costs of our trip:
$ 3,128 airfare, including seat selection
$ 6,925 lodging ($204 Canadian $ per night)
$ 2,340 food ($69 per day for dinner etc. incl. wine as most breakfasts are included in all lodging)
$ 1,980 vehicle ($1,487 or $57 per day for 26 days re vehicle rental plus fuel / tolls of $433 plus $60 for taxis)
$ 471 ferries
$ 193 souvenirs - a couple of plates plus some inexpensive small gifts for family
$ 19 miscellaneous
$15,056 for 34 days
The average cost per day excluding airfare and souvenirs (i.e. lodging, food, entrances, vehicle and miscellaneous) was $345 (248 euros).
The average cost per day of a number of expense categories (in euros)
Lodging Food Car* Ferries
2015 Cyclades and Crete 79
2017 Cyclades and Peloponnese 97 46 9
2018 Dodecanese 106 46 37 14
2019 Cyclades, Ikaria, Samos and Chios 100 38 28 12
2021 Cyclades, Evia and Pelion 145 49 43 10
* per day rented, including fuel and tolls
Lodging ranged from a low of 67 euros (Pano Gitonia) to a high of 230 euros (Six Keys). All (except Pano Gitonia) included a very significant, filling breakfast. We did spend considerably more on lodgings this trip as compared to past trips, some through choice and some (especially Pambelos Lodge) through price increases. However we were very happy with all our choices.
Here is a list of the lodgings where we stayed, the amount we paid and a link to their website.
124 euros Hotel Petres Paros www.petres.gr
107 euros Hotel Petrino Naxos www.petrinonaxos.gr
160 euros Schinoussa Luxury Suites Schinoussa www.schinoza.gr
160 euros Pambelos Lodge Koufonissi www.pambeloslodge.gr
67 euros Pano Gitonia Amorgos www.amorgos-panogitonia.gr
200 euros Aegean Castle Hotel Andros www.aegeancastle.gr
115 euros to Rodi Evia www.torodihotel.gr
110 euros Ta Xelidonakia Pelion www.pinakates.com
140 euros Amanita Pelion www.amanita.gr
230 euros Six Keys Pelion www.sixkeys.gr
135 euros Negroponte Resort Evia www.negroponteresort.gr
With respect to souvenirs we did not come home with much - a number of small gifts for family and this plate and tray for ourselves.
October 03, 2022 - Negroponte, Eretrea, Evia to Athens to Toronto to Halifax
Done, over, finished. Today brings an end to a very enjoyable five weeks in Greece.
We were up at 6:30 am to finish last minute packing; had a quick breakfast at 7:35 am and were in the car and off at 8:20 am for the scheduled one hour 15 minute drive to the car rental return near Athens airport. With traffic being backed up at the exit to the highway to the airport it took a bit longer but in the end we had lots of time. We found the car rental office and were driven to the airport where our 10 1/2 hour flight left pretty much on time. We had four plus hours in Toronto to connect to our flight to Halifax, which was a half hour late arriving. By the time we arrived home it was after 1:00 am - a very long and tiring day with a seven hour time zone change from Athens to Toronto, but everything went per plan (and our luggage made it!) so no complaints.
October 02, 2022 - Negroponte, Eretrea, Evia with a trip to Kalamos beach
A bit about the Negroponte name. When the nearby town of Chalkis was under Venetian / Italian administration a bridge was built to connect the island of Evia with the mainland. The bridge was primarily built of wood but with some iron added for strength. As a result it looked black. Therefore the bridge was called
- Negro (black in Spanish) reflecting the Spanish influence of the Catalans who had conquered this region of Greece, and
- Ponte being 'bridge' in Italian.
It was initially our plan to spend a relaxing day entirely at the resort - first a leisurely breakfast, then a few swims, packing and dinner. However a check of Evia beaches highlighted one an hour away on the east side of the island and in the end we decided to take a drive.
The plan was to do a loop, first along the southwest coast road and around to Neochori and then out to Kalamos beach with the return trip through the mountains. The first part went well; then second not so much. More on that later.
It was a very scenic drive along the coast, past a number of other reasonably nice looking beaches before reaching Neochori where we took a road for 8 kms to Kalamos beach.
The beach - actually there are three beaches, let's call then #1, #2 and #3 - are spectacular. We took a narrow road on the other side of the village from which we could see beach #3 below, but not access it - perhaps with a long hike down but otherwise not. But as can be seen from the photos beach #3 is something else. Beaches #1 and #2 are separated by a rock outcropping. Both are sweeping and expansive, of small pebbles rather than sand. After finding parking we walked through the village, up a small hill and then down to beach #2. Not at all crowded, although there were a few tents with what appeared to be some more 'permanent' visitors, we were soon in the crystal clear, warm water for our last swim of the trip.
Unknown to Gayle I had a little surprise in store. We had purchased a small juicer in Amorgos that I had brought along, as well as some oranges purchased in Lafkos, Pelion and a couple from breakfast. While Gayle was still in the water I set up and began squeezing the oranges in order to provide a final 'freshly squeezed orange juice' experience - on the beach adjacent to the sea. Of course I got a number of strange looks from other beachgoers but so be it. The important things are that I got a smile and laugh from Gayle, and a couple of glasses of tasty orange juice!
As one can see from the map there is, in theory, an inland route over the mountains - an extra half an hour but a different route - again in theory. I had hopes of finding a mountain taverna and another feed of grilled lamb chops. No problem on the main road from Neochori to Avlonari from where we found the road to Agia Georgios and a sign to Kremastos. What the map does not tell one is that just after Agia Georgios the pavement ends and the road is a very rough dirt track. Sure we may be on the wrong road but Agia Georgios is pretty small - it is hard to go wrong, or so I thought. In the end we decided to cut our losses, drive back and return the way we came. An hour of our lives that was less than productive, albeit we did get to see a flock of sheep in Agia Georgios.
We had passed a number of sea-side tavernas on the drive out so decided to have our last meal at one. The Negroponte food was good but the setting 'hotelish' so we searched out something more typically Greek for our last meal. There were a number of options in Amarynthos with us ending up at Gorgona di Stephano at a table next to the water. Gayle had her standard meal - a Greek Salad and fries while I knew what I was going to have from the moment I looked at the menu - grilled octopus. It was very tasty, and a great way to finish off the culinary aspect of the trip.
It was a short 12 km back to Negroponte where we finished packing and prepared for our trip to the airport tomorrow morning.
On the left the view of the first two beaches from the small road on the other side of the village ascending the mountain.
Below, the road leading to the village and beaches.
October 01, 2022 - Six Keys, Afissos, Pelion to Negroponte, Eretrea, Evia
With check-out at 11:00 am we didn't have time for a swim before leaving Six Keys. We did enjoy a final breakfast and chats with Olga, Angelika and the owner. While Six Keys was not perfect - the bathroom was a bit cramped; the walls were somewhat thin; the choice of music; and the ridiculous charge for water - there were many things to love. The views of the sea (and sunsets); the huge terrace; the large suite with cathedral wood ceilings; the dedicated sunbeds; the sandy beach mere feet from one's terrace; the excellent food; the setting for breakfast / dinner; and the friendly / helpful staff all made for a great experience. While the most expensive (at 230 euros per night) of all the lodgings on the trip one can easily understand the rate given the location right on the water, and the 'classy' ambiance of the place. We certainly would return.
It was a lengthy drive of over 300 km and four hours to get from Six Keys to Negroponte. After a short drive north to Volos it was then west to the E75. From there it is a drive south (most at 120 kph) and then across the bridge to Evia / Chalkida. Finally it was 15 km south to Eretrea and the Negroponte Resort.
Some may be surprised at our choice of Negroponte. With its 100 rooms and suites Negroponte Resort is certainly not a 'small quaint boutique hotel'. It definitely has a 'resortish' feel. But the hotel perfectly met our needs. Easy to find, easy parking, a respectably large room with a nice balcony overlooking a huge pool and the sea and a sandy beach, a nice bathroom, a decent restaurant and helpful staff.
September 30, 2022 - Six Keys, Afissos with a short drive to Lefokastro
We learned from yesterday, ordering considerably less for breakfast yet still went away very full. The setting, as for dinner, is pretty much as good as it gets - looking out to the sea.
September 29, 2022 - Six Keys, Afissos with a drive to Agia Kiriaki (also Kyriaki)
September 28, 2022 - Amanita, Tsagkarada to Six Keys, Afissos
September 27, 2022 - Amanita, Tsagkarada with a swim at Mylopotamos beach
"Mylopotamos Beach in Pelion is a white pebble bay surrounded by high jagged cliffs that offer a dramatic backdrop for photography as well as offering shelter from the wind. Visitors can admire the view of the cove from above first before descending down the staircase to the bay.
The bay itself is split into two parts with a small path between the rockface leading between the two. In summer Mylopotamos has a lifeguard tower, sunbeds, parasols and a taverna while in off-season months it’s a little more low-key. This is a great spot for swimming, sunbathing and cliff-jumping."
After enjoying a swim and then ascending the 100 + steps we ate at the adjacent taverna - Aggelika. Gayle had her standard - a Greek Salad and fried potatoes - hey if you love something why change? While being first and foremost a fish taverna I had the grilled shrimp. Actually, they smelled just awful and were a lot of work to peel to get to the actual shrimp. Somewhat disappointing.
We finished our meal while it was still light as we still had to drive a few kms 'up' a relatively steep road. Fortunately, it was somewhat wider, and therefore easier than the road we descended on.
Another good day in the Pelion.
September 26, 2022 - Amanita, Tsagkarada with a swim at Papa Nero beach
September 25, 2022 - The Little Swallows, Pinakates to Amanita, Tsagkarada
September 24, 2022 - The Little Swallows, with a drive to / swim at Kala Nera beach
September 23, 2022 - The Little Swallows, Pinakates, Pelion
September 22, 2022 - to Rodi, Evia (Euboea) to The Little Swallows, Pinakates, Pelion
From there it was more or less an hour to Volos. Unfortunately we initially missed the Ring Road, driving towards the city centre, but quickly realized the mistake and headed outside the city until we did connect with the Ring Road. After that all was good.
In 2002 the mansion was purchased by the Belgian family Renders-Liekens who restored the exterior of the building to its original state, while converting the interior to a number of bedrooms and a breakfast room, combining the typical characteristics of the architecture of the Pelion with the requirements of contemporary comforts, with all changes fitting into the atmosphere of the old mansion.
The existing wing, or side house, was turned into a breakfast room in the morning and a lounge with fireplace in the evening. A new side house with two suites (one of which we stayed in) was added in 2004. The central building consists of seven rooms, a reception hall and a spacious hall on the top floor where traditionally it was the most prestigious room.
We were met by Eduard with welcoming drinks and cake, and a history and tour of the mansion.
After settling into our room we wandered over to the Platia / Town Square where we ate at Pinokoti - the taverna in the square. Our waiter Grezgorz, originally from Poland but in Greece for 30+ years made for a great evening. Beyond providing us lots of good food, and cake for dessert and limoncello (his own home made) we shared lots of stories and laughs. These are the kinds of encounters we so much enjoy when traveling.
It was a short walk back to The Little Swallows where we quickly fell asleep, snuggled in the most comfortable duvet imaginable.
Gayle (and me) were two of a very very few to wear masks on the ferry.
Our welcome of a glass of wine (Gayle), a beer (Norm) and cake.
- the amount of rock, extensively used for small buildings / huts and fences
- the greenness of the island - it is the most fertile of the Cyclades with plenty of olive and cypress trees
- the pretty small villages in the hills and their many mansions, once home to shipping captains
- the town of Andros / Chora stretching out to the sea with its long pedestrian only central walkway
The boat ride to Nero beach is only half an hour with a stop near the church and taverna. We continued on the beach which was less rocky but with more waves than we expected. It was busy but not overly so. In addition to the human visitors there were a number of goats who make this area their home. Not shy some of them came down and wandered on the beach.
- Skrini (east of Koufonisi in front of Charakopou beach) - an assortment of green vegetables seasonal fruit, caramalized walnuts and cashews, croutons scented with local herbs and a dressing with plums, Kitro of Naxos (a citron liqueur) and sour cherries , sprinkled with xinotryo cheese.
- Makares (north of Ano Koufonisi between Donoussa and Kopria) - eggplant bureks with local mizithra cheese, fresh herbs and Florina pepper sauce
- Pork in wine sauce with fresh spinach ravioli, and
- while we normally do not have dessert (other than small 'gifts' provided by the restaurant) we couldn't resist the Baklava with ice cream. And an ice cream with an interesting texture, we believe the result of adding mastic.