May 30, 2025 - Mandas to Gesturi (Cortis Antigas)
We were again treated to a spectacular breakfast during which we met Barbara, the owner of Antica Locanda Lunetta. Along with Nascar and Domu Antiga, Locanda Lunetta was one of the more expensive lodgings we stayed at being 221 euros per night. But certainly worth, as were the others, every euro. These places have been carefully restored in buildings originally dating from centuries ago. The buildings and rooms have great character. And not that the welcome and service at less expensive options is not great as well but certainly Agostino and Barbara have created something special here. An exceptional stay.
Our drive to our next stop, Cortis Antigas in the small town of Gesturi, was our shortest ever at only half an hour.
There was not a lot to see along the way other than large fields, many growing wheat. There were a number of colourful wildflowers along our route. Given the abundance of time we had we found ourselves stopping often to take photos.
We drove through the town of Barumini where, although we did not go in for a tour we did see the large impressive nuraghe just west of town, a UNESCO world heritage site.
Located among cobblestone streets and ancient churches lies the structure that was built for a noble family in the 19th century. Within the manor home it is possible to see the ingenious building techniques of ancient local traditions: stone walls, mud and straw bricks (ladiri), roofs made of wooden beams and reed, and original flooring of the period. The lodging is inserted into the heart of the historic center of Gesturi, among charming streets, beautiful homes, and more than a dozen churches.
Our friends Linda and Bill, who had stayed here a couple of weeks earlier, had recommended Room 4 and right they were. A very nice room on the ground floor with a large private outdoor area we were beyond happy. Furthermore the room was ready when we arrived early around 1:00 ish, a very nice benefit. Ignazio warmly welcomed us explaining what to see and do in the area.
We spent the afternoon simply relaxing on this beautiful property.
For dinner we made the 'long' (60 metres) trek to La Taverna del Conte Pizzeria, just around the corner. Crowded with a large group of school children possibly celebrating the end of the school year we had a light meal starting with Proscuitto e Melone for Norm and a Caprese salad for Gayle. We then shared a tasty Tagliatelle Ai Funghi Porcini (noodles with mushrooms boletus). It was an equally short walk back to Cortis Antigas where we worked on our travel blogs for a while before calling it a night.
While poppies are not prolific here in Sardinia (as they are in Spain) there are a number along the roadsides.
Gesturi, our home for the next three nights, known for the wild horses on the plateau above the town.
Below the massive Su Nuraxi di Barumini, a defensive fortification consisting of a network of circular towers and now a UNESCO world heritage site.
May 29, 2025 - Mandas (Antica Locanda Lunetta)
Antica Locanda Lunetta is a family operation. Originally owned and operated as an albergo, i.e. a hotel or inn, by Barbara's great-grandparents Dondina and Calogera Lunetta in the early 1900s. Now, a century later, Barbara, her husband Gian Luca and her brother Agostino have restored the property and re-opened the doors to travellers / guests like us.
A very do nothing day. We started with another fantastic breakfast including delicious croissants, a tasty fresh fruit salad, a vegetable flatbread, meat, a large round of cheese (which we like much more than simply thin slices), tomatoes, wonderful breads (more on that later), jams, honey, ceral, nuts, of course local yoghurt, juice and coffee. We have enjoyed a number of wonderful breakfasts so far on the trip with this one certainly being up there at the top.
Having been nearby (in Gergei) and next staying in the area (Gesturi) the next two nights, and being in such a beautiful property with our private patio we decided to pretty much stay put today. We did go for a short walk in town (nothing to write about) but soon returned where we simply enjoyed the afternoon.
We bought a couple of small bottles of Prosecco and ordered a bruschetta. We were somewhat surprised with the 'brushcetta' as it arrived with traditional Sardinian Carasau bread - a flat bread seasoned with rosemary and sea salt, axxompanies by tomatoes in a bowl, rather than on the bread. This version of Carasau was somewhat thicker than others and Norm very much liked it (Gayle a bit less so) but it was not your traditional bruschetta. Fortunately Norm, being the pack rat he is had slipped a couple of pieces of the 'real' breakfast bread in his camera bag earlier. How fortunate he did as the tomato mix was delicious on the bread.
For dinner we went up the street to an 'authentic Italian pizza bistro' with anything but an authentic Italian name - the restaurante was called 'My Dream'. Norm had a pasta dish - Pasta al Ragu' di Angus - somewhat pricey at 15 euros no doubt due to the Angus beef. Quite good. Gayle had the Pizze Speciali Niko - pomodoro, mozzarella, lots of funghi, radiccio and gorgonzola. The Italians put together some interesting combinations on their pizzas. One pizzeria had over 60 options. Not as good as the pizza at Cabo but quite decent, and great value at 7.50 euros.
We returned to Locanda Lunetta where we relaxed on our patio, listening to the birds, and as it darkened enjoying the twinkling lights on the nearby lemon tree.
Traditional Sardinian clay dolls displayed in the reception area.
Colourful flowers throughout the property.
May 28, 2025 - La Fattoria della Tartarughe to Mandas
(Locanda Lunetta) with a stop at a park in Cagliari that is home to flamingos
We enjoyed a final leisurly morning at La Fattoria della Tartarughe before saying arrividerce to Loris, Marco, Annika and Christiana. Again the weather was wonderful - sunny and warm / hot.
We had arranged a guided tour of the Parco Molentargius Saline adjacent to the salt flats between Cagliari and the coast. This regional park was established in 1999 to protect and enhance the location because of its relevance for stopovers, wintering and nesting of waterfowl birds.
'Molentargius' in the Sardinian language means 'donkey handlers' as salt extraction, historically the richest industry of the Cagliari area, was transported by donkeys. The park is a wetland extending over an area of about 1600 hectares, surrounded by the urbanized areas of Cagliari and the waterfront of Poetto Beach.
The uniqueness of this area is the presence of reservoirs of both freshwater and saltwater, separated by a plain called Is Arenas ('The Sands'). Areas with fresh water were created to expand rainwater tanks. Areas of saltwater ponds existed for the production of salt.
From 1850 to now, 230 bird species belonging to 53 families have been recorded in the Molentargius area, the most prominent of which is the flamingo.
In the salt pans and the pond of Molentargius, one can see large colonies of flamingos lay eggs and then raise their pulli (as they call the little flamingo), as soon as they hatch.
The most exciting time to see pink flamingos in Sardinia is during the first weeks of June when these birds decide to stop, nest and lay their eggs, forming an extended 'pink cloud'. The best moment of the day to spot flamingos is just before sunset, when everything turns pink, from the mountains to the salt pans. The silhouettes of flamingos in flight, forming a 'v' shape, stand out in the sky, creating an exciting spectacle every day.
Salt extraction ended in 1985 because of water pollution, an event that all the citizens of Cagliari will not forget, since it represented a turning point in the relationship between the City and the wetland. Although the salt production has been abandoned the water circulation in the evaporation and salt pans has been maintained in order to safeguard the delicate habitats for flora and fauna.
While interesting and informative thanks to our tour guide Marcello in all honesty the tour was a tad disappointing. Yes there were lots and lots of flamingos but they were quite a distance away, and looking at them through a telescope is just not the same. Even more frustrating was not having the telephoto lens on the camera the few times flamingos passed by relatively close. Thanks to signiciant cropping of the photos of the flamingos there are some decent ones below.
After our tour of the Parco Naturale Molentargius Saline we drove directly to our next stop - Antica Locanda Lunetta in the town of Mandas, a bit less than an hour north.
The drive out of Cagliari was amazingly very easy with one highway taking us directly from the salt flats north of the city. From there we drove through considerable agricultural land, the area being described as 'the bread basket of Sardinia' with a lot of wheat fields.
Being later in the afternoon we drove straight to the town of Mandas with a population of 2,400. The town, once a flourishing Spanish duchy or territory / area of land ruled by a duke or duchess. Today it is now somewhat non-descript. However we were very much looking forward to our stay at Antica Locanda Lunetta, that looked very inviting from their website.
The building dates from the 17th century, originally serving as a post station, then a peasant residence where Barbara's great-grandparents hosted guests a century ago.
As the gate opened and one walks over the very old and haphazardly laid cobble-stones it is immediately apparent this is going to be a wonderful place to spend a couple of days.
We were met by Agostino who welcomed us with cappuchinos, enjoyed in one of the many seating areas in this oasis in the middle of town. There are a number of rooms in the Ancient House, the oldest part of the building and two suites in buildings that once housed the stable and animals. Ours was one of the suites on the ground floor with a private patio. A tastefully decorated room that as a bonus had a nice large tub in the bathroom, which Norm knew his aching kees were going to appreciate.
Agostino offers an 'appetizer' plate. For 15 euros for the half portion (plus 4 euros for the second glass of wine) we were not expecting much. But we were beyond pleased with what we were provided - essentially a charcuterie that included Sardinian bread, meat, cheese, artichokes, beans and a dip, along with wine. In fact it was enough that we decided to skip going anywhere for dinner and rather sit on our terrace, enjoying the ambiance of Lunetta. After it got dark twinkly lights on the nearby lemon tree created an absolutely romantic environment. Perfect!
A few final images of La Fattoria della Tartarughe.
'L' is for Loris.
'M' is for Marco.
Our host Agostino and a number of activities / options to keep one busy, if one wishes, while staying at Locanda Lunetta.
We enjoyed passing the night away sitting on our terrace with the twinkling lights in the adjacent 200 year old lemon tree. Maximum romantic score.
May 27, 2025 - east of Cagliari (La Fattoria della Tartarughe)
Our last day here at La Fattoria della Tartarughe. We are very much looking forward to the barnyard tour led by Marco, a zooligist with a passion for his animals. The tour was perhaps 45 minutes during which we entered the 'barnyard' where we were provided the opportunity to feed the animals while Marco explained what each was and where they were from. What a fun time. Educational (thank you Marco) and for those who love animals as we do it could not get much better.
We felt as if we should at least take a short drive in the afternoon. Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately) there is not much around La Fattoria. There is a village, Burcei, 15 km away up in the mountains. We headed up not expecting much. And not much there was. A couple of churches, one decorated for an obvious upcoming festival, but beyond that very little. We couldn't even find a gelato!
Robert was taking Loris and Marco out to dinner tonight meaning Loris made and served an 'Appetizer' meal - essentially a charcuterie with a number of side salads and dishes. There was a large charucterie board with meats, cheeses, some of which were drizzled with local honey, two brushettas and an omelette with zucchini and lemon zest. Accompanying was Loris' mother's bean recipe with rosemary, sage, garlic and cinnamon. Then Paccheri Puttanesca, a classic cut of pasta with Neapolitan sauce. 'Puttanesca' literally translates to 'in the style of the whore'. That's because women in Italian brothels lured customers to their doors with the scent of gralic, anchovies, capers and olives topped with pasta. Loris described the dish as the 'Pasta of the Naples Brothels'. Regardless of its history it was delicious. For dessert we enjoyed a wonderful Almaret - an almond paste cookie. We only wish there was more than one each they were so so good.
Knowing we would again be serened to the songs and 'cukoos' of the birds on the property we retired for our last sleep here at the farm.
This morning is barnyard visitation day, where we get to interact with and feed the animals.
May 26, 2025 - east of Cagliari (La Fattoria Della Tartarughe)
with a drive to the coast and beaches
What a day. After a leisurely morning we headed out to the coast and beaches south-east of Cagliari, doing a counter-clockwise loop. The drive was somewhat ho-hum until we reached Solanas and headed along the coast through Carbonaxus, Sinius, and Cala Pira. The coastline was beautiful with wonderful views to the numerous beaches. We ultimately reached Cala Sinzias where we parked and walked a short way to the beautiful beach. We threw our Greek blanket on the sand and headed into the water. The sand was soft and the sea, once we got in actually quite warm. We only stayed a little over an hour but an enjoyable hour plus it was.
We continued our counter-clockwise route in order to again drive through the mountains from San Priamo to La Fattoria Della Tartarughe - a stunning 25 km drive that we rushed through, partially in rain, upon our arrival two days earlier. It was nice to drive it at a somewhat slower pace and enjoy the views through the mountains and valleys.
Dinner tonight was not simply dinner, but an event. There were six Germans, an Italian, two Czechs and us (two Canadians) with Loris in particularly fine form. One (of many) things we appreciate about Loris is his description of each dish served. We started with a Sardinian Garden Salad of sheep ricotta, red, yellow and green tomatoes, sausage and coppa (except for Gayle), carrot, radish and cucumber. Very attractive and tasty.
For the main dish Gayle was served a Sardinian macaroni type pasta in a tomato sauce. Delicious, likely a result of the pasta being parboiled first then finished cooking in the sauce. Everyone else had Malloredus, or gnoccheti sardi, characterized by its small ridged shell shape. Loris' version is a combination of Sardinian and Bolognese recipies - he calls it Sardonese. The pasta, is cooked in saffron, red wine, vegetables (carrots, onions and celery), wild fennel, olive oil, pecorino cheese and tomato sauce with pork flavoured with anise seeds. The pasta is cooked for seven hours. Loris dished the pasta from a huge crockery bowl with considerable flair (see video).
For dessert we enjoyed a summer style Tiramisu with fresh apricots and amaretti crumble. The lady fingers were Italian Saviardo, light, dry, sponge-like biscuits. Rather than mascarpone Loris uses sheep ricotta with almond syrup. Light and delicious.
Of course there were the traditional after dinner digestives - one's choice of limoncello (the most popular), mirto and grappa (we recall only Petr chose the grappa).
After dinner Robert (one of the Germans) treated us to some folk music played on a guitar he had made, and painted with tortoises, for Loris and Marco. We enjoyed some Lightfoot and Dylan among others.
Earlier we had met Petr and Martina from the Czech Republic. We chatted again at dinner (both speak English very well) and found out Petr will be in Halifax in early July from where he will be sailing a catamaran to the Azores for a client. Norm offered to pick him up at the airport and show him around while he is in Halifax for a few days. Looking forward to it.
The food was wonderful, the ambiance great, the music enjoyable and the evening lots of fun.
A few of the animals in, and a short video of the barnyard that we pass each time we have to leave in our vehicle.
May 25, 2025 - east of Cagliari (La Fattoria Della Tartarughe)
"Once upon a time there was an abandoned farm surrounded by nature that was waiting for two slightly crazy dreamers to come back to life…"
Loris and Marco had this (perhaps crazy) dream of doing just that. They bought the neglected property in the 2000s. In spite of many skeptics, with help from family, banks and the EU they cleared the property of considerable junk and built an oasis - renovating the buildings, adding flora and a small farm of varied animals and birds. As Marco and Loris write:
“At the Fattoria we are pursuing sustainable tourism, simply meaning respect for nature and others. It means respecting animals and their rhythms and welcoming the absence of TVs. It means a committment to reducing our footprint on the environment and to leave room instead for the footprint that a holiday can leave inside us if lived in good harmony with the beauty of the place and therefore with ourselves” (Marco and Loris).
The farm is full of flowers, plants, animals, and a cork oak forest. Nearby are some of the most beautiful beaches in the south of Sardinia and trekking routes of the Monte dei Sette Fratelli. As well Cagliari, rich in culture and atmosphere with a number of archaeological sites is easily accessible.
After two great, but short, two night stays we are here at Tartarughe for four nights. As is often the case when staying four or more nights our first day is very relaxed and chill, with us rarely leaving the property. That was the case today as we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast before relaxing under the trees while smelling the fragrance of the flowers and the sites and sounds of the animals, including a visit by a tortoise right outside our unit.
The afternoon was spent working on our travel blogs and having a lengthy nap before heading out to dinner as Loris was not cooking tonight. Loris recommended a pizzeria about 25 minutes away in the town of Sinnai. There was a much closer option but he did not have much good to say about it. So off we went. We struggled a bit to find the pizzeria but unfortunately were ultimately successful. We say unfortunately as the food did not impress. The salad and pizzas were really not very good. The salad was advertised as having San Marzano tomatoes; but rather only had cherry tomatoes - good, but still. In our view a bowl of tomatoes and greens is not much of a salad. Then the pizzas - yes the crusts here in Sardinia are 'thin' but should not be virtually non-existent in the middle such that it fell apart in a pile of soggy sauce. Not appealing.
Now knowing the way, the drive back was quite easy. Back at the farm it was soon to bed.
Birds of Paradise. The flower of the feijoa (pineapple guava) fruit.
We never did get a photo of this peacock with its tail 'fanned' but its colours were so rich and deep.
May 24, 2025 - Gergei to near Cagliari (Fattoria Tartarughe)
We left Domu Antiga and the village of Gergei this morning but not until after another excellent and filling breakfast. What is very impressive is the fact all of the raw materials for the food are sourced from the territory. The kitchen is overseen by mom Maria Grazia who prepares simple traditional Sardinian cuisine served under the ancient portico. Included are Gergei honey, jams, Sardinian cheeses and cured meats, typical breads and sweets baked every day in the kitchen.
We also met Samuel, the brother behind the vision of Domu Antiga and saw Ricardo lead a cheese making experience for a British couple - did you know 25 sheep provided 30 litres of milk this morning to start the cheese making process?
Domu Antiga has 'authentic' written all over it. The property and rooms are filled with authentic artifacts that transforms one to another time. The food - both breakfasts and dinner - was great and the family friendly, always with a smile.
Our drive today to La Fattoria della Tartarughe could have been more direct and shorter but we chose to wind our way through the mountains to the coast and then back inland.
A good decision as we drove through attractive countryside with an abundance of sheep and wildflowers followed by some significant mountains as we made our way to the coast, where we stopped briefly at a large expansive (albeit a bit rough with waves) beach - Spaggia di San Giovanni.
The drive back west through the mountains to our Fattoria was quite dramatic with twisting / winding roads around scenic mountains and through valleys. It was quite an enjoyable drive if not for the bit of rain that we experienced.
We were the only guests when we arrived, with Robert - a friend of theirs for a number of years from Germany who returns each year for a stay - showing up later in the evening.
Dinner started with Loris' signature 'salad' - on a traditional Sardinian flat bread called 'guttiau'. The salad was comprised of radicchio, lettuce, radishes, cherry tomatoes, cucumbers, and for Norm copa and sausage, with pecorino shavings. Then came a simple carbonara pasta, a special recipe of Loris' mother, made with sweet onions and a hint of hot red pepper in a lemon butter cream sauce. And of course the secret ingredient - 'made with love. Delicious. Finally a beautifully presented dessert of fresh soft ricotta cheese topped with fine almond crumbles, mulberries and chocolate drizzle. Water, wine and limoncello accompanied the meal. A great dinner.
We retired to the sounds of the many birds on the property.
May 23, 2025 - Domu Antigas (Gergei) and the Isili market
After a comfortable sleep interrupted only by the early morning birds we enjoyed another wonderful breakfast - again fresh orange juice; great coffee; the best selection of meats, including sausage and ham, full rounds of local cheese, a few cakes and other treats like the tomato topped focaccia breads.
Being Friday there was a market in nearby Isili. On the way, in addition to our standard sightings of wildflowers we saw a small herd (perhaps six) of what we assumed were wild horses. They acted wild and were similar to those we would see tomorrow on the nearby plateau.
We searched out both a copper shop and a weaver as Isili is known for both. Way too expensive copper and while we thought about it in the end didn't purchase anything from the weaver. The market was wonderful, as much as for the produce, it all looked very fresh and there was certainly a wide variety, but also for the interactions between the customers and the vendors - everyone seemed to know everyone.
On our return we visited the Nuragic sanctuary of Santa Vittoria, an archaeological site near Serri referring to the Romanesque-style church that stands a few meters from the Nuragic well, built over a Roman place of worship.
The site of Santa Vittoria has been frequented since the first phase of the Nuragic civilization corresponding to the Middle Bronze Age (1600-1300 BC). Subsequently, from the late Bronze Age to the early Iron Age (1100-900/800 BC), the site became one of the most important expressions of the Nuragic civilization and today constitutes the most important Nuragic complex brought to light so far. The presence of a significant layer of ash, found in the excavations, has led to the inference that in Roman times the site suffered a serious fire that completely devastated it.
During the various excavation campaigns, begun in 1909 objects such as stylized models of nuraghi, bronze and stone bull decorative elements, weapons, fragments of oil lamps and numerous offerings found mostly in bronze, consisting of figurines and models of everyday objects. As well there have been other important finds that testify to the relations that the Nuragic people had with the Etruscans, Phoenicians and Cypriots. The discovery of objects and coins of various mints highlights the continuity of use of the site in the subsequent Punic, Roman, Byzantine and medieval periods.
While in all honesty the site was mostly just a number of piles of rocks it was meaningful to sit among them and imagine life so long ago.
We returned to Domu Antiga, although not before encountering a flock of sheep and a number of beautiful murals on the walls of the buildings in Serri.
For dinner we went out and had our first pizza, at Cabo in Gergie. What a wonderful atmosphere - crowded with lots and lots of noise and excellent pizza (so much so we returned a week or so later when back in the area). As we strolled to the pizzeria Angie and Randell were sitting in the town square waiting for the ristorante to open. We decided to join and eat together, sharing more stories and laughs. Did we say the food was excellent? Norm had a Caprese salad while Gayle the Caprese pizze and Norm the Diavola pizze. Both delicious and so very inexpensive - the fresh salad only 5 euros and the huge pizzas 7.50 and 7.0 euros ($11 Cdn) tax included.
We returned very full and happy with a good day.
May 22, 2025 - Santa Maria Navarrese to Domu Antigas (Gergei)
Nascar strives to promote a type of slow and respectful tourism, favouring niche products.
Today, many of the villages around are at high risk of depopulation, so every job created, especially for women, is a goal. Since opening the family business, run only by women - mother and daughters Nascar has generated 15 jobs by employing exclusively local staff and encouraging above all female and youth employment. These efforts resulted in being recognized for "Recognition of high environmental, historical and social value by encouraging work in an environment at high risk of depopulation" during the XIIth UNESCO international competition.
Nascar is certified and part of the 'Ecolabel' network as well as being 'Blue Zone' certified due to reflecting this lifestyle. Nascar is very actively involved in the longevity project.
Finally Nascar is part of the Mediterranean Sea and Coast Foundation, committed to the protection and sustainable management of the marine and coastal resources of Sardinia and the Mediterranean Sea.
We very much enjoyed our short stay here. Staff were fantastic with the hotel oozing class with its photos of family from back in the day and many artefacts. Before leaving Santa Maria Navarrese we went to the Spanish church. The town, founded in the 1950s by Baunese settlers, has grown around a medieval church dating back to c. 1000, consecrated to Santa Maria Assunta. According to tradition the church was built on behalf of a princess of Navarra, hence the adjective Navarrese in the village's name. The town is known also for a 17th-century watchtower built on the beach and for the thousand-year-old olive trees in the main square.
Today's drive was somewhat lengthy in that it wound its way through the mountains of the east side of Sardinia before descending to flatter, more agriculturally oriented land near our destination of Gergei.
During the drive we passed through a number of small villages including Perdasdefogu that holds the Guinness world record for family longevity. Sardinia is one of the world's 5 Blue Zones. Due to a largely plant-based diet, daily physical activity and familial closeness Sardinia has the highest concentration of male centenarians in the world.
As we continued we passed through another village where, when we stopped to take a photo, this lady emerged from behind a gate and started to chat with us. While we had essentially no idea what she was saying as she poked her head in the car we were able to determine her name was Maria and she was 82.
We eventually arrived in the small community of Gergei where we checked in to Domu Antiga, tucked between narrow alleys in the shade of the bell tower. Domu Antiga is a beautifully restored house originally built in the 800s. Like our previous lodgings the stunnin Domu Antiga has lots to offer.
We arranged to have dinner here tonight - perhaps a bit pricey at 45 euros per person - but traditional and delicious and including wine, water and a digestive. We started with the traditional Sardinian Culurgiones - pasta filled with potatoes, ricotta cheese and mint in a tomato sauce. Then came empanadas filled with fava beans and a surprisingly delicious serving of marinated zucchini and sweet onions. This was followed by a green salad with fennel and seeds. For the main courses Norm had stewed rabbit while Gayle melted pecorino cheese, kind of like a fondue. Dessert was Pardulas - ricotta, pecorino, lemon zest and sugar - a nice finish to the meal.
During dinner we chatted with three Australians on one side and Angie and Randell now from Dallas, Texas on the other. We shared travel stories and family experiences. A very nice connection.
A remote mountain town with fewer than 2,000 on the Italian island of Sardinia has set a world record for longevity, with no fewer than ten residents reaching the age of 100.
Sardinia is one of five regions globally with a high concentration of people over the age of 100, with 534 (2022) centenarians currently residing on the island. However, Perdasdefogu is an outlier, with 16 times the national average of centenarians.
In 2012, Perdasdefogu became well-known throughout the world. At the time, the Melis family, which consisted of nine siblings, was the oldest living siblings globally, with a total age of 818 years. Consolata Melis, the eldest of the siblings, died in 2015 at 108 and was the town’s longest-living resident.
A town-wide celebration is planned when one of Perdasdefogu’s residents turns 100. However, Vittorio Lai only had a few guests on Saturday due to space constraints. The Italian press was in attendance. Vittorio told reporters that he first hunted wild boar when he was 13 years old, when “hunting was saving the town from starvation.” He also stated that he has worked “hundreds” of jobs, including “shepherd, laborer, porter, and cook, but without knowing how to cook.” Maria, his wife, is 97 years old.
May 21, 2025 - Nascar (Santa Maria Navarrese)
In setting our itinerary we knew much of it would be inland, with relatively little time on the coast, by the sea and the beaches, of which Sardinia is well known. Our stay in Santa Maria Navaresse was one of the stops where we did have an opportunity to access the sea, and as temperatures cooperated we actually did get in for a swim.
Breakfast here at Nascar is again top notch, especially the baked goods including delicious merengues with the little chocolate chips. The opportunity to squeeze as much fresh orange juice as one wants is also a very positive plus, at least for Norm. A great start to the day.
The reception and lounge area, as well as the outdoors are all very comfortable and relaxing. In particular the numerous photos and portraits pay hommage to the family.
The hotel is located in the historic centre of Santa Maria Navarrese, opposite the old church of the eleventh century, the famous thousand-year-old olive trees and a few steps from the beach where the Princess of Navarre landed during a shipwreck in 1052.
The structure, built in 1800, was originally intended for agricultural use, the ground floor reserved for the production of wine and the first floor used as a granary for the storage and processing of agricultural products.
Among these were the dried figs, nutritious and long-lasting, excellent for accompanying shepherds and farmers during hard days in the fields. In the current restaurant room, the remains of the tank where the grapes were pressed by foot until the 50s are still evident.
In 1991, after several changes of hands and decades of neglect, the old dilapidated but rich in history barn was purchased with the idea of transforming this monument of local history into a hotel. Eventually, and after many obstacles the restoration by local artisans, carried out exclusively with local materials, resulted in the hotel finally opening in 2008.
The building, built in local granite, is located a (long) stone's throw from the sea, surrounded by a small garden characterized by various endemic plant species including centuries-old holm oaks, strawberry trees, juniper, myrtle, mint, rosemary, sage, and laurel.
In the afternoon we headed out to the two recommended beaches - Spiaggia Cea and Spiaggia Di Lido Di Orri. Both were beautiful long sandy beaches. We spent more time at Di Orri where we went in for a swim. A tad cool initially once one got into the water it was actually quite nice. Norm, after his swim, of course had his compulsory beach nap. We tried to imagine how busy these beaches will be in the heat of the summer.
We then returned to Nascar where we again had dinner. For Gayle really enjoyed the Verdure marinate con spuma di ricotta mustra affumicata (marinated vegetables with smoked ricotta mousse) and for Norm Pane 'Zichi' al ragu di capra montecato al pecorino (typical Bonorva's flatbread with goat ragu creamed with pecorino cheese). For dessert Gayle watched the creation of her Tiramisu Espresso - two spoons of course.
It was a great day in that we got our beach time.
Our room was named 'Goloritre'.
Beautiful tiled large bathroom.
Where we did get in the water - a bit cool initially but once one got in actually quite nice.
May 20, 2025 - Canales to Nascar (Santa Maria Navarrese)
Agriturismo Canales - what can we say?
The property was first a farm, then a family-run farmhouse. The history of this structure is strictly linked to the Nieddu family, who have lived for four generations on this piece of land that overlooks Lake Cedrino, in the territory of Dorgali.
In 2000, the 70 hectares exclusively used for rearing livestock were rethought: from a large stony ground to a farmhouse overlooking Lake Cedrino.
In 2000, the 70 hectares exclusively used for rearing livestock were rethought: from a large stony ground to a farmhouse overlooking Lake Cedrino.
The rooms are immersed in the green of the Cedrino Valley, taking their names from the typical aromatic plants of Sardinia - ours was Eliche of the evergreen tree. The rooms are furnished with accessories and fabrics created by the skilled hands of our artisans
Included have been many photos of breakfast. To face the days discovering the wonderful territory of Dorgali, the breakfast offered is "... like a hug that will give you the right energy and vitality." The buffet provides all the products of Canales: freshly baked cakes, typical traditional sweets, homemade yogurt, and fruit jams made with fruit collected from the orchard. For a savory breakfast, there are fresh eggs collected every day and the the farm's cold cuts.
The cuisine of Canales is a journey through time with the dishes reflecting the past. While many recipes have been lost, or never existed in the first place, the dishes have been handed down by grandmothers to mothers to daughters and granddaughters.
We enjoyed our last breakfast, packed and sadly moved on. Canales is certainly a place we could have stayed another day or two.
Todays journey takes us south along the east side of Sardinia through some dramatic scenery with the road hugging the edge of the mountainside.
Along the way we of course were treated to the colours of the wildflowers along with a couple of herds of goats.
While there were no tunnels there were a number of structures protecting the road from rockslides.
We turned off simply to take a 'back road' the final part of the drive, ending up in the village of Urzulei, a community known for its black and white murals.
"The black and white muralism of Urzulei, the ancient photos of the town are portrayed on the walls of the houses by the hands of the greatest muralists of the island."
There are 23 'official' murals painted based on photos of yesteryear. Although we had no idea of the artistic and special place Urzulei is it was a most worthwhile detour.
The benefits of the detour reminded us of the benefits of not necessarily driving direct from one lodging to the next. Often getting off the main roads and meandering through small villages, past farms and rural areas can be very rewarding.
Our journey ended at the coast in Santa Maria Naverrese.
While checking in Norm noticed a few dolls on display in the reception area. An inquiry about whether they are sold anywhere led to a number of phone calls between Stephania and her father who contacted his sister to inquire. We found out the aunt made them herself but, and this was totally understandable, she did not want to sell one.
We ate dinner at Nascar's restaurant. Norm started with the Zuppa del giorno which was a vegetable soup - potatoes and beans. Gayle then had the Panada di verdue su crema alla zafferano / vegetable pie on saffron cream while Norm had the risotto ai fruitti di mare / risotto with seafood, along with some Potate al forno / roasted potatoes. All dishes were ok but nothing outstanding.
Some of the extremely well done murals in the village of Urzulei.
May 19, 2025 - Dorgali (Agriturismo Canales)
with a visit to S'Abba Frisca
After another wonderful breakfast during which we chatted with a German family also traveling through Sardinia - Andre, Chrissi and their son Bente. Afterwards we decided to got to a nearby Sardinian farm / openair museum S'Abba Frisca.
This small renovated village S'Abba Frisca (meaning fresh water) owes its name to the rich karst spring that feeds the fountains, the pond and the waterfalls. The farm is set in a dense forest of holm oaks, citrus groves and centuries-old trees that provide shade and coolness. Our tour guide Massimo, son of the owners of the farm, guided us through the shepherd's hut, farmer's courtyard, blacksmith's workshop, the proprietor's house that included garments, arms and jewelry as well as workrooms for processing wool and producing bread, olive oil and wine. S'Abba Frisca is the largest ethnographic museum in Sardinia, displaying over 4,500 artifacts of the Barbagia civilization from 1600 to the first decades of the 20th century.
In addition there was a collection of a number of different animals such as donkeys (including the white ones of Asinara, a rare breed made up entirely of albinos), the hinny (a rare cross between a male horse and a female donkey), goats, horses, wild boars, peacocks and sheep along with ducks, turtles and fish in the pond.
An enjoyable and informative visit.
On the way back we stopped at a grocery store to purchase drink (a bottle of wine) and snacks (Sardinian carasou bread, fresh ricotta cheese, proscuitto, and cherries) for Bill and Linda's visit. We returned to Canales just before they arrived at the time arranged. We had a nice chat before showing them around the property and its views to the river and canyon.
We of course ate at Agriturismo Canales with Gayle having the ravioli in tomato sauce that she absolutely loved, Norm the suckling pig, which could be ordered a-la-carte in addition to the full meal which was good after our afternoon snacks, and goat's milk ice cream with almond crisp and abbattu (honey decoction).
Afterward we sat out gazing over the canyon and countryside, being very grateful for the opportunity to enjoy a place like Agriturismo Canales.
Massimo explaining the tools and instruments used during yesteryear including the large cork trays on the wall.
Left - a momma and a sounder of baby boars.
Below - a white Asinara donkey.
Some nice.
Roast 'Porcetto' / Suckling Pig for dinner tonight.
May 18, 2025 - Dorgali (Agriturismo Canales)
with a drive to Cala Gonone
This morning we enjoyed one of the best breakfasts ever. There was virtually everything - fresh fruit, freshly squeezed juice, including orange, lemon and peach, cereal, nuts, a selection of breads, jams, cherry tomatoes, cucumber, yoghurt, coffee, cookies, cakes, tarts, egg 'cups' with tomatoes and bacon, ricotta cake, lemon tarts, ham, cheese, including fresh ricotta, coffee and no doubt others we can't remember. It was cruel to put out so much good food as there was no hope of sampling even half of the options.
After spending time taking photos of the beautiful property and relaxing on the seats overlooking the river winding its way through the gorge we made our way back to our unit where we did some wash and worked on our blogs while again gazing over the wonderful countryside / mountains.
Where we had arranged to meet Bill and Linda at their hotel (coincidently they were staying only 20 minutes away) we decided to head into Cala Gonone beforehand. Cala Gonone is a seaside town on the east coast beyond Dorgali. In 2007 it had 1,279 inhabitants. The area around Cala Gonone was inhabited in the Nuragic Era. The remains of a Nuragic settlement can be seen at Nuraghe Mannu on the outskirts of the village. The modern village was founded by a colony of fishermen from the island of Ponza at the beginning of the 20th century. The town however remained largely isolated from the rest of Sardinia until the tunnel through the hills from Dorgali was opened in 1860. Today Cala Gonone is a popular tourist destination.
While in Cala Gonone we enjoyed our first gelato of the trip. Ice cream is nice but Italian gelato is something else - Gayle had raspberry while Norm had a scoop of chocolate and a scoop of cherry. Delicious. We then wandered along a bit of the seaside. The beach looked quite nice with a few people sunbathing and in the water. We can't imagine how crowded it must be in the summer.
We then made our way about half way back up the mountain to Hotel Pranos where Bill and Linda were waiting for our visit. The hotel is positioned on the side of the mountain impressive views to Cala Gonone and the sea.
Afterwards we returned to Agriturismo Canales were we again had dinner. We ordered a 'seasonal green salad' that was somewhat disappointing as it included only red cabbage, cherry tomatoes and a few greens. However the Gnocchi di Ricotta with nuts and the Lamb with wild fennel were both wonderful. We finished with Seada with honey for dessert, Seada being a typical sweet puff pastry filled with fresh cheese and honey.
Another very good day.
May 17, 2025 - Tula to Dorgali (Agriturismo Canales)
We are reminded of what great experiences we have when we wake up to donkeys just outside our room and sheep nearby. We had a final chat with Massimo who told us Agriturismo Sa Pigalva has been around for over 40 years, and is the 4th oldest agriturismo in Sardinia. After breakfast we packed up and were off.
Our drive to Agriturismo Canales, our next stop, took us south and then south-east through some very scenic country side. We passed fields and fields of wildflowers, many animals (sheep, cows and goats) and a few interesting towns known for their painted murals on the sides of buildings.
Agriturismo Canales was easy to find just off the road to Dorgali. First impressions are very positive with beautiful views to the river in the canyon, the well decorated reception / breakfast area and the bright and open dining room. Not to mention our large and well designed / furnished apartment.
As we approached Agriturismo Canales we encountered a large flock of sheep on the road. I passed them and pulled into a driveway to get some photos / videos as they approached. Little did I know the driveway I was blocking was the driveway they were entering to return to their farm for the night. Single file they squeezed between the rock wall and me and the car. Fortunately I was able to capture the passing in a short video.
Immediately upon reaching Agriturismo Canales we knew we had chosen well. The reception area is beautiful with traditional baskets and photos covering the walls. The dining area is beautiful with large floor to ceiling windows providing views to the canyon and river. The seating areas are comfortable, again well positioned to take maximum use of the views. And our apartment is large and very functional with a full kitchen (not that we have any intention of cooking) and a large comfortable outdoor area, again with great vistas.
When we went down to dinner we were greeted by Giuseppe and a large (19) group of trekkers, most from near Venice. In exchange for taking a photo of the group (we of course would have anyway) we were offered a glass of wine each.
Dinner could be a complete four course meal, or al-la-carte. We chose a-la-carte starting with an unbelievable Degustazione di antipasti tipici - both hot and cold mixed typical appetizers. The variety and quality were quite something. Then we had the Culurgiones - pasta fatta in casa ripiena di formaggio fresco, patate e menta / homemade pasta stuffed with fresh cheese, potatoes and mint. More refined than those we had at Sa Pigalva they were enjoyable in their fresh tomato sauce. They were accompanied by a Cassola di verdure dell' orto / garden vegetables 'Cassola'.
May 16, 2025 - Tula (Agriturismo Sa Pigalva)
with a drive to Casteldsardo
A similar drive to yesterday albeit in a different direction. Today we went north and then west to the City of Castelsardo.
But first a bit about the Sardinian flag known as the Flag of the Four Moors. The flag consists of a red St. George's cross with four black Moor's heads positioned in each of the four partitions. The Moor's heads are interpreted as the representation of the defeated Saracen invaders of Sardinia. The flag has been used since the 14th century, and still in use today.
Our drive, again through very scenic rolling countryside covered with wildflowers and amongst cork tree stands took us past a number of small mountains.
Eventually we reached the coast and the sea.
We stopped in Castelsardo before continuing along the coast towards Sassari, a city we had to drive through rather than around, followed by a return on the highway to Tula and Agriturismo Sa Pigalva..
Although we didn't ascend to the castle (castello) Castelsardo did not disappoint. Our first glimpse of the town, located inside the Asinara Gulf was founded by the Genoese Doria family, who originally called it “Castel Genovese”. The views from both the east and west are quite something, with the pastel coloured buildings rise up, giving away to a huge rock crowned with a castle. Castelsardo is one of the '100 Most Beautiful Italian Villages' thanks to the welcoming beaches and colouful buildings. The castle that gives the name to the village is still in perfect condition after almost a thousand years and overlooks the whole city, the gulf, and the harbour.
While we chose to spend time a bench overlooking the sea rather than visiting the castle that is home to one of the most visited museums in Sardinia, the Museo dell’Intreccio Mediterraneo, where traditionally-weaved baskets and other artifacts are displayed.
We continued along the coast past pine forests and beaches before reaching Sassari. Being unable to find a bypass we drove through the respectably large city, eventually finding the highway that took us back to Tula and our agriturismo.
Upon arriving we were somewhat surprised to see perhaps 20 motorcycles and many other guests. It turned out they were amazingly quiet at dinner, into the night and in the morning. By the time we went to breakfast a number of them had left without us even knowing / hearing their motorcycles. No revving at all.
There was a little confusion when we showed up for dinner - Massimo was under the impression we were going to eat elsewhere - but with the motorcycle group there was lots of food and no problem at all. We started again with fresh ricotta cheese, grilled zucchini and ham. The a Macarrones pasta in a tomato sauce followed by very moist and tasty suckling pig and potato wedges. To finish we had Tumbada, a typical Sardinian dessert, essentially an almond pudding.
The donkeys (or mules or small ponies) here at Agriturismo Sa Pigalva.
May 15, 2025 - Tula (Agriturismo Sa Pigalva)
with a drive to Aggius
After spending the morning on the farm we decided to take Massimo's advice and visit Aggius in the afternoon. Not a short drive - over an hour each way - but a very pretty drive through hills, valleys and scenic countryside, full of flowers.
From Tula we headed north towards Perfugas and then north-east towards Tempio Pausania.
We made many stops along the way taking photos of the abundant colourful wildflowers.
One's first view of Aggius is impressive with the town set beneath a huge granite outcropping.
Aggius is a member of the Borgo Autentico d'Italia Association that brings together small and medium-sized municipalities with the objective of a sustainable, fair local development model, respectful of places and people and attentive to the local identities. The objective: to rediscover Italian villages as places to live, support and preserve.
Aggius is a typicla Gallura town immersed in granite rocks, dry stone walls and nuraghi at the foot of the serrated mountain ridge called 'Monti di Aggius'.
Aggius, certified in 2017 as a Borgo Autentico D'Italia, presents itself as a balanced alternation of granite rocks, centuries-old woods of holm oaks, cork oaks, Mediterranean scrub, pastures and vineyards. The origins of Aggius date back to prehistoric times, as demonstrated by the traces still present throughout the area surrounding the town.
Aggius was contested for control by many until the arrival of the Aragonese and then Spanish domination. It was the Spanish presence that influenced dialects, traditions, local habits and customs in an extremely marked way. This domination lasted about 400 years until in 1720 when Aggius passed under the dominion of the Savoy.
In the first half of the seventeenth century Aggius was known as a center of counterfeiters . The 'mint' was supposedly located on one of its mountains, which for this reason was called Fraili (blacksmith's forge).
Throughout the nineteenth century the population was torn apart by numerous family feuds , the most famous of which was that between the Vasa and the Mamìa families, which inspired Enrico Costa to write his novel 'Il Muto di Gallura'. Few people know about the curious event that occurred in 1848, when Aggius became a "Republic" for forty-eight hours, hit by the movement that in Europe took the name of 'spring of the peoples'.
Aggius, with its population of more or less 1,400, is a great village to simply wander through with its granite statues, cobblestoned alleys, colourful flowers, lace curtains etc. We very much enjoyed our time there - well worth the drive. The town even has a museum of Banditry, with the town once being the epicenter of banditry gallurese for about three centuries: from the mid-sixteenth century, at the height of the Spanish to the mid-nineteenth century, under the rule of the House of Savoy. The area was known for its assassinations, ambushes and theft of livestock. Along the coasts of 'Cussorge' prospered far more completely unpunished hordes of smugglers and abigeatari, so much so that in 1726 a very detailed report Aggius was identfied as leading the country in the smuggling of cereal with a decree being issued that begins: “Having been informed that the inhabitants of the villa Agius, devoted almost all of smuggling ...“.
We returned through Tempio Pausania (didn't stop) and then south past Giagone and Lago del Coghinas.
Dinner was again filling and delicious started with a plate of ham, 1 year old sheep cheese made on the farm and artichokes. This was followed by ravioli with ricotta and spinach in a tomato sauce. The primi piatti included zucchini in cheese and sausage in a white wine sauce. Cookies and pistachio filled 'boats', along with a digestive, completed the meal.
Balori Tunda
The sculpture is dedicated to the Galleto di Gallura, symbol of the Aggius Chorus that has been sung to this day.
Quite the similarity wouldn't you say, if of course I grow my beard a bit longer?
May 14, 2025 - Tula (Agriturismo Sa Pigalva)
Our first full day after traveling is usually very quiet, and today was no different. We started with breakfast - a very simple offering, perhaps the only real disappointment of our stay at Sa Pigalva. Being on a farm we expected somewhat more. There was juice, good coffee and a nice selection of jams but no meat, no cheese, no eggs (although we asked for eggs the next day and Massimo did not hesitate to scramble us a serving), and no real bread - just the local carasau thin crisp pane / flat bread.
When not napping the rest of the morning and into the afternoon was spent on the deck outside our unit admiring the scenic countryside and enjoying the animals - both the donkeys / mules that wondered by and one of the half dozen or so cats that was particularly friendly. We named her Tula and jokingly called her the 'farm manager'.
Later in the afternoon we decided to take a short drive in the nearby countryside, to see a Dolmen or portal tomb, a type of single-chamber megalithic tomb usually consisting of two or more megaliths, i.e. supporting stones on which is placed a large flat horizontal capstone or 'table'. Most date from the late Neolithic period (4000 - 3000 BC) and are sometimes covered with earth or smaller stones to for a burial mound.
We did find the Dolmen Montiju Coronas although we were unable to get closer than the road.
Further on was a Nuraghe, or Nurhag - the main type of ancient megalithic edifice found in Sardinia. These structures were developed during the Nuragic Age between 1900 and 730 BC. More than 7,000 nuraghes have been found although archeologists believe there were originally more than 10,000. They dot the Sardinian countryside.
Beyond these structures we were impressed with both the animals (cows and sheep) and the thistles and wildflowers we saw.
May 12 -> May 13, 2025
Halifax to Montreal to Munich to Olbia
to Tula (Agriturismo Sa Pigalva)
Unlike our trip home in April all our flights were on time. The only logistical glitch was a systems issue at passport control in Munich (resulting in a lengthy wait and an hour to get through rather than likely 10 to 20 minutes) but otherwise everything was on schedule.
Unfortunately the Airport Companion lounge was in another terminal so we decided to have a bite to eat at a restaurant. The potato soup with mushrooms was good; the potato salad just meh; and the pretzels good. However when we asked for tap water we were told they don't serve tap water. I was too tired for a beer but we needed something so we ordered a large (75 cl) water. While the food was reasonably priced imagine our shock when we discovered the cost of the water was 9.10 euros ($14.26 Cdn!)
We both slept on the flight from Munich to Olbia after which we picked up our vehicle - very easy with us soon being off for the 45 minute drive to Tula and Agriturismo Sa Pigalva, our first stop for four nights. 'Norm's inner GPS' was fully operational as we found the road to the Agriturismo, albeit via a back road passing the cemetery. While the Agriturismo looked quite basic - at least the room - we chose it due to it's distance from Olbia, the outdoor seating area and the fact dinners are served each night.
After checking in to our basic but functional room with a nice desk and outdoor area with a table, comfortable chairs and a fabulous view over the gently rolling landscape we headed to the restaurant for some food. We had emailed Massimo to tell him we had some lunch in Munich and therefore would prefer to eat light. As such rather than the normal four courses we had only two - pasta and dessert, skipping the antipasti and secondi piatti.
Our pasta was a serving of delicious traditional Sardinian ravioli known as Culurgjones - typical of the Ogliastra region. The ravioli are traditionally made with rolled out dough filled with fresh ewe's milk cheese. In our case there was potato, pecorino cheese and a little mint. The mixture is placed on disks of dough, closed in the form of little bags, giving the ravioli their characteristic conic shape, with the edges finely worked and decorated with a wheat pattern. While Culurgjones are often served hot with a tomato sauce or more simply with olive oil and grated pecorino cheese ours had a lemon butter sauce. For dessert we had an Italian Meringue coconut cookie and some tiny button cookies filled with chocolate hazelnut.
Our meal included water - both still and con gas, wine and a digestive - in our case limoncello - not that any was needed to sleep well.
Norm's inner GPS comes through again.
Italy - May 12, 2025 to June 16, 2025
Sardinia and the Dolomites
Most of our trip (four weeks) will be touring Sardinia with the last week near Verona and into the Dolonites. No cities on this trip, with lodgings generally being set in rural locales.