Memories of Greece's Ionian Islands:
Once again we enjoyed a wonderful trip, with the following being our fondest memories:
- our stone house with views from our terrace to the water and north side of Ithaki at Villa Anna
- dinner at Alati on Kefalonia, including pasta with fresh burrata, tuna and an excellent wine
- dinner at Anemos, Kefalonia
- Myrtos beach and the beaches to the north of Myrtos, Kefalonia
- Kavalikefta beach, west coast of Lefkada
- Antisamos beach, east coast of Kefalonia near Sami
- staying in and strolling about Old Perithea, north Corfu
- traditional Greek tavernas, especially in Old Perithea
- dramatic mountain drives in the north of Ithaki
- the clear turquoise waters of many of the Ionian beaches
- the boat tour to the west of Paxos and Antipaxos
- hospitality of our hosts - Angela / Xarhs, Helen / Nick, Petros / Vania, Yannis, Michaela, David / Marieke
- lentils in Englouvi, Lefkada
- the mountain village of Anogi, Ithaki
- harbour towns of Fiskardo (Kefalonia), Vathy (Ithaki), Lakka (Paxos) and Syvota (Lefkada)
- the green of the islands with the cypress, olive and pine trees
- the species of (very) old olive trees with their gaping holes
- music on Paxos - Dolos and Lilas
- Lilas Taverna (Paxos) - Nicholas and all the locals playing their music
- old Corfu town with it pastel coloured Venetian buildings
- the pool at Pelecas Country Club, Corfu and our private pool at Villa Anna, Eumaeus Villas, Ithaki
- the narrow roads / drive of the south-west coast of Corfu
- sadly the overflowing bins and garbage along the roads of central and southern Corfu
- goats in the hills and on the roads
- our longer stays - four to six nights - with the opportunity to relax
- baklava and orange pie
- Greek 'gifts' and generosity
- lunch at The White House
- eating along the harbour side of Vathy (Ithaki) and Syvota (Lefkada)
- the many other travelers we met - Brits on Paxos; hikers at The Old Merchant's House
- daily swims
- finding out we are going to be grandparents (while at North Point Rooms 1953)
- leisurely and delicious breakfasts
- vegetarian moussaka; fava; Greek salads; saganaki; lamb; sausage and octopus among other dishes
- French fries fresh, especially at Kohili, Ithaki
- Norm's jellyfish sting (Antipaxos)
- the earthquake (south Kefalonia)
- our excellent choices of places to stay
- fresh orange juice, including personally squeezed at Villa Anna (Ithaki)
- (swimming with) the fish in the sea
- gelato in Corfu
- mastic ice cream reminding of Chios
- tapas breakfast at Olivemare
- just connecting to the ferry in Igoumenitsa thanks to the efforts of Yannis (Rent Car Igoumenitsa)
- wine and tapas at Zakspitaki B&B
- the unbelievable abundance of high-end sail boats
- the benefit of airport lounge passes
Favourite islands:
Here are our favourite (scenery, beaches, towns / village, where we stayed) Ionian islands, in order.
Interestingly we ranked each the same.
Gayle Norm
1 Ithaki Ithaki
2 Kefalonia Kefalonia
3 Paxos Paxos
4 Lefkada Lefkada
5 Corfu* Corfu*
* albeit Old Perithea and The Merchant's House were wonderful
Finances / Expenses (based on average exchange rate 1 euro = $1.454 Cdn):
Here are the costs of our 34 day trip:
$ 439 airfare (internal to Greece)
$ 8,422 lodging ($248 Cdn $ per night) - including breakfast (tips in miscellaneous)
$ 2,367 food ($69 per day for dinner of which $15 per day was for wine - breakfasts included in lodging)
$ 2,430 vehicle ($1,973 or $60 per day) plus fuel ($393), tolls ($9) and taxis ($55)
$ 318 ferries
$ 127 Paxos island tour
$ 158 miscellaneous, including lodging tips
$14,261 for 34 days
$ 2,734 airfare (from Canada), including seat selection
$16,995
$ 96 souvenirs - plate, beach blanket, capers and (five) tea towels
$ 100 Duke
$17,191
The total cost excluding airfare from Canada, souvenirs and Duke (i.e. lodging, food, entrances, vehicle and miscellaneous) was $14,261 or $419 per day, primarily attributed to higher lodging costs.
Following are the average costs of our six previous trips to Greece.
- $242 in 2015 (24 days)
- $341 in 2017 (26 days)
- $307 in 2018 (18 days)
- $285 in 2019 (30 days)
- $354 in 2022 (34 days)
- $419 in 2023 (34 days)
The majority of the increase can be attributed to higher lodging costs (see below) in large part due to choosing to stay at nicer places.
In euros the average costs of lodging, food and transportation (internal flights, car rental, fuel, tolls and ferries) expenses per day have been as follows. Of course some of the increase can be attributed to inflation but some is certainly due to our decisions to stay in some nicer places.
Lodging Food Transportation
Greece 2015 78 44 42
Greece 2017 97 46
Greece 2018 106 45
Greece 2019 95 42 47
Greece 2022 144 48 59
Greece 2023 170 49 64
______________________________________________________________
Spain 2018 147 64
Spain 2019 146 68
Spain 2023 178 79* 27
______________________________________________________________
Italy 2022 135 61 88
* 53 euros of which was food with the balance of 26 euros being wine with dinner - Spanish wine is really good!
Lodgings
Lodging ranged from a low of 120 euros to a high of 232 euros. All except Villa Anna included breakfast.
Here is a list of where we stayed, the amount we paid (in euros) and a link to their website.
Cost Lodging Town / Island Website / Link
228 euros Pelecas Country Club Pelekas, Corfu www.country-club.gr
185 euros Zakspitaki B&B Kangatika Village, Paxos www.zakspitaki.com
130 euros Thealos Village Lygia, Lefkada www.thealosvillage.gr
195 euros North Point Rooms 1953 Markandonata Village, Kefalonia www.northpoint.gr
170 euros Olivemare Katelios, Kefalonia www.olivemare.gr
170 euros Eumaeus Ithaca Villas Vathy, Ithaca www.eumaeusvillas.gr
122 euros The Merchant's House Old Perithea, Corfu www.themerchantshousecorfu.com
183 euros Siora Vittoria Corfu Town, Corfu www.sioravittoria.gr
As is our practice we communicate and book directly with each lodging. In doing so we save the establishment the booking commission. As well often we are known to owners / staff when we arrive.
Souvenirs
We have quite a collection of pottery etc. from our trips over the years. As such we tend to purchase less these days. We were given the North Point olive tree as a gift when we left. Otherwise we bought these few things along with a number of dish towels as each island has its own branded towels, and a beach blanket (that got a lot of use).
A gift from North Point Rooms 1953.
An olive wood fridge magnet.
Gifts:
Another of the reasons we love Greece so much is the generosity of its people, often expressed through 'gifts', of which we received many
- after buying a map and tea towel, which I then proceeded to leave somewhere when we returned to repurchase the shop owner just gave us a tea towel - no charge
- the 'olive tree' from North Point Rooms 1953
- a bottle of wine from Thealos Village
- a bottle of wine from North Point Rooms 1953
- a ball cap from Pelecas Country Club
- a travel pouch from Pelecas Country Club
- a reduced parking fee (5 euros rather than 8 euros) as it was late in the day
- a 42 euro reduction on the cost of our extra day at Thealos Village
- the ornament from Sotiris and Clea (Petres Hotel) brought back by Bill and Linda
- the shot of ouzo from the waitress in Corfu when I stopped to ask for directions, plus
- the nearly daily desserts and / or drinks (ouzo, tsipouro) offered before and after our meals
October 02, 2023 - Corfu => Athens => Montreal => Halifax
Sadly we were unable to enjoy what no doubt was an excellent breakfast as we had a 9:00 am flight from Corfu to Athens. Fortunately the Corfu airport is essentially in the town, only a 10 minute drive from the hotel. We had arranged a taxi but still had to leave by 7:30 am. We were downstairs in time for a cup of coffee, a glass of the fresh squeezed orang juice and some of the breads, but not for anything more. Knowing we had to leave early the hotel made each of us a 'box breakfast' that we had at the airport and on the plane.
All our flights were on time - a one hour flight on Aegean from Corfu to Athens; followed by a 10 hour flight on Air Canada to Montreal and finally a 1 1/2 hour flight to Halifax. A lot of time in airplanes but that's the cost of being able to travel to faraway places.
October 01, 2023 - Part 1 - The Merchant's House, Old Perithia
drive to Corfu Town
This is it. Today we leave Old Perithia and The Merchant's House.
Once again during breakfast we met another couple of hikers - Vojtech and Jana from the Czech Republic. Jana is actually from Moravia near where Norm's grandmother grew up. It can be a small world.
We said our goodbye's to Marieke and David, and their two adorable rescue dogs Razee and DeeDee. As mentioned when we first arrived we did wonder whether five nights in this isolated mountain village would be too long but it turned out not to be the case. The drive to the coast was not that bad once one got accustomed to the road and the peaceful vibe of the village was wonderful. Even the tourists who stopped to explore the village were never overwhelming. We were also a bit apprehensive about The Merchant's House given the price for a 'suite'. But our room(s) were great - actually a separate bedroom; the grounds were wonderful with lots of places to sit and read / relax; access to the tavernas was only a very few metres down Gabrieli's Steps; parking was easy and the village historical and interesting. Delicious breakfast each morning; the opportunity to meet and chat with other guests; and wonderful hospitality from Marieke and David made for an absolutely great stay. Highly recommended.
The drive to Corfu Town was so much easier than the drive to The Merchant's House - one because it was during the day rather than partially in the dark, and two because we knew where we were going. We did stop along the way at an olive wood shop where we bought a few things. After paying as we were leaving we noticed an olive wood Corfu fridge magnet. While holding it and considering whether to buy it the shop owner said to just take it. Gotta love the Greeks and their gifts!
We found the car rental return office near the airport; dropped the vehicle off and then were driven to our hotel in the centre of Old Corfu Town.
Read and see below for the rest of the day in Corfu Town.
Where the work gets done - in the Reception.
The traditional blue colour works perfect with the bougainvillea.
October 01, 2023 - Part 2 - Corfu Town
With an early morning flight we decided to spend our last night in Corfu Town. Everyone we encountered spoke very highly of Corfu Town ... and they were right. While we had only one afternoon and therefore did not have the opportunity to visit the forts or any of the many museums simply strolling through the cobble stone alleyways, amongst the Venetian buildings and numerous churches was a great experience.
Corfu Town is the capital of the Greek Island of Corfu, or Kerkyra. It is known for its cobblestone streets and pastel-coloured Venetian architecture. To the west, the Venetian-built 'New Fortress' has a network of tunnels underneath. The 15th-century 'Old Fortress' overlooks the town from the east, and features a small chapel and mosaics. The harbour is separated from the town by The Esplanade, a large park.
A bit of history. The ancient city of Corfu (also known as Kerkyra) took part in the Battle of Sybota, the catalyst for the Peloponnesian War (431 to 404 B.C.), the largest naval battle between Greek city states until that time. Corfu was one of the three great naval powers of the fifth-century B.C. Greece, along with Athens and Corinth. Medieval castles in strategic locations across the city are a legacy of struggles in the Middle Ages against invasions by pirates and the Ottomans. The city has become know as Kastropolis (Castle City) because of its two castles.
From 1386 to 1797 Corfu was ruled by Venetian nobility, with much of the city reflecting this era with its multi-storied pastel coloured buildings and narrow lanes, when the island belonged to the Republic of Venice. The Old Town of Corfu has clear Venetian influences. In 1537, 1571, 1573 and 1716 the city defences proved themselves time after time because of the effectiveness of the powerful Venetian fortifications. As a result Corfu was the only part of Greece never conquered by the Ottomans.
In 2007 the old town was added to UNESCO's World Heritage List. The municipal unit was a population of more or less 40,000.
We chose to stay at Siora Vittoria Boutique Hotel, just on the edge of the historic centre of Corfu Town. Blending beautifully with the city's Venetian architecture, this 1823 aristocratic townhouse has been restored by the descendants of its original owner, Loukas Metaxas - a Corfiot entrepreneur who lived here with his family since the early 1900s. In 1988 the building was listed in recognition of its considerable architectural and historical merit. After years of experiencing the boutique hotel scenes of London and New York, Metaxas' heirs set out to convert their ancestral family home into a boutique hotel, enlisting the help of renowned Greek architect Vaggelis Stylianidis. Christened after their beloved grandmother - a piano virtuoso contessa born in 1901 the Siora Vittoria was opened in 2005 as the first boutique hotel not only in Corfu but in the Ionian islands.
With Italian furnishings, oak floors and antique details like the brass door knocker, this heritage hotel 'oozes' refined nostalgia. High ceilings and original wooden beams along with elegant marble bathrooms result in classically styled rooms. We were very pleased with our room, including its high wood ceiling and bathtub (nice after a few hours of walking through the town). As well there is a pleasant quiet outdoor area, a very relaxing spot in the middle of a bustling town.
For dinner we chose the nearby (only 150 metres down the hill) restaurant Bougainvilea where we enjoyed a our final meal. We knew the restaurant was a 'step above' when our relatively expensive (11 euros) house wine was delivered in a beautifully painted vase. But you generally get what you pay for as we both very much enjoyed the wine. Our choice of restaurant was based on the menu that included a vegetarian moussaka with aubergines, potatoes and bechamel sauce for Gayle and Roast Lamb Kleftiko (fresh lamb with potatoes, carrots, green peppers and feta cheese slowly cooked in the oven) for Norm. Being our last night we finished our meal with an order of Baklava with ice cream.
September 30, 2023 - The Merchant's House, Old Perithia
Sidari Beach (west of Roda)
We have often mentioned Old Perithia as a historic village - in fact it is the oldest in Corfu. When we booked The Merchant's House we had no idea as to the history of Old Perithia.
Although Corfu is popular for its beaches, crystalline waters and picturesque seafront towns and villages life on the coast was not always so attractive. There were marauding pirates and disease-carrying mosquitos which in order to avoid many islanders headed for the hills where they used the plentiful stone to build agricultural villages at a safe distance from the shores below. One such, and practically the only surviving example, is Old Perithia.
Old Perithia village was built in the 14th century when the island was under Byzantine rule on the northern flanks of Mount Pantokrator (the highest mountain in Corfu) about 650 m above sea level. With the surrounding land being ideal for both sheep farming and the cultivation of olives and vines Old Perithia soon became relatively prosperous. In fact there were eight churches that served the village's 1,200 former residents.
However by the 20th century times became harder with tourism beginning to bring wealth and jobs to Corfu's coastal areas. As a result the villagers were drawn back down the mountain in search of work. By the 1950s Old Perithia was all but abandoned. Today the village, a protected site, has 130 houses many of which were built in a Venetian style.
But what had become a ghost town is now again coming to life. The Merchant's House, restored in 2010, provides accommodation for travelers, many of whom are hikers as the Corfu Trail passes through the village, along with a number of tavernas have breathed life into the village. There are now a number of privately restored homes, with other ruins available to purchase and restore.
Old Perithia is also a magnet for visitors seeking insight into Corfu's history with crumbling stone walls, trees and wild flowers growing within the ruins, broken window shutters and old gardens with cracked flowerpots dating back many years. It is a fascinating stroll through the ruins for a glimpse of history. What is impressive is the restored central square accessed by Gabrieli's Steps, a lane of rough cobble-stones that at the end one finds three tavernas and one shop of local goods.
Old Perithia is certainly a tourist stop with many day visitors and even buses making their way up the mountain for a visit, a stroll through the village and a meal. It was certainly neat to have stayed in the village for a number of days rather than simply passing through. Although initially we questioned our decision to spend five nights here in the end it worked out well, a very nice and relaxing place to effectively end our trip.
Like Harald and Andrea yesterday today we had a nice chat after breakfast with another couple of German hikers - Hannah and Dani. The Merchant's House certainly serves a need in providing a comfortable bed for hikers passing through the area.
Marieke suggested we try Sidari beach, 15 minutes to the west once we reached the coastal road, past Acharavi and then Roda. With very easy parking and nothing but sand the shallow waters were very warm. On top of that the beach was not at all crowded. As was our custom we enjoyed an hour to two swimming (and for Norm napping) in the warm waters and sun.
Upon returning we had perhaps the toughest decision of the week - which of the three tavernas to return to. Each had their pluses - the ambiance with its large plane tree in Old Perithia Taverna, the great service from Vassili at Evdokia and the location of Foros at the foot of Gabrieli's steps. Swaying our choice was the fact the lamb dish (that Norm wanted) at Evdokia had onions whereas the one at Foros was in a lemon sauce. Add to that Norm could get a 1/4 litre of retsina at Foros and that's where we ended up. We started with Saganaki after which Gayle had Zucchini Balls (fried grated zucchini with crumbled feta cheese and fresh herbs) - actually more like fritters, and Norm Greek meat balls followed by the Lamb in Lemon Sauce (stewed lamb in lemon sauce with olive oil, garlic and fresh lemon). Afterwards we were presented with a piece of Karidopita (walnut) cake with a scoop of (mastic) ice cream. Mastic is a resin from the mastic tree, native to Chios, creating a marshmallow texture. We knew we had ordered too much food but enjoyed a very typical Greek taverna meal.
September 29, 2023 - The Merchant's House, Old Perithia
The White House
Syki Bay Beach
After a brief chat yesterday this morning at breakfast we spoke more with a German couple, Harald and Andrea who were hiking here in north Corfu.
This area is very popular with hikers, many of them spending a night at The Merchant's House. The Corfu Trail, established in 2001 is 220 kilometres from the south to the north of Corfu, primarily meandering through the central countryside. Landscapes change frequently providing great variety for hikers, of whom we met a number. In the north the trail encounters mountainous terrain, passing across the 'Karst Plateau' - Corfu's wildest scenery and under the summit of Pantokrator, Corfu's highest mountain. The trail then descends to Old Perithia before on to the sea and the end of the trail at St. Spyridon Beach.
While admiring those with the youth (and knees) to experience hiking such as this we were happy to have our rental vehicle.
Today we decided to drive a ways down the east coast with the final destination being The White House in Kalami. The White House is where Lawrence Durrell lived during the 1930s. The Durrell family has been made popular by the British series chronicling the family's life in Corfu. Partly filmed on Corfu, it is loosely based on Gerald Durrell's autobiographical books about the family's four years (1935 to 1939) on the island.
Although a bit 'up-scale' and certainly more sophisticated food than the taverna meals we often enjoy we decided to have lunch at The White House, situated directly on the sea. Bread, normally a euro or two was four euros but we ordered anyway, and very glad we did. Fresh warm rolls served with Extra Virgen olive oil, a delicious tomato paste and a few olives. Gayle then had the Strawberry gazpacho and Norm the risotto with fennel sauce and mushrooms - expensive at 17 euros but really how often does one get to eat at 'The White House'! Gayle enjoyed her meal with a delicious glass of Ktima Lantides (Nemea) white wine. A very nice experience we were glad we stopped for lunch.
On the way back we stopped at Syki Bay Beach for our daily swim. Syki is a small, completely secluded beach with white pebbles, turquoise waters surrounded by vegetation. The beach is accessible by a very short walk down a small hill along the seaside road that connects Kassiopi to Acharavi, just before the village of Apraos and Kalamaki beach. The beach was deserted when we were there, leaving it all to ourselves.
After our swim we returned to Old Perithia and The Merchant's House. Having had lunch there was no need for dinner but we did open a bottle of wine available in our room that we enjoyed sitting outside in the evening air.
The White House in Kalami on the north-east coast where Lawrence Durrell lived in the 1930s.
September 28, 2023 - The Merchant's House, Old Perithia
Agios Spyridon Beach
Another relaxed and quiet day spent mostly at The Merchant's House.
After breakfast, including a nice chat with David we spent the late morning and early afternoon working on the Travel Blog and Gayle's Eblog or just sitting around. Gayle went for a bit of a stroll through the village, while Norm stayed closer to home.
Late July north-east Corfu experienced a number of serious fires (photo from media coverage), including considerable impacts on the historic village of Old Perithia where we are staying.
The fires started on Sunday, July 23th, the hottest day of the year after temperatures exceeded 40 celsius the prior week. In total there were 82 reported wildfires.
Sadly, in spite of the high temperatures, it was also reported the fires were actually the result of arsonists, making it, if true, all the worse.
It was believed the fires were brought under control on Monday but a number then reignited on Tuesday. They entered the village of Old Perithia late Tuesday night with essential services such as power and water being shut down.
The fires throughout north-east Corfu were finally brought under control on Wednesday, July 26th but not before nearly 2,500 residents were evacuated. While the firefighting efforts, including four water bombers and a helicopter, saved most buildings a few were destroyed, along with most of the vegetation in the area. In fact Lucy's (The Old Merchant's housekeeper) home in Loutses, a nearby village, was damaged to the extent she and her partner had to be provided alternative housing
As can be seen from this media photo the fires were so intense that 100 + year-old olive trees burned from the inside.
David told us olive trees damaged to this extent will not survive. These olive trees will need to be replaced, impacting the livelihoods of a number of residents.
Being concerned with what we had read we wrote Marieke in early August. She replied:
"Yes, we were affected by the recent fires. We had to close and evacuate at some point. Thankfully the majority of the buildings were unaffected in the village and everyone is fine and safe. The village is still very beautiful and nature will recover itself very soon."
The nearest beach, Agios Spyridon was recommended by Marieke as being easily accessible and nothing but sand. She was right. Although < 8 km from The Merchant's House to the coastal highway it was 15 minutes each way. But it was then < 2 km to the beach which was shallow, and therefore very warm with views across to Albania to the east. A bit crowded but we found a spot and enjoyed a wonderful time in the water. Gayle then went for a lengthy walk to the far end of the beach and beyond while I - yes you guessed it - napped. A wonderful afternoon.
We returned to Old Perithia tonight choosing the 3rd of the tavernas - the Old Perithia Tavern, with its huge plane tree in the middle. Gayle went back to a Greek Salad accompanied by fresh chips. Norm had a portion of lamb chops as well as an orange pie for dessert. As traditional a Greek meal as one could imagine.
September 27, 2023 - The Merchant's House, Old Perithia
We enjoyed breakfast in the lovely outdoor area around The Merchant's House. Breakfast (each day) included coffee (or tea) of course, fresh orange juice, a large bowl of yoghurt, local honey, a variety of fresh fruit, Marieke's granola, fresh mini-loaves of bread (that changed each day) and an egg dish - either David's fried eggs with peppers and herbs or Marieke's scrambled eggs with tomatoes and feta. Generally being the last ones to eat David and Marieke were often finished with other guests and as such spent a considerable amount of time chatting with us.
There are six rooms at The Merchant's House. We were in Gabrieli's Suite. This refined suite is named after a well known local character who lived here in the 1920s. The stone steps at the top of the village square are still called the Gabrieli's Steps, leading straight to the residence.
"Every aspect of the interior has been orchestrated to create a modern haven of peace and relaxation while preserving the spirit of the suite's history - from the wrought-iron bed in the master bedroom to the liqueur cabinets and stylish cushioned sofas to the original bread over still recessed in the limestone walls of the right and spacious living room.
Cleverly curated artworks and artefacts tell centuries-old tales - each more enchanting than the other"
A bit about he Merchant's House itself:
"These three houses that comprise the House were built in the 1800s, being passed down within local families for generations until the 1950s when the village was abandoned. In 2011 they were all lovingly restored and transformed into six independent suites.
Originally the three traditional houses were built by hand side by side with a small path to the rear. A walled garden to the front and side, and stone steps led to a cobbled road winding its way down to the 'village square'. The upper floor rooms were used as accommodation, while the rooms below held local crafts and trades.
The first house was last owned by a local doctor, who had a 'village grocery' selling sugar, coffee, honey and dried fish. The middle house was once owned by a carpenter who had a weaver on the ground floor, while the last house belonged to a local farmer who had a 'kafeneion' with its own baking oven. Their collective name and restoration as 'The Merchant's House' began in 2010.
During the renovation a traditional stone seat from the Doctor's House was discovered with parts having carefully been moved to the garden. An old millstone, most probably used for grinding wheat was also found, now displayed in the Weaver's Suite. A traditional 'weaver' used to make woollen clothes and rugs from local sheep's wool was one of the finds in the Carpenter's house.
All three houses have been painstakingly and lovingly restored using local limestone and wood, recreating them exactly as they were originally constructed, in accordance with the regulations of the archaeological department."
We spent the entire day on-site 'recovering' from our travel day yesterday. During the day we met Lucy, our enthusiastic house-keeper from Poland. Lucy told us about her home being damaged during the summer fires and the temporary home she and her partner Vassili were provided.
As mentioned there are three tavernas open in the evenings (plus two more during the day). Without any reason not to spread our business we ate tonight at Evdokia where we started with a 'gift' of a glass each of 'tsipouro', a strong (40-45% alcohol by volume) un-aged distilled Greek spirit. Tsipouro is produced from either the pomace (the residue of the wine press) or from the wine after the grapes and juice have been separated. Not our favourite but it is hard to turn down a 'gift'!
Our waiter turned out to be Lil's partner Vassili.
The welcome drink was followed by garlic bread and a grilled sausage. Gayle then had the Aubergine Rolls (eggplant rolled with feta cheese, red sauce and yellow cheese) while Norm tried the Beef Burger 'Giaourtiou' served on pita bread, smothered with yoghurt, peppers and a spicy sauce. Norm enjoyed it very much, i.e. it worked! Although very full after the meal there was room for the refreshing and light watermelon provided a s yet another 'gift'.
A short stroll back up Gabrieli's Steps (< 1 minute) had us back to The Merchant's House.
Lucy and Vassili.
September 26, 2023 - Eumaeus Villas, Vathy, Ithaca to
The Merchant's House, Old Perithia
Today was expected to be a long travel day ... and it was, with a little excitement thrown in for good measure.
We awoke early in light of our 9:00 am ferry to Astakos on the mainland via Sami, Kefalonia. We were up in time to have a coffee and squeeze the last of the oranges for a couple of glasses of fresh orange juice. We were out by 8:00 am. Although the port is on the west side of the island it is a short drive from Vathy, providing time for us to detour into the town to pick up a couple of cheese swirls and a chocolate croissant at the bakery. The short drive to the port had us there by 8:30 am, in plenty of time.
Expecting the ferry to arrive in Astakos at 12:05 pm as scheduled we booked the 3:30 pm ferry from Igoumenitsa to Corfu. We thought building in an hour of 'cushion' should be enough. The ferry (the Ionian Pelagos) left perhaps 10 minutes late but then took a long time to make the turn-around in Sami as a considerable number of large trucks were loaded. Whether due to this or other reasons the ferry was over an hour late arriving in Astakos with us not disembarking until 1:10 pm.
This was important as it was the entire 'cushion' we had built into the plan.
Given the drive from Astakos to Igoumenitsa is indicated at 2 1/2 hours and we had to return the car once arriving in Igoumenitsa we figured catching our booked ferry was unlikely. The good news was that there was another ferry an hour later.
But we tried, driving pretty much straight. Fortunately, other than around Prevezza it is an easy drive on a very good wide road, the only distraction being the sea and the mountains, and the animals (goats and cows) at times on the road. Beyond a couple of really brief photo stops (for the goats and cows) and a fill up of fuel we drove straight through.
The closer we got the more convinced we were there was no hope of catching the 3:30 pm ferry unless it was late.
Although we will be back in Corfu Town the last day of our trip (more then) included here are a number of photos of the 15th-century Old Fortress, featuring a small chapel and mosaics, that overlooks the town from the east and to the west the Venetian-built New Fortress with a network of tunnels underneath. The harbour is lined with beautiful pastel-coloured homes of Venetian architecture.
Unfortunately it turned out to be a little more difficult than expected to find our car rental office. However, with the help of a waitress who kindly called Sunrise Car Rental for us (and then proceeded to pour me an ouzo - gotta love the generous people of Greece) who then picked us up it all worked out. But with the search and the paperwork it did add time resulting in us not leaving until well after 6:00 pm.
Fortunately we saw the sign to Loutses where when we asked we were directed another 3 to 4 km up the mountain. At least we knew we were on the right road headed in the right direction.
The road was narrow and by now there were no lights other than the stars and moon. But we continued on at times wondering why we had booked up here where there apparently was nothing. We were reminded of Arodamos, our first stop in Crete that involved a similar 'where are we going?' drive in the dark.
But we kept going and voila, around a corner there was a church and a parking area. Soon after we saw the sign for The Merchant's House and exhaled a sigh of relief.
The drive to the Merchant's House in the north-east of Corfu is indicated as approximately an hour and 15 minutes.
Perhaps so IF one knows the way. However it may not surprise one that signage in Corfu is generally lacking. As the sun set seeing the intermittent signs became more and more difficult.
.
Our last morning at Villa Anna.
We were off early to catch the 9:00 am ferry. But that did not get in the way of a coffee and squeezing the remaining oranges for a couple of full glasses of fresh orange juice.
On the way we detoured into Vathy and the bakery to pick up a couple of spinach swirls and a chocolate croissant.
We arrived at the port on the west side of Ithaki - only a 12 minute drive from Vathy - in plenty of time.
From Ithaki the ferry made a stop in Sami, Kefalonia before continuing to Astakos on the mainland.
September 25, 2023 - Eumaeus Villas, Vathy, Ithaca
Paleochora, Minimata beach and Anogi
Our beach destination today was Minimata, a few kms north-east of Vathy. But first we decided to drive to Paleochora, a medieval town with defensive architecture built on Mount Merovigi to the south-west of Vathy.
Paleochora, literally meaning Old Village, used to be the capital of the island during the middle ages and the beginning of the Venetian period. The village was abandoned in the 16th century, today containing little more than ancient ruins. Houses in the village were built of wood and stone with narrow windows, like little fortresses, as a defence against the pirates. There are apparently some ruins of those houses and old churches with fine Byzantine frescoes but we guess we didn't search hard enough as we did not discover any. The diversion was not a total waste as we were provided some great views looking down to Vathy from the south side.
After descending back to Vathy it was a very short drive to Minimata beach, another pebbled beach in the little cove of Skinos.
Like all others on Ithaki the beach has crystal clear waters.
It was easily accessible only metres away from convenient parking, which given Norm's knees is always a good thing.
Like the other beaches we visited we didn't stay a long time (generally an hour to two) but once again enjoyed a relaxing time, both swimming and for Norm napping on the beach.
After our time at the beach we returned to the Villa where we decided we had short-changed the north of the island. Being less overcast we concluded the views would be a bit better and we wanted to stop and explore the village of Anogi more. As well we decided to eat at a restaurant we previously passed along the way.
The drive, with views to the sea, the numerous bays, the south of the island and the town of Vathy were indeed again spectacular. Anogi is a small village along the east road to Stavros, built on the eastern slopes of Mt. Niritos. The village's history dates back centuries, having been a human settlement for more than 6,000 years. During the Middle Ages Anogi was well populated due to its location at 830 metres providing protection from pirates. There is evidence of an ancient settlement with ruins of an ancient people, dating back to the Hellenistic period. Today there are abut 45 permanent residents in the village although it receives many visitors during the summer months. At the heart of the village is the church of the Dormition of the Theotokos, quite unique for its historically important Venetian bell tower. Paintings and icons in the church date back to 1680.
After continuing on to Stavros we circled back taking the west coastal road. Unfortunately the sun had pretty much set by the time we reached the west coast but still a great drive. As planned we had dinner at Chani, a bar / restaurant in an old building of the 18th century. Set on the side of Niritos mountain this 'chani' has been operating since 1800 when passengers accepted water, loukoumi, coffee, bread and cheese from the flock of old man Dimias, his son Konstantis and bride Baggeloylas. Because of its position the location was used as an observatory during WWII. Today the grandchildren have expanded the coffee-bar with a restaurant. Indeed this is certainly more of a restaurant than a taverna with a variety of interesting dishes. We started with nice grilled bread and the Fava with aromatic oil. Gayle actually had something different tonight, i.e. not a Greek salad but Halloumi cheese souvlaki with grilled vegetables in a balsamic sauce - interesting / quite good. Norm had one of the specialties, the Ithacisian recipe <<Tserepa>> lamb with potatoes and fresh tomato sauce flavoured with local herb <<sapsichos>>. A nice meal with wonderful views to the lights of Vathy but it felt a bit weird with only one other couple in this large restaurant. Clearly we are reaching the end of the season.
September 24, 2023 - Eumaeus Villas, Vathy, Ithaca
Skinari beach
We are now in a routine here on Ithaki. Up in the morning - coffee, fresh orange juice and yoghurt followed by a swim in the pool and time on the terrace just admiring the view down the hill to the bay, the island and across to the mountains on the north side ... and pick out a beach destination.
Today that drive / beach was in the north-east, between Frikes and Kioni. The drive up the mountain provides wonderful vistas across Kopos Molou bay to Vathy and the south side of the island.
On the way we passed the Kathara Monastery. The historical Monastery of the Panagia of Kathara looks out over the whole island of Ithaki from a height of 556 meters on the south-eastern side of the Homeric mountain of Niritos.
The history of the Monastery begins around 1696 although the icon to which the Monastery is dedicated is considerably older, shrouded within the age-old tradition of the island. The icon was apparently discovered in the ash of the burning 'kathara', a word that in the local dialect is used for dry twigs and brush that are cut and burnt so as to clear an area.
While we do not understand or grasp the historical and/or religious significance of most of churches / shrines / monasteries that we encounter along the way, in some cases we do stop to take a closer look and are inevitably amazed at the fact these cherished places were built when they were, and their ornate nature and astonishing architecture.
The drive was spectacular, particularly on the south coast of the north mountain, looking back to Vathy and the other bays along the coast, along with our villa. We passed through one small mountain village - Anogi - along the way before reaching Stavros. From there we headed to Frikes, a (very) small harbour village and then on to Kiovi. Along the way we saw a small beach at the end of the bay - Skinari beach, at which we stopped on the way back. The one other couple on the beach when we arrived left soon after leaving the beach to us. Another stony beach but once one gets in the water all is great.
On the way back we stopped in Frikes, a village first inhabited in the 16th century when the locals of the surrounding hills began to use the natural harbour as their fishing base to trade with Lefkada and mainland Greece. The picturesque fishing village is now a significant tourist destination. During the summer there is daily boat service to and from Lefkada. Frikes serves as a great base to visit nearby beaches, and during the summer the local, northwest winds create ideal conditions for sailing and windsurfing.
We ate light - tzatziki and saganaki before returning along the equally dramatic west coast with views across the water to Kefalonia.
The road, on the left of the west side of the north. And on the right of the east side.
Skinari beach between Frikes and Kiovi.
September 23, 2023 - Eumaeus Villas, Vathy, Ithaca
Myprosta Aetos beach
Life is great - we woke to another hot sunny September day enjoying a scaled back breakfast on our terrace of coffee, freshly squeezed (by Norm) orange juice, wonderful Greek yoghurt with fruit if wished (Norm yes; Gayle no) and a chocolate croissant. Perhaps not the 'full' breakfasts we have become used to at the other places we have stayed but certainly sufficient.
Late morning we enjoyed a swim in our pool. How nice to step out your door and voila, there is your own private pool. Yes we gave up breakfast to be here, but in exchange have this pool. Pretty fair trade-off we would say.
In the afternoon we took a drive up the west coast of the north of Ithaki. There was a small road, even closer to the coast, although not right on it, that admittedly did have a sign that said 'dirt road' but really how bad could it be? Well let's just say we were very grateful we did not encounter another vehicle coming in the other direction. Passing would have been a serious challenge. But we did not meet any and all turned out good.
On the way back we stopped at Myprosta Aetos beach at the end of the bay. Another nice beach very pleasurable to swim in ... except for the flying fish. Every so often there would be this splash. A quick turn of the head sometimes noticed a significant number of 'flying' fish. After a few times we noticed the presence of a predator, i.e. a larger fish headed towards the school. Then - there they were out of the water. Very very cool.
Sadly the Wifi / Internet is still down (and given it is Friday will no doubt be down through the weekend) meaning to get access we needed to head down to the harbour to one of the restaurants that provide 'free' Wifi. We returned to Kohili where we enjoyed a nice meal a couple of nights ago. Arriving around 4:00 pm, well before dinner we ordered a half litre of white wine and a retsina. As dinner hour neared we started with a large plate of fava, traditional tomato balls and French fries fresh - did we mention Kohili makes the best French fries fresh? Norm then had the Soutzoukakia, or Greek meatballs with red sauce. The food was again very good and the opportunity to catch up on emails etc. much appreciated.
We returned to Villa Anna where, in-spite of somewhat cooling temperatures, we made use of the pool for a late night dip.
September 22, 2023 - Eumaeus Villas, Vathy, Ithaca
Filiatro beach
Last night we were able to buy a few things in a bakery shop (a spinach pie and a chocolate croissant) for breakfast but were unable to find a market with coffee or other goods we considered (yoghurt, oranges etc.). But we did have Nescafe instant coffee with creamers so we did have some coffee, and the spinach pies and chocolate croissant were very welcome - perhaps not the breakfast we were used to but we knew this would be our experience at a villa.
We are in Villa Anna, one of three villas on the property, named after Michaela's husband's mother. Sitting on the terrace looking out over the bay, with the small island, and on to the mountains of the north side of Ithaka is something we could do day after day, morning, noon and night.
But Ithaka is known for its beaches so out we went to Filiatro, recommended by Michaela. The beach is perhaps three kms to the east of Vathy, reached by a narrow (but paved) more or less one lane road. But the reward is certainly worth the effort. The bay is beautiful with the turquoise water very enticing. Sure the beach is comprised of small stones but Gayle has come to actually prefer that. Norm will still take the sand.
It is hard to say this but we were actually a bit tired of large Greek meals so decided to scale it back a bit and order a pizza to share. But we did break down and added a tzatziki to start. We ordered a 4 Seasons Pizza - mozzarella, tomato, mushroom and bacon and proscuitto on (Norm's) half. The tzatziki was excellent, very garlicky and flavourful and the toppings on the pizza were plentiful and good, but the crust left a lot to be desired. It was really nice to enjoy the pizza at a table right on the waterfront.
We returned to Villa Anna where Norm had a quick dip - the temperatures do cool off in the evening - before calling it a day.
A 4 Seasons Pizza
September 21, 2023 - Olivemare, Kateleios, Kefalonia
to Eumaeus Villas, Vathy, Ithaca
Moving day again. We leave Olivemare and Kefalonia today, ferrying to Ithaca for our next stop.
While enjoying another breakfast, this one including a leek pie, mushrooms served with cheese, aubergine salad and healthy chocolate mouse (of dark sugar, yoghurt and cocoa) we, and the others having breakfast, felt a very noticeable shaking and loud roar while sitting at our table.
Lasting three to five seconds Norm thought it was a jet fighter passing close by while Gayle thought it was like a subway. In fact Yannis confirmed it was an earthquake, initially estimated at 4.3 (later downgraded to 3.7). Anything >4.0 is considered noticeable and may cause some damage. Earthquakes are not common, but also not uncommon in Kefalonia. Most are relatively insignificant. This one was centered 23 km east of Argostoli, at a shallow depth of 15.2 km beneath the epicenter at 10:00 am. Subsequent reports issued by other seismological associations reported the magnitude as 4.1 and 3.7 respectively. The quake should not have caused any significant damage but was probably felt by many people as light vibration in the area of the epicenter. We can confirm it was certainly felt in Olivemare's breakfast area.
We were in no hurry to leave and Yannis was very generous in allowing us to stay in the room as long as we wanted given the next guests were not arriving until the evening. It allowed us to enjoy one last swim in the pool.
We drove the nearly one hour straight to Sami - a very pretty drive through the cypress and olive forests - before heading a bit east to AntiSamos where there is a beach. Unfortunately our time was very limited giving us only about 15 minutes on the beach / in the water but some time is better than none. A nice large cove worth coming back to some day.
Unfortunately our ferry turned out to be 45 minutes late. If only we knew we could have stayed at the beach longer - darn.
The ferry ride is only half an hour and the drive less than 15 minutes to Eumaeus Villas where Michaela was waiting for us. Unlike our other B&B stays Anna Villa is just that - a small stone villa with a private pool. There are full cooking facilities but no breakfast provided. We bought lots of oranges for freshly squeezed orange juice, yogurt and coffee for each morning.
The place is stunning with a spectacular view down to the water and across the bay to the north mountains of Ithaki. We are very pleased except for the fact the Wifi / internet was down. Oh well.
The nearest place to eat is only a couple of kms away in the main town of Vathy. After a short dip in the pool we headed down for dinner and to access Wifi. First impressions of Vathy were very positive - lots of sailboats lining the west of the harbour with restaurants on the south side and an island with a small church in the middle. We chose Kohili for dinner starting with a nice saganaki - some can be rubbery; this one was not. Gayle then had a (surprise) Greek salad while Norm enjoyed a large tasty country sausage accompanied by excellent fresh French fries.
Other than the Wifi, which hopefully will be operational tomorrow, we believe we are going to really enjoy our stay in Ithaki.
Anti Samos is for the most part organized although there is space at the ends for those of us who are not there long enough to warrant renting a sunbed.
Pebbles, clear turquoise waters, scenic coastline - it can't get much better than this.
Our ferry the Ionian Pelagos from Sami (Kefalonia) to Piso Aetos (Ithaki).
The slowly setting sun glistening over the channel between Kefalonia and Ithaki.
To the left the view from our terrace (a portion of which is below).
September 20, 2023 - Kefalonia - Olivemare, Kateleios
Another nice day; another wonderful breakfast - today with pancakes with honey and cinnamon (sweets); avocado (kanapes); pepper with feta cheese (grilled/small meze) and spinach pie (pies) along with all the other breakfast items. Many of the ingredients are sourced not only locally but from Olivemare's garden.
Not surprising Olivemare has a house cat - generally very friendly but not surprisingly interested in breakfast 'leftovers'.
Breakfast is served by Yannis, the owner along with Galini, originally from Kazakstan but having moved to Greece 24 years ago.
After our standard 'down' time, and a swim in the pool, we headed out towards Skala and then north along the east coast of southern Kefalonia.
Last year we decided to visit at least one archaeological / historical site. After passing Skala we saw a sign for the Archaic Sanctuary of Skala.
The Doric temple dates from the Archaic Period at the end of the 6th century BC - early 5th, evidence that makes it unique to Kefalonia. Once belonging to the ancient city-state of Pronnoi the temple dedicated to the Greek god Apollo is located near the Roman villa of Skala.
Every year on Saint George's Day the icon of St. George is taken from the Skala church in a procession that goes down the beach following the coastal road to Saint George's little church. Locals and visitors follow the procession led by proud men riding majestic horses.
Our first destination was Liminea beach, which we easily found after passing some wonderful coastline, and what looked like a couple of beautiful but difficult to access beaches. Liminea was a nice long beach with parking right on the adjacent road. Like virtually all of the beaches in the Ionian it was pebbled / small stoned but actually Gayle has come to really like the pebbled beaches.
Generally we have found the beaches in Greece to be reasonably clean. However here at Liminea, although not a lot sadly there was still more garbage on the beach - styrofoam and cups - then there should have been. To Gayle's never-ending credit she grabbed a bag from the trunk and spent a couple of minutes picking up some of this garbage, similar to what she does at Shubie Park back home. If only everyone had this attitude and did just a little bit the beach, and roadside, and parks would all be cleaner and more attractive places.
After our swim (and Gayle's clean-up) we continued north through Poros, west to Tzanata and then north again to Agios Nikolaos to try the pie (and other food) at Eleni's Olive Garden, with a reputation of the best pie on the island. Eleni's is a small rustic roadside cafe with a very relaxed vibe that along with the dessert pies serves a small menu. We had the Greek salad and the spinach pie - both good, along with a Frappe cappuccino and a Mythos. We tried the lemon pie, which while fine did not, in our view, live up to its reputation. Good, but nothing special. We will say the service, banter and smiles were nice. A good stop if passing by but not so sure it is worth a separate out of the way trip. That said it was enjoyable to experience a traditional ma and pa small operation.
September 19, 2023 - Kefalonia - Olivemare, Katelios
Pretty much a carbon copy of yesterday except we added a few hours at a beach in the afternoon. Nearby to Kateleios are two long sandy beaches - Kamina and Mounda. There was easy access at Kamina so we stopped there. Not only was the water remarkably warm, no doubt due to it being shallow for some distance from the shore, but it was a nice change for the beach to be sandy. There were a few rocks as one entered the water necessitating water shoes but on shore and further out it was nice sand. Very relaxing.
While Norm napped - a common practice after some time in the water - Gayle went for a long walk along the beach.
For dinner we went to Anemos, a restaurant recommended by a German couple also staying at Olivemare. Their previous recommendation of Maria's was good so we went with their suggestion again.
Anemos is set a bit up a hill, providing wonderful vistas over the sea. In spite of it being very fish themed they did have a grill with meat specialties. We enjoyed the views of the sea over glasses of excellent red wine before starting with a Traditional Kefalonian Brushetta comprised of cherry tomatoes, feta cheese, olives, capers and herbs. After that our meal was not 'Greek' but superb. Gayle went Italian with the Solo Italiano salad - advertised as rainbow cherry tomatoes, although they were all red, fresh burrata, pine nuts (although Gayle asked them to hold the pine nuts - she is not a fan) vinegar and basil oil. Delicious. Norm went with the meat special - what turned out to be an 11 oz Black Angus Rib-eye with peppercorn sauce, a (small) piece of corn and fries. An excellent steak.
During gaps in dinner we enjoyed a nice chat with Jane and Kev, a couple from Dorset on the south coast of England.
September 18, 2023 - Kefalonia - Olivemare, Katelios
After our travel day yesterday we decided to stay put today, as in we didn't leave Olivemare except to go out to dinner.
We started with breakfast served in a unique manner. The previous evening one fills out a form choosing from an extensive list what one would like. There are all the standard options - juice, yoghurt, fruit, baked goods etc. but then choices of what we will call tapas items that vary by day. Today the options were:
Sweets - healthy mousse lemon (ingredients - dark sugar, yogurt, lemon)
Kanapes - fava (hummus salad)
Grilled small meze dishes - mushrooms served with cheese
Pies - feta cheese pie
Each day will be different.
Otherwise we worked on the Travel Blog, napped, and spent considerable time on this hot day by the pool. Kind of a perfect vacation day for us.
From the website
"Olivemare, with its white walls, light grey shutters and unique design oozes authentic style from another era. At first sight it's a quintessential mansion within the lush greenery of an olive grove. Yet as one draws nearer, the unique detail that pepper the manicured gardens hint at a contemporary haven within that invites one for a memorable stay in Katelios village.
Impeccable gardens, an emphasis on local products and a sensational breakfast will make the hustle and bustle of everyday simply fade away. Add to that the swimming pool and Jacuzzi and you'd be foregiven for spending most of your stay within the hotel's off-white walls."
For dinner we went to one of the waterfront restaurants in Katelios - Maria's. Beautiful setting on the water; good service; good food; nice wine; a bit pricey. We started with courgette (zucchini) balls with a yogurt dip - not that attractive but tasty; Gayle then ordered the potatoes roasted in the oven with rosemary but sensed a chicken flavour and as a result left most of them. Norm had one of his better dishes of the trip - Lamb 'Kleftiko' - lamb in brown sauce cooked in the oven in a clay pot with potatoes, vegetables, feta cheese and aromatic herbs - excellent.
September 17, 2023 - Kefalonia - North Point Rooms 1953 to Olivemare, Katelios
Sadly we had to leave North Point Rooms 1953 but first a bit on the 1953 Ioanian earthquake, also known as the Great Kefalonia earthquake that struck on August 12. In mid-August there were over 113 recorded earthquakes in the region between Kefalonia and Zakynthos, with the most destructive being the 6.8 on August 12th. The quake raised the whole island of Kefalonia 60 cm (2 feet), causing widespread damage. Between 445 and 800 people died.
As well as causing major destruction on the two islands the economic impact was far greater. Many people fled the islands, some temporarily moving to Athens but the majority emigrating to Canada, USA, Australia and the UK among others, leaving both islands and their economy in ruins.
Earthquakes still regularly affect the islands of Zakynthos and Kefalonia. There were large earthquakes causing damage on Kefalonia on Jan 26 and Feb 03, 2014 measuring 6.1 and 6.0 respectively with epicenters at shallow depths in Kefalonia. These were followed by another large earthquake on Oct 25, 2018 measuring 6.8 off the coast.
As we will mention in a few days we experienced one of these earthquakes while in the south of Kefalonia.
Our drive took us from the very north to the very south. Before reaching Myrtos we headed inland and up the mountains - lots of goats and rocks.
On the way down the east coast we stopped for a swim at a beach between Agia Effimia and Sami - short but refreshing.
The drive from Sami to Katelios was relatively easy on a nice road through some wonderful scenic hills covered with cypress and olive trees.
No problem finding Olivemare where we were welcome with wine along with some water, cheese and spoon sweets.
After checking in and relaxing a bit we headed out to nearby restaurant. By now it was dark so we couldn't see the sea but we did get a nice table on the grassy area. Gayle had the Gemista - stuffed pepper and tomato while Norm tried the chicken cooked in lemon. A very nice large piece of chicken but sadly the lemon just didn't permeate it - somewhat of a disappointment.
Markantonata's church bells.
We stopped counting at 100.
September 16, 2023 - Kefalonia - Myrtos Beach
After a bit of work on the travel blog under the watchful eye of one of the house cats, we enjoyed another leisurely breakfast chatting with a couple from Australia nearing the end of a five month - yes month not week - trip to Europe and the middle-east.
While we can't think of any hosts who have not been wonderful we want to make special mention of Petros and his partner Vania. Nothing is too much trouble. Vania is a bit shy but Petros could not be more helpful. He just has a way about him that makes everything so easy. We very much enjoyed both.
Today our journey took us south to Myrtos beach.
In theory just over half and hour from North Point Rooms 1953 but in reality somewhat longer with the numerous photo stops along the way.
Myrtos Beach is undoubtedly one of the main attractions of Kefalonia. Located in a beautiful area around huge verdant hills Myrtos has gained a worldwide reputation, constantly included in travel magazines among the most beautiful and impressive beaches in the world, garnering awards for its cleanliness and natural beauty. As a result Myrtos Beach is one of the most photographed places in Greece.
Every year Myrtos is awarded the Blue Flag, one of the world's most recognizable eco labels awarded to beaches that meet and maintain the highest environmental, sustainability and safety criteria.
The beach has a semi-circular shape surrounded by impressive white rocky cliffs with lush vegetation on top creating a spectacular setting. The lush green area, the abrupt terrain, the white pebbles and the crystal clear waters compose a stunning scenery. A portion of the beach is well-organized with umbrellas and sundecks while space is maintained on each end that is unorganized.
There is a nice 'photo op' site on the road high above the beach providing an opportunity to take some stunning shots.
On the way to Myrtos we passed the island and village of Assos. Founded under Venetian rule Assos served as the administrative capital of northern Kefalonia from 1593 through 1757. The Venetian Senate commissioned the construction of the Assos Castle, one of the largest in Greece, in 1595. The castle was initially built with the view that it would protect locals in case of an invasion by passing Turks or pirates, but for various reasons such as the absence of natural springs for a water supply, it was never adopted as a fortress, and gradually the grand plan was dropped. In the 1920s the castle was converted to a prison which housed political prisoners after WWII. After the 1953 earthquake most people left the island and the prison was closed. In retrospect we regretted not driving down to get a closer view of the town, island and fortress. Next time.
Dinner was at a traditional nearby tavern - Makis. We ate light - just a Greek salad for Gayle and a plate of olives followed by lamb chops for Norm. We returned to North Point 1953 rooms and retired.
While working on the travel blog each morning I always had company - if not Benny one of the cats.
A number of roadside goats on our drive today.
came with our bread.
September 15, 2023 - Kefalonia - North Point 1953 - Fiskardo
After a very comfortable sleep we awoke to a nice day. I started the day with a couple of early morning coffees working on the travel blog and befriending Benny, the resident dog along with a number of house cats. We enjoyed a great breakfast, complete with fresh orange juice, coffee of course, granola, chocolate croissants, other pastries, cheese and spinach pies, small toasts today with salmon and capers, meats, cheeses, tomatoes, cucumbers, yoghurt, bacon and eggs. Certainly no need for lunch.
In the afternoon we went into Fiskardo, a pretty little fishing village. Fiskardo is the northernmost port of Kefalonia with a small and diminishing fishing fleet. The coast around Fiskardo is mainly rocky with numerous pebble-beached coves. The area, dense with forests, has been declared one of great natural beauty and as a result is protected under Greek law.
Fiskardo has been identifed with the ancient town of Panormos, mentioned as far back as the 5th century B.C.. In 2006 workers stumbled upon a perfectly preserved Roman-era grave complex. Inside were five burial sites including a large vaulted grave and a stone coffin as well as gold jewellery, pottery and clay pots, gold earrings and rings, gold leaves attached to ceremonial clothing, and bronze artefacts decorated with masks, a bronze lock and coins. Other excavations have uncovered remains of houses, a remarkably preserved theatre with stone back seats, a baths complex and a cemetery, all dating to Roman times between 146 B.C. and 330 A.D.. At the time the complex was uncovered a Greek Culture Ministry spokesman said "Nothing else like it has ever been discovered on any Ionian island." Unlike most of Kefalonia Fiskardo escaped the destruction of the 1953 earthquake, keeping its original architecture.
We stumbled upon the cemetery with a number of tombs, then wandered along the harbour with many yachts and tour boats, along with restaurants. Before leaving we each enjoyed a gelato.
Before returning to North Point we stopped for a swim at one of the nearby beaches - Emplesi. A couple of kms off the main road the beach was very accessible, with easy parking and fantastic water - warm and colourful. We certainly enjoy our daily swims.
For dinner we took Petros' recommendation and went to Alati, a restaurant on the sea with great sunset views. The sunset tonight was decent, although perhaps not as spectacular as it could have been. The meal however was superb. Quite surprisingly the garlic and salted pita breads were delicious. Gayle had a dish of linguini with fresh tomato sauce, and a huge ball of burrata cheese covered in pesto, which she absolutely loved. Norm took a bit of a risk on sesame crusted tuna - this after all is a fish restaurant - which also was wonderful, reminiscent of the excellent tuna he enjoyed at Golfo Dulce in Costa Rica. All was accompanied by the best wine so far, a white Papargyriou. An excellent meal in a very scenic setting.
The water is very green near the shore, turning turquoise a bit further out and then finally a deep blue.
September 14, 2023 - Lefkada to Kefalonia - North Point 1953
We left Lefkada today to ferry to the next island south - Kefalonia. We would say we were more impressed with Lefkada than perhaps we expected. A very green island with lots of olive and cypress trees. Our lodging - Thealos Villages - was great; a large unit with separate bedroom, kitchen and a nice outdoor area. There were a number of pools for our use and an expansive vista across the sea to the mainland. Although we didn't cook there was a stove with oven and a microwave along with a full fridge. There are a number of relatively easily accessible beaches (at least compared to Paxos and the west of Corfu), and some scenic drives. We certainly will consider returning.
Due to the ferry strike that delayed our leaving Lefkada and arriving in Kefalonia by one day we had only three nights at North Point Rooms 1953. One nice thing is that the Rooms are < 10 minute drive from the ferry, assuming of course one does not miss the sign and drive another five to ten kms further. But we figured it out, returned, saw the sign we missed and found North Point1953 quite easily.
We were met by Petros and right away knew this was going to be a great stop. Petros just has a way about him that makes one feel so very welcome. He was so accommodating throughout our stay.
Haris, the owner, and the name of our room, started to build his collection of lodgings first with the Primarolia Hotel in Patras that opened in 1997. This was followed by the Emelisse Hotel in Fiskardo. Using his experience, love for the travel industry, and the desire for continuous development he has created new projects in both Ithaca and Kefalonia. The Perantzada Hotel opened in 2000 in Ithaca. Then in 2017 Haris added the North Point Rooms 1953 in Markandonata, a small village near Vilapata in north Kefalonia. The Rooms are a place of total peace and relaxation - six rooms in a secluded area within a marvelous garden providing absolute serenity. So the website says. And we agree. Simply delightful.
Petros suggested the nearby Old Stone Taverna for dinner. Gayle had a wonderful plate of grilled vegetables, fortunately not swimming in olive oil. She loved them. Norm tried the traditional Kefalonia meat pie, a pork and beef pie that didn't quite work, being somewhat dry. We did finish with a large piece of baklava that we shared. All in all a nice start to our stay in Kefalonia.
Visiliki.
My first Mythos of the trip.
September 13, 2023 - Lefkada - Thealos Village - Mikros Gialos and Ammousa beaches
Today was out extra day in Lefkada due to the ferry strike.
Two more beaches today. Down the east coast first to Mikros Gialos beach. Beautiful sparkling water but a bit too organized with 'water taxis' and other 'toys' on the beach. Still it was a pretty drive through the olive groves and we were fortunate to find a parking spot close to the beach. Without shade we did not stay too long but did enjoy our stop.
It was then further down the coast to Ammousa beach.
Somewhat smaller and again with small stones but also beautiful - the water so blue and warm.
Being later in the day with the sun starting to set we enjoyed a bit of shade. Parking was very easy and convenient.
As we drove back to the main road we passed a fellow selling a number of products - olives, honey, capers etc. We stopped for a photo but in the end bought a jar of capers to bring home with us. After taking a number of photos the fellow handed me a number of figs as a 'gift'.
Love the Greeks!
The taverna we chose was Odyssey in part due to the availability of a whole grilled octopus, which was delicious. Gayle had Gemista again - stuffed tomato and pepper; good but not as tasty as the one she had the other night. After dinner we crossed the road where we bought a couple of desserts - an orange pie and a baklava to have back at Thealos Villages.
It was a fairly easy half hour drive back up the coast to return to our place.
And theses two cuties on the roadside.
September 12, 2023 - Lefkada - Thealos Village - Englouvi
and Kavalikefta Beach
Time to explore a bit and start to hit the beaches of Lefkada. Today we drove inland from Nidri to the mountain village of Englouvi and then on to Kavalikefta Beach across the mountains.
On August 6th each year the 'Feast of the Englouvi Lentil' takes place in the village as the lentils-farmers celebrate their local product. The Englouvi plateau is listed in the Food and Agriculture Organizations of the United Nations as one of the five protected areas for unique aesthetic natural and cultural beauty of Greece. Englouvi's lentils are cooked according to the traditional recipes and as a result stand out for their unique flavour and texture.
Photo taken from website
We then continued west to the coast and made our way down the 'S' bends to Kavaliklefta Beach. We ended up paying five euros for parking but it provided easy access to a beautiful beach strewn with large boulders creating a number of interesting swimming 'pools', and perhaps more important some shade. Another very worthwhile stop.
On the way back (north to the top of Lefkada, then east to Lefkada town and finally south back to Thealos Village) we were treated to a wonderful sunset. Having had lunch there was no need for dinner.
beautiful flowers.
Below left - Mama's meatballs with fries
Below right - orange pie
Kite surfers over Kaavalikefta beach.
September 11, 2023 - Lefkada - Thealos Village - Nikiana Beach
Another relatively do nothing day. Unlike yesterday we did get out to the local beach - Nikiana in the next town south of us. Another rocky beach but easily accessible with a nice pine tree to provide us with shade. Regardless of the absence of sand once one gets in the water it doesn't matter.
For dinner we reserved a table right on the water at Ta Kaviopia. We were warmly greeted with service being top notch. A nice small appetizer was a good start. Gayle ordered her go to Greek Salad of tomatoes, cucumber, onion, olives, pepper, capers, apples and feta. Norm had the Sofigado, a dish characterized by its sweet and sour flavours. This beef stew, or in my case large pieces of beef, hails from Lefkada, believed to have been developed under the influence of Venetian culinary tradition. Sofigado is prepared with cubed beef, sauteed onions, red wine vinegar, garlic, rosemary and petimezi - traditional Greek grapemust. The dish is typically enriched with slices of quinces (mine had plums) and served with a turmeric porridge. With a nice meal sitting on the waterside we ordered a bottle of red wine - a Tselepos Estate 'Driopi' Nemea (Agiorgitiko grape) - good but not great. After dinner we were each provided a 'gift' of geranium liqueur - those Greeks can and do turn just about anything into a liqueur. It was surprisingly good.
September 10, 2023 - Lefkada - Thealos Village
Today is Travel Blog light. We were originally to spend four nights on Lefkada, ferrying to Kefalonia on September 13th. However the Greek ferry union called for a one day strike on the 13th with no ferries running. As a result we had to cancel a night in Kefalonia (North Point 1953 was very good about this, refunding our prepaid accommodation charge for the day) and extend our stay in Lefkada which was done with no problem. As a result we had an extra day which we used to wash clothes and chill out, not leaving Thealos Villages other then to go to dinner.
Breakfast was actually quite good - not the best we have had but more than expected at this 'resort'. Thealos Village surpassed our expectations for the price paid. The unit was large with a separate bedroom and a full kitchen - large fridge, stove, microwave, dishes, cutlery, pots and pans. There was a nice sized outdoor space with a clothes drying rack for those of us who chose to not figure out how to use the washer and dryer that were available. There are a number of pools available for guests on a property that is set in a semi-circle on a hill with a fabulous view down to the water and across to the mainland.
For dinner we went to Taverna to Toykoyti where we ordered way way too much. Start with some olives - of course we are in Greece, home of the olive; then tzatziki which Gayle loves. Gayle was also in the mood for some fried potatoes - why not? We likely should have stopped there but no the Gemista - stuffed tomato and pepper was appealing so sure, order that also. Unfortunately there was confusion between us and the server about what peppers we wanted with us also receiving the peppers stuffed with feta. And finally Norm was attracted by the seppia, a type of squid which was way more than imagined. At the end embarrassingly we took back five, yes count them, five containers of leftovers. As said, way too much.
September 09, 2023 - Paxos => Lefkada - Thealos Village
After six days in Paxos it was time to move on to our next island - Lefkada.
But before leaving we enjoyed another nice breakfast and chat with Helen. We spent time taking more photos of the property, and then after packing enjoyed our remaining wine up on the terrace, overlooking the sea on this glorious sunny morning.
We detoured (only a couple of Kms) to one of the two gas stations on the island to fill up and then returned the car to the nearby office. We were driven to the port where we boarded the ferry to Igoumenitsa. It was an calm 1 1/2 hour trip.
We encountered a few issues finding our car rental (there is a Rent A Car Igoumenitsa and a Rent Car Igoumenitsa - easy to get confused) but eventually found our way and were off on the 1 1/2 hour drive south to Lefkada.
The drive was reasonably scenic with sections along the sea.
We skirted the city of Preveza before heading to Lefkada.
For dinner we decided on a restaurant that served pizza where we ordered light - just one vegetarian pizza between us that we thoroughly enjoyed. We also enjoyed meeting Arsie (named due to her huge back-end so we were told), a very well behaved dog traveling with her Romanian owners.
Zakspitaki has an old feel about it with shelves etc. like these.
the B&B.
The church in the village of Patamos.
September 08, 2023 - Paxos - B&B Zakspitaki
Boat tour to west of Paxos and Antipaxos
Another long Travel Blog post today as we took a boat tour along the west coast of Paxos after which we went to Antipaxos for a couple of swims, including one at a gorgeous sandy beach with a taverna were we enjoyed lunch.
We had an early (for us - 8:30 am) breakfast in order to get to the port of Gaios in time for our 10:15 am departure. After leaving Gaios harbour through the fjord like channel we headed south, then west around the southerly tip of Paxos and north along some stunning coastline of gorgeous coloured waters, white chalk cliffs and a number of caves, including the Ypapanti / Pappanikoli. The Greek submarine Papanikolis used to hide in the cave during WW2. Rumour has it this cave has a secret passage to the church Ypapanti where the crew used to exit the submarine.
The trip continued on to the Blue Caves and to Ortholithose, an impressive standing rock in the sea. This was the last cave entered with beautiful waters and a view of the vertical rock in the crystal-clear sea. Then it was on to Galazio (or light blue) bay and finally Tripitos arch or 'Kamara' where one can admire the enormous and elegant structure of this natural bridge, surrounded by blue and green waters.
We then continued south to Antipaxos where we stopped for another swim. We had moved on from a previously planned swim due to a bloom of jelly fish. Unfortunately this new stop, which seemed fine to the captain, had at least one jelly fish to whom I got too close. A quick jab but I was definitely stung as evidenced by both the pain and the welt that formed two days later. But beyond the pain of the sting and the subsequent welt there were no other negative effects. But I did get out of the water quickly.
We then went to Paralia Voutoumi Beach, a beautiful sandy beach on Antipaxos where we relaxed for a couple of hours, enough time to have something to eat in one of the tavernas. Gayle had an excellent Briam (often briams are overcooked and mushy but this one was not - Gayle approved) while Norm had octopus - two large legs.
On the way back we detoured into Mongonissi channel - remember the rain yesterday - and then one more swim at Balos beach, before returning to Gaios.
A tour of over six hours, including water, a little bit of food and a glass of ouzo was great value for the 43 euro price each. Plus the day was absolutely perfect for a tour, a significant change from the previous days here on Paxos. If we were going to have one great day this was it.
After returning to Zakspitaki we decided to go back to Lilas for dinner. We weren't hungry after our lunch but thought we would enjoy a small final meal. I parked in the 'secret' spot Nicholas told us about behind the taverna, and entered the taverna through the back way. We felt somewhat both guilty and 'special' when, with two other couples waiting for tables we were escorted by Lilas to the one open table. It appears we had become VIPs. Tzatziki, mamas hand cut fries, clearly the best saganaki we have had on the trip, and for me pork souvlaki. After our meal I asked Lilas for a baklava. When she said she didn't have any I replied "What kind of Greek restaurant doesn't have baklava?" She said "Wait" after which we saw her cross the road to a bakery, to return with a piece. Ya, Lilas truly made us feel like VIPs. We left full and happy.
September 07, 2023 - Paxos - B&B Zakspitaki
Yet another wonderful breakfast, today with spinach rolls and a very thick apple pie.
With the forecast being for better weather today we decided to head to a beach - Mongonissi on the south of the island. Doing so required us to drive by / through Gaois, the main port of Paxos in order to check out parking options for tomorrow's boat tour.
Gaios, a natural port is surrounded by two small islands - Panagia and Agios Nikolaos. The result is an entrance that resembles a fjord. Panoramic views are provided of both entrances - the Islet and monastery of Panagia to the North and the main settlement to the center and south. The two islands can be accessed by boat, of which there are many in Gaios. Panagia has a simple monastery dedicated in Mother Mary while the isle of Agios Nikolaos has a fort of the same name dating back to 1423. The road above the port provides a wonderful expansive scenic view.
We continued south through some small stone lined rural lanes - I would not call them roads - until reaching a pretty bay with Mongonissi beach on the far side. We parked and walked around past the taverna to the sandy beach. Although there were a number of people enjoying their sun beds it seemed a bit strange no one was in the water. Then only a couple of minutes after we sat down it started to rain - so much for the weather forecasters. The beach was soon deserted - we packed up and went home, albeit along a different road that hugged the beautiful coastline.
Before dinner Helen and Nick invited us, and the other couple (Brits Helen and Andrew) to a meet and greet. Nearly two hours of chatting with some wine and tapas - a wonderful idea and very much appreciated.
We were not very hungry but did decide to return to Lilas for a light dinner - after all the food was great, and relatively inexpensive and the ambiance wonderful. As Gayle was getting us a table while I parked the car she saw a fellow arrive with what looked like a bouzouki case. Her hopes for more music skyrocketed, soon to be confirmed by our server Nicholas. After dinner (Greek salad for Gayle and lamb ribs for Norm) we waited, and waited until finally three fellows brought out their bouzoukis and one his guitar at 9:45 pm, and the music began.
This was not a 'performance' or a 'show' but rather an intimate jam session of authentic Greek music for family and friends. A bunch of guys enjoying what they obviously love - just sitting in a taverna playing their music.
I grabbed my camera, this time got close up, and started taking photos and videos. This must not happen often as I was soon being guided to better opportunities. For example Nicolas took me into the kitchen in order that I could get a better photo of chef Spiros (?) cooking the night's meat on the spit. I shared our Travel Blog 'business card' with Nicholas and soon many were putting it into their phones, including the local priest who noted that now the church has our travel blog. Everyone seemed happy to have their photo taken - Chand the busboy, mama peeling and cutting potatoes, the kitchen staff, Lilas and Nicholas. While the music was playing we ended up chatting at length with another British couple - Mel and Chris, who too stumbled upon this experience and even after finishing their meal stayed to listen to the music. As the evening wore on Nicholas brought over a 1/4 litre of wine 'on the house'. When finished another 1/4 litre magically appeared. Then one of the bouzouki players came over and provided me a business card in order to let them know when the photos would be posted. The guys played for two hours, often with others singing along, although no one danced. It was nearly midnight when we finally left what without a doubt will be one, if not the, highlights of the trip.
In addition to the photos there are six videos below. Have a listen.
More fries being cut tonight - clear evidence they were not frozen.
September 06, 2023 - Paxos - B&B Zakspitaki
As will be the case every day we generally slept in to near 8:00 am and made it to breakfast 9:30 ish. Again a wonderful spread - great Greek yoghurt topped with fresh fruit and smothered in Greek honey; Helen's home-made cereal, meats, cheese, tomatoes and spanakopita (cheese in phyllo). Remember those apples from yesterday - today they showed up in an apple pie. Delicious.
There was a break in the weather mid afternoon, enough so that we went to Loggos to check into tickets for a boat tour to the west side of the island and then to Antipaxos. Afterwards we made our way to Paralia Levrechio Beach. The beach was very rocky - so glad we brought out water shoes but once we got into the gorgeous turquoise sea it was all good. Reasonably warm it was a bit wavy but all in all very nice to finally get in the water.
We returned to spend the afternoon at Zakspitaki before heading to nearby Patamos and Dolos Restaurant for dinner. Due to the rain the number of tables were limited so we had to wait / return in 45 minutes. Dolos is a not a taverna / grill house per se but tries to be a bit more sophisticated restaurant with mixed success. The cheese stuffed red peppers were very tasty but seemed expensive for the two small peppers. Gayle's mushroom risotto was good but not great and my Ionian fish soup (traditional recipe) was more a vegetable soup (albeit a good one) with a very little bit of fish rather than the other way around. The meal was enjoyed with a nice bottle of Peloponnese white wine, rather than the house wine we most often have.
.
Right - look at the colour of the water.
Below - Levrechio beach
September 05, 2023 - Paxos - B&B Zakspitaki
Most of the day was spent at Zakspitaki in our Zanzibar room Zanzibar is a very special place for Helen and Nick as it is the place they met. The Zanzibar room is a re-creation of a typical room in Zanzibar, Tanzania. The rooms on Zanzibar island are generally large with high ceilings, complete with ceiling fans to keep cool in high humid temperatures. The furniture and doors mainly came from Zanzibar. During Helen and Nick's first date Nick kept disappearing down side streets. When Helen asked him where he kept going he said he was keeping an eye on some beds he was having made in a local workshop with the one here in the Zanzibar room being one of them. For photos of the Zanzibar room see the September 03, 2023 post.
Paxos has been inhabited since prehistoric times. According to tradition, the Phoenicians were the first settlers. It is believed the name 'Paxos' originated from the Phoenician word 'Pax' meaning trapezoidal. In ancient times Paxos played a significant role, especially during the First Illyrian War in 229 BC when the Battle of Paxos was fought between the ancient Greek and Illyrian fleets. Paxos has been ruled by various conquerors, including the Romans in the 2nd century BC, pirates during the Byzantine era and Middle Ages, and by the Crusaders. Eventually the Venetians gained control of the island at the end of the 14th century. During the Napoleonic Wars the Ionian Islands were occupied by the French and Russo-Turkish alliance. However Paxos surrendered to the Royal Navy frigate HMS Apollo along with troops from Cephalonia and Corsica on February 13, 1814. The United Kingdom established the Ionian Union in 1815. In 1864 Paxos along with other islands were ceded to Greece.
We spent some time wandering through the small village, including a walk to the schoolhouse used in the series Maestro in Blue, shot here in Paxos as well as Corfu and Athens.
There are a number of restaurant choices but in the end the pizza oven attracted us to Pounentes where Gayle enjoyed a perfect size, thin-crusted, delicious Greeka pizza along with oven roasted potatoes - perhaps a bit large to be perfect but good just the same. Norm was also very pleased with his choice - a melt-in-your-mouth Moussaka. During dinner we engaged in a lengthy chat with a couple from England - Phil and Libby. It is a most enjoyable part of our travels to connect with other travelers as was the case here. A very nice couple.
From Lakka it is a short drive back to Zakspitaki.
September 04, 2023 - Paxos - B&B Zakspitaki
However shortly after finishing breakfast the weather forecasters were able to congratulate themselves as it started to rain. Not heavy but it was overcast with light drizzle throughout the day. As much as it precluded us from touring it was not nearly as bad as on the east side of the mainland on the islands of Skiathos and Volos where serious flash floods were experienced, resulting in at least one death.
The main house of Zakspitaki is over 120 years old. It was started in 1896 but never completed as, like a lot of Greeks at the time, the owners emigrated to Australia seeking a new life. Helen and Nicholas (Nick) bought the completely dilapidated property in 2001. The main house had only four walls, no floors and a leaking roof. The Zanzibar room, where we are, was an old goat shed. Jacaranda Cottage and the Summer House did not exist at all. The garden terracing had all fallen down towards (and in some cases, on) the main house. It has taken over 20 years to get the house and the outdoor terraces and garden as planned.
Paxos, or Paxi, is the romantic hideaway of the god Poseidon. A verdant island with turquoise waters, picturesque villages, imposing cliffs (on the west of the island) sheltering caves and fantastic beaches. Paxi, the smallest of the Ionian Islands is located 7 nautical miles to the south of Corfu and 8 nautical miles off the Greek coast. The capital of Paxi is Gaios, an attractive port naturally protected by the two islets of Panagia and Agios Nikolaos, give the resemblance of a Norwegian fjord. Olive groves and cypresses predominate on Paxos, while on Antipaxos there are vineyards and the renowned exotic beaches Brika and Boutoumi.
Corfu at the top left; the mainland on the right; Paxos and Antipaxos near the bottom.
The rain finally subsided in time for us to go out to dinner to a nearby taverna Lilas Grill House. We just caught the last seconds of an intense sunset before settling in at this quaint traditional tavern with good, relatively inexpensive Greek fare. Gayle had, surprise, a Greek salad while Norm lamb off the spit. We shared a plate of giant beans, a specialty of the island. For dessert Gayle had a walnut cake (Karidopita) while Norm had the orange pie. The best 'mountain' bread, water and a 1/2 litre of red wine brought the bill to 44 euros ($65 Cdn).
and an orange pie for dessert.
September 03, 2023 - Corfu => Paxos - B&B Zakspitaki
The drive, this time through the centre of the island, to the port of Lefkimmi in the south was quite scenic. Driving through some small villages we encountered a number of elderly Greeks - mostly men - congregating at the cafes and tavernas. Unfortunately it is virtually impossible to park meaning I couldn't stop to take any photos, plus we were not sure exactly how long it would take us to get to the port. But not to worry, we made it with plenty of time - over an hour to spare. We were met by Gregory and Roula who picked up their vehicle. A very nice couple. We then boarded the small Desponia P ferry (Kamelia Lines) for the short 45 minute, and reasonably calm ferry to Paxos.
One comment / observation before we leave Corfu was the sad state of garbage. Whether simply a lack of pride, or as we have heard issues with the landfill this part of the island was actually quite disgusting, with garbage bins overflowing and litter strewn almost everywhere. Not a good look.
We were met at Paxos port by Helen. After a bit of effort, and help from Helen, we connected with our car rental and soon followed our host the 4 kms inland to Zakspitaki, our B&B for the next six nights. We are staying in the Zanzibar room, very African themed in recognition of Helen and Nick's travels throughout Africa. When travelling we search for rooms with some character, and this checks all the boxes. Beautiful old furniture, gorgeous artwork, an open Moroccan shower - all wonderful.
After a short rest we drove to the nearby port village of Laggos where we strolled through, checking out restaurants. The roads here on Paxos are actually not bad - perhaps not always two lanes wide but often with pull over areas to pass, except for the drive along the waterfront of Laggos where one has to sneak their way between the water and the tables of the restaurants, all the time being attentive to pedestrians ambling along often with no awareness of the vehicles.
In the end we decided not to eat in Laggos but rather return to the village of Kourteika. There being two restaurants we chose Kareklas for dinner, where Gayle had a Greek salad, Norm Moussaka and for dessert we shared a Baklava. At the table next to ours was a couple from England - Paul and Sarah. We enjoyed a wonderful chat with them about Greece, to which they have, like us, travelled quite extensively.
Upon leaving we were only a few metres down the road when we saw a trio playing live Greek music. We stopped for drinks and listened for an hour or so. When leaving Ioanna approached us having noticed me taking photos. We chatted and she asked if I could send her the photos and video I had taken. Through meeting her we got the names of the musicians - Ioanna Bogdanou, Christos Papapanagiotou and Filippos Passalidis. Just before we left a couple of locals got up to dance. This happen stance opportunity to listen to live, and very good Greek music made our day and no doubt will be one of the highlights of our trip.
Old farm machinery and olive grinding wheels interspersed around the property.
September 02, 2023 - Pelecas Country Club
The day started as all others had, with a filling breakfast. There are a number of standard offerings, e.g. orange juice, coffee, fruit, meat and cheese, eggs, both scrambled and fried, bacon, tomatoes and olives cereal, breads and croissants, jams and honey while each day there was a different pastry, Mediterranean salad, and pie. Not only is the food very good but it would be impossible to leave hungry.
We hung around our room, booked our ferry ticket for tomorrow's trip to Paxos, did some co-ordination of vehicle drop off (in Lefkemmi) and pick up (in Paxos) and then decided to just stay put and enjoy the great weather by the beautiful pool.
After a second swim in the early evening we headed back to Stavros Traditional Grill where we understood there would be some music being played ... and there was. Having had a considerable amount of food the first few days we cut back tonight, sharing a tzatziki, baked mushrooms and saganaki. No Greek salad, no hand-cut fries, and no meat dish. However we could not resist finishing the meal off with another huge piece of honey-soaked baklava.
Perhaps not our favourite style of Greek music but enjoyable just the same. There was a youngster, perhaps three or four who certainly enjoyed himself as he danced vigorously and endlessly until shuffled off to bed. The addition of the music drew a very nice crowd of locals. Having to leave tomorrow morning we didn't stay too too late, until 10:15 ish.
Back to Pelecas Country Club where I worked on the travel blog for a while before calling it a night and off to bed.
The entrance to Pelecas Country Club.
September 01, 2023 - drive to the south of Corfu
We wound our way through Sinarades and then on to the resort area of Agh. Gordios. Although hard to believe the 'road' got even worse as we continued south, over a few mountains to Pendati, Paramoras and finally Prosoudi Bay. Just before Prosoudi Bay we happened upon a grove of very old olive trees, demonstrating considerable character in their trunks and branches. While there we met a couple, Jennifer and Julien, from London, although he originally from France. It provided a nice opportunity for each to take each other's photos at the base of the tree.
The signage called the 'mother' tree Mitera - being 1,500 years old, exceeding 6.5 metres in height and with an 8 metre mean diameter. The tree belongs to the Oleo europesa family of olive trees. It's variety is 'Liastro' - the first olive tree variety of Corfu, planted by the ancient Corintheans. The tree first bears fruit in April with harvesting in October / November to produce olive oil. Mitera is apparently the proud mother of 196,000 olive trees in this area - from Gardiki to Skala, as a result of traditional grafting. The olive trees thrive in the clay soil and proximity to the sea from which the sea salt provides protection from disease. This original tree 'Mitera' is also a movie star, with many Greek and international productions having been filmed here, including My Big Fat Greek Wedding 3.
Afterwards we stopped at the small Prosoudi Bay beach, mostly covered with lounge chairs and umbrellas as seems to be the case in most of Corfu. We almost ate at the taverna but decided to continue further south to Alonaki Bay, our original destination. The beach here was sandy and absent lounge chairs / umbrellas but very windy with virtually no one in the water. What there were were a number of wind surfers. Other than Gayle dipping her toes we did not go in.
We ate at the nearby Alonaki Bay Tavern, very nicely set amongst pine trees and gardens with views out over the sea. Gayle had her standards - a Greek salad and hand-cut fries. The salad was heavy on the onions but Gayle noted they were very sweet and tasty. Norm had the tomato balls - well not really balls; more like fritters and then the grilled octopus.
We drove back along the east coast, i.e. a 'real' road. We turned west at Gastouri, crossing to the west side and back to Pelekas. Not having dessert we enjoyed the karidopita and orange pie we had purchased at the bakery last night.
It being a stressful drive I expected I would sleep well tonight.
Last night we purchased a piece (not the whole pan) of Karidopita (walnut) cake and orange pie, which we enjoyed tonight.
August 31, 2023 - Corfu - Pelecas Country Club
The weather is great - generally sunny with temperatures in the high 20s, with a light breeze. Very nice spending time around the pool.
A bit more history:
"During World War II the estate enabled the family to grow wheat and have many animals - cows, sheep, chickens and bees. This provided the means to produce milk, butter, honey, eggs, oil and wine, goods that allowed for survival during those trying times.
Many of the objects used at the time have been salvaged, like the green milk containers in front of the Loutrouvio building, the wine barrels in the reception, the olive press stones, the scales (balanza) used to weigh the hay, the 'rampauli' (hook and rope used to drop buckets in the well), the family monogram used to mark the olive trees and some agricultural machinery used in the production of the wheat.
One of the stories that Nonna Lina told when she came down to have her glass of wine at the bar is that of an airplane, a Liberator that went down in the field during the war. Grandfather hid the survivors for a few days in the estate's Sagrado, where the dining room is today. There is a thank you letter sent by the survivors to the family."
Late afternoon we finally got out - going to the nearby beaches. The first seemed difficult to park and somewhat steep to get down to so we headed to Gilfada where we found a decent parking spot and the access was quite easy. Although late afternoon the beach was still quite busy. While we thought the waves were significant they did not stop quite a few from getting in the water. The best we did was walk through the edge along the sandy beach, just getting our feet wet. Gayle took a nice walk well down the beach while I enjoyed doing what I do best - had a nap.
We were treated to another colourful sunset as we returned to Pelekas Village for dinner, tonight at Jimmy's. Jimmy himself, not the original Jimmy being his uncle as the restaurant has been around since 1970, greeted us and took our order. Gayle had a vegetarian moussaka - a large piece that honestly I was very surprised she finished but she did, while Norm had the Pastitsada, a Corfu signature dish being a beef stew in a red / tomato sauce served with pasta, flavoured with Corfiat herbs. Also a large serving it too was very good.
No baklava tonight, although we did stop at the bakery for pieces of orange pie and Karidopita (walnut) cake for tomorrow.
August 30, 2023 - Corfu - Pelecas Country Club
Our day started with a wonderful breakfast. Fortunately breakfast is available until 11:00 am as we didn't roll down until 10:30 am after a solid sleep. Other than a dog or two in the evening and a few roosters in the morning it is exceptionally quiet here. Breakfast was all one could want starting with freshly squeezed orange juice, hot coffee, a huge selection of fruit, cheese, meats, tomatoes, olives, yoghurt, cereal, sweets, crepes, ham, eggs and a Ladenia, i.e. a traditional Greek flat bread - sort of like a foccacia. Enough to easily carry us through to dinner.
According to the Pelecas website in
"May 1843 the gate to the estate opened wide as Larione, the Italian caretaker welcomed the family. It was time to bring grand-father's descriptions to life - time to see the fields, the horses, the vines and the olive groves. Each September everyone gathered at the vines to pick the grapes. It was the time of the vine harvest, the 'Vedemia' as they called it. Wine was the first thing to come into the home, and after that they took to all other agricultural work that would bring the crops and food for winter. In mid-autumn they started picking the olives, 'La Raccolta". It was a festive process, accompanied by music. Each bouloukaris (man) brought along five or six of bouloukarisses (women) to help with the picking. During this process they sang in groups, competing with each other. The olives were taken to the olive press where everything was done with the help of horses."
The afternoon was spent relaxing - a bit of swimming; some napping; just enjoying doing nothing.
For dinner we drove 8 km to a highly rated Greek taverna out in the middle of nowhere. Unfortunately it was right on the road, but otherwise exactly what we expected. Generations of a family involved with a young son - perhaps 12 - taking our order, and another, around five riding his mini-scooter around the taverna. If last night was traditional Greek food tonight was the same, plus some. In addition to a Greek salad (this one with lots of tomatoes), hand-cut fries, lamb chops and baklava we had tzatziki, country sausage and for me retsina. Way too much food (we brought some home) but very tasty and enjoyable. Total cost of the meal - 52 euros or $77 Cdn.
The drive back, although in the dark, was easy as we were familiar with the route. We enjoyed the full 'blue' moon before turning in for the night.
Aug 28 and 29, 2023 - Halifax => Toronto => Athens => Corfu
Corfu is an island off Greece's northwest coast in the Ionian Sea. It is defined by rugged mountains and a resort-studded shoreline. Its cultural heritage reflects years spent under Venetian, French and British rule before being united with Greece in 1864. Corfu Town, flanked by two imposing Venetian fortresses features winding medieval lanes, a French-style arcade and the grand Palace of St. Michael and St. George.
While we will spend the last night of our trip in Corfu Town, upon arrival, after picking up our rental car at the airport, we crossed 10 km to the west-side of the island to Pelecas Country Club, our home for the first five nights.
As apparently most do we missed the unmarked entrance, driving a further km into Pelekas Village. Here we asked and were very helpfully directed back to the Country Club. In fact Alexandros, the restaurant owner who helped us called Angela at the Country Club to let her know we were on our way. For dinner we returned to Pelekas Village to eat at Alexandros Taverna.
Angela welcomed us warmly with a glass of Prosecco. Very shortly after being taken to our room it was nap time. We slept well for a couple of hours before returning to Pelekas Village for dinner. Before eating we were treated to a beautiful sunset. Dinner was as Greek as it gets - saganaki (grilled cheese), a Greek salad, lamb chops, and a large piece of baklava for dessert in a quaint taverna with soft Greek music playing. Total cost, including two glasses of quite nice Greek wine was 49 euros ($72 Cdn)
We returned to Pelacas CC and immediately found our pillows.
Country Club the welcome glass of Prosseco went down quite quickly.
While we enjoyed the setting sun.
After re-learning a few Greek words (included on the menu) we started with a piece of Saganaki (fried cheese).
We finished a great first Greek meal at Alexandros' Taverna with a nice piece of baklava.
And yet again back to Greece - Aug 28, 2023 to Oct 02, 2023
This trip will include five new islands - Corfu, Paxos, Lefkada, Kefalonia and Ithaca.
After arriving in Athens we fly to the island of Corfu where we will spend the first part of the trip. We then work our way south before returning for another five nights on Corfu at the end.
After flying from Halifax to Corfu via Toronto and Athens, a popular and relatively large island of 585 sq kms, we will spend our first five nights in the central and south parts of Corfu, not trying to see it all as we will be returning at the end of our trip.
We will then take a ferry from Lefkimmi in the south-east to the small island of Paxos (only 30 sq kms and a population of 2,300) where we will spend six nights.
We have watched two series filmed on these islands - the Durrells, filmed in Corfu and Maestro in Blue, filmed primarily on the island of Paxos.
After a few days in Lefkada we will ferry to the large island of Kefalonia (or Cephalonia as it is also known) where we will be in two spots, one in the north and then one in the south. From there it is to the nearby small island of Ithaki before returning to Igoumenitsa and back to (the north of) Corfu for five nights before spending our last night in Corfu town in order to catch an early flight Athens and back to Canada.
Check back the end of August for the first update after we arrive. In the meantime enjoy your summer.
