Our memories of
Costa Rica 2026
Memories of Costa Rica
Yet another great and interesting trip to Costa Rica, our 9th in the past ten years, with a number of wonderful memories, including:
- Dama and Teddy's smiles receiving their maple syrup and beanies
- the creative and varied pancake designs created by Dama
- delicious twist on a breakfast burrito at Vayu
- connecting over Messenger with our 'cookie monster' Clara
- gorgeous sunsets, especially at Playa Matapalo
- happy children at Punta Banco escuela
- returning the Matapalo Supper Club (MSC) and reconnecting with Darlenny and Daniel, love the hugs
- our meals (tenderloin, shrimp and pasta) and generous glasses of nice wine at MSC
- listening to the birds songs in the morning along with the insects and frogs at night
- being told of the more appealing Spanish name of the cicadas ... chicharras
- the loud, distinctive cry of the Costa Rican Drunken Jungle Chicken
- Gayle encountering three tolomucos / tayras, even more special on her birthday
- our walk to the waterfall and dip below the small falls at Macaw lodge
- our polite bat family (of 8) at Macaw lodge, just spending their day 'hanging' out
- German getting up to meet us at 3:30 am after our flight was delayed
- monkeys, monkeys and more monkeys - capuchins, squirrel and howler
- mama squirrel monkeys carrying their babies on their backs
- searching for sloths, although we were more successful previous years
- the capuchin on our Los Monos terrace attempting to steal Norm's computer mouse
- the Pizza Buffalina at Moromo Forneria - a big splurge
- artisan chocolate bars made on the property at Macaw and Tiskita Lodges
- another great meal at Gusto along with seeing the not-a-couple couple Cathy and Jeff
- Gayle's passion fruit Margarita at Butcher's Block
- enjoying tasty Margaritas, including those served with flowers
- our experience at Exotica, both the food and chatting with Maite
- simple / healthy cooking a Macaw and Tiskita lodges
- finishing with delicious leftovers from Taj Mahal on our last night
- beautiful, often long, sandy beaches - Pavones, Linda, Matapalo, Ventura
- the surfers at Punta Banco / Pavones
- Gayle's early morning walks on Playa Matapalo
- our morning fix of Costa Rican coffee
- Gallo Pinto breakfasts
- enjoying the warm pools at our lodgings
- the monkeys, scarlet macaws and amazon parrots on our drive near Vayu, as well as the 'guitar guy'
- our hosts - Marc, Rafael, Lori Ann, Isabella, Lisbeth, Lettika and German
- lodging staff - Dama, Teddy, Raquel, Michael, Yerelyn, Ivy, and Mario
- Lisbeth's presentation about the beginnings of Tiskita and her journey
- unexpected (for this time of year) heavy rain at Vayu
- returning to Soda Pena, and again seeing a large variety of birds
- the two hour wait at Palme Norte for bridge construction
- Night Tours at Macaw and Tiskita - frogs (lots of frogs), toads, scorpions, insects etc.
- the sweet fragrance of the Monkey Guava flower
- counting the blue morpho butterflies at Pacific Edge each morning
- the British surfing family at Pacific Edge, especially Noa's snake encounter
- Tiskita's jungle 'feel' - the vegetation, monkeys, jungle walks etc.
- our beautiful isolated cabina at Macaw Lodge - a bit of a climb but well worth it
- hammocks everywhere, now including Le Jardin de Los Monos
- Costa Rican families spending Saturdays and Sundays on the beach - picnics, swimming, bonfires etc.
- the scenic Cerro de la Meurte / Pan-American highway and its impressive cloud cover
- 'conversing' with our friends Linda and Bill, also travelling in Costa Rica at the same time
- the shopping spree for stuffed animals for our grandchildren
- hours and hours of relaxation; definitely another 'sloth' vacation
Expenses (based on average exchange rates of 1 US$ = $1.3711 Cdn, and
1 Cdn$ = 346.50 colones):
Here are the costs of our 27 day trip (all amount Canadian $):
$ 2,315 airfare
$ 7,652 lodging ($283 per night)
$ 2,529 food ($97 per day for dinner etc. including drinks); breakfasts are included in lodging
$ 3,086 4 x 4 vehicle ($2,754 / $106 per day for the vehicle; taxis $106; fuel and tolls of $227)
$ 136 souvenirs
$ 171 tours
$ 265 tips
$16,154 for 27 days
The total cost excluding airfare and souvenirs (i.e. lodging, food, entrances, vehicle and miscellaneous) was $13,703 or $508 per day.
Following are the average costs of our previous trips to Costa Rica.
- $383 in 2017 (17 days)
- $410 in 2018 (5 days - then on to Panama)
- $325 in 2019 (19 days)
- $345 in 2020 (24 days)
- $767 in 2022 (15 days) - reflecting the considerable costs at Golfo Dulce Retreat
- $426 in 2023 (21 days)
- $505 in 2024 (24 days)
- $465 in 2025 (26 days)
- $508 in 2026 (27 days)
Food and drink continues to be relatively expensive in Costa Rica, along with vehicle rental. One might expect in a Central American country food to be cheaper than here in Canada. While there is the option to eat at less expensive local 'sodas', prices in restaurants and even supermarkets (although this trip we actually did not purchase any 'junk' or other food / drink in any supermarket) are generally comparable to, if not more than Canadian prices. Vehicle rental, which was quite reasonable pre Covid-19, skyrocketed in 2022 with prices more than 3 x what they were as recently as 2020. The vehicle rental costs decreased considerably the past three years year but were still nearly double what we paid in 2020.
Following is a comparison of prices the past few years
Lodging Food Vehicle
2023 $230 $ 91 $102
2024 $281 $110 $ 93
2025 $263 $ 96 $ 97
2026 $283 $ 97 $114
Lodging ranged from a low of $121 US$ (Alameda Cariari) to a high of $370 US$ (Tiskita Lodge).
Most rates include breakfast (breakfast is optional at Alameda Cariari and Pacific Edge but included in the following). Normally, with the substantial breakfasts we do not eat lunch.
Here is a list of where we stayed, the daily amount we paid (in US$) and a link to their website.
$ 146 Alameda Cariari Heredia / San Jose www.alamedacariari.lodgivy.com
$ 174* Macaw Lodge Carara www.macawlodge.com
$ 140 Villas del Mar Dominical www.villasriomar.com
$ 188 Pacific Edge Dominicalito www.pacificedge.com
$ 370** Tiskita Punta Blanco www.tiskita.com
$ 165 Jardin de Los Monos Matapalo Beach www.jardindelosmonos.com
$ 121 Alameda Cariari Heredia / San Jose www.alamedacariari.lodgivy.com
* $238 total with $64 allocated to dinner (no lunch)
** $450 total with $80 allocated to lunch and dinner
As is our practice we communicate and book directly with each place, and in doing so save the establishment the booking commission. As well often we are known to staff when we arrive.
A reminder of our observations if visiting Costa Rica:
- always rent a 4 x 4 SUV if only for the greater clearance, and
- if driving, never arrive for the first time on an unfamiliar road at night
- if you can bring some Costa Rican currency, i.e. Colones
And as they say throughout Costa Rica ... enjoy the Pura Vida! (the Pure Life)
March 04, 2026 - Heredia / San Jose (Alameda Cariari)
to Montreal to Halifax
While the places we previously stayed around the airport in San Jose were all decent, none were so great we wanted to return. We have now found that 'great' spot. Alamdeda Cariari was an excellent choice. German, Jonathan and Patricia were all very helpful - wonderful people. Our room was large and well laid out. We will be back.
Luis arrived pretty much on 'Costa Rican' schedule (a few minutes late due to an accident) but in plenty of time to deliver us to the airport. We spent a short while in the Dragon Pass lounge where we had a bite to eat before boarding our plane to Montreal. The flight departed and arrived on schedule. With the Maple Leaf lounge closed we spent a short time in the 'Grab and Go Cafe' which was actually much better than expected. We then boarded our flight to Halifax that also departed and arrived on schedule where we were met by Brian to chauffeur us home.
The end.
March 03, 2026 - Heredia / San Jose (Alameda Cariari)
While we could have stayed just one night in San Jose we decided not to rush by staying an extra night, leaving us with a relaxing day to end our trip.
We started with breakfast - the Typical of course after which we had to return our vehicle. On the way we stopped at the nearby Wyndham to check out their gift shop where we ended up buying a number of stuffed animals including monkeys for Clara and Jett. It was then to the SIXT office where the vehicle was returned no problem. From there we took a taxi back to Alameda Cariari, also arranging for Luis to pick us up early tomorrow morning (6:15 am) to deliver us to the airport.
The rest of the afternoon was relaxing - packing, working on travel blogs and having a lengthy chat with a lady from Washington State. With a microwave in our room, rather than going out to dinner we had our left over Indian food.
We then finished packing and retired even earlier than usual given the need to be up and out early in the morning.
March 02, 2026 - Matapalo Beach (Le Jardin de Los Monos) to Heredia / San Jose (Alameda Cariari)
The thing about returning to a place for the sixth time is that one gets to know the owners and staff who have been there for a number of years. That is the case with Lettika, Gijs, Dama and now Teddy. The connection is so great that after having brought Lettika and Gijs some Nova Scotia maple syrup last year we decided to do the same this year for Dama and Teddy, along with a Canadian exclusive beanie baby for each. Their smiles tell it all.
One morning Gayle's bird app, left on for 15 minutes, recorded the names of 41 different bird songs. In total there were 50 birds identified at Le Jardin de Los Monos, they being:
Gray-cowled Wood Rail (Drunken Jungle Chicken) Common-tody Flycatcher
Roadside Hawk Blue-gray Tanager
Clay-coloured Thrush Tawny-winged Woodcreeper
Scarlet-rumped Attila Streak-headed Woodcreeper
Great Kiskadee Cocoa Woodcreeper
Bright-rumped Attila Rufous-tailed Hummingbird
Red-lored Amazon Rufous-backed Wren
Orange-chinned Parakeet Riverside Wren
Yellow-throated Toucan Palm Tanager
Tropical Kingbird Long-billed Gnat-Wren
Black-bellied Wren Ruby-throated Hummingbird
White-browned Gnatchatcher Scarlet Macaw
Red-crowned Woodpecket Bananaquit
Black-hooked Antshrike Lesser Greenlet
Northern Plain-Xenops Mealy Amazon
Buff-throated Saltator Red-lured Amazon
Northern Waterthrush Cocoa Woodcreeper
Tennessee Warbler Melodeious Blackbird
Yellow-bellied Elaenia Chestnut-backed Antbird
Vevety Manakin Blue Ground Dove
Blue-throated Golden Tail White-tipped Dove
Great Crested Flycather Inca-Dove
Southern House Wren Great Tinamou
Orchard Oriole Cinnamon Becard
Dusky-capped Flycatcher Yellow-olive Flatbill
But sadly we did have to leave. Having been told about lengthy delays due to construction on the Tarcoles bridge we decided to take the longer, but a different route to San Isidro El General and through the mountains / cloudforest to San Jose, approaching from the south-east.
We backtracked to Dominical where we popped into town to look for a few souvenirs for our grandchildren. We were able to find a couple of beach towels that we bought.
It was then up the mountains to San Isidro El General and along the Pan American Highway (#2) towards San Jose. The highest elevation in Costa Rica is reached a bit east in Chirripo National Park where Cerro Chirripo reaches a height of 3,820 metres or 12,530 feet.
With these elevations comes a significant drop in temperatures along with different flora.
While the journey began in bright sunshine there is a reason it is called the 'cloud forest' up here. As seen in the photos below the clouds, first appearing in the distance then rolled on to the highway for a stretch. With this constant moisture brings a very different environment, in particular we saw many different flowers along our drive. As well this area is a habitat for the Resplendent Quetzel, a beautiful / colourful trogan found from southern Mexico through Central America. While we did see one on a previous trip the best we could do this time was a well-done wood carving at a small shop along the highway.
As we decended to San Jose (still conisdered a high-altitude city at 3,800 feet above sea level) traffic of course increased. While we missed one turn we were able to get ourselves back on track to circle the north of the city towards the airport where we easily found Alameda Cariari returning after staying here the night we arrived.
For dinner we went to a nearby highly rated Indian restaurant - Taj Mahal. We look for four things in a restaurant: 1. choice and quality of food; 2. ambiance; 3. service and 4. price. Taj Mahal failed miserably on ambiance being in a complex with a number of bars each playing loud music. Whether one ate inside or outside one could not escape it. The choice of dishes was extensive albeit the food, requested to be medium in terms of spice, was rather bland. When we mentioned it to our server to his credit he did bring us some spice to add. Our pakoras to start were excellent and Gayle's Dal Makhani quite good Norm's coconut chicken curry just average. High marks for the design of the inside room and the copper dishes in which the meal and drinks were served. Overall average + except for the ambiance which was awful. The good news was that the servings were large, meaning significant left overs for tomorrow.
It was a short drive back to Alameda Cariari to bring a long day to an end.
March 01, 2026 - Matapalo Beach (Le Jardin de Los Monos)
The one problerm with spending six nights at one place, with few if any excursions, is that after a while there is little to talk about in our travel blog. Wake up at, or even before it starts to get light to hear the sounds of the birds - done that. Spend some time before breakfast, at times with a visit of monkeys, working on our travel blogs - done that. Down for breakfast, often the last to arrive - done that. Back up to our terrace to continue working on our travel blogs or relax in the new hammock - done that. Down to the pool to cool off - done that. An afternoon nap - done that. Waiting for the ususal late afternoon monkey visit - done that. To the beach to check out another wonderful sunset - done that. And then off to dinner.
While this may seem somewhat repetitive it is the experience we very much look forward to and enjoy. At this stage of our lives relaxation is what we strive for. Le Jardin de Los Monos and The Matapalo Supper Club both hit home runs in achieving our goal.
Fortunately Daniel's surgery went well with Matapalo Supper Club opening Sunday night as hoped. Although in a sling (for another two weeks) Daniel was upbeat and raring to go. We knew what we were going to have for dinner before arriving - Gayle the gnocchi with garganzola cream sauce, and Norm the surf and turf - another tenderloin albeit a tad smaller and grilled shrimp. Accompanied by nice Italian house wine this was one of the best meals had in a long time. Before leaving we again thanked Daniel and Darlenny for providing us the opportunity to eat so well, and assured them it was our intent to certainly be back next year. Hugs with Darlenny of course.
It is a short 1 km drive back to Los Monos where we did some packing in preparation for departing tomorrow morning.
Sunday is family day in Costa Rica with many enjoying the beach. having a picnic or preparing for a bonfire, as is the case on the left, under a full moon. We had to leave for dinner before it was lit but no doubt it would be large and roaring when ignited.
At the Matapalo Supper Club steaks are cooked on a wood fired grill at the entrance to the restaurant. Here Darlenny does her magic.
February 28, 2026 - Matapalo Beach (Le Jardin de Los Monos)
After our usual wake up to hear the early morning birds, have a first coffee, today watch a couple of monkeys in the nearby trees, Gayle spending some time on the beach and breakfast, unlike other days we went out today. We first went back towards Quepos to buy some banana bread at the Good Coffee Cafe, where we also bought some coffee to bring home with us.
We then headed about 3 km south of Matapalo to Playa Linda where we spent some time in the shade of the palms on the edge of the beach before and after a short swim in the ocean. The water is unbelievably warm, more so than most, if not all the pools at our lodgings. Of course we also enjoyed our banana bread, which while good was not as moist as Gayle makes.
Costa Rica is a birders paradise. Many serious birders visit here, with their huge telephoto lenses and lists. They take their mission very seriously. We on the other hand are 'birders light'. We enjoy listening to their songs and photographing those we can but compared to others we are amateurs. That said Gayle is becoming quite familiar with the sounds of many - the Great Kiskadee, the Drunken Jungle Chicken, the Macaw and the Toucan among others. On the drive into and out of Playa Linda there is this marshy wetlands area where we saw the Great Egret, White Ibis, Green Heron, Northern Jacana, and Purple Gallinule as well as no doubt heard others.
We returned to Le Jardin de Los Monos for a relaxing afternoon. Unfortunately the monkeys did not show today but perhaps tomorrow. It was then to the beach to watch the sunset (gorgeous again, although the colours were not as vibrant as ususal after the sun set) and being a Saturday the many families out enjoying a late afternoon picnic, and some preparing bonfires to gather around after sunset.
With The Matapalo Supper Club still closed we went to the other nearby restauarant A Kachete. We had eaten here once before, being quite pleased with the food. Same this time. Gayle had a pizza of primarily red pepper and pineapple - excellent on a thin crispy like crust and Norm enjoyed a simple but tasty chicken rice dish with yucca on the side, also very good. Another enjoyable meal at A Kachete.
We then returned to Los Monos where, as is usual we retired quite early, as is our custom here in CR.
Very effective marketing as the road signs did their job having us stop for a loaf of banana bread and two packages of coffee to bring home.
Another Purple Gallinule.
Left, a black spiny-tailed iguana.
Below, the Florida Swamp Lily or String Lily.
February 27, 2026 - Matapalo Beach (Le Jardin de Los Monos)
Another pretty much do nothing day, a repeat of yesterday.
The one big difference is that the monkeys returned this afternoon, being very active. They were very playful in the trees off our terrace and then started their parade across the wire and on to our roof as well as along the edge of our terrace.
Your might recall that last year, while we were at Soda La Pena we returned to find part of Norm's mouse on our terrace floor, and the other part no where to be found. Fortunately Teddy fournd it the next morning in the plants off the side of our terrace. Well we almost had a repeat. While Norm was on one side of the terrace and Gayle the other there was a shriek - Gayle had noticed a monkey on the inside of the coffee plants on our table in the process of grabbing Norm's mouse. She scared him / her off so all was good but they certainly are brazen.
Late in the afternoon we headed to the beach for the sunset. There was a Committee of vultures in a tree near where we stopped. Sunset tonight was very impressive with a beautiful orange sky.
For dinner we went 10 km or so down the road towards Dominical to eat at the road-side pirate themed restauante El Ticadero. We had eaten here once last year on a night when the Matapalo Supper Club was closed. Gayle enjoyed a full vegetable burrito while Norm was in the mood for a simple hamberguesa, which he too enjoyed.
Afterwards it was back to Matapalo Beach and Los Monos to bring another relaxing day to an end.
Palm trees and coconuts.
February 26, 2026 - Matapalo Beach (Le Jardin de Los Monos)
Our day started as usual with Gayle being up first, even before any light to hear the soothing sounds of the morning birds. Norm joined her after a while as the sun rose. Then Gayle went down to the beach (Norm's knees are such that walking on sand was not going to be a thing) to enjoy the quiet other than the sound of the waves. Usually the beach is vacant at this hour although today there was an early morning surfer. Gayle spent time looking for sloths - unfortunately unsuccessfully.
After breakfast and throughout the afternoon we spent our time either on our terrace or by the pool - working on our travel blogs, or watching the many butterflies or having a refreshing dip.
As mentioned the monkeys don't show every day. Today was one of those. There were a couple in the jungle but really very few, and none crossing over our roof.
For dinner we decided to take Lettika's suggestion of The Butcher Block in Quepos at the marina. It was an easy half hour drive. While we do not have fond impressions of Quepos - somewhat run down and then very very touristy with lots of hussle as one approaches Manuel Antonio - the marina area is a new development of very modern condos and upscale shops and restaurants.
The Butcher Block is a nice, albeit somewhat expensive restaurant. But hey one has to live a little once in a while. Service was fantastic. Norm started with a mango smoothie (perhaps not as 'mangoie' as he would have liked) and Gayle with a wonderful fresh passion fruit Margarita. The nacho chips for a starter were wonderful except they were way way over salted, so much so that when asked we mentioned it to our server. He brought us a bowl of different style chips and more salsa, in other words he addressed our issue. Gayle's Quesadillas were good with sour cream, guacamole and tomato accompanying, along with a pineapple cole slaw. Norm knew he was going to have the ribs so ordered the half rack. Lettika was correct in that the half rack was too much (although the leftovers did make for a nice lunch the next day) but they were very good - both in presentation and taste.
Unfortunately the drive back was not as easy as the drive to. Many motorcycles in Costa Rica either don't have or don't turn their lights on and frequently roar past. That, and the number of large 18 wheelers (this is the only road up and down the coast) and the absence of road lighting on a narrow two-lane highway make for a somewhat nervous drive ... but we took it slow and made it just fine.
Back to Los Monos and quickly to sleep.
Right - some lipstick palms in the garden near the breakfast area.
And below - today we switched - Gayle had the pancakes and Norm the toast.
February 25, 2026 - Matapalo Beach (Le Jardin de Los Monos)
Our first of five full days (six nights) here at Le Jardin de Los Monos, our 6th stay with Lettika.
After waking early to enjoy the sounds of the birds Gayle then spent some time in the new hammock (stand built by the skilled Teddy) before we headed to breakfast where we reconnected with Dama. Smiles and hugs followed - it is so nice when one gets to know the staff well.
We were of course the last to arrive for breakfast, with everyone else (except a French couple who arrived late last night) having finished and moved on to their activities. Coffee, juice, a fruit smoothie and a choice of either granola, wonderful thick home-made bread or Dutch pancakes provided a filling start to the day.
We then did nothing. Well we worked on our travel blogs, watched butterflies and cooled off in the pool but for all intents and purposes we did nothing. Then around 3:30 pm the monkeys arrived. While they don't show every day they do the vast majority. Apparently there are two troops - one of 25 or so, and the other much larger, of more or less 60. We must have had the larger troop this afternoon as the 'show' went on for nearly an hour. We have the perfect vantage point from Room 6 as the capuchins romp in the trees in the jungle off our terrace, finding nuts and bananas to eat, and jumping from branch to branch and tree to tree. There is a wire that leads to the room just above our terrace on which the monkeys cross providing an up close view of them. Some actually cross on the edge of our terrace, ouside the now well grown coffee plants that provide great privacy.
As the Matapalo Supper Club was closed Lettike suggested a new restaurant in Matapalo - Capitan del Mar. We went and we enjoyed. We started with the 'Happy Day' two for one margaritas along with a plate of banana chips for Gayle and shrimp ceviche (tart and delicious), with a few banana chips for Norm. Gayle then had one of the more nicely presented salads - a simple but colourful plate of lettuce, designed cucumbers, carrots, red peppers, tomatoes, red onion and pineapple. Norm went with the chicken wings - plump and tasty with a nice ginger mustard sauce. We went back to Los Monos happy.
There are three choices for breakfast - granola, home made grain toast and Dutch (very thin) pancakes with cute designs. This morning Gayle had the toast while Norm the pancackes with an omellete.
Sunset at Matapalo Beach.
February 24, 2026 - Punta Banco (Tiskita)
to Matapalo Beach (Le Jardin de Los Monos)
After four wonderful days at Tiskita it was time to leave, and move on back north to Matapalo Beach and Le Jardin de Los Monos.
It turned out to be a long day, in part due to a couple of traffic holdups due to bridge construction - the first for a relatively short 20 minutes just north of Pavones, and the second for over 2 hours at the bridge in Palme Norte.
But back to the morning. After packing we enjoyed coffee on the lawn amongst the peace of the jungle, the birds, the ocean etc. For breakfast Norm enjoyed a nice cheese omellete with vegetables. We then said goodbye to Martyn and Helene before finishing our packing and saying our farewells to Lisbeth, Jerry and a quick wave to Peter who was doing some business on a Zoom call.
Then it was down to the coast and 2 km south to the village of Punta Banco where we found the local Escuela, or school. There Anyeli had arranged for us to deliver a number of beanie babies / buddies to the children / students. This is something we have done for a number of years at a number of schools in Costa Rica, specifically in rural areas, which Punta Banco certainly qualifies. A very personal experience.
We then made a stop along the beach to watch the surfers. Pavones is one of the top surfing locals in Costa Rica, known for having one of the longest left-hand breaks in the world, a dream for experienced, advanced, and long-boarding surfers. The best Gayle could do was find a large piece of driftwood where she did her thing - imitating a surfer. The coastline here is spectacular with a long expansive beach and ocean for as far as one can see. We then passed a Turtle (Tortugas) Conservatory, a detour and delay for contruction and then Gayle spotted a number of Oropendola nests and birds.
We continued on to Golfito but got confused attempting to get out, ending up on a dirt road that led us through Piedra Blancas National Park and eventually back to Highway 34. The drive was then good until we neared Palme Norte at which time traffic stopped, and inched ... and inched ... and inched forward. During our waiting time a number of police vehicles roared by although we never understood why. As we waited ... and waited ... and waited we became increasingly worried about our chances at arriving at Los Monos by 6:00 pm. We came close but didn't make it until 6:07 pm. Fortunately Teddy normally hangs around until 6:15 pm to 6:30 pm, i.e. he was waiting for us when we arrived.
Teddy was on his game for our arrival. After the compulsory hugs he led us to our room where Gayle immediately jumped into the new hammock added to our room. We then entered the unit to again be greeted by our names spelled out in bougainvaillia flowers. But then Teddy upped his game by bringing Gayle a wooly blanket. Who in the heat of Costa Rica would want a fuzzy blanket? Gayle!
Now approaching 6:30 pm it was then immediately off to dinner.at the Matapalo Supper Club (MSC). We discovered MSC during our first visit to Le Jardin de Los Monos a number of years ago and have eaten there regularly since. In fact we eat at the MSC every opportunity we have, or in other words every night they are open. The food is great; the price is decent and Daniel and Darlenny are friendly, personal and wonderful. We are welcomed with smiles and huge hugs.
Sadly Daniel had a motorcycle accident 10 days or so ago, breaking his clavical. MSC was open the day we arrived but were closing the next night, the two they were normally closed after that and Saturday, planning to reopen on Sunday.
For dinner tonight Norm knew what he was having before walking in - the tenderloin with peppercorn sauce and roasted potatoes with rosemary. Gayle choose the mushroom fettuchini. Both were up to standard - delicious. A beer and a few glasses of wine made for an enjoyable meal ... and reunion.
On the right us in front of the lodge.
Below - some of the kitchen staff.
Before leaving the area we visited the Punta Banco Escuela, a small rural elementary school with 17 students, each of whom we provided a beanie baby / buddy.
A video primarily of the Oropendola's hanging nests.
More yellow sightings along our drive - to the right bananas ripening and below a striking Golden Trumpet Tree.
February 23, 2026 - Punta Banco (Tiskita)
We woke (once again very early) to the sounds of the birds and the sight of a flock of vultures 'drying out' in a nearby barren tree.
Prior to breakfast, in a tree near the lawn in front of the lodge a number of Scarlet Macaws visited. Their distinctive sound and vibrant colours never gets old.
After breakfast we simply enjoyed our surroundings - the flowers, the black iguanas, the huge Eucalyptus trees, and the songs of the birds. So peaceful, calm and wonderful.
After lunch we joined the British couple - Martyn and Helene for the presentation Lisbeth provided on the history of Tiskita Lodge, including a number of photos from the early days.
_________________
Tiskita Jungle Lodge, located 5 km south of Pavones near the village of Punta Banco on Costa Rica's remote southwest coast near Panama, was founded in 1978 by Costa Rican natives Peter Aspinall and Lisbeth Nunez. It is a pioneering eco-lodge and 800-acre private biological reserve focused on reforestation, conservation of endangered species (like the Scarlet Macaw), and tropical fruit cultivation.
Key historical aspects of Tiskita Lodge:
- Founder's Vision: Peter Aspinall began the project by building a home and reforesting land that had previously been cleared, transforming it into a thriving biological reserve with 15 cabins.
- Ecological Focus: The reserve boasts 15 km of trails, over 275 bird species, and an organic orchard with over 125 varieties of tropical fruit.
- Conservation Initiatives: Tiskita is known for monitoring Olive Ridley sea turtles and aiding in the reintroduction of the Scarlet Macaw.
- Family Run: The lodge remains a family-operated business, with the founders often sharing the history of the area and the lodge’s conservation efforts directly with guests.
- Location: Situated near Punta Banco, the lodge provides a secluded, 'end of the road' experience.
__________________
After lunch Gayle walked to the waterfall to enjoy more of the property and nature. Then after our afternoon relax time around the pool we returned to our cabin where we were again treated to some close up monkey time, and a visit from the resident black iguana.
Gayle then went off on the Night Tour with Mario as her guide. Similar to what we experienced at Macaw Lodge Norm passed given the terrain. Mario is very informed as to the insects, spiders, frogs and other jungle creatures - pointing many out one would never see on their own (see photos below).
After the tour we had a later than usual dinner before returning to our cabin for our last sleep here at Tiskita Jungle Lodge.
Vultures drying out in the early morning near our cabin.
Gayle searching for sloths, monkeys, birds and animals such as this agouti seen next to our cabin.
This morning a few Scarlet Macaws stopped by for a visit.
Two sets. And a short video (I meant squirrel monkeys, not spider).
According to Google a Brazilian Wandering Spider, one of the most venomous spiders in the world.
February 22, 2026 - Punta Banco (Tiskita)
As we expect will be the case every day we are here at Tiskita, we spent the entire day on the property.
A yoga group arrived last night that have added some noise to the lodge, but all is good. As a result breakfast was served buffet style this morning. Lots of fruit, great granola with coconut and nuts, rice of course, but not exactly Gallo Pinto, scrambled eggs, avocado, tortillas and Costa Rican 'squeeky' cheese accompanied with fruit juice and coffee. A great start to the day.
After breakfast Mario took us for a short walk across the hanging bridge to his favourite spot - a small pond near a stand of bamboo. Given Norm's knees we spent most of the time just sitting, listening to the sounds of the jungle and Mario identifying birds, flowers, vegetation, insects etc. His passion for wildlife here in the jungle is infectious. He spotted a number of birds, a spider, a lizard along with telling us about various plants and flowers. A very peaceful and relaxing experience. If Norm's mobility was better we would have gone to the waterfall but it was fine to just sit quietly still quiet and let the jungle come to us. Gracias Mario.
Some of the afternoon was spent in the pool and watching a nearby coati climb a tree to access the Jackfruit for his / her lunch (check out the vido below). We returned to our cabina in hopes of another monkey show. While a few did rustle through the trees it was not as active as yesterday.
Back down to dinner where we enjoyed another good meal and a chat with Helene and Martyn, a couple from England who were in one of the cabins in the Toucan group, where we were the first night. They are here for three nights before heading on to Panama. A very nice, well travelled, couple. No doubt both they and us were grateful for not having to share the space.
Another great day in the jungle!
The plant commonly known as 'Hot Lips' or 'Sore-mouth Bush'. Native to tropical forests in Central and South America the striking red structures are bracts (modified leaves) that look like lips, designed to attract pollinators like hummingbirds and butterflies.
Below, the creek under the swinging bridge.
February 21, 2026 - Punta Banco (Tiskita)
Our first full day at Tiskita with a big decision to make - do we stay in Cabin 10 with its nice open air outdoor bathroom and shower or move to Cabin 4 (without the outdoor bathroom) that one can drive to?
After lunch Jerry took us up to Cabin 4 to check it out - actually it is a bit further away from the lodge than #10, although less steep and with the benefit of being able to drive a narrow lane essentially to the front door. Another factor was our privacy - Cabin 10 is in a unit of four cabins. If other guests arrived it could be a bit cozy. In the end we decided to move.
One of the benefits of doing so was that although there were a number of monkeys and mammals - we saw coatis and agoutis around #10 - there were even more squirrel monkeys near Cabin 4 late in the day. They put on quite a show for us.
Again it rained quite heavy in the afternoon such that with the slippery way to the lodge for dinner we did drive. We receive three meals a day here - breakfast at 7:30 am; lunch at 12:30 pm and dinner at 6:30 pm. Food is simple but well prepared - tasty, with good servings of vegetables. Staff, although their English is limited are trying, especially Ivi who works hard to try to understand English. It is fun trying to help her.
After dinner it was back up to our cabina for what has become a normal thing - early to bed.
February 20, 2026 - Coronado Tres Rios (Vayu Retreat)
to Punta Banco (Tiskita)
After four very relaxing days - thanks in part to the wonderful terrace - it was time to move on => south past Golfito to Pavones and on to Punta Banco and Tiskita Lodge.
Our final breakfast was Huevos Rancheros on a thick piece of bread, again tasty and very nicely presented.
There is a nearby elementary school, Tres Rios, to which we wanted to deliver beanie babies to the students. However with the school is closed this week Rafael offered to deliver them for us. While it is nice to deliver in person the important thing is the gifts to the children. Thanks Rafael.
As mentioned when we arrived I was hopeful Vayu would grow on me, and it did. It is certainly an elegant lodging. Is it perfect? Pehaps not but then no place is. It feels a tad 'squished' in which seems strange given all the land up here, but when inside it is class +. The accomodations, the pool, the restaurant are all first class. And the birds are plentiful. But what makes Vayu so welcoming are Rafael and Marc, who both were very helpful, taking their time to chat and provide us their stories, along with plans for improvements to Vayu, including better parking and a bar / stage area where Rafael can perform, he being a singer / dancer.
The first portion of the drive is quite easy - south to Palma Norte and then continue south to Rio Claro.
From there it is a bit west to Coto after which the road is primarily dirt - not awful but not great. The last 35 kms takes over an hour according to Google.Maps.
Along the way a small troop of squirrel monkeys crossed the road, necessitating a stop and photo shoot.
We were stuck for construction at a bridge approaching Pavones but then the last five to 10 kms are a scenic drive along the ocean from Pavones to Punta Banco and Tiskita Lodge.
The Lodge itself is a few hundred metres up a hill, providing views of the ocean over the vegetation.
Before heading down to dinner the skies opened up again, like yesterday afternoon at Vayu. So much so that Jerry showed up at our doorstep with umbrellas. Talk about service!
We headed to the lodge to check it out and have dinner. The lodge is both surrounded by flowers and has numerous beautiful, colourful arrangements throughout.
Dinner was comprised of a fresh juice, a main plate and a small dessert. All were very good and more than sufficient - we were full when finished. Avocado, yucca, salads, squeaky cheese for Gayle and fish for Norm was served with tortillas, along with a square of chocolate cake for dessert.
The rain had stopped by the time we finished dinner and walked back to our cabin. We both agreed we expected to very much like Tiskita.
On the left the trail from our cabina to the lodge.
And below the common deck for the four units of our cabin.
February 19, 2026 - Coronado Tres Rios (Vayu Retreat)
After spending the early morning listening to and enjoying the many birds the come to the tree just outside our terrace we headed down for breakfast. This morning we were served a fried egg, rice and beans, tomato, avocado and tortillas - a Tico breakfast minus the squeaky cheese and plantains. Beautifully presented and very tasty.
We saw another table set. Marc explained that every Thursday they have a 'team' breakfast for all staff (five in total). A very nice team building thing for Marc and Rafael to do for their staff..
After our early afternoon time in the pool the skies darkened, and unlouded a torrential downpour. Fortunately we were on our terrace, half of which is protected by a large roof. We stayed much drier than the birds!
For dinner we returned to Exotica, a restaurant in Ojochal, we first went to in 2020, returning in 2022 (we were not in Costa Rica in 2021 due to Covid), 2023, 2024, 2025 and now 2026. We have gotten to know Maite, who owns Exotica with her husband through our repeat visits and being Facebook friends.
Gayle started with a Strawberry Margarita and Norm a water mango smoothie. For his starter Norm had the Costa Rican Ceviche, a delicious combination of fish marinated in a lime broth. He orders it every time, and loves it every time. Gayle also had her 'go to' dish - the Pasta Strogonoff with mushrooms, basil, tomato and cream served with garlic butter bread and parmesan ... along with a second Margarita - this one passion fruit, and even better than the first. Norm had the Thai Pot comprised of coconut milk, ginger, srimp, fish and vegetables served over jasmine rice. All the food here is so good.
Tonight's dessert menu did not include our favourite - bananas flambe. We asked if they might have it, mentioning our backup was the Lime Pie in a toasted coconut crust. Not only did Maite say the bananas flambe was absolutly no problem but insisted on giving us a Lime Pie to take away.
So all was good. We enjoyed another great meal and were about to leave with a free dessert. Until we were chatting with Maite while packing up and asked for the bill. In response Maite said she and her husband wanted to cover our meal ... it was entirely free! I could see tears welling up in Gayle's eyes as she and Maite hugged. It was hard to accept such a generous offer. The only thing we could think to do was offer Maite a couple of beanies for her children.
It is so gratifying to be reminded of the many nice, generous people we have crossed paths with during our times in Costa Rica.
Today's birds that could be photographed. There were many others heard but not seen.
On the left the Picazuro Pigeon and below a male Variable Seedeater.
Very unusual for this time of the year it poured rain this afternoon.
February 18, 2026 - Coronado Tres Rios (Vayu Retreat)
A very quiet and relaxing day.
We were up early to enjoy the multitude of birds who visit.
Then breakfast with today's being a burrito that Gayle very much enjoyed; Norm less so.
The rest of the day was spent either swimming in the pool or relaxing on our terrace.
Before sunset we headed to Playa Ventanas, a well known beach just north of Ojochal. The beach was quite crowded (perhaps with Envision attendees). The sunset did not disappoint.
For dinner we returned to Heliconia, a restaurant we ate at in 2020. It was every bit as good this time. Gayle started with a Margarita, it being so good Norm ordered one as well. Gayle then had a serving of Guacamole, i.e. avacado dip served with Pico de Gallo, refried beans and tortilla chips, while Norm had the Coconut Shrimp with mango dip. For main courses Gayle had the Citrus salad with lettuce, fresh strawberries, pieces of orange and creamy goat cheese served with balsamic reduction. Norm order the Pork Tenderloin and Shrimps with mushrooms and white wine sauce accompanied with sauteed vegetables and mashed potatoes. Somewhat unusually Norm ordered dessert - passionfruit cheesecake served with a topping of passion fruit. The ambiance and food were all excellent - we would definately recommend.
It was a 20 minute drive back to Vayu where we called it a night
Some of today's birds.
Morning coffee and breakfast burrito with avocado.
Sunset at Playa Ventanas (near Ojochal).
Left - pork tenderloin with shrimp, potatoes and vegetables.
Below - a piece of passion fruit cheesecake.
February 17, 2026 - Coronado Tres Rios (Vayu Retreat)
Sleep was somewhat difficult. The air conditioner was quite noisy but with it turned off and no fans it got quite hot. However up early and up to the terrace where there is a good fan, a little breeze in the morning and lots of birds to enjoy.
Nineish we went down for breakfast. Again there is only what is being served - no choice. That said what was served was quite good - coffee - either a latte or traditional Costa Rican drip; orange juice; a bowl of fruit (watermelon and delicious pineapple) and today a cheese filled omellette. Quite nice.
The rest of the morning and afternoon were spent lounging on our terrace - watching the many birds in the trees nearby or swimming in the very nice, very warm pool. Perfect.
For dinner we decided to take Rafael's recommendation and go to Costanera House 186 - a place we would describe as an elevated Soda - a hole in the wall located right on the highway with lots of truck noise but an excellent menu of well-prepared delicious options.
Arriving a bit early we decided to go for a drive - about 5 km south to Ciudad Cortes and then somewhat randomly along some dirt roads in the direction of the ocean.
As the road started to narrow we heard, and then saw a few Scarlet Macaws. Then Gayle heard some rustling in the trees and saw a few capucchin monkeys. While trying to pick them out we heard a number of squawking Amazon parrots.
Shortly thereafter we observed a number of Scarlet Macaws in a tree directly across from a house where this older fellow stepped out.
Although we couldn't communicate he motioned as if playing a guitar. As I looked on inquisitively he went inside and returned with, yes a guitar on which he played a few chords. While he won't win any music awards he appeared quite proud to have played for his new 'amigos'.
In spite of Gayle's conerns re finding our way back to Costanera House 186 Norm managed to navigate the maze with no problems. We each started with a Margarita. Norm then had the Ceviche de Camaron (shrimp) - he never tires of Costa Rican ceviche. He then had the chicken curry special - again delicious. There were actually no vegetarian options on the menu but when Gayle asked she was given a choice of three. She went with the Quesidillas, expecting a small quesidilla and perhaps a side salad. Rather she received three large quesidillas, guacamole and fries. The service and food were exactly as Rafael had led us to believe - excellent.
A short 5 km drive back to Vayu Retreats brought an end to another day.
Right: a mountain almond tree, a species native to the rainforests of Central America, including Costa Rica.
Sereneded in rural Costa Rica.
February 16, 2026 - Dominicalito (Pacific Edge)
to Coronado Tres Rios (Vayu Retreat)
After five great quiet days at Pacific Edge it is time to move on. What a seamless transition from Michaelynn and Sid (who we did miss) to Lori Ann and Isabelle. Friendly, welcoming, personable and helpful Michaelynn and Sid are fortunate to have found them. Hopefully things will work out and Michaelynn and Sid will be able to maintain an interest in the property (and we can continue to return).
After one last swim and some time relaxing in the hammock we were off for the relatively short drive further south down the coast past Uvita and Ojochal to Vayu Retreat Villas in Coronado Tres Rios. Although 3 km inland from Highway 34 most of it (2.5 kms) is paved with only the last stretch being dirt, and as dirt roads go pretty good.
The pool looks lovely.
We decided to eat at Vayu tonight. With respect to dinner on the down side there is no choice and prices are higher than what we are used to, e.g. $24 Cdn for a Mojito. Furthermore one gets the day's menu - no choice. Tonight was a tuna / avocado / pear tartar; shrimp fettuccini and a caramel flan with coconut for dessert. On the plus side the food was very good; and as well on the plus side was the adaptation for vegetarians - mushrooms rather than shrimp with Gayle's fettuccini, and very creatively baked watermelon soaked in soy sauce in place of the tuna.
Gayle's impressions of Vayu are very positive and I am being open minded. What I expect will sway me are Rafael and Marc. We have not yet met Marc but Rafael has been wonderful, very welcoming and engaging. If Marc is anything like him I expect this place will grow on me.
Only one Baruca mask on display.
Right - the 'kitchen' area.
Below - the 'bathroom' area.
February 15, 2026 - Dominicalito (Pacific Edge)
Another wonderful day at Pacific Edge, pretty much the same as the previous.
Nahla was so proud of her (dead) grasshopper. Something else to draw.
We said goodbye to Brent and and Jessica, a couple from Massachusettes. Brent shared a collection of wonderful photos he took on a tour to Serpe, another nature tour and around the property. A number of excellent shots.
Breakfast this morning was a delicious frittata, along with the everyday beautiful plate of a variety of fruits.
After hearing but not seeing any toucans the first number of days we were treated to a few in the trees in front of our cabina. There was a Fiery-Billed Aricari and a few Yellow-Throated Toucans. Some very nice photos of the toucans if I do say so myself.
After a colourful sunset seen from one of the miradors we went in to Dominical for dinner at Phat Noodle. A Classic Margarita for Norm and a Passionfruit Mojito for Gayle to start, and then Norm had the Teriyaki Rib Bites - tender rib chunks tossed in house Teriyaki sauce with sesame seeds and spring onions (delicious). Gayle had a Peanut Satay Bowl - rich peanut coconut sauce with mixed vegetables, cilantro, spring onions, crushed peanuts and steamed rice with tofu (also superb) while Norm the Pulled pork lettuce wrap - romaine lettuce wraps with pulled pork, peanuts, spring onions, pickled vegetables, bean sprouts and sweet chili sauce (ok but the pork, which was very tasty, was too messy wrapped in lettuce - they should have had tortillas).
It was then a short drive back to Pacific Edge to bring an end to yet another relaxing but perfect for us day.
Noa, who stepped on the snake that then wrapped itself around his ankle.
Nahla, who scurried up to tell Lori Ann of the snake incident.
February 14, 2026 - Dominicalito (Pacific Edge)
So yesterday Anna and Rory found a snake in their rafters. But his morning things got more exciting as Noa actually stepped on the little fellow on his deck (or perhaps it was another snake?) after which it wrapped itself around his ankle. With Nayha racing to the lodge and Lori Ann down to take photos to check with Sid it was concluded the snake was a small harmless Pygmy Boa Constrictor. Just the same lots of excitement. When we asked him about it when he passed by on the way to the pool Noa was not at all fussed - quite chilled.
As per our routine we had breakfast - today a Costa Rican Tipico of Gallo Pinto (rice and beans), scrambled eggs, Costa Rican (squeaky) cheese, avacado and plantain, after which it was back to our cabin to relax.
Around noon, with both families out - a German family with two very young children arrived yesterday - we return to the pool for some time cooling off in the quiet of the vacant pool.
For dinner we returned mid to late afternoon to Soda Pena, a place we ate last year, for an early meal. The Soda is 16 km (a very slow twisty turny drive) up the mountain on the road to San Isidro de El General. While eating here last year Mauro told us he was going to build a terrace on the back with views over the valley to the ocean. We were pleased he followed through. While Mauro was not there his father (or at least we assumed) led us to the back and the new eating area. He then immediately placed a couple of bananas on a stand that, guess what, attracted a huge variety of colourful birds including a Fiery-billed Aracari, Cherrie's / Scarlet-rumped Tanagers, Blue-gray Tanagers, Grey-headed Tanagers, Golden-hooded Tanagers, Buff-throated Saltators, Green Honeycreepers, Red-legged Honeycreepers and a number of Hummingbirds. It was quite the show with lots of opportunity for some great photos.
For dinner we each had a smoothie - Gayle pineapple and Norm guanabanana aka soursoup. Gayle then had avacado and reffried beans with the excellent taco chips - taco chips seem so much better here in Costa Rica - while Norm had the steak Cascado plate with salad, rice and beans.
During the drive down the mountain the sky turned specacular colours of orange as the sun set. Unfortnately there were no places to turn off the road for any photos. Sometimes one just has to enjoy with their eyes.
The new back terrace at Soda La Pena.
Female Cherrie's Tanagers.
Male Green Honeycreepers - more of a teal colour.
Smoothies to drirnk - pineapple for Gayle and guanabana / soursop for Norm.
February 13, 2026 - Dominicalito (Pacific Edge)
What do they say - "My, my, here we go again". First the Howlers begin their wailing 5:30 am ish. Then the birds arrive, serenading us with their melodic sounds. Gayle is up earlier to sit and listen with Norm following somewhat later. He rises to greet a few morning insects. After an hour or so catching up on news and / or working on our travel blogs we head up for breakfast.
Lori Ann prepares a massive tray of fresh fruit - this morning mango, pineapple and papaya while Isabelle does her magic in the kitchen. Today are tacos - vegetable for Gayle and chorizo for Norm, with a side of potatoes. We linger meeting and chatting with other guests. Today there are three - Jeff, Lisa and a cousin Dave, from the Toronto area with whom we chat for some time. Jeff and Lisa moved to Costa Rica just before Covid to start the next chapter of their lives They bought and have run a B&B north of Alejuela but are now considering a move to somewhere else. They were here for a night at Pacific Edge as Sid and Michaelynn are looking for a partner with their move (at least for the next few years) back to the US. They seemed impressed (who wouldn't be) but who knows?
We then return to our cabina where we relax for the rest of the morning before heading to the pool noonish. The British family are off surfing or exploring so the pool is all ours. Quiet, relaxing and refreshing.
The afternoon is much the same - working away on our travel blogs with hammock time for Gayle and a nap for Norm. It's then time to head out for dinner. The past two years we have enjoyed an Italian restaurant, Gusto - owned and operated by an Italian family, about 15 kms away near Uvita. We returned and were equally impressed. The food is superb and the wine - all Italian, including the house wine. We ordered a bottle of Siciian Nero D'Avola to enjoy with dinner. After a glass of Spumante and house provided pieces of bruschetta we each ordered and enjoyed a pasta. Gayle had the rich creamy gnocchi with gagonzala, pear and walnuts, and for Norm the fettucinni alla Bolognese, with its tasty meat ragu sauce. Gayle's pasta was so rich she decided to pass on dessert - Tiramisu. So good!
As we were finishing our meal someone taps Gayle on the shoulder and asks if there is anything else she would like. It was Kathy from a few days earlier at Villas Rio Mar. She and Jeff had taken us up on both restaurant suggestions - last night at La Percella and tongiht at Gusto. We enjoyed yet another nice chat with them.
A 20 minute drive had us back to Pacific Edge where we again turned in early.
A small pineapple growing near the breakfast area.
February 12, 2026 - Dominicalito (Pacific Edge)
Our first full day at Pacific Edge of what will be four days of doing prettty much nothing.
The Howlers start their 'howling' shortly after 5:00 am after which the birds begin to sing. Gayle normally heads outside 5:45 am ish to listen to the sounds while Norm is more or less an hour later. After working on our travel blogs for a while we wander up to breakfast between 8:30 am and 9:00 am. While we are saddened not to have Sid's banana pancakes Isabelle did a wonderful job with French Toast smothered with pineapple.
One highlight of our morning was seeing a toucan in a nearby tree.
We spent a considerable amount of time chatting with the English family who arrived just after us - Rory, Anna and their three children Noa, Marley and Nahla. Rory in particular, but also the children, are serious surfers having brought their surf boards with them from England on their trip. After they headed to the beach to surf we spent some time cooling off in the small but adequate pool here at Pacific Edge.
For dinner we returned to Ricar 2 where we ate last year. A Margarita for Gayle and a Mango Smoothie for Norm followed by a plate of onion rings. Gayle then enjoyed a wonderful salad covered with avacado while Norm had the special - Surf (the thing that made it 'special' was octopus) & Turf (Angus beef) with pasta in a pesto sauce. Not the best choice as the octopus was nothing like that in Greece or Spain and Norm made the mistake of not asking the cost of the 'Special'. Like last year when he ordered a special (tuna and shrimp that were excellent and worth the extra cost) this 'special' was nearly twice the cost of the menu Surf & Turf with shrimp. Live and learn.
While eating Gayle said "That looks like Lettika?" And indeed it was. Lettika and Gijs own Le Jardin de Los Monos in Matapalo Beach where we have stayed a number of times and will be returning in two weeks for a six-night stay. We enjoyed a nice chat before returning to Pacific Edge to call it a night.
A Toucan in a nearby tree.
Colourful flowers throughout.
Isabelle, the breakfast chef.
February 11, 2026 - Dominical (Villas Rio Mar)
to Dominicalito (Pacific Edge)
Another moving day. Our stop at Villas Rio Mar was only one night as it was a 'fill-in' as a result of a reservation mix-up at Macaw Lodge. A great choice as the grounds were nice, the pool very warm, a decent on site restaurant and we met and had extensive chats with two other couples.
We both had the Huevos Rancheros for breakfast, along with a plate of fruit. During breakfast we met a German couple from Berlin - Gabriele and Claas with whom we chatted for a considerable time. Afterwards while at the pool Kathy came over, thanked us for the Travel Blog card, and chatted also for a while. Gayle offered her (and Jeff) a couple of restaurant suggestions - La Parcella and Il Gusto.
After checking out (at noon) we hung around until 2:30 ish before heading the 7 km down the road to Dominicalito and our return to Pacific Edge. Circumstances are such that Michaelynn and Sid are not on-site this year, but rather back in the States. They have a 'gate-keeper' - Lori Ann and her daughter Isabelle, who has taken over Sid's duties of making breakfast.
One of the driving reasons we keep coming back to Pacific Edge - beyond the spectacular views and relaxing environment - is Michaelyann and Sid. While perhaps a bit apprehensive when we realized they would not be on-site as it turned out we had no reason to be. Lori Ann and Isabelle have been wonderful - very friendly and Isabella's breakfasts have been creative and tasty.
For dinner we chose to go to Moromo Forneria, a pizzeria in Dominical. Given we were quite hungry we thought the 10 " pizzas might have been a bit small and where we both were attracted to the Burratina Fresca we ordered the large 18 " version. And yes it was HUGE - and delicious. But it was also the most expensive pizza on the menu. Norm knew it at the time we ordered - that it was $65 Canadian, but given the amount of Buratta we understood!
We returned to Pacific Edge and turned in early as is the case here in Costa Rica.
For breakfast fruit. And Huevos Rancheros.
February 10, 2026 - Carara (Macaw Lodge) to
Dominical (Villas Rio Mar)
Today is moving day. We were supposed to stay at Macaw Lodge for five nights but a mess up with the conversion of their reservation system, or so we were told, resulted in the last night not being available. Not the end of the world as we found another place, Villas Rio Mar, in Dominical that looks pretty decent.
We enjoyed Gallo Pinto for breakfast before saying good-bye to Michael and making our way down the mountain back towards Tarcoles. There was another route through the mountains but Michael cautioned us that the roads were really not very good, having him recommend we go back the way we came, which we did.
A very decent place, perhaps more like a hotel than a B&B (although breakfast was included) with a nice room, incuding a terrace, a large pool, very nice grounds and an on-site restaurant - the Crocodile Grill & Bar.
We were just in time for Happy Hour, enjoying a Guaro Sour by the pool. After a nice swim we headed to the Grill for dinner. We started with a bowl of tortilla chips accompanied by guacamole and salsa. Gayle then had the Caprese salad, with fresh mozzarella cheese, pesto and house tomatoes. Norm had the catch of the day, Red Snapper with patacones, chipotle and sauteed vegetables. Norm finished with a piece of cheesecake - free by signing up to the Croc Club. He may have been the first to have ever done so as no-one seemed to have any idea as to the offer. Fortunately he had the email with him and did get his 'free' cheese cake. It was ok - not outstanding but ok.
We ended up chatting with a couple at the next table - Kathy and Jeff from Chicago, offering them a few restaurant suggestions as they were going to be in the area for a couple of additional days. It is always nice to engage with other travellers.
An upcoming festival in Bijagual.
Few and far between but here is one road sign.
Cacao at Macaw Kakau.
Happy hour drinks - Guaro Sours.
February 09, 2026 - Carara (Macaw Lodge)
Two variances on our normal routine day (up at 7:00 am; down for breakfast at 8:30 am; chat with others and work on our travel blogs late morning and early afternoon; back up to our cabina; down for dinner at 6:30 pm) today, they being a walk to the waterfall and a piece of birthday cake for Gayle, it being the beginning of her 8th decade as she turns 70 today.
A bit about the Lodge - around the lodge is a tropical botanical garden of 5 hectares with more than 500 species of heliconias and bromeliads from all over the world, including ornamental, medicinal and agricultural plants. Wherever one looks or walks there is something amazing to see and experience! The 264-acre property offers eight acres of cultivated trails where one can stroll through the giant black bamboo forest, hike to the waterfall and take a refreshing swim, enjoy a break in the gazebo overlooking the lagoon or take refuge in the palm forest. There are two outdoor yoga studios, a fruit and cocoa orchard to explore, or one can take a guided tour of the sustainable farming operation and learn more about hydroponics, aquaponics, vermiculture and composting.
In the afternoon we took the short walk to the waterfall. There is a 2 1/2 km option and a much shorter 15 minute trail. Norm made it most of the way ... as far as the Natural Spa where we stopped to cool off. Gayle then continued on to the larger waterfall, but with the prospect (i.e. a warning from Michael) of a considerable number of steps Norm turned back. After seeing the larger waterfall on her way back Gayle was startled to see two all black cat like mammals. And then a third appeared. Although Gayle's first impression was they might be black panthers she didn't expect that to be the case. She then guessed something like a river otter. Upon describing the animals to Michael he showed us a picture of Tayra (Tolomuco in Spanish) to which Gayle said "Yes, that's what I saw". They are a member of the weasel family, i.e. river otter was not a bad guess - mammals we had never heard of. Apparently 20 mammals have been sighted on the property. Earlier I had seen a skunk, and while we did not see it another guest mentioned seeing an agouti.
Dinner again was delicious starting with another fruit drink - tonight guayabilla, and a pumpkin and tumeric soup. Rather than potato with the main course, which of course included a variety of vegetables, we were served a green banana mash. Gayle enjoyed a sweet red pepper smothered in cheese and tomato sauce while Norm had burger covered with a red pepper. Dessert for Norm was strawberry ice cream but for Gayle, given today is the anniversary of the year of her birth, aka her Birthday a piece of cake with a flaming candle was delivered by Raquel, Michael and staff while singing happy birthday. A very nice gesture.
Below, a nice seating area near the pond on our way from our cabina to the lodge, and on the right one of the many interesting flora, a caladium bicolour.
Not all birds are colourful - the Black Cuckoo Shrike.
February 08, 2026 - Carara (Macaw Lodge)
We are quickly finding our routine. While there are certainly some bird sounds each morning perhaps not as many as we were expecting. We are normally up 7:00 ish to spend an hour or so catching up on news etc. before heading down the hill from our cabin for breakfast. Today's serving was Gallo Pinto which we both very much enjoy - rice and beans along with eggs (fried or scrambled), Costa Rican 'squeaky' cheese, tortillas and toast and jam, along with fruit, juice and coffee.
Afterwards we hung around the Lodge, working on our photos / travel blogs and simply enjoying the butterflies and birds that seemed to be ever present.
Often we would end up chatting with other guests, sometimes over what birds they had observed or heard as most guests were serious birders - one has to be to be in the Lodge at 6:00 am in the coolness of the morning to want to head out on a two and a half hour tour.
One of the products of the lodge is the production of chocolate. Macaw Kakau makes its own chocolate bars through a combination of different types of cacao, crafted by local artisans, that over time has become internationally recognized. The bar with 60% cacao content and hints of coffee won third prize in the Central American Chocolate Awards back in 2019. We treated ourself to a bar ... delicious.
This afternoon Norm spent some time chatting with Mattieu, originally from France but now living in Grand Cayman. He was supposed to stay on the Caribbean side but a land-side from the heavy rains being experienced on the other side of the mountain forced a change in plans having him stay at Macaw Lodge. Nice fellow.
Again we saw a number of birds including a Pale-billed woodpecker, Rufescent Tiger Heron, Scarlet-rumped Tanager, Black-bibbed Cuckooshrike, a Hawk, a Kingfisher, a Purple Gallinule, a Black Bellied Whistling Duck and hummingbirds among others. One might think we were birders but relative to the others ... not so much.
Dinner again was simple but delicious with soup, hamburgesas for Norm and quinoa for Gayle, along with yellow rice and a nice selection of vegetables. Dessert was a piece of silky smooth creme caramel.
Tonight, after dinner we went on the 1 1/2 hour Night Tour, led by Michael, along with a couple from Florida. No snakes to be found / seen we primarily saw toads and frogs, along with a gecko, a centipede, a few crickets and a hard to spot bird - the Common Pauraque. Of note was finding a Glass frog - a unique amphibian known for their translucent skin, that allows their internal organs to be visible. Shortly after Michael spotted a red-eyed tree frog with its vivid green body and blue and yellow stripes along its sides with bright red or orange feet. Its large, bulging red eyes are a distinctive feature, that serves as a defense mechanism against predators through a behaviour known as 'startle colouration.' A very worthwhile experience.
Afterwards it was back up to our cabina and soon asleep.
Our Night Tour started with a selection of toads and frogs.
February 07, 2026 - San Jose to Carara (Macaw Lodge)
Wow. Quite the swing in temperatures. It was 21 C when we awoke in San Jose but then warmed up during the day as we drove to the coast, reaching 36 C in Tarcoles. However as we drove inland up the mountain the temperatures dropped to 30 C by the time we reached Macaw Lodge. Perhaps somewhat surprising the highest point in Costa Rica is Cerro Chirripo at 12,536 ft. Then during the night it really cooled off, so much so that in addition to the Guatemalan bedspreads we both used the blankets provided.
Today was a very chilled, relaxing day. After a long sleep (for Norm from 8:00 pm to 7:00 am) and a count of the bats, who had multiplied from two to eight over night, we wandered down for breakfast at 8:30 am (the latest option). Fresh juice (papaya), chocolate filled crepes, yoghurt with nuts, fruit, eggs, cheese and toast filled us up quite nicely.
Most of the rest of the day was spent searching out / admiring the birds and flowers, as did the other guests, many with gigantic cameras. While I have a 300 mm telephoto lens that does a decent job I am a beginner vis-a-vis a number of these other photographers. I can only imagine some of the images they are able to capture.
We enjoyed a nice long chat with Raquel, who returns to her home on weekends to give other workers here at the lodge a break. In part it is due to her English skills (she is studying to be a civil engineer in San Jose) but it is also clear she has a special connection to this place. We asked her about school here in the area. She told us she was one of seven students in her youth, but now there are only three. Of course we provided beanies / buddies for her to give the children (photos to follow in a few days / next weekend after delivered).
Other guests are from a variety of places - two sets of couples from England, a couple from France (Paris), a French fellow from the Grand Caymens among others. There were six couples for dinner tonight that again started with a soup - this time a tasty apple-carrot, with the excellent herb bread. Most guests had chicken with tamarind sauce but Gayle being a vegetarian she had a lentil broth with spinach. Norm too had the lentils (very good) but with chicken, accompanied by yellow rice and a mix of yellow squash, zucchini and cucumber. Dessert was a piece of corn bread with blackberry jam. Both tasty and just the right amount of food,
Dinner finished 7:15 pm ish after which we again headed back up the hill to our cabina, bringing the day to a close.
Lizbeth, Macaw Lodge's chief chef.
flycather.
Chachalaca.
Feb 06, 2026 - Toronto to San Jose, Costa Rica (Alameda Cariari)
The good news was that there was no further delay with us being boarded by 9:00 pm. From that point the flight was non-eventful with landing at the revised time of 1:35 am. Seeing a passenger being wheeled to the 'disabled' line at the end I followed with my walking stick. As a result we passed through quickly with no extended standing in a lengthy line. However, in spite of Priority luggage tags, our bags were part of the very last to be delivered.
Upon exiting from the scan for fruits and vegetables we found an official taxi stand where we were advised the price to Alameda Cariairi would be $20 US which seemed reasonable (subsequently confirmed by German, the owner of Alamda Cariari). The 10 minute drive was quick given the absence of traffic at 3:00 am. We had arranged for German to meet us to let us in (quite impressed he did so at 3:00 am). He did and we immediately fell asleep.
We were up shortly after 7:00 am as breakfast is only served until 9:00 am. Everything is earlier here in Costa Rica given the early sunrise. We had a choice of three breakfasts - an American, a version with pancakes and the 'Tipico' that includes our favourite Gallo Pinta - rice and beans, along with eggs, cheese (the Costa Rican squeaky version) and plantains, along with juice and a fruit plate. Of course we both had the Tipico.
After breakfast we had a quick nap, packed and headed off to our car rental company where we completed the paperwork and were finally off near noon.
.
All was good until we got to Bijagual. With no signage to Macaw Lodge we stayed on the main road that soon turned to gravel. True it was a pretty drive but after six kms or so we encountered a large sign that indicated Macaw Lodge was behind us 12 plus kms. So turn around and back to Bijagual where we found the right (still gravel of course) road for another six plus kms. The road was not awful but one always had to be aware of pot-holes and raised rocks. Eventually we were successful in finding the lodge with first impressions being excellent given the gardens, ponds, and sounds of the insects and birds. We were greeted by Michael who advised our room was somewhat away from the lodge up a bit of a hill. He gave us an option of a room in the lodge, which while very nice was not as isolated as the cabina. Gayle left the decision up to me ... and I decided to take the cabina. I will walk slowly and carefully but it is a nice spot with traditonal Guatemalan bed coverings and beautiful wood everywhere. The deck, with traditional Costa Rican rocking chairs sealed the deal. Sure the walk is a bit of a struggle but so far I have managed.
After settling in we made our way to the lodge where we enjoyed a tasty dinner. It was not particularly busy with only two other couples. The food was simple but very good, well prepared and tasty. We started with a vegetable soup and some excellent lodge-made herb bread. I then had a piece of sea bass (actually surprisingly good as historically I have not particularly liked sea bass) with Gayle having stuffed eggplant, along with smashed potatoes and a nice selection of vegetables. Dessert was a piece of creme caramel flan.
As soon as we were finished it was up to our cabina where I fell asleep at 8:00 pm, and Gayle an hour or so later.
Passports out - finally ready to board an hour and a half delayed.
Our cabin (#9) is also constructed entirely of wood, with quilts are made by the Maya Indians of the Guatemala Atitlan area.
Technically we enjoyed a candlight dinner,.
Wonderful vegetable soup with pieces of delicious herb bread (not shown).
Fresh piineapple juice.
February 05, 2026 - Halifax to Toronto
After the snowstorms the past 10 days we were very grateful the weather has been good the past few and we left Halifax, even after a de-icing, pretty much on time. The flight to Toronto was smooth after which we spent over three hours in the Air Canada lounge, always a nice way to start a trip.
Our flight to San Jose was indicated as 'on-time' until it wasn't. Just as boarding was supposed to start at 6:45 pm for our 7:30 pm flight it was announced that due to a maintenance isssue the flight would be delayed until 9:00 pm, pushing back our scheduled arrival time from 5 minutes after midnight to 1:26 am. As a result, after de-planing, clearing immigration, collecting our luggage and finding transportation to our hotel we now expect not to arrive until 3:00 am ish. It is going to be a long night / early morning.
Again back to Costa Rica - February 05, 2026 to March 04, 2026
We will be staying at a number of new lodgings, along with a couple of old stand-bys (Pacific Edge Eco Lodge ad Jardin de Los Monos):
- 1 night at Alameda Cariari upon arrival in San Jose
- 4 nights at Macaw Lodge, inland from Tarcoles
- 1 night at Villas Rio Mar in Dominical due to a booking issue at Macaw Lodge
- 5 nights at Pacific Edge Eco Lodge near Dominicalito
- 4 nights at Vayu just past Ojochal
- 4 nights at Tiskita Lodge, near the Panama border
- 6 nights at Jardin de Los Monos, Matapalo Beach, and finally
- 2 nights back at Alameda Cariari
