Our memories of Spain 2025:
Yet another great trip to Spain, our 6th since 2017, and that's with Covid. We have a number of wonderful memories, including:
- flamenco at Tabanco El Pasaje, including the tapas and sherry we enjoyed during the performance
- Virginie for getting us a table at the flamenco show
- Semana Santa, including the ornate floats, marching bands and sheer volume of people
- navigating the masses of people trying to return to La Gitanilla during Semana Santa
- our hospitable hosts - special mention to Eric, Eli and Virginie
- momma duck and her brood at Ardea Purpurea
- fresh orange juice at Ardea Purpurea
- a number of our meals at Ardea Purpurea - the serrano ham, lamb shoulder and mushroom risotto
- the nesting storks
- the spring wildflowers
- our super cool room, with Japenese toilet, at La Casa del Consul
- the 'birthday' cava Eric gave us, enjoyed on La Casa del Consul's rooftop terrace
- the surprising enjoyable walkable Cadiz with its narrow streets, neat buildings and balconies
- breakfasts in Cadiz
- enjoying the parks of Cadiz
- street music in Cadiz
- birthday dinner in at La Raiz - jamon Iberico, mushroom croquetas, entrecote de lamb and a nice wine
- all our choice of lodgings - except Pearson's 'homeless' shelter (see below)
- our room, Las Aves, at La Fructuosa with its elevated views over the countryside
- the beautiful white village of Gaucin
- breakfasts at La Fructuosa in its beautiful restaurant
- the hand-written menu, cheese plate and Brits at Azuelta Bar
- sheep taking over a recreation area
- cork trees
- a wonderful dinner at El Muelle de Ariatte, especially Gayle's unique goose egg
- the traditional Cortijo las Piletas, with its views of the hillside and holm oak trees
- the drives through the countryside in all directions from Cortijo las Piletas
- Cortijo las Piletas' Food Corner and our indoor 'picnic'
- in general the weather being somewhat cooler and cloudier than expected
- missing our connecting flight in Lisbon
- spending the night in Pearson's 'homeless' area - no one said these were only 'good' memories
Expenses (based on average exchange rate 1 euro = $1.5649 Cdn):
Here are the costs of our 15 day trip:
$ 2,447 airfare to / from Spain; seat selection (excluding the $4,074 for two one way tickets home)
$ 3,471 lodging ($232 Cdn $ per night)
$ 1,511 food ($101 Cdn $ per day for dinner etc. including wine; breakfasts are included in lodging)
$ 819 vehicle ($532 or $38 per day for the vehicle; fuel of $196; and parking of $91)
$ 0 souvenirs
$ 55 entrance - Flamenco show
$ 48 miscellaneous - primarily tips
$ 8,351 for 15 days
The total cost excluding airfare and souvenirs (i.e. lodging, food, entrances, vehicle and miscellaneous) was $5,904 or $394 per day, with lower lodging and food costs compared to recent trips.
Following are the average costs of this and our five previous trips to Spain.
Total Lodging Food Vehicle
2017 $ 408 160 euros / $ 250 63 euros / $ 93 $ 28
2018 $ 380 146 euros / $ 229 60 euros / $ 93 $ 26
2019 $ 375 146 euros / $ 227 68 euros / $104 $ 22
2023 $ 423 180 euros / $ 266 79 euros / $115 $ 28
2024 $ 527 204 euros / $ 300 77 euros / $113 $ 68
2025 $ 394 148 euros / $ 232 64 euros / $101 $ 55
Costs this trip were somewhat less than the past couple. Our lodgings, with which we were very happy, were not as expensive as recent trips, especially compared to the big bucks, er euros we spent in Cordoba and Toledo in 2024. Our food costs - essentially dinner with wine - were somewhat less but would have been similar had we not essentially skipped two dinners at the end of the trip. Otherwise costs have been consistent over the years, increasing more or less with inflation. The one spike is the huge increase in car rental in 2024. The cost did include a one-way charge although that does not account for a significant portion of the increase.
Our lodging ranged from a low of 122 euros to a high of 186 euros. All except Casa del Consul included good breakfasts.
Here is where we stayed, the amount we paid (in euros) and links to their websites.
186 euros Andrea Purpurea Villamanrique www.ardeapurpurea.com
138 euros* Casa del Consul Cadiz www.lacasadelconsul.com
122 euros La Fructuosa Gaucin www.lafructuosa.com
139 euros Cortijo las Piletas Ronda www.cortijolaspiletas.com
158 euros La Gitanilla Jerez de la Frontera www.lagitanilla.com
141 euros Vertice Hotels Seville www.verticehotels.com
0 euros Pearson airport Toronto
* no breakfast
April 16 - Seville to Lisbon to Toronto
April 17 - Toronto to Halifax
Today was supposed to be easy. Catch our TAP (Air Portugal) flight from Sevilla to Lisbon, where we were to connect to our Air Canada flight to Toronto and then to a flight to Halifax.
All started well with us leaving the hotel as scheduled, easily filled up with fuel and then arrived at the airport with tons of time.
However after checking in we found out our flight was delayed an hour due to a delayed arrival of the inbound flight from Lisbon. Even with this hour delay we would likely have been fine but upon arriving in Lisbon we sat on the tarmac for over half an hour, resulting in us not arriving to the gate until 11:50 am, only an hour before our 12:50 pm flight.
Where we were on two separate tickets we needed to pick up our luggage, drop it off and then get to our gate.
While it bites to spend that to buy the two tickets we have to remember how much we have saved over all the years by purchasing the less expensive non-cancellable; non-changeable tickets. I am convinced we are still thousands ahead.
The TAP flight was late as well, arriving in Toronto at 10:00 pm with it being after 11:00 by the time we de-planed, cleared customs and got our luggage. With boarding for Halifax at 5:40 am for a 6:15 am flight there was no point in getting a hotel for only a few hours. So we went to Pearson's 'homeless' area, found a couple of contoured, albeit hard, chairs and tried to at least get some shut eye.
Not exactly the way we wanted to end the trip but one has to accept the risks of travelling. Needless to say we were happy to finally get home in the morning.
April 15, 2025 - Jerez de la Frontera to Seville (Vertice Hotel)
As we went to bed the skies opened up with a downpour of rain, a real shame for the hundreds of thousands who would have been out on the streets in that the final procession was not scheduled to reach the cathedral until after midnight.
We woke to another nice breakfast, this including a Spanish tortilla, a nice and typical dish. After packing we chatted with Virginie, again letting her know of our desire to see some flamenco. She got on the phone and managed to secure us a table at Tabanco el Pasaje, the flamenco venue that was closed last night and today had just one afternoon show.
After leaving and driving over cobbled streets past a number of sherry bodegas we made our way to the central Plaza del Arenal where we parked underground. Having some time before the 2:00 pm show we enjoyed the nice weather sitting on a bench in the plaza, watching people pass by.
Jerez is fondly known as the home of flamenco, often described as "the true heartbeat of flamenco". Some aficionados say the flamenco in Jerez lacks the sophistication of flamenco in Seville or Madrid while others say it is exactly that - the festive and fun form of flamenco called 'la buleria' that makes it so special.
A Museum Flamenco has long been in the works, now schedule not to open until 2026.
A typical flamenco ensemble includes dance (baile), song (cante), guitar playing (toque), and hand clapping (palmas). Each works magically together to produce one of Spain’s most passionate and dramatic art forms.
During the flamenco festival, the Jerezanos, as well as visitors live, eat and breathe flamenco 24 hours a day with both casual performances in cafes and bars and more formal shows at various venues.
El Tabanco (or bar) el Pasaje is the oldest winery in Jerez. It was inaugurated by its first owner, don Jose Gonzalez Navarro on December 16, 1925.
From Tabanco El Pasaje's website
"Wine, gastronomy, flamenco and history are elements that define Tabanco El Pasaje, its origin and its essence. Ingredients that combine perfectly in what is recognized as the oldest tabanco in Jerez, where sherry is served directly from the cask , and it is possible to enjoy flamenco every day of the year.
Located in a strategic place a stone's throw from one of the main arteries of the historic centre, Calle Larga and flanked by buildings of reference such as the Market, Post Office, Villamarta Theatre or the Gallo Azul, the Tabanco El Pasaje was founded in 1925 after having served other purposes throughout its history before wine dispensing.
The name 'El Pasaje' is due to the access through two key streets in the city centre - Sana Maria and Mesones.
Currently it preserves the foundational casks from which the seven styles of sherry - Fino, Palo Cortado, Oloroso, Manzanilla, Cream, Pedro Ximenex and Amontillado, all primarily made from the Palomino grape from the El Maestro Sierra wineries. The wines are paired with products from the Sierra and coast of Cadiz such as sausage, cheese, salted fish and tuna.
In addition El Pasaje provides a glimpse into the history of Jerez with its decoration - carafes, posters and all kinds of winery utensils providing an immersion into the tradition of wines and their aging."
When we entered El Pasaje it was absolutely packed, shoulder to shoulder at the bar. We eventually found the owner, explaining that Virginie had called to book us a table. It was fortunate she did as otherwise we would have been with the many others standing behind. With the table brought us the opportunity to sample a number of tapas - cheese, meats, artichokes, tortilla and a flat bread with pork rinds accompanied by a bottle of our choice of sherry. The food was provided in stages both before and during the performance. Beyond the benefit of seats (rather than standing) our location allowed for better photos and videos, some of which are below. The show, including the food was 35 euros each.
The performance was only a bit less than an hour, with a short break and costume change for the bailaora (the female dancer). We thoroughly enjoyed the venue and show, very glad we hung around and waited to attend rather than just leaving for Seville. And a special shout out to Virginie for getting us a table.
After the flamenco finished we returned to Plaza del Arenal, figured out how to pay for our parking, and headed out of the city for the hour drive to Seville. We easily found our hotel on the outskirts, convenient for the short ride to the airport tomorrow morning. Having had tapas mid-afternoon at the flamenco performance there was no need for dinner. Rather we packed for our departure.
Tabanco El Pasaje's 'Letter', or menu.
Right: enjoying cheese, artichokes, meat and sherry before the show starts.
Below: in addition to the many photos on the walls the Tabanco there were a number of bull-fighting posters - great atmosphere.
Before leaving Cortijo las Piletas we had a nice chat with Eli about her (and Pablo's) life at the cortijo. This is certainly our type of place, an excellent choice. A nice room (with a tub), an outdoor terrace space and beautiful views across the pool to the hills dotted with oak trees. Very tranquil. In the past dinner was served at the cortijo but no longer. In its place the Food Corner was created, a creative idea and great service to guests with a nice selection of cold (gazpacho, cheese and meat) options as well as microwavable meals. We love the 'out in the country' open space feel. Las Piletas has that along with the rural Spain feeling of a cortijo with its comfortable lounge and numerous outdoor courtyards and seating areas. Convenient to, but not in, Ronda, for us this was a perfect choice - a 10 out of 10!
We encountered a few challenges meeting up with Virginia but again it all worked out. Our room on the top (second) floor, with direct access to the terrace and views of the Cathedral is nice. Virginia explained the week's Semana Santa processions and the location of a flamenco Tabanca (club). Unfortunately with Semana Santa the evening performances were cancelled leaving us out of luck today. Perhaps tomorrow before we leave.
Jerez de la Frontera (or simply Jerez or Xeres) - the 'J' is pronounced as an 'H' as in 'Hair - ez' is located on the Campina de Jerez, an inland lo-land plain crossed by the Guadalete River. Winegrowing has long been the main driver of the economy of Jerez. During the 19th century the local sherry was overwhelmingly produced for export, particularly to the British market. The sherry houses continue to dominate the city.
Although many Spaniards do we did not plan our trip, nor our stay in Jerez de la Frontera around Semana Santa / Holy Week. While we are not religious the processions were fascinating and the crowds huge, although we were told they get larger as the week moves along. Holy Week commemorates the seven days leading up to Easter, being very revered and moving for locals and visitors alike.
A bit about Semana Santa, which is an incredibly important religious holiday in Spain. However the week also plays a significant role in the history and cultural identify of the country. The week is best known for the processions of extravagant floats. Between 20 and 40 'costaleros' or 'bearers' work together to carry the large floats that can weigh up to a ton. No trailers here. It is a great honour to be a costalero and to carry one of the impressive floats, aka a paso. Each paso has intricate sculptures of Jesus and Mother Mary that depict scenes from the story of Christ and carry incense and flowers. Many date back to the 16th century, being treasured cultural relics.
Semana Santa celebrations date back to medieval times - to the 16th century when the Catholic Church decided believers should express their appreciation for the story of Christ through outward displays of devotion. Since then townspeople have participated in the various processions and vigils that have continued to today. Based on what we saw there is no risk of the tradition diminishing. Despite being one of Spain's oldest festivals it is one of its most important holidays. Many businesses and restaurants close as families head to their villages to enjoy a week of eating, resting, remembering and celebrating.
People travel from all over the world to experience Holy Week in Spain. In Seville the celebrations declared a 'Fiesta of International Tourist Interest' brings in over one million visitors each year. Although the week is great for tourism many shops, restaurants and businesses close as priority is provided to their employees to participate in the celebrations. We experienced this with the cancellation of the evening Flamenco performances at El Pasaje.
The processions are comprised of Mujeres de la Mantilla - women in veils, and Nazarenos - the men of Nazareth. While we read that often the Mujeres de la Mantilla will wear somber black clothing and lace head coverings we did not experience such dress. The Nazarenos, a brotherhood group, lead the processions in silence, often without shoes, wearing large capes and hoods to cover their faces. Customarily the Nazarenos wear colours belonging to the brotherhood and carry candles and lanterns.
While we were out for perhaps six hours some celebrations can last up to 16 hours. Andalusia is home to the most significant celebrations with Seville, Malaga, Granada and Cordoba having some of the most elaborate displays of art and the biggest celebrations. Jerez de la Frontera has the longest official route in Spain at 1.3 km (0.81 mi). During the experience residents adorn the outside of their homes with beautiful decorations.
The traditional Semana Santa dessert is the Torrijas, a dessert similar to French toast that is a delicacy enjoyed by Spanish families throughout the country.
The Spanish version transforms day-old bread into a sweet honey, citrus, and cinnamon-scented treat. Thick slices of day-old bread are soaked in sweetened milk until soft and custardy, then flavored with cinnamon and citrus before being fried in extra virgin olive oil (rather than butter) for a slightly lighter brunch, dessert, or afternoon indulgence.
Dating from the 1600s the torrijas were given to new mothers to help with their recovery after child-birth (some speculate due to meat shortages while others claim the torrijas are simply easier to digest) they continued to be a popular staple during the 20th century. Their popularity continues today in the taverns of Madrid.
Regrettably we were unaware of this traditional Semana Santa specialty and as a result did not sample any.
After it passed we continued on our way, stopping for a rest in the Plaza where we watched the locals and others in dress with their conical 'hats' trying to meet up with other members of their brotherhood. We then wandered past the seating set up for the procession to find Tabanca El Pasaje, where we were hoping to take in a flamenco performance tonight. But with Semana Santa nearby the evening performances were cancelled - a shame but totally understandable.
We then doubled back to the main route where there were chairs available in small corrals. We 'borrowed' one expecting to have to leave at some point in time but where fortunate that the area we found the seat never filled up leaving me the opportunity to watch without standing throughout.
Each day of the week there are four to seven Hermandades, each representing a temple, that proceed through the streets of Jerez de la Frontera to the Cathedral. A Santa Hermandad or 'holy brotherhood' was a type of military peacekeeping association of armed individuals, which became characteristic of municipal life in medieval Spain, especially in Castile, during the 13th through 15th centuries. Modern hermandades in Spain, some of which evolved from medieval origins, are now for the most part religious.
First with their white cones (visually reminding us of the Klu Klux Klan but predating that organization by centuries) were those of La Sed from the Parroquia San Miguel, then followed by a number of others. Each procession included men and women at the front, with only eyes peeking out of slits in their conical hats. Children / young teens walked amongst, some of whom re-lit candles. Then came the large ornate float carried by the many costaleros and finally the marching band. Each procession was scheduled to take six to seven hours from the start to the Cathedral.
The processions were watched / enjoyed by many - young and old alike with many families gathered. What we didn't notice were many foreigners. No doubt there were lots of Spaniards visiting Jerez de la Frontera but there were no obvious attendees from other countries We heard virtually no English spoken. It was quite the spectacle that we were very happy we had the opportunity to attend.
Returning to La Gitanilla turned out to be quite a challenge as streets were often blocked as the processions worked their way through. Periodically (perhaps every 20 to 30 minutes) the Policia would open the gates to allow pedestrians through but there was a lot of standing and waiting. We thought of stopping for something to eat but with all the crowds did not find an appropriate place. Unfortunately as we got further from the centre and closer to La Gitanilla there were fewer and fewer food options. By the time we did finally return we were exhausted, so much so that neither of us had any desire to go out in search of food. Rather we grabbed a few things (a yoghurt, coke, apple and bread sticks) from the honesty bar. Not exactly the meal we were expecting as our trip was winding down but we would not have traded a nice meal (after having many during the trip) with the experience of Semana Santa.
To the right Eli, and then with Pablo.
Relaxing between processions.
Our second consecutive night of less than five star dining.
As we worked our way back through the crowds to La Gitanlla the restaurants in the midst of the chaos didn't work for us.
Unfortunately as we got closer to our place there was nothing, although when we left the next morning we noted a few restaurants had we gone a bit further.
We were so exhausted neither of us felt like going out in search of a place to eat, ending up getting something from the honesty bar - dinner of coke, an apple and bread sticks.
April 13, 2025 - Ronda (Cortijo las Piletas)
Cortijo las Piletas is a peaceful country hotel, far away from the hustle and bustle of any big city and close to nature. It is green sustainable, comfortable, and elegant, where getting to know Andalucia (and especially the Serranía de Ronda) turns out to be an authentic and enjoyable experience. The hotel is located 12 km from Ronda (on the Ronda-Sevilla road) and within the boundaries of the Natural Park of Grazalema.
Owned by Pablo y Elisenda, originally from Ronda, they decided to build their dream by leaving their jobs in the big city and managing the cortijo. Here they have raised their two daughters, Elisenda and Elvira.
One feels very welcome when on their website in large print we read "Our House is Your House".
Today's afternoon drive took us again in a counter-clockwise circle towards La Indiana, north then west and back through the small village of Montecorto.
Although it was obvious it was raining to the south we managed to escape it. We enjoyed a wonderful drive through some rolling countryside of expansive fields dotted with holm oak trees, surrounded by mountains.
For the most part there was little to see beyond the gorgeous countryside, vibrant with green grass from the rains of March.
The area is dotted with a number of vineyards the most well known appearing to be Bodegas Ramon-Paul.
After our short but enjoyable drive we returned to the cortijo. Being Sunday with few restaurants open in the evening in the nearby villages / towns we decided to take advantage of the FOOD CORNER and eat in.
"This is a wonderful service that our guests enjoy at any time day or night: we offer a useful Mini-market and a FOOD CORNER with local cheeses, sausages and ham, fruit and vegetables and a nice selection of ready-to-heat meals with fish, meat and vegetarian options always giving priority to local and organic. Enjoy high quality table linen, fine porcelain dinnerware, candle lights and good music in our dinning room full of natural light or eat “al fresco” in the spectacular patio sharing intimate sunsets; you will find your perfect corner to feel at home after visiting Ronda, Grazalema, Setenil or after a beautiful walk in the Natural Park. A real treat. If you prefer to bring your own food, please feel free, our home is your home and we love to see you enjoying it"
While it would have been nice to 'picnic' outside the cool weather and threatening skies, and a few drops of rain had us retreat to our room. We had half a bottle of wine from last night, accompanied by an actually very good gazpacho, some chorizo sausage, cheese, olives and bread / crackers. There was no lack of choice, including a number of hot meals (to be microwaved) - see the menu below. What a great concept; it worked out very well for us.
It a bit felt like being in Italy with the selection of cakes for breakfast.
A cortijo with a small castle on the hill. Bodegas Ramon-Paul.
With the morning weather not co-operating, including ominous skies indicating a likelihood of rain we accepted today would be a day to enjoy the Cortijo. In fact it was cold enough in the morning that a fire was roaring in the lounge.
We were looking forward to dinner, having made a reservation at El Muelle de Arriate, a restaurant half an hour away at which we ate in 2019 upon the recommendation of Hans and Miranda. We did not hesitate to return to this interesting restaurant with excellent food including many unique options for Gayle.
Breakfast was very good. Beyond hard boiled eggs there were no fried or scrambled eggs but everything else one would expect including a very nice selection of meats, including Serrano ham, and cheese. Coffee, fresh orange juice, fruit, cakes, cereal, bread, jams - they had it all.
By mid-afternoon the weather somewhat cleared, enough that we decided to take a drive through the area. We headed south (7 km) to the town of Montejaque passing moss covered trees, wide open spaces dotted with holm oaks, and of course a flock of sheep and the accompanying two sheep dogs. There were a number of interesting / massive rock formations all of which made for an interesting drive.
We went into the 'centre' of Montejaque (a pretty town with a nice central square with consistent yellow trimmed buildings) to search out a restaurant for tomorrow. However being Sunday most were closed and those that weren't were only open in the afternoon.
We continued on to Benojan where we turned north-east, again driving through some pretty countryside. It was suggested we might consider taking the train through the area, being a nice way to spend some time. We seriously considered doing so but the schedules (perhaps because tomorrow is Sunday) just didn't work. Perhaps another time.
Completing our counter-clockwise route we approached but bypassed Ronda, a popular tourist municipality of 35,000 dominated by a dramatic rock face and gorge that carries the Guadalevin River.
Ronda, where we stayed at the Parador perched on the cliff, was the first place we stayed in Spain when we first visited in 2001.
"In summer the spacious terrace provides stunning views across the Llano de la Cruz valley toward the Sierra de Grazalema mountains. Homemade food can be enjoyed by the trackside, greeted by the driver of the last train of the day. In winter, enjoy a cup of coffee and a slice of homemade cake inside by the wood-burning fireplace. Then, at midday, enjoy a hearty stew to recharge after a long hike. In the evening, enjoy a cozy dinner with family or friends."
We were warmly greeted by Frank. The restaurant was not particularly busy which gave us opportunity to chat. Gayle started with a glass of Cava while we ordered a bottle of Baron de Ley Rioja, half of which we took back to the Cortijo given we were driving. Norm started with a flavourful Crema de Pescada con Langostinos, Mejillones y Mariscos / a fish soup with prawns, mussels and shellfish. Excellent. For our main courses Norm had the Jarrete de Cordero con Patatas y Verduras / Lamb shank with potatoes and vegetables. Norm can never go wrong with lamb shank. Gayle had a most interesting dish - not on the formal menu - but available tonight - a Goose egg over marinated potatoes, oyster mushrooms with truffle sauce and peppers. Interestingly presented it was an excellent choice, very much enjoyed. For dessert we had the Crema de Limon con Chocolate Blanco / Lemon curd with white chocolate, adorned with a pansy - light and delicious.
Throughout the meal we were served with a smile by Angel. Later in the evening - perhaps 9:30 pm or so - two other sets of guests arrived, each with young children. One had twins only a few months old, who slept throughout, and the other had three children - two in their teens and the other one being perhaps two. Very well behaved, quite the difference from the youngsters at Ardea Purpurea.
The drive back, although in the dark, was quite easy. We slept well after a very enjoyable meal. Gracias Frank and Angel!
Here we have purpletop verbana, yellow bee orchid and a few poppies amongst black mustard.
The 'centre' of Montejaque - the Plaza de la Constitucion.
The town square of Montejaque with lots of people out in spite of the less than ideal weather and a neat fountain.
Frank the owner, Angel the server and Frank and Norm chatting.
Very happy after dinner.
With our stay in Gaucin having come to an end we are off today towards Ronda and our next stop at Cortijo las Piletas, but not before a final breakfast.
We were impressed with Gaucin - a pretty white village in the mountains. There are a number of nice restaurants and certainly our lodging was excellent. A very worthwhile stop if in the area.
We considered a number of routes but with the less than ideal weather we started heading north. However rather than continuing directly towards Ronda we did turn west through the hills of the area, passing through some pretty countryside and cork forests.
We eventually made our way to Ubrique, a compact but large for the area white village nestled in amongst the mountains. The drive was very picturesque with numerous sheep out and about, including a flock that overtook a recreation area.
Along the way we passed through the village of Villaluenga del Rosario, home of the payoyo cheese and the Festival de 'ueso'.
Unfortunately the cortijo no longer serves dinner on a regular basis. They did in years past and still do on special occaisions but most nights not. However they have a 'mini-store' where one can buy a number of items (more on that in couple of days). There is a Venta just down the road where we chose to have dinner. It was ok but in retrospect we should have searched harder for a bit nicer place. That said after a day of traveling it was close and convenient, making it quite appealing. Gayle started with the Sopa de Esparragos (asparagus soup) which was a weird colour and didn't provide the flavour of asparagus. Not great. Norm had a very tasty Gazpacho Andaluz (a cold tomato soup in the Andalusian style). Gayle then went with the simple Macarrones con tomate (macaroni in a tomato sauce) - her serving being enough to feed a family of four. Upon seeing the menu Norm knew immediately he was going to have the Chuleta de cordero (grilled lamb chops). A very good choice.
We returned to the cortijo and called it a night.
Our drive took us through a cork forest. Cork trees are typically harvested / stripped every 9 to 12 years after their initial harvest at around 25 years old. The bark is removed, leaving the inner layer intact to allow for regrowth. This process is repeated, with the bark becoming increasingly suitable for wine stoppers with each subsequent harvest.
Portugal is the primary supplier of cork, with Spain being next,
folllowed by France and Italy.
With the weather not cooperating today (cool, cloudy with a few scattered showers) and a really nice room in a nice lodging we spent the entire day in Gaucin. Normally we would have taken a drive through the countryside but where it didn't seem we would get much out of doing so we decided to enjoy what we had.
Breakfast was again delicious during which we met a couple from San Francisco - Tom and Rosemary. They too have been to Spain a number of times and had returned to Gaucin where they had been once before. We enjoyed a nice chat (as well tomorrow morning) re our travels and the political situation in the US. Nice couple.
We're not sure where the day went after that. Most was spent in our room working on our blogs, catching up on news and responding to emails. Late afternoon we went out for a short walk around town although there was not much more to see than we saw yesterday.
The restaurant we wanted to go to was full so we made an online reservation at another - Azulete. Although we received a confirmation of our reservation we were very surprised to find the restaurant closed when we arrived. Terrible. The downstairs bar was open so we popped in. The bartender was apologetic and very nice. He provided us with a (small) hand-written menu. We decided to stay and have a copa de vino and a Cava along with the 'special' butter whipped with garlic and paprika and the cheese plate, which was excellent. While enjoying our wine and food a group of loud and rowdy (but in a good way) Brits dropped in. As is often the case when others find out we are from Canada there are so many complements about how wonderful Canada is and how much people want to visit. It was nice to see people having so much fun.
Having enjoyed our meal at La Fructuosa last night we decided to wander back and have a dish each. Gayle chose the Ensalada de rucula, queso de cabra, and fruitos secos, i.e. the rocket salad, goat cheese and dried fruits. Very attractively presented it was a great choice. Norm having fond memories of the oxtail served at Cortijo El Guarda ordered the Robo de toro con pure de boniato / oxtail with sweet potato puree. Exactly as remembered the oxtail literally falls off the bone. Very typically Spanish.
Although very disappointed the restaurant was not open (who confirms a reservation that day and then is not open?) the evening turned out quite well. The bar drinks and food were somewhat pricey but then we expected that in a bar. But they were good and the lively Brits made for a fun time. Returning to La Fructuosa was a good decision as we each enjoyed a nice dish, another glass of cava and wine, and had only two flights of stairs to climb to return to our room.
Left - the creative butter infuised with garlic and sweet paprika.
Below - the Brits are coming; the Brits are coming ... no the Brits are here!
Today was a quiet day in Gaucin, starting with a wonderful breakfast in a beautiful restaurant. There was fresh orange juice, great coffee, a fresh croissant, nice meats and cheeses. cereal, lots of fruit, nice bread with jam, a selection of cakes and eggs if one wished. One very nice thing about breakfast here is that it continues to 11:00 am - appreciated as we are not early risers.
Our room and the views from it here at La Fructuosa are top notch. Tiled rooves, flowers and expansive vistas across the valley to the sea (apparently at least on a clear day).
During the afternoon we took a stroll through the village, noticing signage for narrowing streets - not for traffic calming but rather bull containment as preparations had started for the annual 'Toro de Cuerda' held on Easter Sunday, although festivities start on the Saturday with events focused on the children. Below, in the photos is an extensive description of the Toro de Cuerda.
Although it was still somewhat cool - high teens, there were a few families having lunch on the outdoor terrace. Some of these Spanish are quite tough.
Gaucin is a beautiful mountain village of 1,592 inhabitants (2024), a number of which are ex-pats. It is wonderful to walk through with twisting one-way streets, lined with white-washed buildings. Even with my knees it only takes more or less an hour to see most of the village.
For dinner tonight we ate at La Fructuosa's restaurant, where we had had breakfast in the morning. Gayle started with a glass of Cava (that she very much liked) while Norm had a glass of rose wine (Ramon Bilbao 2021). As a starter / amuse bouche we were offered some very thinly sliced marinated cucumbers. We then ordered the baked goat cheese with piquitto pepper and mango jam. However while waiting Norm saw many with an Alcachofas (artichoke) con jamon (with ham) and couldn't resist ordering one. Decent but not as good as it looked. For her main course Gayle had the Risotto with shiitake mushrooms and payoyo cheese, a local cheese made from the milk of Payoyo goats and Merina grazalema sheep of Villaluenga del Rosario (home of the festival de 'ueso' (inside joke)) and other areas of the Sierra de Grazalema. Payoyo is the the name of those from Villaluenga del Rosario. Norm had the duck magret with caramelized apple and red fruit sauce. Both dishes were excellent. Tonight we again had dessert - for Norm the Tartado de queso con fruits rojas (cheese cake with red fruits). The cheese cake was good although Norm is still searching for the red fruits Norm and a scoop of cinnamon ice cream for Gayle.
It was a short walk up two flights to our room..
The following taken from ' Visit Gaucin' website.
The festival consists of running a bull tied by the horns through the streets of the town.
The run is directed by those with proven experience and it is they who are charged with animating the animal by waving their capes (performing capotazos) and handling the rope.
Although increasingly controversial, the Cuerda remains a popular festival and many of its supporters see themselves as guardians of a cultural treasure that must be preserved. Among aficionados the bull is respected and its mistreatment is considered an act of cowardice. Bragging in front of the bull is not rewarded and at no time is physical suffering of the bull be sought or allowed.
In Gaucin the festival begins on Easter Saturday when the officials of the “comisión del toro” and a large number of fans go to the ranch to witness the collection of the bulls and to accompany them on their journey to the village. The same Saturday an event is held for the children of the village in which a fictitious bull is run through the streets of Gaucín and in the early evening there is a “pre toro party” for all to enjoy.
On Easter Sunday, in the place known as the “Carrera”, the first bull is released at 10:30 in the morning and the president of the Commission announces the beginning of the festival by means of a rocket. There are normally three runs each with a different bull making the festival is an all day event.
For most Gaucineños, this festival is of great importance and provokes much passion and emotion, not least because it involves the reunion with friends and relatives that years ago left Gaucín as emigrants. It is very common to hear them bid farewell at the end of the weekend with the phrase “Nos vemos pá el toro” – we will see each other at the Toro!
While we were in Gaucin preparations were taking place for the 'Toro de Cuerda' or roped bull run, an event celebrated in Gaucin each Easter Sunday, the second most loved festival in Gaucin, after September's Santo Nino.
Although dating back centuries the 'Toro de Cuerda' is now celebrated in less than a hundred towns across Spain. Each town's festival is different with Gaucin's taking on some religious significance, always taking place at the end of Holy Week.
Photo below taken from ' Visit Gaucin' website.
restaurante associated with the hotel at which we were staying.
After three nights it was time to move on after enjoying our time at the Counsul's House owned by Vitorre and Eric. Their home is certainly unique and artistic, having achieved their goal of creating a welcoming atmosphere where guests can relax and enjoy their stay. Beyond our beautiful apartment the highlight of the house is the 'wild, aromatic and charming terrace with beautiful views of the city, the wonderful gardens in front of the house, the pier and the Bay Bridge.
One of the unique aspects of the home is the existence of a well, apparently one of only five in Cadiz. The well dates back from when the location was used by the military.
Our route took us south-east from Cadiz generally inland until reachng Tarifa where we traveled along the coast with views of beaches and the Strait of Gibralter, which we could see from our drive.
After passing by Algeciras we turned inland through first rolling hills and then more mountainous terrain until reaching the mountain white village of Gaucin.
For breakfast we stopped at a small roadside 'Venta'. In Spain, a 'venta' is a roadside inn, often isolated, that serves as a stop for travelers. They can be considered similar to inns, but are typically found on rural roads or in less populated areas, unlike traditional inns (mesones or posadas) which are closer to towns and villages. We each had a coffee, a tortilla and Norm a tapas of toro (beef).
Gaucin, located in the west of the province of Malaga is one of the towns making up the Serrania de Ronda region. The area includes a varied landscape of cork oaks, holm oaks and pine groves along with chestnut and wild olive trees.
The town is located below the Aguila Castle, of great strategic importance along with Gibralter in forming the defence of the south.
The approach from the south-west is breath-taking as the whitewashed walls of virtuallly every building stands out as the most noticeable feature against the landscape. From in the town, and especially our room the view on a clear day to the coast, Gibralter and Morocco are spectacular.
Gaucin has turned out to be a real ex-pat community with, according to our host, a quarter of the permancent residents now being ex-pats, and as a result the village has a number of excellent restaurants.
We are staying at La Fructuosa, a small boutique hotel with a nice restaurant owned by a French couple, Daniel and Catherine.
However with a number of restaurants closed Monday and Tuesday, for dinner tonight we chose to eat at La Raiz where we were treated excellently by Jonathan. Being my 'birthday' meal I didn't hold back.
One thing we have noticed this trip is the absence of olive oil on one's table - always available if one asks but not present as in the past. Here at La Raiz not only was there olive oil but we both agreed it was particularly good.
Although they were out of our choice of wine Jonathan recommended an Arzuga Crianza 2022 from the Ribeiera Del Duero. An excellent recommendation it was very much enjoyed. I then ordered the Jamon Iberico, from pigs that we were told were fed on chestnuts. I'm not sure I could detect the subtely but the slices, cut a bit thicker than usual, were delicious. Gayle then had a selection of croquetas - mushroom, spinach and zucchini while Norm had the Entrecot de Cordero (lamb) for his main course, both served with padron peppers. Both excellent. Unusually we both had dessert - Gayle the Brownie con Helado (ice cream) and Norm the Crumble with Manzano (apple crumble also with ice cream), of course with a candle.
Interestingly there was another guest having dinner who also was celebrating his birthday today ... what were the odds - I know you could figure it out if you knew how many other guests were present this evening but you get my drift?
To bring the meal to a close Jonathan offered us a liqueur - Gayle chose the Limoncello while Norm the Miura. a wild cherry liqueur from the area around Sevilla.
A short walk returned us to La Fructuosa to end the day.
Enjoying dessert.
April 7, 2025 - Cadiz (La Casa del Consul)
Our second day in Cadiz was similar to our first. Mid morning off we went in search of breakfast. Today we had a place picked out - Cafe de Levante. It turned out to be a great choice - a cozy cafe with character and great coffee which we enjoyed with breakfast sandwiches - cheese for Gayle and Serrano ham for Norm.
We then continued on to the Central Market. Being a Monday there were a limited number of stalls open but those that were had a wonderful selection of fruit, meats, cheese, bread etc. However the fish market was closed, having no doubt done a bustling business on the weekend. .
It was surprisingly busy though with many out and about, including a street musician playing flamenco. A very enjoyable experience.
We then searched out a couple of churros and chocolate places but again being Monday they were closed. So on we went, generally heading back to Casa del Consul, with a couple of stops to people watch, or listen to those playing music in the city's parks.
We eventually found our way back and up to the terrace where we finished the Cava and some wine we had. It was very relaxing to do so looking out over the Plaza de Espana and the cruise ships in the port.
For dinner Eric had made us reservations at 'la candale'. Another winner - a small restaurant, although food was consistently taken outside which was perplexing given the cool temps and the fact there were no tables set up or people eating outside leaving us somewhat confused. Upon entering we noticed bottles of Lolea sangria that we had enjoyed while eating at Lolea - the restaurante in Barcelona. Certainly not Norm's sangria but respectably decent. Norm started with a couple of pork and chicken croquettes. Gayle had the Ensalada de Berenjena Ahumada, Cremosa de Queso y Albatiaco Sobre Sada de Tomate Seco Aciete de Albahara y Anacardo (did we ever mention the Spanish have the longest, most comprehensive names for their dishes?) or Smoked aubergine salad with goat cheese, basil, cashews and dried tomatoes - a unique and excellent choice. Norm had the - wait for it - Presa Iberica a Buja Temperatura, Papas Arrugas Ai Mojo Rojo Brioche y Chimichurri aka Iberian pork meat made in low temperature with potatoes, mojo sauce, chimichurri and brioche bread - also a good choice. For dessert Gayle had the Sorbeta caser do mojito de Fresa, essentially a strawberry mojito sorbet. Very tart and unique, almost a drink.
A slow stroll back to La Casa del Consul brought the day to an end.
Regular fruit. Exotic fruit. Cheese.
A variety of plants on the terrace overlooking the Plaza de Espana.
April 6, 2025 - Cadiz (La Casa del Consul)
Although Eric provided many options we had nothing planned for our time in Cadiz beyond wandering through the narrow streets, relaxing by the parks and enjoying La Casa del Consul's rooftop terrace.
Cádiz, with a population of 114,442 (2021) is an ancient port city in the Andalucia region of southwestern Spain. The home of the Spanish Navy, the port boomed in the 16th-century as a base for exploration and trade. It has more than 100 watchtowers, including the iconic Torre Tavira, which was traditionally used for spotting ships. On the waterfront is the domed, 18th-century Cádiz Cathedral, featuring baroque and neoclassical elements.
Cádiz, Europe's oldest continuously inhabited city, was founded by the Phoenician's, dating back an incredible 3,500 years. Due to its strategic port location, where Christopher Columbus sailed from on voyages to America, Cádiz became an important centre for commercial trade.
Although a number of people spoke highly of Cadiz we were not expecting much. However we were very pleasantly impressed with the old city - it's narrow pedestrian friendly streets; small squares and parks.
La Casa del Consul is located in the north east corner of old Cadiz (the red pin), overlooking the Plaza de Espana, a large park the centre of which is the Monument to the Constitution of 1812. Begun in 1912 the monument took 17 years to complete.
There were tables set up along one side with a number eating so we sat down. We enjoyed quite a decent breakfast of coffee con leche, fresh orange juice and a serrano ham bocadillo (Norm) and an egg and tomato omellete sandwich (Gayle).
We continued to wander aimlessly around before returning to La Casa del Consul where we took our gift of Cava and headed up to the rooftop terrace, a beautiful space filled with plants and flowers / orchids. There is even a pool although it was much too cold to consider.
For dinner Eric booked us into Balandro, a restaurant with both a formal area and a more casual informal bar with stools. We were booked at the bar where the dishes were more tapas style - smaller servings than a full dinner. Gayle started with Tempurade Verduras - an assortment of fresh vegetables in Tempura served with a sweet and sour sauce while Norm began with Raviolis de Carne con Cartillada Iberica - ravioli stuffed with and surrounded by pork sirloin. Gayle followed with Garbonzo con Espinacas - an excellent spinach and chick pea stew. Norm had the Arroz Marinaro con Pescados y Mariscos - a fish and seafood creamy rice with cuttlefish, shrimp and saffron. Decent taste but very light on the seafood. A good choice for dinner. We enjoyed a short walk back to del Consul where we turned in.
With no planned destination we wandered through the narrow streets of Cadiz, looking for a spot for desayuno / breakfast. We eventually came upon a park with tables set up and a restaurant - Mediterraneo across the street. We sat down and enjoyed a nice breakfast.
April 5, 2025 - Villamanrique de la Condesa
to Cadiz (La Casa del Consul)
After four nights it was time to leave Ardea Purpurea. Overall a nice stay the location was very much to our liking. We were especially impressed with the style of hut construction, in which the roofs are handcrafted with 'castañuela', a material collected in the marshes of Donana, reminiscent of the ancient villages of this area of the provinces of Seville, Huelva and Cádiz, or even reminiscent of African Lodges with their enormous timbers, plant roofs, etc. Very impressive indeed.
In addition to the cabinas the main lodge is also impressive. Dinners were on the whole very good while breakfasts, other than the all you want fresh orange juice and good strong coffee, were sadly disappointing. Our daily drives, while perhaps not spectacular were interesting, particularly due to the abundance of birds, especially the storks. And then there was Momma duck and her brood of 11 who brightened each day with their presence.
The drive to our next destination - Cadiz - is more or less two hours.
With no means to cross the Rio Guadilquivar one must drive back to Sevilla before turning south to Cadiz. Mostly flat the drive passed through a number of agricultural areas.
About half way we passed from Sevilla Province into Cadiz Province. It was surprisingly easy to drive into the actual older historical part of the city where we again fairly easily found the parking location suggested to us by Vittore. Located perhaps 300 m from La Casa del Consul we crossed the Plaza de Espagna where we again easily found our lodging.
We had arranged a 5:00 pm meet time so just parked ourselves on a bench adjacent to the park and enjoyed the fine weather.
While waiting a fellow with a Canada hat on passed by. We got chatting and found out Paul, a CA, actually grew up in Halifax before moving to Toronto a number of years ago ... small world.
We were met by Eric - Vittore's partner - who spent nearly two hours with us - telling us about the Casa and all there is to see and do in Cadiz, as well as suggesting and making dinner reservations for us. First impressions of La Casa del Consul are very positive - the building being four stories with a typical Spanish open interior. Eric and Vittore's artwork is something else - photos at a later time. Our room overlooking the park is large and airy with two windows and a high ceiling. Very sophisticated with mood lighting (both behind the bed and in the bathroom) and a sophisticated Japenese toilet. As well there was an oven and a sink providing some opportunity to cook if one wished.
Just around the corner is Almanaque, a restaurant recognized by Michelin. A small and charming restaurant located in a historic building in the old part of Cádiz, next to the park (Plaza de España) where the monument to the Constitution of 1812 is located.
"Chef Juan Carlos Borrell, who always offers wonderful dry rice dishes (with red shrimp and prawns; beef tongue; lamb with chickpeas and beans...) as a tribute to his years working in the Spanish Levant, champions a cuisine that eschews artifice, concentrating on preserving traditional Cádiz recipes and enhancing every flavor as much as possible."
There were three vegetarian options provided to Gayle of which she chose the Coliflor rebozada mantecula con Harissa. Perhaps not the most visually appealing she enjoyed the flavour and spice. Norm went with the Arroz seco de Jurrete da Cordero (Puede contener calda de marisco) - a rice dish with a large lamb shank. Not sure it was worth 32 euros but the lamb was certainly tender and the rice tasty. We accompanied our meal with a Muriel Reserva 2019 - Tempranillo from Rioja.
It was < a one minute walk back to La Casa del Consul where we soon turned in.
The pond, somewhat brown due to all the recent rain, adjacent to the lodge - great for the ducks and birds in the area.
Donana Nature Reserve is
home to the Spanish Lynx. Throughout our drives we encountered signs indicating the potential of lynx crossings with reduced speed limits. in spite of the warnings we did not encouner a lynx.
On previous trips we saw these 'billboards' of bulls in various places throughout Spain, but for the first time we are now seeing a flamenco guitarist.
April 4, 2025 - Villamanrique de la Condesa (Ardea Purpurea) with a drive to Isla Mayor
The weather remains luke-warm at best, having rained through the night, cool and overcast as we awoke.
Some time after 10:00 am we wandered to the lodge for breakfast. Same same and not different. The fresh orange juice is a great way to start followed by good strong coffee con leche. The eggs - fried for Norm and scrambled for Gayle were good, but after that it was the same as previous days - some sliced meats, cheese and tomato, bread that warmed but didn't really toast, and packaged jams and other condiments.
Today we decided to head into the east side of Donana Nature Park - to Isla Mayor, the newest municipality in Seville, following its segregation in 1994 from La Puebla del Río. Previously known as Villafranco del Guadalquivir (the name was changed in 2000) the municipal area is located on land belonging to the Lower Guadalquivir Marshes, part of which is included in the Doñana Environment Natural Park.
It originated between 1920 and 1930 with the colonization of the marsh for the cultivation of rice, the main and almost only source of wealth for the municipality. The surrounding towns have exploited the lands of Villafranco del Guadalquivir for livestock farming for two centuries. The colonization carried out in the Guadalquivir marshes between the 1920s and 1930s for the cultivation of rice gave rise to the creation of this town.
As we were driving towards Isla Mayor we encountered flooding on the road. A vehicle was on the other side with guys hanging around and the car's hood up. We quickly decided we were not going to attemp to drive through. Fortunately another fellow passed by, came to the same conclusion and motioned for us to follow him as he too was headed to Isla Mayor. Sadly we did not take a photo of the flooded road.
As it turned out the drive was circuitous although in doing so it did take us through parts of the Donana Nature Park where we did see a large number of birds and waterfowl. The town of Isla Mayor caught us a bit off guard as we were expecting more nature / interpretivie centres etc. Rather, the town is quite industrial focusing, as mentioned before, on the production of rice. It was an interesting experience and glimpse into the area but had we done a bit more research we would have better understood what the town / area offered.
Because of the detour and time it took we chose not to return via Aznalcazr as originally planned but rather followed the exact same route back to Ardea Purpurea.
We enjoyed another nice dinner, being our last night. Norm repeated the Jamon Iberico de bellota 'media' plate from the first night followed by the Presa iberica de bellota - Iberian pork shoulder blade with migas (Spanish bread crumbs), Padron green peppers and romesco sauce - a traditional Spanish sauce of sun dried tomatoes, roasted red peppers and red wine vinegar that originated from Valls in the province of Tarragona in Catalonia. The fishermen in the area made this sauce to be eaten with fish, with its use since expanded. An excellent dish. Gayle had a very creative and delicious salad - Ensalade crujiente de parmesana y crema de queso parmesana con hoja de roble, pina y tomates confitadoes - a crunchy parmesan salad with parmesan cheese, oak leaf lettuce, pineapple and candied tomatoes. Also excellent. We finished with a scoop of chocolate ice-cream.
Beyond the taste of our meals our dishes have been so attractively presented.
April 3, 2025 - Villamanrique de la Condesa (Ardea Purpurea)
Another pretty miserable day with some heavy rain in the morning and temperatures hovering around 15 C. As expected breakfast was identical to the first day (and we expect will be all future days) which is a tad disappointing. Hardly the 'magnificent' breakfast advertised but the coffee is very good and the fresh orange juice wonderful.
However when one does not start breakfast until well after 10:00 am, finishing after 11:00 am it certainly feels like a good part of the day is behind us. Although it was still overcast with temperature in the high teens we decided to head out for a drive mid afternoon.
We then headed north-west towards Huelva, with a short stop at the Parador and beach in Mazagon. Contnuing on we passed through what must be the strawberry capital of Spain with acres and acres of white covered rows of strawberry plants. We completed our loop on the highway, turning off at Chucena and returning to Villamanrique de la Condesa. In total a drive of 180 +/- kms. While we are glad we did the drive we won't say it was the most scenic drive we have ever been on, with the Golfo de Cadiz rarely in view.
Dinner was beautifully presented although the taste of our choices did not live up to the visual experience. We started with a selection of croquetas - mushroom for Gayle and jamon and gambas for Norm. Gayle then had the Ensalada de Mango y Aquacatras (avocado). Normally served with langostinos (small lobster) Gayle obviously passed on those. Beautiful presentation but lacking in dressing and taste. Norm ordered the Pulpo a la brasa sobra parentier de patata ahumada y patata al horno - a large octopus tentacle on a potato puree with grilled potatoes. Again beautiful to photo but not as flavourful as a smaller grilled tentacle. For dessert we shared a Tarta de la Abuela rellena natillos caseras y crema de chocolate fondant (Grandma's cake stuffed with homemade custard and fondant chocolate cream) - quite nice.
The comarea de Donana has been declared a UNESCO Human Heritage Site and Biosphere Reserve. The Donana Nature Area houses both the Donana National Park and the Donana Nature Park, where wetlands, dunes and pine forests are home to a unique biodiversity of plants and animals with the river Guadalquivir acting as its spinal column. The many bird species that live in the area are a huge attraction.
Norm's pulpo a la brasa with grilled potatoes.
For dessert Grandma's cake stuffed with homemade custard and fondant chocolate creme.
April 2, 2025 - Villamanrique de la Condesa (Ardea Purpurea)
Not surprisingly we slept in ... until 10:00 am. The five hour time change plus minimal sleep on the overnight flight to Lisbon does that. Fortunately breakfast is served here until 11:00 am - very civil.
Breakfast was decent but not exceptional. The coffee con leche (with milk) is excellent as is the fresh squeezed orange juice. There is a large copper pot filled with oranges that one inserts into this machine and voila, fresh squeezed orange juice. Delicious. There is yoghurt and cereal, pastries and fruit, sliced meat and cheese and a basket of bread but no tortilla, no jamon, and no tomato spread to add to toast. Eggs can be ordered.
By the time we finished and returned to our room it was pushing noon. Our Wifi was not working so we waited for the maintenance fellow to see what was wrong with our router. Success. He fixed whatever the problem was and we now have internet.
We also have a family of ducklings - 11 to be exact - along with mom - meandering around the grounds as well as learning how to swim in the pool. They are so cute. Being on the edge of Parque Natural de Donana there are birds everywhere.
Doñana National Park is known for its wetlands, migratory birds, pine forests and shifting coastal dunes. In the park, Palacio del Acebron is a 20th-century palace, home to the national park visitor center. Nearby, El Rocío Hermitage is a religious sanctuary dating from the 13th century. The area was declared protected in 1969, being one of the most important in Andalusia and the largest ecological reserve in Europe. The aquatic and terrestrial ecosystems give it specific characteristics enabling it to host a unique biodiversity witih species such as the endangered Iberian lynx and the imperial eagle. The marsh is a transit, breeding, and wintering ground for thousands of European and African birds making it an ecosystem of extremely high ecological value. The Park was recognized in 1994 by UNESCO on its World Heritage List and a year later by the Council of Europe with its European Diploma for Protected Areas, reflecting the conservation, planning and integrated management of its natural resources.
Unfortunately the weather is not great with temperatures in the mid to high teens but feeling cooler given the intermittent rain. As a result we spent most of the afternoon in our unit. However late afternoon we decided to go out for a short drive to the nearby town of Villamanrique de la Condesa and the surrounding countryside. We were treated to a number of storks and a surprisingly nice sunset.
We then returned to Ardea Purpurea for dinner. We ordered a bottle of our favourite Spanish wine - Muga to enjoy with our meal. Gayle started with the Salmorejo cordobes, a traditional creamy tomato soup originating from Andalusia made from tomato, bread, extra virgin olive oil and garlic. The soup is served cold garnished with diced hard-boiled eggs and normally Iberico ham (although Gayle passed on the ham). For her main course Gayle had the Revuelto de setas y cebolla caramelizada (scrambled eggs with mushrooms and carmalized onions). Revueltos are a common dinner item here in Spain. Norm ordered the Brazuelo de cordero lechal al horno - baked lamb shoulder - accompanied by beets and a potato croquette stuffed with mushrooms absolutely delicious. An excellent meal to end our first full day in Spain.
Left: - Villamanrique's church tower.
Below: The sky behind the palm trees after the sun had set.
March 31-> April 01, 2025
Halifax to Montreal to Lisbon to Seville
to Villamanrique de la Condessa (Ardea Purpurea)
All was good until we went to our gate and there was no plane. Although there was no indication online eventually there was an announcement that due to the fog the inbound flight from London coud not land and had been diverted to Montreal. As a consequence our flight was cancelled. Panic set in. Rather than join the mobs at the gate counter I immediately raced to the nearby Air Canada service counter. Although there was no one there I was first in line. There was another flight to Montreal only an hour later but whether we could get on it we had no idea. Shortly later a couple of agents arrived but even before I could pursue options with one of them he advised me Air Canada had proactively booked us on the 6:00 pm flight. Relief. We were assured our luggage had been redirected to our new flight. We left on time and arrived in Montreal on time as well still leaving us time to enjoy Montreal's Maple Leaf Lounge where we had both food and drink. We will say the Montreal international lounge is far better than Toronto.
The overnight flight was uneventful with an early arrival. But then immigration ... although every booth was open with agents it took one hour and 20 minutes to progress through the line. We estimated based on the lenght and number of weaving lines perhaps a 1,000 people. My knees did not appreciate the time I was standing but so be it. We picked up our luggage (thank goodness it made it), checked in to TAP (Air Portuguese) and made it to the gate in plenty of time. Our flight was a bit delayed due to heavy air traffic in Lisbon with us arriving in Seville 20 minues late.
We next picked up our rental vehicle and off we went on an easy drive of < one hour through Seville and on towards Huelva, before turning south passing through Aznalcazar, Pilas and on to Villamanrique and Ardea Purpurea.
- it was within an our drive of Seville airport
- it was out in the country, and
- it has a restaurant.
We found Ardea Purpurea (Purple Heron), on the border of Parque Nacional de Donana, that ticked each box.
Easy to find we checked into a beautiful thatched roof unit - large, with an expansive bathroom that included a huge jacuzzi tub, along with a nice outdoor terrace space. Our first impressions are very positive.
However there were a few irritants - the water for the tub was luke warm at best, there was no internet connection and the light over the terrace was not working. But rather than grumble we simply mentioned the issues to Carmen at reception and they were all dealt with immediately. We are very happy.
We were one of the first ones to dinner, arriving at 8:00 pm as the restaurant opened - traditional Spanish dinner time. Norm started with the Jamon Iberico de Bellota (acorn fed Iberian ham). He order the 'half' portion which turned out to be plenty enough ... and delicious. Then we shared a Risotto de Boletus (a special prized edible mushroom whose fungus produces spore-bearing fruit bodies above ground in summer and autumn. The fruit body has a large brown cap which on occasion can reach 30 cm and 3 kg in weight) - very creamy; an excellent choice. Along with olives, bread, a bottle of water and a glass of wine each, the meal came to 55 euros or $86 Cdn.
A nice end to a long day. We returned to our room and within minutes were fast asleep.
Right - dinner of risotto, a smoked meat sandwich, Prosecco and a plate of a variety of food (see below) at the Maple Leaf Lounge in Montreal.
Below - lunch at the Maple Leaf Lounge in Halifax.
Our unit with a large king bed, and a beautiful bathroom with a wonderful jacuzzi tub.
Right, our server pouring us a glass of wine.
Below, a bowl of olives to enjoy pre-dinner.
Spain - March 31, 2025 to April 16, 2025
This year we are headed to the south-west corner in and around Cadiz. Three of our lodgings will be in rural settings with two in in cities - Cadiz and Jerez de la Frontera.
We are flying to Toronto, then Lisbon and finally on to Seville where we will pick up our rental car. We will be staying
- 4 nights at Andrea Purpurea Lodge west of Seville, then
- 3 nights at La Casa del Consul, in Cadiz, after which
- 3 nights at La Fructuosa in the town of Guacin, followed by
- 3 nights at Cortijo Las Pelatas near Ronda, and then two one nighters, the first
- in Jerez de la Frontera at La Gitanilla, and
- the second near the airport, still to be determined