April 13, 2025 - Ronda (Cortijo las Piletas)
Cortijo las Piletas is a peaceful country hotel, far away from the hustle and bustle of any big city and close to nature. It is green sustainable, comfortable, and elegant, where getting to know Andalucia (and especially the Serranía de Ronda) turns out to be an authentic and enjoyable experience. The hotel is located 12 km from Ronda (on the Ronda-Sevilla road) and within the boundaries of the Natural Park of Grazalema.
Owned by Pablo y Elisenda, originally from Ronda, they decided to build their dream by leaving their jobs in the big city and managing the cortijo. Here they have raised their two daughters, Elisenda and Elvira.
One feels very welcome when on their website in large print we read "Our House is Your House".
Today's afternoon drive took us again in a counter-clockwise circle towards La Indiana, north then west and back through the small village of Montecorto.
Although it was obvious it was raining to the south we managed to escape it. We enjoyed a wonderful drive through some rolling countryside of expansive fields dotted with holm oak trees, surrounded by mountains.
For the most part there was little to see beyond the gorgeous countryside, vibrant with green grass from the rains of March.
The area is dotted with a number of vineyards the most well known appearing to be Bodegas Ramon-Paul.
After our short but enjoyable drive we returned to the cortijo. Being Sunday with few restaurants open in the evening in the nearby villages / towns we decided to take advantage of the FOOD CORNER and eat in.
"This is a wonderful service that our guests enjoy at any time day or night: we offer a useful Mini-market and a FOOD CORNER with local cheeses, sausages and ham, fruit and vegetables and a nice selection of ready-to-heat meals with fish, meat and vegetarian options always giving priority to local and organic. Enjoy high quality table linen, fine porcelain dinnerware, candle lights and good music in our dinning room full of natural light or eat “al fresco” in the spectacular patio sharing intimate sunsets; you will find your perfect corner to feel at home after visiting Ronda, Grazalema, Setenil or after a beautiful walk in the Natural Park. A real treat. If you prefer to bring your own food, please feel free, our home is your home and we love to see you enjoying it"
While it would have been nice to 'picnic' outside the cool weather and threatening skies, and a few drops of rain had us retreat to our room. We had half a bottle of wine from last night, accompanied by an actually very good gazpacho, some chorizo sausage, cheese, olives and bread / crackers. There was no lack of choice, including a number of hot meals (to be microwaved) - see the menu below. What a great concept; it worked out very well for us.
It a bit felt like being in Italy with the selection of cakes for breakfast.
A cortijo with a small castle on the hill. Bodegas Ramon-Paul.
With the morning weather not co-operating, including ominous skies indicating a likelihood of rain we accepted today would be a day to enjoy the Cortijo. In fact it was cold enough in the morning that a fire was roaring in the lounge.
We were looking forward to dinner, having made a reservation at El Muelle de Arriate, a restaurant half an hour away at which we ate in 2019 upon the recommendation of Hans and Miranda. We did not hesitate to return to this interesting restaurant with excellent food including many unique options for Gayle.
Breakfast was very good. Beyond hard boiled eggs there were no fried or scrambled eggs but everything else one would expect including a very nice selection of meats, including Serrano ham, and cheese. Coffee, fresh orange juice, fruit, cakes, cereal, bread, jams - they had it all.
By mid-afternoon the weather somewhat cleared, enough that we decided to take a drive through the area. We headed south (7 km) to the town of Montejaque passing moss covered trees, wide open spaces dotted with holm oaks, and of course a flock of sheep and the accompanying two sheep dogs. There were a number of interesting / massive rock formations all of which made for an interesting drive.
We went into the 'centre' of Montejaque (a pretty town with a nice central square with consistent yellow trimmed buildings) to search out a restaurant for tomorrow. However being Sunday most were closed and those that weren't were only open in the afternoon.
We continued on to Benojan where we turned north-east, again driving through some pretty countryside. It was suggested we might consider taking the train through the area, being a nice way to spend some time. We seriously considered doing so but the schedules (perhaps because tomorrow is Sunday) just didn't work. Perhaps another time.
Completing our counter-clockwise route we approached but bypassed Ronda, a popular tourist municipality of 35,000 dominated by a dramatic rock face and gorge that carries the Guadalevin River.
Ronda, where we stayed at the Parador perched on the cliff, was the first place we stayed in Spain when we first visited in 2001.
"In summer the spacious terrace provides stunning views across the Llano de la Cruz valley toward the Sierra de Grazalema mountains. Homemade food can be enjoyed by the trackside, greeted by the driver of the last train of the day. In winter, enjoy a cup of coffee and a slice of homemade cake inside by the wood-burning fireplace. Then, at midday, enjoy a hearty stew to recharge after a long hike. In the evening, enjoy a cozy dinner with family or friends."
We were warmly greeted by Frank. The restaurant was not particularly busy which gave us opportunity to chat. Gayle started with a glass of Cava while we ordered a bottle of Baron de Ley Rioja, half of which we took back to the Cortijo given we were driving. Norm started with a flavourful Crema de Pescada con Langostinos, Mejillones y Mariscos / a fish soup with prawns, mussels and shellfish. Excellent. For our main courses Norm had the Jarrete de Cordero con Patatas y Verduras / Lamb shank with potatoes and vegetables. Norm can never go wrong with lamb shank. Gayle had a most interesting dish - not on the formal menu - but available tonight - a Goose egg over marinated potatoes, oyster mushrooms with truffle sauce and peppers. Interestingly presented it was an excellent choice, very much enjoyed. For dessert we had the Crema de Limon con Chocolate Blanco / Lemon curd with white chocolate, adorned with a pansy - light and delicious.
Throughout the meal we were served with a smile by Angel. Later in the evening - perhaps 9:30 pm or so - two other sets of guests arrived, each with young children. One had twins only a few months old, who slept throughout, and the other had three children - two in their teens and the other one being perhaps two. Very well behaved, quite the difference from the youngsters at Ardea Purpurea.
The drive back, although in the dark, was quite easy. We slept well after a very enjoyable meal. Gracias Frank and Angel!
Here we have purpletop verbana, yellow bee orchid and a few poppies amongst black mustard.
The 'centre' of Montejaque - the Plaza de la Constitucion.
The town square of Montejaque with lots of people out in spite of the less than ideal weather and a neat fountain.
Frank the owner, Angel the server and Frank and Norm chatting.
Very happy after dinner.
With our stay in Gaucin having come to an end we are off today towards Ronda and our next stop at Cortijo las Piletas, but not before a final breakfast.
We were impressed with Gaucin - a pretty white village in the mountains. There are a number of nice restaurants and certainly our lodging was excellent. A very worthwhile stop if in the area.
We considered a number of routes but with the less than ideal weather we started heading north. However rather than continuing directly towards Ronda we did turn west through the hills of the area, passing through some pretty countryside and cork forests.
We eventually made our way to Ubrique, a compact but large for the area white village nestled in amongst the mountains. The drive was very picturesque with numerous sheep out and about, including a flock that overtook a recreation area.
Along the way we passed through the village of Villaluenga del Rosario, home of the payoyo cheese and the Festival de 'ueso'.
Unfortunately the cortijo no longer serves dinner on a regular basis. They did in years past and still do on special occaisions but most nights not. However they have a 'mini-store' where one can buy a number of items (more on that in couple of days). There is a Venta just down the road where we chose to have dinner. It was ok but in retrospect we should have searched harder for a bit nicer place. That said after a day of traveling it was close and convenient, making it quite appealing. Gayle started with the Sopa de Esparragos (asparagus soup) which was a weird colour and didn't provide the flavour of asparagus. Not great. Norm had a very tasty Gazpacho Andaluz (a cold tomato soup in the Andalusian style). Gayle then went with the simple Macarrones con tomate (macaroni in a tomato sauce) - her serving being enough to feed a family of four. Upon seeing the menu Norm knew immediately he was going to have the Chuleta de cordero (grilled lamb chops). A very good choice.
We returned to the cortijo and called it a night.
Our drive took us through a cork forest. Cork trees are typically harvested / stripped every 9 to 12 years after their initial harvest at around 25 years old. The bark is removed, leaving the inner layer intact to allow for regrowth. This process is repeated, with the bark becoming increasingly suitable for wine stoppers with each subsequent harvest.
Portugal is the primary supplier of cork, with Spain being next,
folllowed by France and Italy.
With the weather not cooperating today (cool, cloudy with a few scattered showers) and a really nice room in a nice lodging we spent the entire day in Gaucin. Normally we would have taken a drive through the countryside but where it didn't seem we would get much out of doing so we decided to enjoy what we had.
Breakfast was again delicious during which we met a couple from San Francisco - Tom and Rosemary. They too have been to Spain a number of times and had returned to Gaucin where they had been once before. We enjoyed a nice chat (as well tomorrow morning) re our travels and the political situation in the US. Nice couple.
We're not sure where the day went after that. Most was spent in our room working on our blogs, catching up on news and responding to emails. Late afternoon we went out for a short walk around town although there was not much more to see than we saw yesterday.
The restaurant we wanted to go to was full so we made an online reservation at another - Azulete. Although we received a confirmation of our reservation we were very surprised to find the restaurant closed when we arrived. Terrible. The downstairs bar was open so we popped in. The bartender was apologetic and very nice. He provided us with a (small) hand-written menu. We decided to stay and have a copa de vino and a Cava along with the 'special' butter whipped with garlic and paprika and the cheese plate, which was excellent. While enjoying our wine and food a group of loud and rowdy (but in a good way) Brits dropped in. As is often the case when others find out we are from Canada there are so many complements about how wonderful Canada is and how much people want to visit. It was nice to see people having so much fun.
Having enjoyed our meal at La Fructuosa last night we decided to wander back and have a dish each. Gayle chose the Ensalada de rucula, queso de cabra, and fruitos secos, i.e. the rocket salad, goat cheese and dried fruits. Very attractively presented it was a great choice. Norm having fond memories of the oxtail served at Cortijo El Guarda ordered the Robo de toro con pure de boniato / oxtail with sweet potato puree. Exactly as remembered the oxtail literally falls off the bone. Very typically Spanish.
Although very disappointed the restaurant was not open (who confirms a reservation that day and then is not open?) the evening turned out quite well. The bar drinks and food were somewhat pricey but then we expected that in a bar. But they were good and the lively Brits made for a fun time. Returning to La Fructuosa was a good decision as we each enjoyed a nice dish, another glass of cava and wine, and had only two flights of stairs to climb to return to our room.
Left - the creative butter infuised with garlic and sweet paprika.
Below - the Brits are coming; the Brits are coming ... no the Brits are here!
Today was a quiet day in Gaucin, starting with a wonderful breakfast in a beautiful restaurant. There was fresh orange juice, great coffee, a fresh croissant, nice meats and cheeses. cereal, lots of fruit, nice bread with jam, a selection of cakes and eggs if one wished. One very nice thing about breakfast here is that it continues to 11:00 am - appreciated as we are not early risers.
Our room and the views from it here at La Fructuosa are top notch. Tiled rooves, flowers and expansive vistas across the valley to the sea (apparently at least on a clear day).
During the afternoon we took a stroll through the village, noticing signage for narrowing streets - not for traffic calming but rather bull containment as preparations had started for the annual 'Toro de Cuerda' held on Easter Sunday, although festivities start on the Saturday with events focused on the children. Below, in the photos is an extensive description of the Toro de Cuerda.
Although it was still somewhat cool - high teens, there were a few families having lunch on the outdoor terrace. Some of these Spanish are quite tough.
Gaucin is a beautiful mountain village of 1,592 inhabitants (2024), a number of which are ex-pats. It is wonderful to walk through with twisting one-way streets, lined with white-washed buildings. Even with my knees it only takes more or less an hour to see most of the village.
For dinner tonight we ate at La Fructuosa's restaurant, where we had had breakfast in the morning. Gayle started with a glass of Cava (that she very much liked) while Norm had a glass of rose wine (Ramon Bilbao 2021). As a starter / amuse bouche we were offered some very thinly sliced marinated cucumbers. We then ordered the baked goat cheese with piquitto pepper and mango jam. However while waiting Norm saw many with an Alcachofas (artichoke) con jamon (with ham) and couldn't resist ordering one. Decent but not as good as it looked. For her main course Gayle had the Risotto with shiitake mushrooms and payoyo cheese, a local cheese made from the milk of Payoyo goats and Merina grazalema sheep of Villaluenga del Rosario (home of the festival de 'ueso' (inside joke)) and other areas of the Sierra de Grazalema. Payoyo is the the name of those from Villaluenga del Rosario. Norm had the duck magret with caramelized apple and red fruit sauce. Both dishes were excellent. Tonight we again had dessert - for Norm the Tartado de queso con fruits rojas (cheese cake with red fruits). The cheese cake was good although Norm is still searching for the red fruits Norm and a scoop of cinnamon ice cream for Gayle.
It was a short walk up two flights to our room..
The following taken from ' Visit Gaucin' website.
The festival consists of running a bull tied by the horns through the streets of the town.
The run is directed by those with proven experience and it is they who are charged with animating the animal by waving their capes (performing capotazos) and handling the rope.
Although increasingly controversial, the Cuerda remains a popular festival and many of its supporters see themselves as guardians of a cultural treasure that must be preserved. Among aficionados the bull is respected and its mistreatment is considered an act of cowardice. Bragging in front of the bull is not rewarded and at no time is physical suffering of the bull be sought or allowed.
In Gaucin the festival begins on Easter Saturday when the officials of the “comisión del toro” and a large number of fans go to the ranch to witness the collection of the bulls and to accompany them on their journey to the village. The same Saturday an event is held for the children of the village in which a fictitious bull is run through the streets of Gaucín and in the early evening there is a “pre toro party” for all to enjoy.
On Easter Sunday, in the place known as the “Carrera”, the first bull is released at 10:30 in the morning and the president of the Commission announces the beginning of the festival by means of a rocket. There are normally three runs each with a different bull making the festival is an all day event.
For most Gaucineños, this festival is of great importance and provokes much passion and emotion, not least because it involves the reunion with friends and relatives that years ago left Gaucín as emigrants. It is very common to hear them bid farewell at the end of the weekend with the phrase “Nos vemos pá el toro” – we will see each other at the Toro!
While we were in Gaucin preparations were taking place for the 'Toro de Cuerda' or roped bull run, an event celebrated in Gaucin each Easter Sunday, the second most loved festival in Gaucin, after September's Santo Nino.
Although dating back centuries the 'Toro de Cuerda' is now celebrated in less than a hundred towns across Spain. Each town's festival is different with Gaucin's taking on some religious significance, always taking place at the end of Holy Week.
Photo below taken from ' Visit Gaucin' website.
restaurante associated with the hotel at which we were staying.
After three nights it was time to move on after enjoying our time at the Counsul's House owned by Vitorre and Eric. Their home is certainly unique and artistic, having achieved their goal of creating a welcoming atmosphere where guests can relax and enjoy their stay. Beyond our beautiful apartment the highlight of the house is the 'wild, aromatic and charming terrace with beautiful views of the city, the wonderful gardens in front of the house, the pier and the Bay Bridge.
One of the unique aspects of the home is the existence of a well, apparently one of only five in Cadiz. The well dates back from when the location was used by the military.
Our route took us south-east from Cadiz generally inland until reachng Tarifa where we traveled along the coast with views of beaches and the Strait of Gibralter, which we could see from our drive.
After passing by Algeciras we turned inland through first rolling hills and then more mountainous terrain until reaching the mountain white village of Gaucin.
For breakfast we stopped at a small roadside 'Venta'. In Spain, a 'venta' is a roadside inn, often isolated, that serves as a stop for travelers. They can be considered similar to inns, but are typically found on rural roads or in less populated areas, unlike traditional inns (mesones or posadas) which are closer to towns and villages. We each had a coffee, a tortilla and Norm a tapas of toro (beef).
Gaucin, located in the west of the province of Malaga is one of the towns making up the Serrania de Ronda region. The area includes a varied landscape of cork oaks, holm oaks and pine groves along with chestnut and wild olive trees.
The town is located below the Aguila Castle, of great strategic importance along with Gibralter in forming the defence of the south.
The approach from the south-west is breath-taking as the whitewashed walls of virtuallly every building stands out as the most noticeable feature against the landscape. From in the town, and especially our room the view on a clear day to the coast, Gibralter and Morocco are spectacular.
Gaucin has turned out to be a real ex-pat community with, according to our host, a quarter of the permancent residents now being ex-pats, and as a result the village has a number of excellent restaurants.
We are staying at La Fructuosa, a small boutique hotel with a nice restaurant owned by a French couple, Daniel and Catherine.
However with a number of restaurants closed Monday and Tuesday, for dinner tonight we chose to eat at La Raiz where we were treated excellently by Jonathan. Being my 'birthday' meal I didn't hold back.
One thing we have noticed this trip is the absence of olive oil on one's table - always available if one asks but not present as in the past. Here at La Raiz not only was there olive oil but we both agreed it was particularly good.
Although they were out of our choice of wine Jonathan recommended an Arzuga Crianza 2022 from the Ribeiera Del Duero. An excellent recommendation it was very much enjoyed. I then ordered the Jamon Iberico, from pigs that we were told were fed on chestnuts. I'm not sure I could detect the subtely but the slices, cut a bit thicker than usual, were delicious. Gayle then had a selection of croquetas - mushroom, spinach and zucchini while Norm had the Entrecot de Cordero (lamb) for his main course, both served with padron peppers. Both excellent. Unusually we both had dessert - Gayle the Brownie con Helado (ice cream) and Norm the Crumble with Manzano (apple crumble also with ice cream), of course with a candle.
Interestingly there was another guest having dinner who also was celebrating his birthday today ... what were the odds - I know you could figure it out if you knew how many other guests were present this evening but you get my drift?
To bring the meal to a close Jonathan offered us a liqueur - Gayle chose the Limoncello while Norm the Miura. a wild cherry liqueur from the area around Sevilla.
A short walk returned us to La Fructuosa to end the day.
Enjoying dessert.
April 7, 2025 - Cadiz (La Casa del Consul)
Our second day in Cadiz was similar to our first. Mid morning off we went in search of breakfast. Today we had a place picked out - Cafe de Levante. It turned out to be a great choice - a cozy cafe with character and great coffee which we enjoyed with breakfast sandwiches - cheese for Gayle and Serrano ham for Norm.
We then continued on to the Central Market. Being a Monday there were a limited number of stalls open but those that were had a wonderful selection of fruit, meats, cheese, bread etc. However the fish market was closed, having no doubt done a bustling business on the weekend. .
It was surprisingly busy though with many out and about, including a street musician playing flamenco. A very enjoyable experience.
We then searched out a couple of churros and chocolate places but again being Monday they were closed. So on we went, generally heading back to Casa del Consul, with a couple of stops to people watch, or listen to those playing music in the city's parks.
We eventually found our way back and up to the terrace where we finished the Cava and some wine we had. It was very relaxing to do so looking out over the Plaza de Espana and the cruise ships in the port.
For dinner Eric had made us reservations at 'la candale'. Another winner - a small restaurant, although food was consistently taken outside which was perplexing given the cool temps and the fact there were no tables set up or people eating outside leaving us somewhat confused. Upon entering we noticed bottles of Lolea sangria that we had enjoyed while eating at Lolea - the restaurante in Barcelona. Certainly not Norm's sangria but respectably decent. Norm started with a couple of pork and chicken croquettes. Gayle had the Ensalada de Berenjena Ahumada, Cremosa de Queso y Albatiaco Sobre Sada de Tomate Seco Aciete de Albahara y Anacardo (did we ever mention the Spanish have the longest, most comprehensive names for their dishes?) or Smoked aubergine salad with goat cheese, basil, cashews and dried tomatoes - a unique and excellent choice. Norm had the - wait for it - Presa Iberica a Buja Temperatura, Papas Arrugas Ai Mojo Rojo Brioche y Chimichurri aka Iberian pork meat made in low temperature with potatoes, mojo sauce, chimichurri and brioche bread - also a good choice. For dessert Gayle had the Sorbeta caser do mojito de Fresa, essentially a strawberry mojito sorbet. Very tart and unique, almost a drink.
A slow stroll back to La Casa del Consul brought the day to an end.
Regular fruit. Exotic fruit. Cheese.
A variety of plants on the terrace overlooking the Plaza de Espana.
April 6, 2025 - Cadiz (La Casa del Consul)
Although Eric provided many options we had nothing planned for our time in Cadiz beyond wandering through the narrow streets, relaxing by the parks and enjoying La Casa del Consul's rooftop terrace.
Cádiz, with a population of 114,442 (2021) is an ancient port city in the Andalucia region of southwestern Spain. The home of the Spanish Navy, the port boomed in the 16th-century as a base for exploration and trade. It has more than 100 watchtowers, including the iconic Torre Tavira, which was traditionally used for spotting ships. On the waterfront is the domed, 18th-century Cádiz Cathedral, featuring baroque and neoclassical elements.
Cádiz, Europe's oldest continuously inhabited city, was founded by the Phoenician's, dating back an incredible 3,500 years. Due to its strategic port location, where Christopher Columbus sailed from on voyages to America, Cádiz became an important centre for commercial trade.
Although a number of people spoke highly of Cadiz we were not expecting much. However we were very pleasantly impressed with the old city - it's narrow pedestrian friendly streets; small squares and parks.
La Casa del Consul is located in the north east corner of old Cadiz (the red pin), overlooking the Plaza de Espana, a large park the centre of which is the Monument to the Constitution of 1812. Begun in 1912 the monument took 17 years to complete.
There were tables set up along one side with a number eating so we sat down. We enjoyed quite a decent breakfast of coffee con leche, fresh orange juice and a serrano ham bocadillo (Norm) and an egg and tomato omellete sandwich (Gayle).
We continued to wander aimlessly around before returning to La Casa del Consul where we took our gift of Cava and headed up to the rooftop terrace, a beautiful space filled with plants and flowers / orchids. There is even a pool although it was much too cold to consider.
For dinner Eric booked us into Balandro, a restaurant with both a formal area and a more casual informal bar with stools. We were booked at the bar where the dishes were more tapas style - smaller servings than a full dinner. Gayle started with Tempurade Verduras - an assortment of fresh vegetables in Tempura served with a sweet and sour sauce while Norm began with Raviolis de Carne con Cartillada Iberica - ravioli stuffed with and surrounded by pork sirloin. Gayle followed with Garbonzo con Espinacas - an excellent spinach and chick pea stew. Norm had the Arroz Marinaro con Pescados y Mariscos - a fish and seafood creamy rice with cuttlefish, shrimp and saffron. Decent taste but very light on the seafood. A good choice for dinner. We enjoyed a short walk back to del Consul where we turned in.
With no planned destination we wandered through the narrow streets of Cadiz, looking for a spot for desayuno / breakfast. We eventually came upon a park with tables set up and a restaurant - Mediterraneo across the street. We sat down and enjoyed a nice breakfast.
April 5, 2025 - Villamanrique de la Condesa
to Cadiz (La Casa del Consul)
After four nights it was time to leave Ardea Purpurea. Overall a nice stay the location was very much to our liking. We were especially impressed with the style of hut construction, in which the roofs are handcrafted with 'castañuela', a material collected in the marshes of Donana, reminiscent of the ancient villages of this area of the provinces of Seville, Huelva and Cádiz, or even reminiscent of African Lodges with their enormous timbers, plant roofs, etc. Very impressive indeed.
In addition to the cabinas the main lodge is also impressive. Dinners were on the whole very good while breakfasts, other than the all you want fresh orange juice and good strong coffee, were sadly disappointing. Our daily drives, while perhaps not spectacular were interesting, particularly due to the abundance of birds, especially the storks. And then there was Momma duck and her brood of 11 who brightened each day with their presence.
The drive to our next destination - Cadiz - is more or less two hours.
With no means to cross the Rio Guadilquivar one must drive back to Sevilla before turning south to Cadiz. Mostly flat the drive passed through a number of agricultural areas.
About half way we passed from Sevilla Province into Cadiz Province. It was surprisingly easy to drive into the actual older historical part of the city where we again fairly easily found the parking location suggested to us by Vittore. Located perhaps 300 m from La Casa del Consul we crossed the Plaza de Espagna where we again easily found our lodging.
We had arranged a 5:00 pm meet time so just parked ourselves on a bench adjacent to the park and enjoyed the fine weather.
While waiting a fellow with a Canada hat on passed by. We got chatting and found out Paul, a CA, actually grew up in Halifax before moving to Toronto a number of years ago ... small world.
We were met by Eric - Vittore's partner - who spent nearly two hours with us - telling us about the Casa and all there is to see and do in Cadiz, as well as suggesting and making dinner reservations for us. First impressions of La Casa del Consul are very positive - the building being four stories with a typical Spanish open interior. Eric and Vittore's artwork is something else - photos at a later time. Our room overlooking the park is large and airy with two windows and a high ceiling. Very sophisticated with mood lighting (both behind the bed and in the bathroom) and a sophisticated Japenese toilet. As well there was an oven and a sink providing some opportunity to cook if one wished.
Just around the corner is Almanaque, a restaurant recognized by Michelin. A small and charming restaurant located in a historic building in the old part of Cádiz, next to the park (Plaza de España) where the monument to the Constitution of 1812 is located.
"Chef Juan Carlos Borrell, who always offers wonderful dry rice dishes (with red shrimp and prawns; beef tongue; lamb with chickpeas and beans...) as a tribute to his years working in the Spanish Levant, champions a cuisine that eschews artifice, concentrating on preserving traditional Cádiz recipes and enhancing every flavor as much as possible."
There were three vegetarian options provided to Gayle of which she chose the Coliflor rebozada mantecula con Harissa. Perhaps not the most visually appealing she enjoyed the flavour and spice. Norm went with the Arroz seco de Jurrete da Cordero (Puede contener calda de marisco) - a rice dish with a large lamb shank. Not sure it was worth 32 euros but the lamb was certainly tender and the rice tasty. We accompanied our meal with a Muriel Reserva 2019 - Tempranillo from Rioja.
It was < a one minute walk back to La Casa del Consul where we soon turned in.
The pond, somewhat brown due to all the recent rain, adjacent to the lodge - great for the ducks and birds in the area.
Donana Nature Reserve is
home to the Spanish Lynx. Throughout our drives we encountered signs indicating the potential of lynx crossings with reduced speed limits. in spite of the warnings we did not encouner a lynx.
On previous trips we saw these 'billboards' of bulls in various places throughout Spain, but for the first time we are now seeing a flamenco guitarist.
April 4, 2025 - Villamanrique de la Condesa (Ardea Purpurea) with a drive to Isla Mayor
The weather remains luke-warm at best, having rained through the night, cool and overcast as we awoke.
Some time after 10:00 am we wandered to the lodge for breakfast. Same same and not different. The fresh orange juice is a great way to start followed by good strong coffee con leche. The eggs - fried for Norm and scrambled for Gayle were good, but after that it was the same as previous days - some sliced meats, cheese and tomato, bread that warmed but didn't really toast, and packaged jams and other condiments.
Today we decided to head into the east side of Donana Nature Park - to Isla Mayor, the newest municipality in Seville, following its segregation in 1994 from La Puebla del Río. Previously known as Villafranco del Guadalquivir (the name was changed in 2000) the municipal area is located on land belonging to the Lower Guadalquivir Marshes, part of which is included in the Doñana Environment Natural Park.
It originated between 1920 and 1930 with the colonization of the marsh for the cultivation of rice, the main and almost only source of wealth for the municipality. The surrounding towns have exploited the lands of Villafranco del Guadalquivir for livestock farming for two centuries. The colonization carried out in the Guadalquivir marshes between the 1920s and 1930s for the cultivation of rice gave rise to the creation of this town.
As we were driving towards Isla Mayor we encountered flooding on the road. A vehicle was on the other side with guys hanging around and the car's hood up. We quickly decided we were not going to attemp to drive through. Fortunately another fellow passed by, came to the same conclusion and motioned for us to follow him as he too was headed to Isla Mayor. Sadly we did not take a photo of the flooded road.
As it turned out the drive was circuitous although in doing so it did take us through parts of the Donana Nature Park where we did see a large number of birds and waterfowl. The town of Isla Mayor caught us a bit off guard as we were expecting more nature / interpretivie centres etc. Rather, the town is quite industrial focusing, as mentioned before, on the production of rice. It was an interesting experience and glimpse into the area but had we done a bit more research we would have better understood what the town / area offered.
Because of the detour and time it took we chose not to return via Aznalcazr as originally planned but rather followed the exact same route back to Ardea Purpurea.
We enjoyed another nice dinner, being our last night. Norm repeated the Jamon Iberico de bellota 'media' plate from the first night followed by the Presa iberica de bellota - Iberian pork shoulder blade with migas (Spanish bread crumbs), Padron green peppers and romesco sauce - a traditional Spanish sauce of sun dried tomatoes, roasted red peppers and red wine vinegar that originated from Valls in the province of Tarragona in Catalonia. The fishermen in the area made this sauce to be eaten with fish, with its use since expanded. An excellent dish. Gayle had a very creative and delicious salad - Ensalade crujiente de parmesana y crema de queso parmesana con hoja de roble, pina y tomates confitadoes - a crunchy parmesan salad with parmesan cheese, oak leaf lettuce, pineapple and candied tomatoes. Also excellent. We finished with a scoop of chocolate ice-cream.
Beyond the taste of our meals our dishes have been so attractively presented.
April 3, 2025 - Villamanrique de la Condesa (Ardea Purpurea)
Another pretty miserable day with some heavy rain in the morning and temperatures hovering around 15 C. As expected breakfast was identical to the first day (and we expect will be all future days) which is a tad disappointing. Hardly the 'magnificent' breakfast advertised but the coffee is very good and the fresh orange juice wonderful.
However when one does not start breakfast until well after 10:00 am, finishing after 11:00 am it certainly feels like a good part of the day is behind us. Although it was still overcast with temperature in the high teens we decided to head out for a drive mid afternoon.
We then headed north-west towards Huelva, with a short stop at the Parador and beach in Mazagon. Contnuing on we passed through what must be the strawberry capital of Spain with acres and acres of white covered rows of strawberry plants. We completed our loop on the highway, turning off at Chucena and returning to Villamanrique de la Condesa. In total a drive of 180 +/- kms. While we are glad we did the drive we won't say it was the most scenic drive we have ever been on, with the Golfo de Cadiz rarely in view.
Dinner was beautifully presented although the taste of our choices did not live up to the visual experience. We started with a selection of croquetas - mushroom for Gayle and jamon and gambas for Norm. Gayle then had the Ensalada de Mango y Aquacatras (avocado). Normally served with langostinos (small lobster) Gayle obviously passed on those. Beautiful presentation but lacking in dressing and taste. Norm ordered the Pulpo a la brasa sobra parentier de patata ahumada y patata al horno - a large octopus tentacle on a potato puree with grilled potatoes. Again beautiful to photo but not as flavourful as a smaller grilled tentacle. For dessert we shared a Tarta de la Abuela rellena natillos caseras y crema de chocolate fondant (Grandma's cake stuffed with homemade custard and fondant chocolate cream) - quite nice.
The comarea de Donana has been declared a UNESCO Human Heritage Site and Biosphere Reserve. The Donana Nature Area houses both the Donana National Park and the Donana Nature Park, where wetlands, dunes and pine forests are home to a unique biodiversity of plants and animals with the river Guadalquivir acting as its spinal column. The many bird species that live in the area are a huge attraction.
Norm's pulpo a la brasa with grilled potatoes.
For dessert Grandma's cake stuffed with homemade custard and fondant chocolate creme.
April 2, 2025 - Villamanrique de la Condesa (Ardea Purpurea)
Not surprisingly we slept in ... until 10:00 am. The five hour time change plus minimal sleep on the overnight flight to Lisbon does that. Fortunately breakfast is served here until 11:00 am - very civil.
Breakfast was decent but not exceptional. The coffee con leche (with milk) is excellent as is the fresh squeezed orange juice. There is a large copper pot filled with oranges that one inserts into this machine and voila, fresh squeezed orange juice. Delicious. There is yoghurt and cereal, pastries and fruit, sliced meat and cheese and a basket of bread but no tortilla, no jamon, and no tomato spread to add to toast. Eggs can be ordered.
By the time we finished and returned to our room it was pushing noon. Our Wifi was not working so we waited for the maintenance fellow to see what was wrong with our router. Success. He fixed whatever the problem was and we now have internet.
We also have a family of ducklings - 11 to be exact - along with mom - meandering around the grounds as well as learning how to swim in the pool. They are so cute. Being on the edge of Parque Natural de Donana there are birds everywhere.
Doñana National Park is known for its wetlands, migratory birds, pine forests and shifting coastal dunes. In the park, Palacio del Acebron is a 20th-century palace, home to the national park visitor center. Nearby, El Rocío Hermitage is a religious sanctuary dating from the 13th century. The area was declared protected in 1969, being one of the most important in Andalusia and the largest ecological reserve in Europe. The aquatic and terrestrial ecosystems give it specific characteristics enabling it to host a unique biodiversity witih species such as the endangered Iberian lynx and the imperial eagle. The marsh is a transit, breeding, and wintering ground for thousands of European and African birds making it an ecosystem of extremely high ecological value. The Park was recognized in 1994 by UNESCO on its World Heritage List and a year later by the Council of Europe with its European Diploma for Protected Areas, reflecting the conservation, planning and integrated management of its natural resources.
Unfortunately the weather is not great with temperatures in the mid to high teens but feeling cooler given the intermittent rain. As a result we spent most of the afternoon in our unit. However late afternoon we decided to go out for a short drive to the nearby town of Villamanrique de la Condesa and the surrounding countryside. We were treated to a number of storks and a surprisingly nice sunset.
We then returned to Ardea Purpurea for dinner. We ordered a bottle of our favourite Spanish wine - Muga to enjoy with our meal. Gayle started with the Salmorejo cordobes, a traditional creamy tomato soup originating from Andalusia made from tomato, bread, extra virgin olive oil and garlic. The soup is served cold garnished with diced hard-boiled eggs and normally Iberico ham (although Gayle passed on the ham). For her main course Gayle had the Revuelto de setas y cebolla caramelizada (scrambled eggs with mushrooms and carmalized onions). Revueltos are a common dinner item here in Spain. Norm ordered the Brazuelo de cordero lechal al horno - baked lamb shoulder - accompanied by beets and a potato croquette stuffed with mushrooms absolutely delicious. An excellent meal to end our first full day in Spain.
Left: - Villamanrique's church tower.
Below: The sky behind the palm trees after the sun had set.
March 31-> April 01, 2025
Halifax to Montreal to Lisbon to Seville
to Villamanrique de la Condessa (Ardea Purpurea)
All was good until we went to our gate and there was no plane. Although there was no indication online eventually there was an announcement that due to the fog the inbound flight from London coud not land and had been diverted to Montreal. As a consequence our flight was cancelled. Panic set in. Rather than join the mobs at the gate counter I immediately raced to the nearby Air Canada service counter. Although there was no one there I was first in line. There was another flight to Montreal only an hour later but whether we could get on it we had no idea. Shortly later a couple of agents arrived but even before I could pursue options with one of them he advised me Air Canada had proactively booked us on the 6:00 pm flight. Relief. We were assured our luggage had been redirected to our new flight. We left on time and arrived in Montreal on time as well still leaving us time to enjoy Montreal's Maple Leaf Lounge where we had both food and drink. We will say the Montreal international lounge is far better than Toronto.
The overnight flight was uneventful with an early arrival. But then immigration ... although every booth was open with agents it took one hour and 20 minutes to progress through the line. We estimated based on the lenght and number of weaving lines perhaps a 1,000 people. My knees did not appreciate the time I was standing but so be it. We picked up our luggage (thank goodness it made it), checked in to TAP (Air Portuguese) and made it to the gate in plenty of time. Our flight was a bit delayed due to heavy air traffic in Lisbon with us arriving in Seville 20 minues late.
We next picked up our rental vehicle and off we went on an easy drive of < one hour through Seville and on towards Huelva, before turning south passing through Aznalcazar, Pilas and on to Villamanrique and Ardea Purpurea.
- it was within an our drive of Seville airport
- it was out in the country, and
- it has a restaurant.
We found Ardea Purpurea (Purple Heron), on the border of Parque Nacional de Donana, that ticked each box.
Easy to find we checked into a beautiful thatched roof unit - large, with an expansive bathroom that included a huge jacuzzi tub, along with a nice outdoor terrace space. Our first impressions are very positive.
However there were a few irritants - the water for the tub was luke warm at best, there was no internet connection and the light over the terrace was not working. But rather than grumble we simply mentioned the issues to Carmen at reception and they were all dealt with immediately. We are very happy.
We were one of the first ones to dinner, arriving at 8:00 pm as the restaurant opened - traditional Spanish dinner time. Norm started with the Jamon Iberico de Bellota (acorn fed Iberian ham). He order the 'half' portion which turned out to be plenty enough ... and delicious. Then we shared a Risotto de Boletus (a special prized edible mushroom whose fungus produces spore-bearing fruit bodies above ground in summer and autumn. The fruit body has a large brown cap which on occasion can reach 30 cm and 3 kg in weight) - very creamy; an excellent choice. Along with olives, bread, a bottle of water and a glass of wine each, the meal came to 55 euros or $86 Cdn.
A nice end to a long day. We returned to our room and within minutes were fast asleep.
Right - dinner of risotto, a smoked meat sandwich, Prosecco and a plate of a variety of food (see below) at the Maple Leaf Lounge in Montreal.
Below - lunch at the Maple Leaf Lounge in Halifax.
Our unit with a large king bed, and a beautiful bathroom with a wonderful jacuzzi tub.
Right, our server pouring us a glass of wine.
Below, a bowl of olives to enjoy pre-dinner.
Spain - March 31, 2025 to April 16, 2025
This year we are headed to the south-west corner in and around Cadiz. Three of our lodgings will be in rural settings with two in in cities - Cadiz and Jerez de la Frontera.
We are flying to Toronto, then Lisbon and finally on to Seville where we will pick up our rental car. We will be staying
- 4 nights at Andrea Purpurea Lodge west of Seville, then
- 3 nights at La Casa del Consul, in Cadiz, after which
- 3 nights at La Fructuosa in the town of Guacin, followed by
- 3 nights at Cortijo Las Pelatas near Ronda, and then two one nighters, the first
- in Jerez de la Frontera at La Gitanilla, and
- the second near the airport, still to be determined