Our memories of Greece 2024:

We enjoyed another great experience in Greece (the Cyclades) with the following being our most vivid memories (in no particular order):

  • our anxious dash in Athens (after our late arrival) to make our flight to Paros
  • being reminded of how much we enjoy Hotel Petres; Eva, Sotiris and Clea
  • the excellent breakfasts with a number of local dishes at Petres
  • the very nice pool at Petres along with our first swim in the sea 
  • how much we love Pano Gitonia and the views from our terrace
  • dinner at To Mosxoydaki, especially interacting with Popi and Theofillos
  • the sheep burgers at the Cretan restaurant
  • the super easy access to swims at the very sandy Aegali beach
  • our day driving to the the south-east end of Amorgos and Kalotaritissa beach
  • the goats of Amorgos
  • feeding Alex apples
  • Amorgos sunsets
  • the welcoming and friendly Loni at O Kipos with our cute traditional Greek room in the garden
  • the easily accessible good restaurants on Donoussa
  • the wonderful Santorini house wine at Avli, along with the upscale food
  • Donoussa festival music being played throughout the night (until 8:00 am) for two consecutive nights
  • Gayle practicing her Greek dancing at sunrise
  • the accessibility (< 2 minute easy walk) to the beautiful, sandy Stavros beach
  • the spectacular views on the bus ride to and time spent on Donoussa's beautiful Kalotaritissa's beach
  • my camera breaking on Donoussa, and Linda loaning me hers on Koufonisi
  • returning to Pambelos Lodge with the wonderful views of the sea and Keros Island
  • Pambelos / Georgio's breakfasts 
  • Fanos beach and its soft sand and warm turquoise waters
  • the surprisingly delicious pizzas at Lavanda & Rosmarino 
  • our meals at Georgio's brother's restaurant Armira Kai Pioto 
  • making our ferry connection to Sikinos in Ios with only six minutes to spare
  • the service of Fotis and Happy at Zetine Suities, Sikinos
  • sampling a flight of local wines at Manalis Vineyards while watching a gorgeous sunset
  • the three beaches of Sikinos; the port / Alopronia and the drives to Agios Giorgios and  Dialiskari
  • the stunning isolated property at Provalma, including the awesome sunrises
  • extensive breakfast baskets, offering choices of food and drink, delivered to our room at Provalma
  • Irini's restaurant / general store - a real family ambiance; a step back in time
  • dinners in the beautiful tree canopied Plaka of Chora
  • our daily swims at Agkali Beach, Folegandros
  • our car battery dying during sunset and being 'saved' by Dominik and Lorena, the young Swiss couple
  • crossing paths four times with Patrick and Martin on two different islands (Folegandros and Sifnos) 
  • the north of Sifnos, including the drive down to Vroulidia beach, returning to the potter and Cheronissos
  • breakfasts at Niriedes, including all the fresh breads and cakes
  • returning to Lembesis for dinner - twice; for chick pea soup - twice and tender octopus
  • the wines and views at Santo Winery, Santorini
  • sadly the roadside garbage throughout Santorini
  • our dinners at the somewhat upscale Katerina's Traditional Restaurant in Karterados, Santorini
  • sharing a number of restaurant experiences with our friends Bill and Linda
  • the experience of 'feeling' Greece - sun, sand, sea, music => four + weeks of relaxation
  • Eva, Sotiris, Clea, Theo, Pookie, Loni, Georgio, Fotis, Happy, Yiannis, Alexa, Irini, Thanos and Antha
  • mountainous scenery with amazing sea views, especially Amorgos, Donoussa, Sikinos and Folegandros


A bit about each island we visited and our favourite islands:

(some repetition of the above memories)

               

Paros




Amorgos





Donoussa




Koufonisi




Sikinos




Folegandros





Sifnos





Santorini




  • love returning to Hotel Petres - Sotiris, Clea and Eva
  • lovely balcony overlooking the beautiful pool
  • enjoyed our first swim in the sea with little fish at our feet
  • buffet breakfasts are top notch with a number of local dishes
  • availability of Greek appetizers and one main dish throughout the day
  • otherwise not particularly impressed with Paros

  • returning again (5th time) to Pano Gitonia and reconnecting with Theo and Pookie
  • our terrace and its view from Pano Gitonia is as spectacular as ever - gorgeous sunsets
  • our meals and experiences at the restaurants in Lefkada 
  • the easy access and relaxing time in the water at Aegali beach
  • the dramatic scenery always in sight of the sea while crossing the island
  • the many many goats

  • our 'cute little Greek cottage', calm in the garden despite the wind
  • the friendliness and service of Loni and other guests
  • spectacular mountain drive to the beautiful Kalotaritissa beach 
  • easy access (< 2 minutes) to the port / Stavros beach
  • the many good tavernas / restaurants in Stavros
  • the festival and the laid back, relaxing vibe of the island

  • returning again for the 5th time - yes we like it a lot
  • Georgio / Pambelos Lodge including the spectacular view to the sea and Keros Island
  • Georgio's endless breakfasts
  • Fanos beach with its soft sand and calm turquoise water
  • the water taxis providing access to other beaches and Kato Koufonisi
  • the nice town of Chora

  • Zetine Suites - a wonderful small hotel on an island without many - Fotis and Happy
  • drives over the mountains to Agios Giorgios and Dialiskari beaches
  • easy access to the shallow, calm, warm port / Alopronia beach
  • enjoying a flight of wines at Manalis Winery watching the sun set over Folegandros
  • the maze of alleys in Chora

  • the stunning, isolated Provalma with its awesome sunrises
  • extensive breakfast baskets delivered daily to our room
  • daily swims at Akgali beach
  • the family feel and good traditional Greek food of Irini's traditional restaurant / general store
  • dinners in the beautiful tree canopied Plaka in Chora
  • the very interesting Chora - both the old Kastro and 'newer' side

  • returning to Lembesis taverna near Aftokofo beach with views of the Chrisopigi Monastery
  • traditional Sifnos recipies of chick pea soup and mastelo lamb
  • the drive to and isolation of Vroulidia beach
  • the breakfasts at Niriedies complete with fresh breads and baked goods, yoghurt and fruit along with many other options
  • the numerous shallow, sandy beaches
  • the 'green' nature of the island with its many olive trees

  • the higher prices
  • the roadside garbage
  • the hordes of people 
  • enjoying nice Santorini wine while admiring the views of Fira and Oia from the edge of of the caldera
  • the black volcanic (albeit pebbly) beaches
  • the nice traditional village of Megalochori
  • delicious 'upscale' Greek meals at Katerina's Traditional Restaurant 

Which leads us to our favourite islands:       

         Gayle                 Norm

A          Amorgos               Amorgos                 Perennial favourites - will definitely go to when in the Cyclades

            Koufonisi              Sifnos

                                         Koufonisi

B         Donoussa              Donoussa               Look forward to returning to                   

           Sikinios                  Sikinos

           Folegandros          Folegandros

           Sifnos

C        Paros                     Paros                       Would be a 'D' if not for Hotel Petres

D        Sanorini                 Santorini                  Been there done it



Finances / Expenses (based on average exchange rate 1 euro = $1.497 Cdn):


Here are the costs of our 32 day trip:


$    665           airfare (internal to Greece / Turkey)

$ 6,340           lodging ($198 Cdn $ per night) - including breakfast (tips in miscellaneous)

$ 2,205           food ($69 per day primarily for dinner of which $12 per day was for wine.  Groceries and other                             food purchases, e.g. bakeries also included.  Breakfasts, where provided, included in lodging.

$ 1,188           vehicle ($923 or $42 per day for the 22 rental days) plus fuel ($168) and taxis / bus ($97)

$    760           ferries

$    189           tips

$11,347          for 32 days

$     785          airfare (from Canada - Aeroplan), including seat selection

$12,132           

$     217           souvenirs - pottery +

$12,347


The total cost excluding airfare from Canada and souvenirs (i.e. lodging, food, vehicle and tips) was $11,347 or $355 per day.


Following are the average costs of this and our six previous trips to Greece.

  • $242 in 2015 (24 days)
  • $341 in 2017 (26 days)
  • $307 in 2018 (18 days)
  • $285 in 2019 (30 days)
  • $354 in 2022 (34 days)
  • $419 in 2023 (34 days)
  • $355 in 2024 (32 days)
In euros the average costs of lodging, food and transportation (internal flights, car rental, fuel, tolls and ferries) expenses per day has been as follows.  

                                    Lodging                   Food*             Transportation

Greece 2015                    78                          44                       42

Greece 2017                    97                          46

Greece 2018                  106                          45

Greece 2019                    95                          42                       47

Greece 2022                  144                          48                       59

Greece 2023                  170                          49                       64

Greece 2024                  133                          46                       54


* includes all food purchases (dinners, breakfasts where not included in lodging cost, groceries, bakeries etc.)

______________________________________________________________

Spain 2018                     147                          64

Spain 2019                     146                          68

Spain 2023                     178                          79                      27

Spain 2024                     204                          77                      68

______________________________________________________________

Italy 2022                       135                          61                       88

______________________________________________________________

France 2024                  155                          72                       59


Lodgings


Lodging ranged from a low of 60 euros (O Kipos, Donoussa) to a high of 190 euros (Onyx, Santorini), with the average being 133 euros .  All except Pano Gitonia and O Kipos included breakfast.

Here is a list of where we stayed, the amount we paid (in euros) and a link to their website.


Cost             Lodging                      Town / Island                                   Website / Link


135 euros     Petres Hotel                 Naoussa, Paros                                Hotel Petres

  80 euros     Pano Gitonia                 Potamos, Amorgos                          Pano Gitonia

  60 euros     O Kipos                         Stavros, Donoussa                          O Kipos

170 euros     Pambelos Lodge           Koufonisi                                          Pambelos Lodge

117 euros     Zetine Suites                 Alopronia, Sikinos                            Zetine Suites

166 euros     Provalma                       Ano Meria, Folegandros                  Provalma

184 euros     Hotel Niriedes               Platis Gialos, Sifnos                         Niriedes Hotel

190 euros     Onyx Hotel                    Karterados, Santorinii                      Onyx Hotel

     

As is our practice we communicate and book directly with each lodging.  In doing so we save the establishment the booking commission.  As well often we are known to owners / staff when we arrive.



October 07, 2024 - Santorini (Onyx)

Our last day in Santorini and Greece.  Fortunately we were not at all rushed as our flight was not until 4:35 pm.

The day started with breakfast.  As mentioned yesterday the breakfast here at Onyx is very 'American' with scrambled eggs, bacon and pancakes served cafeteria style.  It kind of felt like a Holiday Inn breakfast - certainly nothing wrong with it but nothing memorable as well.  Not a typical Greek breakfast.  But we guess we are in Santorini after all.   To their credit the pancakes were, quite surprisingly, accompanied by real Canadian maple syrup.  A nice touch.  Beyond yoghurt the only other 'Greek' item was a salad.

After breakfast we enjoyed the jacuzzi one final time.  Very nice and relaxing.

Having driven to the south yesterday today we headed north, up the north-east side, circling over the top to Oia and then back along the spine of Santorini.

The first part of the drive was picturesque with open spaces, windmills and the rich blue sea.

Then we arrived in Oia where the traffic suddenly increased significantly with parking only well away from the actual town.  With the expected hills we chose not to stop, rather turning around and heading back.

The drive took us through Finikia, around a mountain with great vistas to the coastal land (that we had just driven) below.

We passed Imerovigli and then around Fira before returning the Onxy to pick up our luggage. 

Unfortunately, or perhaps not, as the government of the island clearly chooses to do nothing about it, Santorini is full of road-side garbage.  Bottles, construction materials, boxes, glass - pretty much anything you can think of.  

There is too much road litter in Halifax, too much in Corfu and way too much in Morocco.  Sadly Morocco is riveled by the garbage here in Santorini - disgusting.  But it is not just us who noticed.  We found this post titled Santorini:  The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (https://atasteofancientroutes.wordpress.com/2014/10/22/santorini-the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly/).  Here is the Ugly.  

"The ugly

Rubbish. Rivers of rubbish, and indeed mountains. Just before arriving in Fira (the ugly, and artificial capital of the island) I came across the rubbish tip of the island, a mound of plastic, paper, boxes, crates, glass – everything. And I am sure that this is not the only one. It is just next to the road, slightly obscured by a hillock, opposite a row of shops and next to a beautiful art gallery. And the overwhelming stench of trash invades the air. All around hills are strewn with rubbish which flies around in the wind, and everybody ignores it, as if it doesn’t exist."

What to say about Santorini.  It was never on my list of islands to visit in spite of its popularity with so many other travelers.  Gayle had been here in the 1970s but in my previous eight trips I had not.  However the availability of a connecting flight to Istanbul opened Santorini up as a destination.  Certainly one and done.  We see no reason to return.  That is not to say there were not aspects we very much enjoyed - the Onyx Hotel was nice albeit the most expensive of our trip; Katerina's Traditional Restaurant was excellent; the black volcanic beach at Perissa an enjoyable stop and the views from and wine at Santo Winery very impressive.  But on the whole we much prefer smaller, quieter islands.

The airport was very convenient.  We dropped our car off (an easy process), checked in, and boarded our flight on schedule to bring an end to the Greece portion of our trip.


In what was essentially an 'American' breakfast the only Greek item (beyond yoghurt of course) was a Greek salad.

Pancakes seemed like a very strange thing to have on the breakfast selection but impressively, and surprisingly, they were accompanied by real Canadian maple syrup.


Right:    yours truly in the jacuzzi.

Below:  the pool as seen from the breakfast area with our room (on               the upper level) across from the pool.


Sadly, as it turns out, one of our most vivid memories of Santorini is the roadside garbage.  It was everywhere, reminding us of Morocco.  Given the volume of visitors and revenue for the island we wondered why this is allowed to happen?  Very atypical of Greek islands that are generally very clean of litter.



A few donkeys / mules.                                                        Imerovigli.


Santorini windmills.



Impressive views from Imerovigli to the coast.



October 06, 2024 - Santorini (Onyx)

We awoke to a colourful sunrise over the nearby island of Anafi, after which we went down to breakfast.

The good news is that breakfast is included although it was far from our most memorable.  Cafeteria style with no made-to-order options.  As a result the pancakes and eggs were both somewhat cold and the little sausages both cold and not very tasty.  The surprisingly good thing was that the maple syrup was real Canadian made - quite unexpected and appreciated.  The juice was not fresh (but ok) and the coffee actually quite good.  There was yoghurt, fruit, cereal (the muesli was not great), olives, tomatoes, and cucumber.  While there were croissants the rest of the bread was either plain white or whole wheat.  As said the breakfast was, in our view, just ok.  

After breakfast we headed straight to our jacuzzi where we spent considerable time relaxing in the warm waters.

Today's outing took us first to Santo Wines where we stopped just to admire the views.  Then it was on to the traditional village of Megolachori and then through Vilchada on the south coast followed by a stop and swim at the black volcanic Perissa beach.

On the way back we returned to Santo Wines where we took some time to sample a couple of glasses of wine while enjoying the views of the caldera and west side of Santorini.  While we did not stay for sunset the sun was beginning to set late afternoon.

All in all a very good day.


Megalochori was a nice stop.  A picturesque traditional village dating back to the 17th century it is home to historical mansions, old traditional houses, pirate hideaways and a wonderful square in the centre of town with taverns, restaurants and shade trees.  Spiraling out in all directions is a maze of winding cobbled streets and pathways.  The town has a history of merchants and wealthy land barons who made their fortunes exporting Vinsanto wine.  A great effort has been made to preserve the beauty and characteristics of this traditional settlement with many of the original homes that had fallen into disrepair having been restored.

Next was a drive to the south coast where we passed a number of vineyards and black volcanic beaches, ultimately ending at Perissa beach.  The beach lies at the base of Mesa Vouno Mountain, being one of the longest and most famous beaches in Santorini.  Fortunately it was getting late in the season as photos show a very well organized, cosmopolitan beach with an abundance of lounge chairs, umbrellas and other amenities including seaside cafes and bars - exactly not the kind of beach we would spend time on.  Apparently at night there are a number of lively clubs.  But at the very end, and perhaps because late in the season there was nothing but open beach with its black volcanic pebbles (for us water shoes mandatory) leading to dark blue waters over a sandy sea bottom.  Our last swim of the trip was very enjoyable. 

We returned to Santo Winery for a glass of wine overlooking the caldera and islands to the west.  One of the best decisions we made.  We got an excellent table adjacent to the glass and a great server - Thanasis from near Volos in the Pelion.  Although we considered a charcuterie plate to accompany the wine we chose to not as we figured it would ruin dinner, plus at 36 euro ($54.00 Cdn) for the cheapest plate was somewhat pricey. That said when we saw a nearby table with a plate loaded with cheese and other products we were envious.  Gayle had a glass of a recent vintage (2021) 100% Assyrtiko Selection Cuvee white wine - very nice while Norm ordered the older (2018) Grande Reserve, in part to compare the two.  Much more golden in colour and very buttery in the mouth it was delicious and no doubt worth the slight additional cost - Gayle's was 7.60 euros ($11.40 Cdn for a nice size glass) with the Grande Reserve being 11.60 euros ($17.40 Cdn).  We enjoyed a nice chat with Thanasis, admiring the towns of Fira and Oia in the distance; gazed at the cruise ships in the caldera and saw the beginnings of the setting sun.  An extremely enjoyable time very well spent.

The only down-side of the day was the amount of road-side garbage throughout our drive.  More on that tomorrow.

After returning to our hotel where we enjoyed more time in the jacuzzi, as planned we went back to Katerina's for dinner.  We were fortunate to find the absolute best / closest parking spot, literally right next to the restaurant.  We started with the Zucchini fritters with yoghurt, mint and lime dip - very nicely done.  Gayle chose the Santorini white Aubergine with fresh tomato, feta cheese and herbs.  The aubergine was well prepared. Norm ordered wisely with the Beef short ribs slowly cooked with a Vinsanto wine sauce and sweet potato puree.  Not only beautifully presented but the ribs melted in the mouth.  Being our last night in Greece we couldn't say no to a baklava for desert.  Another very nice meal we were impressed with the menu options and service at Katerina's.


Sunrise over Anafi (sorry for the quality of the photos - while Gayle's iPhone is great for close ups it is less so for distance photos; oh if only I had my camera and telephoto lens).


A morning relax in the jacuzzi.


Today I wore red because with my white beard, white hair and a bit of a belly it just seemed like the thing to do here in 'Santa'rini.



And Gayle wore blue because, well, she almost always wears blue.


Our first (brief) stop was at Santo Wines.                            From which there were views to Fira.


And the caldera including cruise ships and Oia in the distance.


And across to Nea Kameni and in the far distance Thirasia.


Spectacular views from Santo Winery.


This way to Megalochori.                                                     The village's cobble-stoned streets.


The blue-domed church.                                                                          The bell tower of the village.


Entrances to Megalochori.


Dating back to the 17th century Megalochori has a number of whitewashed buildings highlighted by nicely painted doors and windows, along with a maze of alleyways.


A few random sites in the traditional village - lace curtains; traditional wicker chairs and a cat awakening from a nap on some hay.


An attractively painted pot in front of curtained windows bordered by bright blue shutters.



Doors of Megalochori.


The (very) long black volcanic Perissa beach looking west.


Perissa beach looking east.


Relaxing on Perissa beach.


For us water shoes needed given the black volcanic stones.


We then returned to Santo Wines to enjoy a glass (each) overlooking Santorini's caldera and afternoon sun.


Gayle had a glass of the 2021 Selection Cuvee and then insisted I go big and have a glass of a nicer / more expensive wine, the 2018 Grande Reserve.


And I did - a glass of the 2018 Santorini Assyrtiko Grande Reserve.


Sun, wine and the scenic backdrop of Santorini's caldera.


Above the caldera.              Thanasis.                              A selfie.


From Santos Wines one can see the entire north-west coast of Santorini, including the ferries, cruise ships, Fira and Oia.


The late afternoon setting sun as seen from the wine tasting area of Santo Winery.

The Union of Santorini Cooperatives - Santo Wines was founded in 1911, as “Santorini Vine & Wine Protection Fund”.  Today, it consists of the largest organization of the island representing all the cultivators and counting 1.200 active members.  Santo Wines is committed to safeguarding the local traditional cultivations, producing highest quality Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) Santorini wines and food products as well as promoting sustainable agriculture development.  



Katerina's Traditional Restaurant.


Primo parking spot as seen from our table in the restaurant.


To start zucchini fritters with yoghurt , mint and lime dip.


White wine for Gayle and to start for Norm.  Then a glass of decent red with the short ribs.


Beautifully presented beef short ribs with sweet potato puree.


White aubergine with fresh tomato and feta cheese.          Baklava.


Lots of colourful twinkly lights in the pool as seen from our balcony.



October 05, 2024 - Sifnos (Niriedes) to 
                               Santorini (Onyx)

Our last morning in Sifnos before our last ferry of the trip.

In spite of breakfast not normally beginning until 9:00 am (a very civil hour) with us being required to leave by 9:15 am Thanos invited us down at 8:30 am.  We thought we would get a coffee and perhaps a few baked goods but no - the full breakfast was awaiting us.  Again no need for lunch.

We returned the car (no problem) and walked through the nice port village of Kamares to the dock where we boarded the Seajets ferry.  The ferry made stops in Milos and then Folegandros before arriving in the port of Santorini.  In my previous eight trips to Greece I had never been to Santorini.  Gayle on the other hand had visited the island in the 1970s on her European backpacking trip and thought I should experience Santorini at least once.

Bill and Linda had 'warned' us the traffic in Santorini, especially ascending the cliff from the port, was quite something.  Not only is the switchback road narrow but there are many many large buses driving up and down.

Unfortunately we missed one turn and ended up driving through Pyrgos and on to Moni Profiti Ilia high on a hill.  While providing some great views of the island it was quickly clear this was the wrong way.

We turned around, descended the mountain, asked for directions from a taxi driver at a gas station and quickly were back on track and on our way to Karterados and the Onyx Hotel & Suites which was then quite easy to find.

The exuberant Maria checked us in and showed us to our room.
 
Santorini is generally obscenely expensive.  The two most known towns in which to stay are Fira and Oia, both situated on the cliff-side with unobstructed views of the famous sunsets over the caldera.  For example the Enigma Suites in Fira, the #1 TripAdvisor ranked hotel starts at 350 euros ($525 Cdn) per night for a Studio, increasing to 750 euros ($1,125 Cdn) per night for the Signature Jacuzzi Suite.  Not only out of our price range but being on the cliff we anticipated (walking) access to be difficult.  Instead we opted for the Onyx Hotel & Suites in Karterados, rather than staying on the cliffs of either Fira or Oia.  We did splurge for the Luxury Suite with Jacuzzi at 190 euros ($270 Cdn).  The hotel is a bit sterile but new, with great staff and the jacuzzi was wonderful.  All in all a good choice.

For dinner we went to Katerina's Traditional Restaurant, recommended by both Maria at the hotel and Bill and Linda.  At 700 metres we decided to drive and were fortunate to find a reasonably convenient parking spot.  While typical Greek dishes were available the menu included a number of interesting 'up-scale' options. We started with bread and a nice dish of Tzatziki.  Gayle then had an excellent Grilled vegetable souvlaki with Haloumi cheese and a lime dressing.  Norm had the Pork roll with cream cheese, carrot and prunes served with aromatic rice, apparently a specialty of Santorini.  We enjoyed a 1/2 litre of delicious Santorini wine with our meal.  All of the food was excellent and reasonably priced.  Perhaps prices at restaurants on the Caldera are through the roof but not the case here.  Plus we received superb service from our waiter Stavros.  An excellent experience we expect we will be back tomorrow.

Upon returning to Onyx we made use of the jacuzzi before calling it a night.


Although breakfast does not normally start until 9:00 am Thanos invited us down at 8:30 am given we had to leave by 9:15 am for the ferry.


Throughout Niriedes are the artistic touches of Antha, like this wreath on a wall in our room and stone / marble (?) lemons in a basket.


A small taverna in Kamares.                                                 This cat has followed instructions.


A fishing boat in Kamares (the port harbour), Sifnos.


Our home in Santorini - Onyx Hotel and Suites.                 Our comfy 'living' area.


Our balcony overlooking the central area and pool.           The pool and breakfast area in the background.


Tonight we ate a nearby Katerina's Restaurant.                 Starting with tzatziki.


Gayle.                                                   Norm.                                                   Stavros, our waiter.


A vegetable kebab for Gayle.                                              Pork stuffed with plums and apricots.



October 04, 2024 - Sifnos (Niriedes)

Another day; another wonderful breakfast; another pottery shop; another beach and another dinner at Lembesis, our favourite taverna on the sea.

After our morning ritual of coffee and cookies (from yesterday's breakfast) on our terrace we sauntered down to breakfast where we were again filled with pastries, cheese, coffee, juice, bread, jams, eggs, yoghurt and fruit.  

In the afternoon we drove into Apollonia to visit Thanos' parents bakery / confectionary shop.  The shop is overflowing with most everything one could think of - cookies, breads, jams, honey, olive oil, capers, spices, bottled fruit and vegetables, drinks, candies and much more.  Gayle went in to take a few photos and buy two pieces of baklava.  Afterwards I decided to also check out the shop and take a few more photos, including of Thanos' father.  I ended up buying a bottle of olive oil and a couple of packages of soft candies for Paul, Erin and Katrina.  As I was leaving I was provided a 'gift' of an ice cream bar covered with chocolate.  How typically Greek.

Our next stop was Vathi for two purposes.  First we returned to a ceramics shop we had visited on our previous visit where we had purchased a plate.  The shop continues to make pottery.  In the end we bought a couple of small soup bowls.  The other reason for our stop in Vathi is its beautiful shallow harbour and sandy beach where we enjoyed yet another swim.  The drive itself was quite scenic, climbing and descending a small mountain with vistas of Platis Gialos and its harbour.

Being our last night in Sifnos there was no question we were going to return to Lembesis for dinner.  Surprisingly where the taverna was reasonably full the other night we were the only customers not only when we arrived but throughout our time.  As well plastic had been set up around most of the taverna due to increasing winds.  Regardless we decided to sit outside, with our unobstructed views of the Chrisopigi Monastery.  Not being particularly hungry we had only one dish each.  There was no doubt Gayle would again have the Rivithatha - the chick pea soup.  Once again it was delicious.  Norm went with the grilled octopus that was served sliced rather than in one tentacle.  For the price (18 euros) there did not seem like much octopus but given Norm was not overly hungry it turned out to be just the right amount ... and it was fresh and tasty.  If ever back to Sifnos there is no question we will return to Lembesis.

We returned to Niriedes where we ended another good day with the baklava.


Overlooking the harbour our day starts with a coffee and cookie, followed by breakfast - life is great.


Our room (not sure what it means).                  Flowers in a traditional Sifnian pot.                View to the harbour.


Thanos' parents bakery / confectionary shop.                      Thanos' father.


A photo of Antha, Thanos and their baby on the wall.


A wide selection of products - candies (we brought some home for Katrina, Paul and Erin), jams and pistachios which are very common here.


Capers.                                                                                Spices.


Walls full of cookies, sweets and a variety of other stuff. 


The shop is filled with various products.                               Gayle with her ice-cream 'gift'.


As mentioned Sifnos has a considerable number of olive trees and as a result there of course is Sifnos olive oil.  We did buy a half litre.


Platis Gialos as seen from the mountain road to Vathi.


Olive trees on the rock walled terraces of Sifnos.

Atsonios ceramika where in 2010 we purchased a plate and this time two soup bowls.


Vathi beach.


Monastery Chrisopigi.


For our last dinner in Sifnos we of course returned to Lembesis.


And Gayle returned to chick pea soup.                                Grilled octopus.


Another dinner enjoyed outdoors on the shores of the sea.


Returning home we had the baklava we purchased earlier.



October 03, 2024 - Sifnos (Niriedes)

Today was a pretty full day during which we returned to a number of places we visited in 2010.

But first the day started with another Niriedes breakfast after which we said goodbye to Antha who was leaving, along with Roxy their precious dog, to return to Athens to be with their daughter.  We didn't meet Antha back in 2010 as she had returned to Athens earlier given their children were much younger. 

We headed through Apollonia to the north end of the island.  Our first stop was Vroulidia beach, a secluded beach on the west side of Sifnos in which to access one has to drive two km or so down the side of a mountain.  In 2010 the road was dirt all the way.  At times we crossed our fingers we would get back up but after a nice swim by ourselves, well except for the school of jumping fish, we somehow managed to ascend the mountain.  Fast forward 14 years and most of the road is now paved.  Only the last few hundred metres, albeit the steepest section is still dirt.  We passed a group of parked cars and pushed on.  Then there were two other cars parked.  I took a look and saw a car down behind the taverna and decided to continue to push on.  The half dozen or so swimming stared up in apparent amazement.  Slowly I inched down until I reached the beach.  We parked.  We swam - the beach was quite rocky necessitating water shoes for us but the water, like elsewhere was beautiful - calm and warm.  I napped while Gayle swam again.  And then I took a deep breath, put it in first and started back up the mountain.  There was a tense moment around the first curve but after that all was good.  As I passed those vehicles that parked further up the mountain I did feel pretty good about my courage to tackle the drive.

Shortly thereafter I found a potter we had dropped in on in 2010.  Unfortunately he no longer makes the same brown with a circular swirl pottery, a few pieces of which we had purchased years ago, and then added to from a shop in Chora, Amorgos, but we did buy a nice blue plate from him.

We then reached the very north tip of the island and the small fishing village of Cheronissos. The taverna we ate at in 2010 may have been open but no one was there.  On the other hand Ammoundia was very busy, including both of the beach tables being occupied.  We enjoyed a very nice late lunch - Gayle a Greek salad and a plate of fried potatoes and Norm the Mastelo - a traditional Sifnian recipe of lamb cooked in the oven with dill and red wine.  Delicious.

The leisurely 23 kilometre 40 minute return drive the length of the island was interrupted by a few photo stops, in particular a nice group of pomegranate trees and a chapel.

We returned to Niriedes where we watched the sun set behind the mountains while drinking a bottle of Prosecco.  A very good day.



A very well loved Roxy.


Antha, Roxy and Thanos.


Breakfast at Niriedes.



Views of Platis Gialos bay from the breakfast area.


Niriedes Hotel, including some wall art and the small pool.



Even in the fall there is colour, highlighted against the whitewashed buildings.


Virtually every building in Apollonia is white.                       Except for the traditional blue dome of the church.


Lots of terraces created with stone retaining walls.


Sifnos certainly has more olive trees than we expected.


Even when there is little else one will often find a church.


The secluded Vroulidia beach as seen from high above on the main road.


The view of the bay and Vroulidia beach as one descends the mountain.


While the upper part of the road is now paved the last part to get right down to the beach is still dirt and somewhat steep.



For such an isolated, somewhat difficult to access beach it is surprising there are two tavernas - both open even in late September.


While there were a few others at the tavernas we were the only ones in the water.


In for a swim.                                                                         Water shoes needed.           Post swim nap.


Not exactly a sandy beach, but stunningly beautiful just the same.


The pottery studio, the potter, and a plate we purchased.





Right:   not exactly a world class soccer                 pitch.

Below: the coast of north Sifnos with a                  view to Serifos.
   

Fishing boats (well we are not actually sure the one on the right is a fishing boat) in Cheronissos harbour.


Right:  the water is so clear the (many) fish                   were very visible.

Below:  fishing nets and gear.


Psarotaverna I Ammoudia taverna in Cherronisos.



For Gayle a plate of fried potatoes and not surprisingly a Greek salad.


Mastelo - delicious lamb, cooked in wine and dill.                Our 'gift' of cake.


Ripening pomegranates.



Like many Greek islands there 
remain a few windmills.



Kastro, the ancient (until 1836) capital of Sifnos.


There are so many churches and chapels in Sifnos (and throughout Greece).  This small chapel is between Platis Gialos and Apollonia. 



We returned to Niriedes where we watched the setting sun ...



... and enjoyed a bottle of Prosecco on our terrace.



October 02, 2024 - Sifnos (Niriedes)

Today was our first full day on Sifnos, and is generally our custom it was a quiet day.

We started with a phenomenally large, and excellent breakfast.  Thanos' parents own a pastry shop / bakery in Apollonia from whom he provides numerous cakes, breads, pies (spinach or cheese), and other baked goods.  And this is just the start.  There is coffee, fresh orange juice, olives, tomato and feta cheese with olive oil and oregano, local Sifnian soft cheese, eggs and bacon, a fruit bowl and yoghurt with fruit and / or honey if one wishes.  In reality way too much but everything is so very good. 

The room we wanted to book was not available the first night so after breakfast we packed and moved to another larger room with a wonderful comfortable terrace on the front of the building.  The terrace comes with loungers in addition to the table and chairs and direct views of the bay, beach, town and mountains.  Very nice indeed.

Sifnos is a mountainous island of 74 square kms and a population of 2,777 (2021 census). 

The main town, near the center, known as Apollonia is thought to be named for the ancient temple of Apollo on the site of the church of Panayia Yeraniofora.  The village of Kastro was the capital of the island during ancient times until 1836.  It is built on top of a high cliff on the island's east shore and today has extensive medieval remains. The port of Kamares is located on the west coast of the island.

Sifnos has been recognized by a number of organizations including National Geographic who considered the island one of the 10 best destination on earth (2012) and Vogue's list of the 11 best paces in the world to travel (2024).  We understand why as our return quickly reminded us as to how much we enjoyed our time on Sifnos when here in 2010.

The island is interesting with its rugged, mountainous landscape, unusual amount of agriculture, especially olives (Sifnos is actually quite a 'green' island) and beautiful beaches.

In the afternoon we went down to Platis Gialos for a swim in the protected bay.  The beach is long with very soft sand.  It slopes very gently in the water leaving it shallow for a considerable distance and as a result very warm.

In terms of restaurant recommendations Antha suggested To Steki, a nice taverna set amongst tamarisk tree, on the beach in Platis Gialos.  We started with an order of cheese balls - somewhat plain in their appearance but tasty.  Just as they were served who should wander by but Patrick and Martin, the German fellows we had run into three times before.  They were also staying in Platis Gialos.  We had another nice (last) chat.  We then enjoyed our meal of chick pea soup for Gayle (good but not quite as flavourful as that at Lembesis albeit served in a nice pottery dish) and Moussaka for Norm - actually the most tasteful, best moussaka on the trip so far.

A very short drive back up the hill to Niriedes brought an end to our day.


It is really not very difficult to enjoy breakfast with these views from the breakfast area.


Fresh orange juice and the large plate of cakes, chocolate rolls, spinach pies etc. along with homemade jams.


Tomato and feta, with oil and oregano.                               Fresh Sifnian soft cheese and olives.


Far right - Thanos today (2024).

Middle right - Thanos in 2010.

Below - the full breakfast - well not really as one also has the opportunity to have eggs, a large fresh fruit bowl and / or yoghurt with fruit and honey.


A few final photos of our Superior room (first night) before we moved to one of the even larger VIP rooms. 


Some of the interior of our VIP room - lots of pillows, tasteful art and Sifnian pottery.


Our very large terrace with two comfy lounge chairs in addition to the chairs and table, overlooking the bay, beach and town.


Niriedes as seen from the beach.  Note the huge  excavation on the left of the hotel - they are in the process of expanding.



Platis Gialos beach as seen from our front terrace.


Platis Gialos beach is long and sandy with the water being very shallow, and therefore very warm, for a considerable distance.



Enjoying our deck and its views in the setting sun. 


Although not what we were used to on other islands the sun setting over the mountains. 


To Steki - tonight's restaurant choice.                  Retsina!                       Cheese balls.


Chick pea soup (again) - good but not quite as good as last night.




Moussaka - best of the trip so far.



October 01, 2024 - Folegandros (Provalma) to
                               Sifnos (Niriedes)

No doubt I should have done this upon arriving in Folegandros (or perhaps one of our early 'light' days rather than as we are leaving) but better late than never.

Folegandros is a small Greek island that, together with Sikinos, Ios, Anafi and Santorini, forms the southern part of the Cyclades.

It is a long thinnish island with a surface area of 32 square kilometres (more of less 13 km long by 2 1/2 km, on average, wide) and has 719 inhabitants (2021 census).

A map of Folegandros with Provalma, where we stayed towards the north of the island.


Little is known about the ancient history of Folegandros.  Per Wikipedia its inhabitants were Dorians.  Later it came under Athenian rule. The island contained a city-state called Pholegandros, which was sited at the modern Chora where it appeared on tribute lists between 425 and 416 BC.] The island was called the iron Pholegandros on account of its ruggedness.

Folegandros was conquered in 1207 by the Venetian Marco Sanudo and remained under the rule of Venice until 1566, when it was taken by the Ottoman Turks.

The Greeks reclaimed it in the 19th century during the Greek war of independence.  There are records of the island being visited by  British explorers in early 1884.

During the 20th century Folegandros was used as a place of exile for political prisoners, especially during the 4th of August regime from 1936 to 1941.

________________________________________________

We left Provalma and Folegandros mid morning on our Zante ferry that took over four hours completing the milk run to Kimilos, followed by Milos and finally Sifnos.  Picking up our rental car was easy and we were off for the 20 or so minute drive via the main town of Apollonia and then south to Platis Gialos and Hotel Niriedes where we stayed with Thanos back in 2010.  It was particularly nice to meet Thanos' wife Antha (meaning 'flower') who had already returned to Athens with their young children when we previously visited. 

We checked into our room (up 64 steps which was not particularly welcoming for my knees but well worth it given the views of the bay).  The room itself was very nicely designed with very tasteful art work and a small kitchenette.

There was no question where we were going to go for dinner.  When here previously we ate twice at Lembesis, a few kms away with wonderful views to Chrisopigi Monastery set out on a point at the edge of the sea.  The taverna is simple but our recollection was the food was excellent.  We were spot on.  We started with a plate of olives and white wine for Gayle and retsina for Norm.  Top marks for the taverna having retsina as not all do these days. Gayle had very fond memories of the chick pea soup (or Revithatha - a traditional Sifnos island recipe cooked in wood oven).  The soup was every bit as tasty (must be the considerable amount of olive oil) as remembered.  Norm enjoyed grilled sausage marinated with Sifnian herbs. 

A short drive back to Niriedes brought an end to a full day.



A few final images of Provalma starting with yet another colourful sunrise.


And no we never got tired of waking early to see these sunrises.


Provalma - easy to find.


Gayle and Alexandra.                                                                                            Morning coffee.


The way we all should be - relaxed.                                               Alexandra and Yiannis.



If you look closely you can see Chora perched on the top of the cliff. 


Just below the highest hill in the barren north of the island near Ano Meria is Provalma (if only I had my telephoto lens).


The dramatic cliffs of the east coast of Folegandros.


Below - arriving in the port of Kimilos.

Right - the deck chair seating on the ferry.


The west coast of Milos.



Milos' capital Plaka as seen from the west coast. 


Famous Milos fishing houses in Klima (oh how I wish I had my telephoto lens).


Plaka up on the hill and fishing huts on the shore.             The port of Adamantas, Milos.


Of course a four hour ferry ride was going to involve a nap.
    

A few goats (and a farmhand) amongst the olive trees on the drive to Niriedes.


Views of Platis Gialos bay from our balcony.


The interior of our room (for tonight) with its comfy lengthy couch, Sifnos pottery and separate bedroom.


Apokofto beach and Chrysopigi taverna (aka Lembesis) looking out to Chrisopigi Monastery, one, if not the most memorable places we have enjoyed a meal.


Recording what we ordered.                                               Happy to be back at Chrysopigi taverna.


White wine and retsina (for Norm).



We started with a plate of olives.


While listening to the sound of the waves as they reached the shore.


Revithatha aka chick pea soup.                                           Sausage with delicious fries with oregano.


Traditional Sifnos lanterns with the Chrisopigi Monastery in the background.



September 30, 2024 - Folegandros (Provalma)

If it is even possible today was a quieter day than the previous days here in Folegandros.

Our agenda was essentially the same.  We guess if one likes what they are doing; enjoys the place they are staying and the beach they are swimming why change?


On the way to dinner we stopped in to Chrisospilia Honey and Cafe and Shop, clearly a local hang-out.  We had Yannis quite confused as we asked him to open his Wifi and go to our travel blog.  We showed him to Greece 2010 where he was serving us dinner years ago.  He actually looks very similar.  

We're still not sure he fully understood but he was, as he was then, all smiles.
Yiannis - 2010                           Yiannis - 2024


For dinner we returned to Irini's.  Perhaps it was taking all the photos the other night, or just that Irini (both of them) have good memories as we were met with smiles and a warm welcome.  We sat at the same table and enjoyed another nice meal - similar to the one the other night starting with saganaki followed by a Greek salad for Gayle and lamb (this time in lemon sauce) again with matsata pasta.  We enjoyed the similar activity of Constantino running all over the place.  This feels more like a home than a restaurant.  Not only was the food very good but it was also fun.  
 
A very nice way to spend our last night in Folegandros.


Ho hum ... another morning; another colourful sunrise.



Each morning here in Folegandros generally involves three things.

1.   waking up early to see the sunrise,
2.   enjoy breakfast delivered to our room, and
3.   working away on our travel blogs.


Of course each day has to have at least a couple of beach photos, if even of the same beach we have now been at for the past three days.


Yiannis, who operated a restaurant at which we ate in Chora in 2010, now owns a Honey Cafe & Shop in Ano Meria.


A kaleidoscope of colours generated by the setting sun.


Ano Meria's church highlighted by the setting sun's light.


Irini's table covering.                                                           Irini herself.


More wall art in the restaurant / grocery store.


A large piece of saganaki.                                                              And the Greek salad.


Delicious lamb with matsata.                                               The 'gift' for dessert.


Inside the restaurant / grocery store.                                   One of the two tables outside on the street.


The family- Irini's grandson (we do not recall his name), Constantino, granddaughter Irini, and Irini.



September 29, 2024 - Folegandros (Provalma)

It is going to be difficult to say much original today.  

We again woke to a stunning sunrise.

We again enjoyed a beautiful sunny hot day.

We again enjoyed a tasty breakfast on our terrace.

We again enjoyed the property and its pool.

We again went down to Agkali beach for a swim.

We again went in to Chora where we again had dinner with Linda and Bill, where Gayle had the Greek Vegetable Medley and Norm the young lamb 'Kleftiko' cooked in the oven with potatoes, vegetable and cheese.

We again enjoyed everything we did, and didn't do today.


Another morning and another stunning sunrise, today with a few clouds to provide some texture.




Orange pie enjoyed with morning coffee.                             Low lying clouds this morning.


Alexandra.                                            Louis.                                                     and Yiannis.


The terraced hillsides looking from Provalma to the west of Folegandros.


Agkali, as seen from Provalma.


During the afternoon we returned to Agkali beach.



Tonight we ate in Chora, at Araxe ,with Bill and Linda. 


Linda in a serious discussion with the owner / chef, aka 'Bill's friend' re 'grilled' versus 'baked' vegetables.


The Greek Vegetable Medley for Gayle - ok but a tad on the overcooked mushy side.


Lamb (under the cheese) Kleftiko - very good.



September 28, 2024 - Folegandros (Provalma)

Another great, relaxing (except for one anxious experience) day in Folegandros.

Again we awoke (actually we set the alarm) to enjoy another spectacular sunrise.

After breakfast, some work of the travel blogs and a nap (remember we were up early) we drove to Agkali Beach, just down the road and then a further 1.5 kms down the mountainside.   A beach of fine pebbles the water was relatively calm as today's wind was from the east, leaving the west side reasonably calm - and the water again clear and warm.  Wonderful as always.

We decided to head to the very north end of the island to see the sunset.  It certainly did not disappoint.  

A beautiful colourful sunrise and an equally beautiful colourful sunset bookended our day. 

The only problem was that after stopping for 15 minutes or so to enjoy the show our car would not start.  Even coasting downhill I could not get it to start.  What to do?  Fortunately there was another couple on a nearby hill who stopped for us when they saw our predicament.  Dominik and Lorena from Switzerland (we have met more Swiss on this trip than likely all our previous trips total) not only called the car rental company but stayed with us until they arrived.  After 20 minutes or so - fortunately Folegandros is a small island - two fellows arrived and boosted the car.  During the time we enjoyed a wonderful chat with Dominik and Lorena about Canada, travelling etc. while we waited.  A potential bad situation turned out to be a nice experience.

We had dinner again in Ano Meria at Sinadisi, a simple traditional Greek taverna where Patrick and Martin, the German fellows we met the previous night and who took our photo at sunset were also having dinner.  Gayle had fried potatoes, aka French fries, and a Greek salad while Norm the matsata pasta with meatballs.  It was actually quite cool with a wind blowing necessitating bringing out for the first time our long sleeves.  Being outside the 'city / chora' we were treated to a 'gift' after dinner of yoghurt with a jam compote.  Interestingly this was the last night Sinadisi was open as it was closing for the season tomorrow. 

A short drive had us back to Provalma where we turned in.


Who needs sunsets when one gets to enjoy these sunrises?



Early morning light.


Another day; another tasty, fantastic breakfast.                 Including spinach pies.


An afternoon swim at nearby Agkali beach on the west coast of Folegandros.


Left the pool.

Below our room Geronimos and our terrace.


Some of the landscaping around Provalma.


The view from Provalma across the barren Folegandros landscape to Chora.


A couple of donkeys along the way.


Lots of stones / rocks means lots of stone / rock walls and terraces out here.



The glow of the setting sun over those terraces.


The sunset over Milos from the north tip of Folegandros did not disappoint.


Beautiful!



After watching the sunset our car would not start (dead battery).  Dominik and Lorena, a Swiss couple also in the area for the sunset stopped to help. Not only did they call our car rental company for us, but stayed for nearly half an hour during which we had a nice chat.  After 20 minutes or so a couple of fellows arrived to boost / re-start the vehicle.  It was very kind of them for which we were so thankful.


Sinadisi - since 1920.  


Martin and Patrick - the two German fellows we met at sunset last night.


A cool wind had us bring out our long sleeves. 



Greek salad with local cheese.


Matsata with tomato sauce and meatballs.                          A 'gift' of yoghurt with a jam compote.



September 27, 2024 - Folegandros (Provalma)

Thank goodness an early morning bathroom visit occurred at just the right time this morning as the sunrise was absolutely spectacular.  There's really nothing I can add to the photos below other than I wish I had my camera with telephoto lens - but still pretty decent photos.

Our first full day, as is often the case, is primarily spent on the property.  We enjoyed a very nice breakfast.  One chooses from a lengthy list of options the day before and Louis brings a basket at the time of your choosing with the items chosen.  Today we had spinach pies, orange and carrot cake, fresh orange juice, fruit, yoghurt, nice breads, homemade muesli, yoghurt, some ham and cheese, and of course coffee.  Very relaxing to have breakfast on our terrace.

Then it was some time in a wonderful pool with views across the open landscape to the south of the island and the main town of Chora.

We arranged with Bill and Linda to have dinner after sunset so went into Chora a couple of hours before to wander around, through the alleyways and past the churches and restaurants.  Chora provides many photo opportunities with interesting alleyways, colourful doors and balconies, sun spotlighted churches and many cats.  We eventually found our way to the north end of Chora from where there was an excellent location to enjoy the sunset.  We spent a considerable amount of time there soaking in the atmosphere and having our photo taken by a German fellow (more tomorrow).

We met Bill and Linda at Nicolas Place in the main Plaka square as planned.  We started with some Folegano Caprese - slices of toasted bread with oil, local cheese Surota, lokal cpers, fresh tomato and basil.  Then both of us had the Moussaka, Gayle the vegetarian of course and me the traditional meat version.  Both were quite good.

After dinner we wandered up to take a look at Bill and Linda's lodging Folegandros Apartments.  A very nice unit with two balconies, one on each side - well designed in order that there is always shade on one.  It was then a short walk to our car - there are parking lots on the edge of town with vehicle access to the centre restricted, followed by a five to 10 minute drive back to Provalma.


Sunrise in Folegandros - simply WOW!



... and then as the sun rises further.


The Provalma pool with views to the south end of Folegandros.


... and the island of Sikinos.



Creative Gayle made this cool rock sun design.


Breakfast is delivered to our room in a wicker basket.



There is a lengthy list of breakfast items one chooses the previous day - all fresh and delicious.


The Church of Panagia (Virgin Mary) just outside of Chora.


About to explore Folegandros' Chora.


The east coast of Folegandros.         The drop to the sea from the Plaka entering Chora.


Our choice for dinner tonight - Nicolas Place.


Churches of Chora.


A pretty bight blue door and matching blue pots filled with basilica.


Not everything in Greece is blue.       And I just like photos of the phenomenally tasty tomatoes here.


But most of the balconies are - blue painted small balconies.


Entering Kastro (the original old part) from Chora.


An elderly woman in Kastro.


Alleyways in Kastro.


Stairs of Chora / Kastro.


Cats of Chora / Kastro.


Doors of Chora / Kastro.


Waiting for the sun to set.



Beautiful shadow of a cat. 
 

Photo taken by a German fellow also, along with others, at the church for sunset.


Another gorgeous sunset.


Linda clearly did not get the email to 'wear blue'.


Folegandros bruschetta.                                                     Moussaka.



September 26, 2024 - Sikinos (Zetine Suites) to
                                   Folegandros (Provalma)

This morning we said good-bye to Fotis, Happy and Zetine Suites.  We very much enjoyed our visit to Sikinos.  It is a small quiet island - just our thing.  We liked the beaches, the dramatic landscapes, the winery experience, Chora and above all our choice of Zetine Suites to stay.

In spite of us having our own car Fotis delivered our luggage to the port and saw us off.  Service above and beyond.  The ferry to Folegandros on Zante Ferries was only 40 minutes.  We were met by the car rental company, and in a few minutes were off for the eight km drive to Provalma on the north end of the island just before the village of Ano Meria.

Provalma is going to be perfect for us.  Out in the countryside with awesome views to the sea and Chora.  Yiannis, his mother Alexandra and Louis, the always on the move staff member, are all friendly and a pleasure to chat with.  The pool is wonderful and there is easy (by car) access to a nice nearby beach - Agkali.

After checking in we went down to the port to welcome Bill and Linda.  They had arranged their own ride to their Folegandros Apartment but it was still nice to greet them.

Afterwards we drove through Ano Meria, scouting out restaurants / tavernas, to the very north of the island.  Very pretty with wonderful vistas.

We decided to eat at Irini's.  It is a small tavern with food that can be enjoyed far away from the crowds of Chora.  The tavern is housed in a traditional Cycladic building with a couple of tables on the roadside along with a number inside with its unique decor.  Irini is known for her 'matsata', a handmade local pasta, along with various dishes of meat, fava and other Greek recipes.  Mrs. Irini inherited the shop when her father died in 2001.  The shop also serves as a local grocery store.

According to Greek Gastronomy Guide:

"The cafe is like old, only then at the entrance we had a place where we sold fabrics, clothes and some kinds of innovations.  Not much money was circulating then.  The locals would come and bring their eggs and cheese, and take the groceries, coffees, detergents etc.  Others would bring some cheese or zarzavatiko bass and sell it to passers-by.  Then most of the food was ours, everyone had their own gardens."

The cafe-grocery-cooking operates from morning to night and is apparently the only eatery that operates all year.  Mrs. Irini starts cooking at noon, continuing all day to serve families throughout the winter.  Her specialty, the classic dish of Folegandros, is the bunch.  Every day fresh matsata is made, kneaded, and cooked with game, rooster, rabbit, goat or pig.

Our order was taken by and we were served by Irini - not the original but the granddaughter.  We started with a large serving of saganaki.  Gayle then had the Gemista, or stuffed tomato while Norm the lamb in tomato sauce, of course with the matsata.  All excellent

Irini's is the poster child of a family restaurant with the great-grandchild / Constantino skirting around, sort of watched by a young (perhaps seven year-old) girl (who according to Irini apparently thought I might be Santa Claus) and of course his mother.  It was a tad wild but really lots of fun.


Good-bye Happy                                                                                                 Good-bye Fotis.


About to leave Zetine Suites - thanks Fotis for the photos.


It was nice to see some old traditions still persist such as transport by donkey.


A couple of fellows at the port.


Our Zante ferry the Dionisos Solomos.                                                     


The west end of Sikinos.                                                     A lonely sailboat. 
  

The south coastline of Sikinos.                 A small rock island in the sea.           The ferry's wake.


A cast of characters on the ferry.


Including yours truly.


Our room Geronimos has a small terrace but with phenomenal views.


Provalma's pool.                                                                 The view from our terrace to Chora.


Sleeping area.


Kitchen area.                                        Interesting shower design.                  View from bedroom to 'downstairs'.


We went to the port to greet Bill and Linda who arrived later in the afternoon.


The landscape in the very north of Folegandros.                  The remnants of an old windmill.



The church in Ano Meria.


A random friendly guy along the road.                                 The vistas from Provalma.


The view back to Chora in the setting sun.


In some ways little has changed since 2010.


Donkeys, or are they mules?


We readily admit we can't tell the difference between a donkey and a mule (apparently a donkey has a flat back while a mule has a slightly curved back) but those below are definitely sheep!


Irini's in Ano Meria.


Family photos.                                                                     Irini, the grand-daughter and server.


Part restaurant; part community store.



Irini.  
     

Constatino and a girl who thought I might be Santa Claus (go figure).


Enjoying her meal.


Saganaki.                                                                            Gemista (rice and herb filled tomatoes).


Left:     Lamb in tomato sauce with                 the local pasta matsata.

Below:  Unlike past trips it is now                   rare to get an end of meal                 'gift', but out here in 'rural'                 Ano Meria we were treated               to cake.



September 25, 2024 - Sikinos (Zetine Suites)

A three beach / three swim day.

But first a little bit about Sikinos.  Part of the Cyclades Sikinos is located midway between Ios and Folegandros.  The island was once known as Oenoe or Oinoe, meaning Island of Wine in ancient Greece.  The name changed to Siconos after a son of Thoas and Oenoe.  The island was likely colonized by Ionians.

There is an ancient temple, now converted to the church Episkipi but beyond that not much else.

Much of Sikinos is very difficult to access due to the terrain, including several ancient ruins.  Nearly all of the island is covered by terraces once used for extensive agriculture.  Based on the 2021 census Sikinos had 253 inhabitants.


After breakfast we went down to the port to buy our next ferry ticket (Sikinos to Folegandros) after which we wandered over to Apolonia’s very nice beach where we enjoyed a swim.

Then early afternoon we drove the 2 km dirt road over a ‘mountain’ to Dialiskari beach, a picturesque cove where there were only two other couples.  Parking was very near the beach and while a few more pebbles it was still ok to access without water shoes.  Again the water was warm and inviting.

Where it was dusk while in Kastro / Chora last night we decided to return to again wander through the alleyways.  We had not gone far when we heard a ‘hello’.  It was the two Polish travelers – Magdalena and Wojciech (who took the photo of us) from the winery the previous day.  We chatted a while before continuing to enjoy the village.

From there it was back to St. Georgios’ beach where we planned to have a swim and then dinner.  We got one out of two as the taverna was closed.  But we did enjoy a wonderful refreshing time in the sea.  Upon returning to Alopronia we decided to eat at the taverna in the port – really the only choice unless we wanted to return to Chora.  Typical Greek taverna food Gayle had a Greek salad and fries while Norm the lamb with oven roasted potatoes - so much better than French fries.  Afterwards it was back to Zetine Suites were we packed for our departure from Sikinos tomorrow morning.


Enjoying breakfast on another glorious day.


Our swim at the beach of Alopronia (photos not great looking directly into the sun).


Sikinos' port of Alopronia.


Secluded Dialiskari beach.





Rock cliffs forming the Dialiskari bay.  


Pretty much every remote area has its church - this one Saint Nicholas.


There is an abundance of rock here on Sikinos, including a door made to look like a rock wall.


The view down to Alopronia from Chora.                                The view up the mountain to Chora.


Much to photo while wandering in to and through the alleyways of Chora.


                                                                                            Wojciech and Magdalena 


More bougainvillea.


Whitewashed buildings set against the blue sky.                Yet another church looking to 'west' Chora.


Sunlight; whitewashed exteriors; blue doors and bougainvillea - a great combination.


Chora's church in the bright sunlight.


Gayle in Chora.                   An old building.                      And an inquisitive cat (there were many).


Even into the fall there was colourful bougainvillea throughout Chora.


We retuned to Ag. Georgios but sadly the taverna was closed, leaving us to enjoy a longer swim in the calm waters.


As a result we ate at Meltemi Taverna in the port.                                    Greek salad, this time with feta cheese.


A little Greek salad for Norm.               Fries with oregano.                              Lamb with oven roasted potatoes.



September 24, 2024 - Sikinos (Zetine Suites)

Our day started with Happy delivering our breakfast to our room.  Coffee, of course; fresh squeezed orange juice; bread and jams; meats and cheese; a salad of tomatoes, cucumber, peppers and olives; yogurt with honey and granola; and hard boiled eggs with capers.  Very good and filling.

It was then off to the beach in Alopronia's harbour.  It is very well set up with a number of shade umbrellas next to nearby benches.  The sand is fine and the shallow water clear and warm.  So easy to access and so enjoyable.

The afternoon was spent relaxing at Zetine Suites, including a refreshing dip in the unheated plunge pool.  One would have thought the direct sun would have heated the water somewhat more but that was not the case.  It was not that bad once you got in but getting in and getting out were not the most pleasant experiences.

As planned we headed to the winery for a glass of wine (we actually had a flight of four of the winery's wines) as we watched the sunset.  While the restaurant is now closed there was an opportunity to have a charcuterie plate which we did.  There was one other couple, from Poland also at the winery with whom we chatted briefly.  The hour or so we spent sipping wine and nibbling on meats and cheese was wonderful.  And the sunset did not disappoint.

From the winery we returned to Kastro / Chora where we wandered through the alleyways and stepped inside the church before finding our way to To Steki, the restaurant we chose for the night.  The pita bread served was different and quite good.  Gayle had another Greek salad while Norm a half kilo of lamb chops - perhaps not as meaty as in Koufonisi but tasty.  Unfortunately, being end of season, they were out of wine, or so we thought.  When Fotis strolled by he asked about the absence of wine.  We explained there was none to which he said "No" and marched in to chat with the owner.  We guess there was very little but still some as voila we ended up with a small glass each.

From Chora it was back to the port, Zetine Suites and the end of another very good day.


Waiting for the delivery of breakfast ...                                ... and here is Happy with the goods.


A salad of tomato, cucumber , peppers, olives and feta.


... plus bread, jams, coffee, juice, meats, cheese and (not shown) yoghurt and eggs.


Trying to stay clear of the paparazzi.



Unsuccessfully.



'Enough already'.


Alopronia's sandy beach with umbrellas and benches, and very calm and warm water.



A small fishing boat in the harbour.                                     The weekly ferry schedule.


Although the plunge pool was cold I braved it and did get in (more than I can say for Gayle :-))


Kastro aka Chora.                                                                Chora aka Kastro.


The Manalis vineyards.


Manalis winery.                                       Olive press grinders                           Gayle at the winery.


An oven outside.                                   A collection of old baskets.                   A unique light fixture.


Left:      a wine press

Below:  a bottle of rose.


Sikinos embroidery.



A nice opportunity to sample a variety of the winery's wine - a white; rose; red; and sweet red.


Enjoying a flight of wine and a charcuterie plate while awaiting the sunset.




From yellow to orange to red as the sun set.



Just a couple of the churches in Sikinos' Chora.


The bells of Panagia Pantanassa.


The most famous church of Sikinos' Kastro village / Chora is Panagia Pantanassa. The church was built in 1787 and has a lovely katholikon and beautiful late-Byzantine icons.


Chora's church with bougainvillea.                                       The priest having a coffee at one of the cafes.



A nice urn in the alleyway.




Our restaurant To Steki.


This cat appeared well fed and was certainly polite and respectful.


This fellow sat in the same chair the entire time we were at the restaurant.  No doubt an institution as a number 
of locals chatted with him.


Actually quite good pita bread.                                               And the reliable Greek salad with local cheese.



Norm's half kilo of lamb chops.
    

Apparently literally the 'last' wine of the year.



September 23, 2024 - Koufonisi (Pambelos Lodge) to
                                   Sikinos (Zetine Suites)

What's worse than leaving a favourite island?  Waking at 5:30 am to catch a 6:45 am ferry in order to leave.

Today was a long one.  We were up early, as was Georgio who drove us down to the port at 6:20 am where we were treated to a beautiful sunrise before boarding our Blue Star ferry that took us via Iraklia and Schinoussa to Naxos where we arrived on time (9:00 am).

During the hour and a half we had in Naxos I decided to head over (well taxi over) to an 'iRepair' shop to see if they could look at my camera.  I didn't expect much but wanted to leave no stone unturned.  However in spite of supposedly opening at 9:30 am the shop was still closed at 9:45 am when I had to return to the port.  At least I tried.

Unfortunately the SeaJet was more or less 15 minutes late arriving in Naxos meaning 15 minutes late departing for Ios and consequently 15 minutes late arriving in Ios.  This mattered as we had only 20 minutes to make a connection in Ios to the small Maistros Santorini ferry that was to take us to Sikinos.  Fortunately the Maistros was docked less then 50 metres from the arriving Seajets.  Some anxious moments but we made it with six minutes to spare, fortunately as the Maistros departed at 11:30 am exactly on schedule.

It was an smooth 30 minute ferry to Sikinos where we were met at the port by the car rental fellow and Fotis, owner of Zetine Suites.  As our room was not quite ready Fotis treated us (and two Swiss women who had also just arrived) to coffees while he explained the things to see and do on the island.

It was then up to the beautiful Zetine Suites (we are in the Anemos room) where we were met by Happy the housekeeper, who truly seemed to be.  We settled into our large unit with a nice terrace, including a plunge pool overlooking both the harbour and up the mountains of Sikinos to Chora.

After a nap (remember we were up at 5:30 am) we headed to the east end of the island and Paralia Agios Georgios where we ate at the taverna - a traditional old school seaside taverna.  We first shared a delicious Tzatziki dip with bread.  Gayle then had a Greek salad with local soft cheese and a plate of French fries, nicely coated with oregano.  Norm had the grilled octopus, which while looking lonely on its plate, was the best octopus he has had on the trip to date.  Fresh and perfectly grilled.  As Sikinos actually has a winery we decided to have a bottle of the white wine with our meal.  It was actually quite good.  

We decided it was a bit late for a swim but vowed to return.  We drove back through Chora to the east side of the island where the winery is located.  A beautiful spot for a glass of wine on a deck admiring the sunset over Folegandros we also vowed to return tomorrow.  But we did enjoy the sunset before returning to the port of Alopronia and Zetine Suites where we enjoyed watching the twinkling lights in the port before turning in.


Sunrise over Amorgos from the dock in Koufonisi.


Below - our early morning ferry to Naxos with stops in Iraklia and Schinoussa.

Right - reconciling our expenditures with our cash.


The Temple of Apollo just outside the town of Naxos.         Lined up waiting for the ferry to Ios.


Entering the port of Ios.                                                       Leaving the port of Ios.


Leaving Ios' harbour.


Fotis treated us (and the Swiss women) to coffees upon our arrival as our rooms weren't quite ready.


Anemos - our unit at Zetine Suites.


Our terrace and plunge pool.


Looking north to Chora in the distance from Zetine Suites. 



Along the drive to St. Georgios' beach.


Our first view of St. Georgios beach and taverna.



Agios Georgios. 


We had a bottle of the island winery's white wine with our meal.


Another patron.                                         Psarotaverna Almyra.                        Anxiously awaiting our meal.


For Gayle fries (very good hand cut with oregano) and a Greek salad.


Tzatziki.                                                                               Best grilled octopus of the trip so far.


Paralia Agios Georgios.


Although the Manalis Winery restaurant was closed there is a nice terrace area where one can enjoy a glass of wine admiring the sunset.  

We will be back tomorrow to do exactly that.


Steep terraced hillsides on the west coast of Sikinos.


Sunset over Folegandros as seen from near Manalis winery.




September 22, 2024 - Koufonisi (Pambelos Lodge)

After breakfast we said good-bye to Bill and Linda as they headed to Naxos for four days.  We will reconnect afterwards in Folegandros.

We are in a bit of a routine, albeit one we very much enjoy.  In the afternoon after breakfast and some work on the travel blogs it was again down to Fanos beach for a swim.  In past years when the knees were better we would have gone to Pori beach, or Ano Koufonisi but having been there and with somewhat limited mobility we passed on the further afield beaches and stuck with the beautiful waters of Fanos.

For dinner we were going to return to Locanda & Rosmarino (L&R).  But here's the thing - when there is only one taxi on the island and Mohammed was not answering the phone we were somewhat stuck.  A bit surprisingly, and fortunately L&R actually delivers meaning we could get a couple of pizzas delivered directly to us here at Pambelos Lodge.  Again the Bufalina for Gayle and for Norm the Pancetta pizza with bacon.

In some ways it was nice to have a relaxing informal meal on our terrace.

Another wonderful day.
  

Another of Georgio's excellent omelettes; more muesli, a bowl of fruit and freshly squeezed lemonade.


Eleni taking Gayle's breakfast order.                                   The Pambelos breakfast area.


Artwork around the breakfast area.


The Collins' at Pambelos Lodge - Norm, Gayle, Bill and Linda.


Eleni, Georgio, Linda and Bill.                                                And then they were off ... to Naxos.


We know every day has included similar (Fanos) beach photos but really they never get old.


No Mohammed but fortunately Locanda e Rosmarino delivers.


We were so hungry I couldn't get photos in before the pizzas were cut and served.



September 21, 2024 - Koufonisi (Pambelos Lodge)

Another relaxing day in paradise.

Morning was again a wonderful breakfast served by Eleni with omelettes crafted by Georgio.

The afternoon was spent down at Fanos beach.  While walking to / from the beach may not be my most looked forward to aspect of the day I managed ok.  The beach / water was, as it always is, wonderful - relaxing and refreshing.

We went into Chora a bit before dinner to wander around.  On each of our previous trips there were some elderly woman along the main alleyway.  While there were a couple this time sadly those of previous visits were not to be seen.  Having been very elderly perhaps they have passed on.   

Chora is nice village dominated by the impressive church of St. George with its characteristic polygonal white painted with a blue dome and tall bell tower.  As St. George is considered the protector of the island on his feast day one can participate in the procession of his icon, followed by a festival where traditional food and wine is offered freely to all guests, accompanied by dancing to traditional instruments.  Back in 2015, our first visit to Koufonisi, we timed our trip around the festival where we enjoyed the festivities. 

For dinner we went to Amira Kai Pioto, a restaurant owned and operated by Georgio's brother.  Fortunately we arrived early (7:00 ish) as the restaurant was full with customers waiting by the time we left.  Choosing from the extensive menu (I recall 39 items) was a challenge.  We started with the fried Naxian cheese bites with a crust of nuts and sesame from Daskalia on the west of Keros by its shores.  Gayle then had the Klidoura, baked eggplant with tomato sauce, feta, fresh cherry tomatoes and parsley - very much enjoyed but too much, while Norm had grilled octopus with cherry tomato salad.  Being a nice meal we upgraded from the house wine, ordering a bottle of Piedi Rossi white, a blend of Assyrtiko / Malagouzia / Moscato grapes. 

Thank goodness for Mohammed who taxied us back to Pambelos Lodge.


Waking up to our views from our terrace across to Keros Island.         Our bougainvillea covered terrace.


Georgio.                                                                               Eleni - breakfast server.


Along our walk to Fanos beach.


An afternoon at Fanos beach.









Have you never seen a two-headed horse?                   Perhaps still not!


A few sights in Chora, including the traditionally blue painted doors accentuated by the colourful bougainvillea.









The colourful alleyways of Chora.





Chora's St. George church.






Armira Kai Pioto                   Our white wine.                  A house starter of olives and hot peppers.


Left:       Fried Naxian cheese biets with a crust of nuts                                     and sesame.

Below:    Baked eggplants with tomato sauce, feta,                                           cherry tomatoes and parsley.


Left:     Grilled octopus with tomato salad

Below:  Gifts from the house - a honey                   soaked sweet and a cherry                         brandy liqueur.



September 20, 2024 - Koufonisi (Pambelos Lodge)

Another pretty much do nothing day that started with another large, tasty and filling breakfast.

Unfortunately soon thereafter I began to not feel that well - could it have been that large, tasty and filling breakfast?  I didn't feel like walking to the beach so Gayle went on her own.  Without me she headed out further past Fanos beach and then on to and past Italida beach.  The beach, the colour of the water, the rock outcrops into the sea, the views across to Keros and beyond to Amorgos - it is all so so special, and why we have been back five times now. 
_______________________

Given the shortness of today's entry a bit about Koufonisia, a set of two islands:  Ano Koufonisi and Kato Koufonisi.  Kato Koufonisi is the main island, with hotels, restaurants etc. while Ano is a tiny island with a couple of beaches and one taverna where everything is accessed by foot or bike.   Both are part of the Cyclades, or more specifically the Small Cyclades group that includes Donoussa, Schinoussa and Ikareia.  All offer spectacular landscapes and beaches with crystal clear turquoise waters.

According to archaeological findings, Koufonisi has been inhabited since prehistoric times.  Excavations brought to light evidence that dates back to the first years of the Cycladic civilization (3100 BC to 1000 BC).  Further excavations found remains dating to the Hellenistic (323 BC to 30 BC) and Roman times (753 BC to 476 AD).

The island is 26 sq km and while there are no cars to rent there is a taxi (operated this year by Mohammed who we got to know) and water taxis.  The population (2021) was 391.

We have seen considerable change in Koufonisi since first visiting in 2015.  Way more hotels, bars and people.  It is losing some of its charm but somehow the beaches, landscape and the rustic beauty of Pambelos Lodge, let alone Georgio, keeps drawing us back.
________________________

I almost didn't go down for dinner but Gayle convinced me to have something to eat.  We walked down to Finikas, a seaside taverna where Gayle had a Greek salad and fries.  I opted for the plain spaghetti, although I did add some cheese.  The spaghetti was actually quite good.  I'm glad Gayle encouraged me to go.

The walk back to Pambelos was somewhat easier - my knees struggle considerably more going downhill as opposed to up.

After returning a short time on our terrace before calling it a night.


Bougainvillea adorn the breakfast area.


As many cappuccinos as one wants.



Moist and tasty carrot cake.


A full breakfast - ok not all of it was ours - some was Bill and Linda's.


Half a spinach pie - split with Gayle.                                      Fried eggs and bacon.


Paralia Italida, Koufonisi - so sandy with such warm and inviting water.




Giorgi IS the best - of that there is no doubt.  Note his lips are actually a fish!
  


Stuff on the wall of the breakfast area.