Spain 2026 - May 07 -> May 28, 2026
May 24, 2026 - San Martin de Trevejo (Finca El Cabezo)
Today was petty similar to yesterday in that we enjoyed a relaxing morning with another wonderful breakfast. Other than a few different cookies the difference today was jamon / ham on the toast. Delicious. During breakfast we ended up chatting with a very nice couple from Madrid - Majo and Paco, who were here at Finca El Cabejo for a weekend away. We very much enjoy meeting and chatting with Spanish travellers.
We headed out somewhat earlier in the afternoon for a bit longer drive east along the foothills of the Sierra de Gata mountains, passing through Hoyos and then Gata itself before finding our way to Torre de Don Miguel were we stopped for Sunday lunch.
We found a restaurant out in the countryside amongst the flowers and olive trees, exactly what we were looking for.
Along the way there were a number of natural pools, no doubt very much appreciated in the heat of the summer, created by runoff of water from the mountains.
Other than stops for a few flower photos it was pretty much a straight drive back to Finca El Cabezo where we spent a quiet evening including finishing the cheese cake we had not eaten the previous day.
Same toast / spread as yesterday but today with jamon for the non-vegetarians.
An orange grove near Hoyos.
Finca El Cabezo's courtyard. The five PEI ladies.
May 23, 2026 - San Martin de Trevejo (Finca El Cabezo)
Finca El Cabezo is excellent in so many ways - a great structure with a wonderful courtyard; super hosts; out in the country; fresh farm products for breakfast; cats and dogs. The only very minor issues being some traffic noise from the nearby road - not much can be done about that, and intermittent internet, that was fixed the day we left (the previous days were the weekend meaning they coud not get a technician out).
While our other breakfasts were very very good we both concluded the one here was the best of our trip. We started with freshly squeezed orange juice - oranges from the finca. Then coffee with caliente, or hot latte / milk. The highlight was toast with a tasty tomato / olive oil / oregano topping. There were farm fresh eggs and cookies / sweets from a Portuguese bakery in nearby Valverde de Fresno. And seconds on anything one wanted. A great way to start the day.
After 15 consecutive full dinners we decided to return to San Martin de Trevejo to pick up some jamon, cheese, bread and olives to have with our cider and wine - esentially a 'picnic' dinner - back at the finca.
Then a short drive through the countryside past the village of Villamiel with a short detour to the Castle of Trevejo. The castle has roots dating back to the 12th century when a Moorish fortress stood on the site. The current castle was reconstructed and built over that Muslim base during the 15th century.
The fortress was mostly destroyed in the 19th century by retreating French Napoleonic troops. Today, you can still see the remaining keep, large parts of its wall, and unique 12th-century anthropomorphic stone tombs at the foot of the castle.
But back to San Martin de Trevejo, declared a historical-artistic site for its traditional architecture with arcades of granite pillar and the 16th century Bell Tower, the Commander's House and the Circular Fountain. Besides its charming streets, the highlight of the town is the Plaza Mayor. It features a fountain in the center, engraved in 1888.
The town has many charming streets, with their cobblestones, plants lining the doorways, and facades characteristic of this type of building, projecting out onto the street on sturdy wooden beams. Some of these beams, known as 'tozones,' feature carved figures.
However, what most attracts the attention of many visitors are the streams that run through its streets, a unique feature of San Martín de Trevejo. These streams, known as arroyos or arroyus, are purpose-built channels that run through numerous streets of the town to carry water flowing down from the mountains. The purpose of this unique feature is to irrigate the vegetable gardens surrounding the village and the farmyards located behind many houses. Residents themselves can divert the flow of the streams so that the water reaches their own gardens.
Street names can be in a language that is not Spanish. Nor is it Portuguese! It's Fala, a minority languarge spoken only in three villages in the Sierra de Gata mountains: Eljas, San Martín de Trevejo, and Valverde del Fresno. It's passed down from generation to generation. Furthermore, each of these three villages has its own dialectal variant, with the one in San Martín called Mañegu.
San Martin was recognized as one of Spain's most beautiful and unique towns by being inducted into the Los Pueblos Mas Bonitos de Espana (The Most Beautiful Towns in Spain) network in 2019.
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We circled back from Trevejo to El Cazebo where we brought out our red table cloth and set up with wine, cider, lamb chops from last night, jamon, olives, country bread and a pastry for dessert. We also had a piece of cheese cake but were too full ... tomorrow. It was so perfect that when they realized what we were doing the PEI ladies decided to do the same tomorrow. We guess we are trendsetters.
Finca El Cabezo's breakfast room.
To start freshly squeezed oraange juice from the finca's oranges.
Coffee with leche caliente / hot milk.
delicious.
The Plaza Mayor of San Martin de Trevejo is the social and historical heart of the town.
There was an endless selection of cured meats.
May 22, 2026 - Trujillo (Finca El Azahar)
to San Martin de Trevejo (Finca El Cabezo)
After four nights it was time to move on. We very much enjoyed our stay at Finca El Azahar. We were very happy with our choice of room - large with a separate working area and direct access to the outdoors, convenient to the eating area. It was unfortunate the pool was not available but not surprising it was being refurbished this time of the year (apparently it is often closed in May anyway).
Breakfasts were good and the availability of dinner very convenient in light of the absence of any nearby restaurants. Some choice would have been nice but the food was traditional and good.
Laura and Angela were great hosts. Angela did not speak a lot of English but certainly enough to get by.
This was an enjoyable laid-back, restful stop with afternoon trips one day to Trujillo and the others the nearby countryside.
Our route took us north, past Trujillo through the dehesa, the small town of Torrejon El Rubio to the Parque National de Monfragüe, noted for its birdlife and castle. Indeed as we drove through this scenic area we saw many vultures hovering overhead.
We continued on towards Plasencia, turning west and north towards the Sierra de Gata mountains and San Martin de Trevejo.
The drive was for the most part flat and not particularly exciting except for the huge numbers of storks nesting pretty much everywhere.
We reached the foothils and climbed to our destination Finca El Cabezo.
The family run finca is based on a simple recipe (from the Finca El Cabezo website) -
"Take an old stone mansion with spacious bedrooms in warm colors, cozy sitting-rooms with antique furniture, beamed ceilings and open fireplaces. Add delicious breakfasts based on farm–fresh produce, followed by walks in verdant countryside among forests, crags and waterfalls. Season well with the pretty villages of the magical Sierra de Gata, one of Spain's last unspoiled beauty spots. Serve chilled."
We settled into our Junior Suite with its small little table outside in the courtyard, and immediately met Bichito, or 'Little Bug', the nicest, most polite kitty one could imagine.
Interestingly in addition to us there was another group of Canadians staying - five women from Prince Edward Island who were in Spain to enjoy some hiking. Very unusual to have any Canadians, let alone two groups.
Eva recommended a restaurant in San Martin de Trevejo, the nearest town so off we went. Parking near the square was a bit challenging resulting in us parking a bit away. More of a walk than Norm's knees preferred but we made it. Initially there was only one other table occupied - we were early by Spanish standards - by the women from PEI, but by the time we left the restaurant was pretty much full.
Gayle started with a Salmorejo, her go to soup this trip. It was again excellent. Norm had a ridiculously large serving of Puebra de Chorizo with fried potatoes, so large he actually did not eat it all!!! Then Gayle had an orange salad - slices of oranges sprinkled with smoked paprika, a few almonds, and some egg bits. Very nice as well while Norm also had a stand-by, the lamb chops ... delicious, but after all that chorizo he ended up taking a number of chops back to El Cabezo for lunch tomorrow.
It was an easy 10 minute drive back after which we immediately turned in.
And so our time at Finca El Azahar comes to an end. We very much enjoyed our choice of room, the grounds and all the birds. The informality was great as were our hosts Laura and Angela.
One last poppy on the roadside as we drove out.
Much of our drive today was through a dehesa - a traditional agroforestry and grazing landscape that harmoniously blends sparse, carefully pruned evergreen oaks (like holm and cork oaks) with vast, grassy pastures.
And Spanish bulls.
The Castillo de Monfragüe is a historic fortress located in the Monfragüe National Park in Cáceres, Spain.The castle underwent significant restoration in the late 20th century. It features a small hermitage in its courtyard dedicated to the Virgin of Monfragüe.
The ruins are perched on a quartzite ridge, with fortifications originally established by various ancient peoples and later developed through the Middle Ages.
Parque National de Monfrague
Monfragüe is a Spanish national park noted for its birdlife. It is situated in the center of a triangle formed by Plasencia, Trujillo and the city of Cáceres within the province of Cáceres. Monfragüe is also a comarca of Extremadura, western Spain.
Vultures are very common throughout the area.
Lots of freshly picked oranges.
The water troughs, or regateras, running through San Martin de Trevejo serve a vital practical purpose for the village. They are a historic urban planning feature designed to channel fresh mountain water from the Sierra de Jalama directly through the cobblestone streets to irrigate the village's vegetable gardens, orchards and corrals.
Our restaurant choice tonight - Saboris de Sempris.
May 21, 2026 - Trujillo (Finca El Azahar)
Another relaxing, quiet day with great weather. It is definately warming up, much nicer than it was when we first arrived a couple of weeks ago
Again the day started with Norm making a coffee for Gayle to enjoy in the outdoor alcove watching the Iberian magpies and other birds swoop in and out of the olive trees.
Life is pretty unexciting when the big event of the morning is visiting the chicken / turkey coop. Gayle did go for a short walk through the farm where she saw a couple stork's nests - unique in that they were in a tree with leaves rather than on the top of a building or power line standard as is most often the case. .
In the afternoon we took another drive through the countryside, today heading west and south to Santa Cruz de la Sierra, then further south to Abertura (a Spanish word for opening or gap) as it is situated in a natural pass in the Sierra de Santa Cruz between the Tajo and Guardiana river valleys between Trujillo and Merida. It is along a transit route for many animals and migratrory birds. We then continued south and east through the towns of Alcollarin and Zorita before completeing our counter-clockwise route by driving north back to Finca El Azahar.
Dinner, again by ourselves, was a white bean with mushroom soup, with some sausage in Norm's. Very tasty and filling. Then for our main courses Gayle had a cheesy vegetarian lasagna while Norm was served pork knuckle (also known as pork hock, pork shank or ham hock). The knuckle is a flavourful joint between the pig's leg and foot. Packed with collagen, bone and rich fat it breaks down into fall-apart tender meat when slow-cooked (which this was) making it a beloved cut. Norm does not recall ever having pork knuckle before but quite enjoyed the fall off the bone dark meat. Dessert was a nice piece of cheese cake.
As mentioned for three of the four nights we ate alone. The finca is a bit off a tourist route and therefore receives few guests during the week this time of the year. During the weekends this is a getaway for those from Madrid (and other nearby cities) but much less so during the week. In fact the finca is booked solid this coming weekend.
Again 20 metres to our room where Norm spent some time admiring the stars before turning in.
A perfect start to a day includes
- sun
- warmth
- a comfy chair
- a soft housecoat, and
- coffee
The Iberian magpies were everywhere.
Along with Angela here is our other host Laura.
A portion of the courtyard of Finca El Azahar.
This afternoon we took a drive to the west and then south through some rural countryside. Lots of fields, oak trees, a few cows and some old stone buildings.
We passed through a number of small towns - Santa Cruz de la Sierra, Puerto de Santa Cruz, Abertura, Alcollarin, Zorita, Conquista de la Sierra and Herguljuela.
A nice drive although not much new beyond what we have already seen in the area.
The grounds at Finca El Azahar are wonderful with olive trees, vineyards, this old wine urn, chickens and turkeys and lots and lots of birds.
May 20, 2026 - Trujillo (Finca El Azahar)
Today was much the same as yesterday - breakfast in the morning; relaxing on the property late morning through noon and into the afternoon and then a drive into nearby (10 kms away) Trujillo.
Trujillo is a small city of 8,611 inhabitants (2025), having evolved from a Roman settlement to a medieval city. From 1528 it was the capital of the province of Trujillo, which became part of the province of Salamanca in 1591, until the creaton of the province of Extremadura in 1653. Among others Francisco Pizarro, conqueror of Peru, whose equestrian statue stands in the Plaza Mayor, and Francisco de Orellana, discoverer of the Amazon River, were born in Trujillo.
Its historical importance, location, natural surroundings, and gastronomy have made Trujillo a major tourist centre. Among its monuments, some of which are protected, the castle (a former Moorish fortress), the Church of Santa María la Mayor (13th century ), and the palaces of the Plaza Mayor stand out.
The Plaza Mayor is the centrepiece of the city - a large open space with statues and monuments. After wandering around we stopped in a cafe for a drink of sangria. The best we could do was a Tinto de Verano - a 'sangria like' drink and not a bad substitue.
Upon entering the city we came across the Plaza del Toro, or bull ring dating from 1848. We couldn't get inside but the large ring was quite impressive from the outside.
We then returned to Finca El Azahar where we had dinner that started with a white gazpacho soup made of almonds. Norm then had pollo / chicken meatballs in sauce with potatoes while Gayle had pisto,a traditional Spanish vegetable stew, widely known as Spain's version of the French ratatouille. It typically consists of tomatoes, onions, eggplant or zucchini and green or red bell peppers slowly simmered in olive oil. Both were quite good. We finished with a piece of orange cake.
Tonight we were not alone at dinner as a Dutch couple - Egbertjan and Ingrid also ate at the finca. We enjoyed a wonderful, lenghty chat about our respective travels. While we have travelled a considerable amount they put us to shame, having been all over the world. A very nice couple and the reason we so much like these personal small boutique hotel / finca / cortijo options for our lodgings rather than larger and less personal hotels or Air BnBs as they provide a better opportunity to connect with other travellers..
On the left Angela and below Egbertjan and Ingrid from the Netherlands.
May 19, 2026 - Trujillo (Finca El Azahar)
Our day started with a choir of birds - consistent but very nice. It appears to be another great day with the sky blue, the sun shining and the temperatures increasing quite quickly.
We enjoyed breakfast served to us by Angela who works with Laura serving guests. We enjoyed a nice Spanish breakfast of freshly squeezed orange juice - the finca has a large supply of oranges - meat, cheese, tomato, eggs, toast, jam, yoghurt, fruit, including fresh strawberries, and pastries.
We then spent the rest of the morning and early afternoon lounging around the outdoor space just outside our room. Visually the space is filled with olive trees and vineyards. Unfortunately there was some noise from the maintenance work on the pool. As a result it was unavailable for use. Although the workers spoke no English they were friendly with their smiles and 'olas' as well as pointing out a stork nest near by.
During the afternoon we decided to take a drive through the countryside for a couple of hours. We passed through oak dotted dehesa, olive groves, a herd of goats, a number of fields of cows and a couple of small towns, in one of which, Conquista de la Sierra, we stumbled upon an old Casa / Palacio that now serves as a home to a number of storks.
With the nearest restaurants in Trujillo, a 15 minute drive away, and the food good last night we decided to again eat at the Finca. We started with a hearty Spanish soup, with meat added to Norm's, that was both delicious and filling. It was then zucchini stuffed with vegetables - not particularly attractive but actually tasted pretty decent. Dessert was a pre-prepared lemon mousse that was 'Made with Love' as we had encountered with some desserts in Sardinia.
After dinner we meandered the 20 metres or so from the outdoor eating area (we later found out breakfast is indoors as in the mornings the birds have been known to make off with unattended food) to our room to end another relaxing day.
A few photos from the courtyard.
We took a nice drive during the afternoon, clockwise to Madronera, then through the olive and holm oak forests where we encountered cows and goats.
We went as far as Garciaz before circling back through Conquista de la Sierra where we came across an old Casa - Palacio that now serves as a stork home.
We saw a herd of brown short-haired long horned goats.
The Pizarro Castle or Pizarro fortified house is a fortress-palace in nearby Conquista de la Sierra. It was built in the 16th Century by the brother and daugher of the Extremaduran conquistador Fracncisco Pizzaro. The palace was ultimately burned by the French during th eWar of Independence (1808 - 1814).
Today the remains are home to many storks.
May 18, 2026 - Valdecabelleros (Las Tejuelas)
to Trujillo (Finca El Azahar)
After a short two night stay (actually the right amount of time) we packed and moved on to our next stop - Finca El Azahar, just south of Truijullo. We loved our room (Chozo) here at Las Tejuelas as well as the beautiful property. One really feels as if they are out in nature here with essentially nothing around. The food was good as were the staff, although their ability to speak English was very limited. The only negative aspect was the unreliable internet but not a big deal.
Our drive today was relatively short - just over an hour, primarily west and then north to a finca in the countryside about 10 km south of Trujillo.
It was an easy drive through the dehesa again with wildflowers and a number of animals - predominently cows and sheep.
We easily found Finca El Azahar, a farm dating back 150 years, where Laura greeted us. The farm spans eight hectares of olive groves, vineyards and fruit trees. The rural house, with swimming pool (although unavailable during our stay due to maintenance) is situated in a typical Extremaduran 19th-century 'lagar', or traditional rustic estate of building used for the production of wine and olive oil.
The room we chose was perfect for us being on the ground floor - actually a few feet below ground level that kept is cool - with interesting design, direct access to the outdoors and convenient to the eating area.
The Finca provides the option for meals which we took advantage of. Tonight's dinner started with zucchini soup with dill and pumpkin seeds followed by a nice vegetable dish for Gayle and hake with other seafood and potatoes for Norm. Dessert was a decadent chocolate brownie. We accompanied the meal with a bottle of Extremaduran white wine that honestly Norm was not that fond of.
We retired to the songs of the many birds, particularly the Iberian magpies that were swooping in and out to the many olive trees.
Breakfast options.
According to Mr / Ms Google
May 17, 2026 - Valdecabelleros (Las Tejuelas)
Not much to talk about today as we stayed the entire day on the property. When here in 2024 we took a drive north of Guadaloupe, then west and back in a counter-clockwise loop. Quite pretty but no need to repeat it again. Like most lodgings the pool was either not ready to use for the season (as was the case here), or if so it was too cold to use.
Breakfast was quite nice. No eggs but a selection of meat, goods such as croissants, cookies, donughts, tomato sauce for toast, delicious freshly squeezed orange juice and make as much as one wanted Nespresso coffee.
During breakfast we met Ximena and Miguel, a couple from Madrid. They were very helpful in assisting us with the waitress who spoke no English. Very friendly, very nice and very helpful.
During the day we just chilled out, hanging around this spectacular property that is visually stunning. Beautiful courtyards of cobble-stones, a consistent off-pink colour scheme, lots of bright red flowers and a number of orange trees complete with fruit.
The only down side was the internet. It worked sporadically, then not at all in our room. Although Gayle could access everything Norm's netbook was blocked from email and the travel blog softwhere. Frustrating but we survived!
For dinner we started by sharing a traditional Salmorejo soup. Then Gayle had a large serving of rice with lots of tofu and red peppers while Norm had the Solomillo de ternera con patatas fritas (Beef tenderloin with french fries). Excellent. We finished our bottle of wine from last night with our meal.
Unlike our other stops we enjoyed a beautiful sunset here at Las Tejuelas before retiring.
The Las Tejuelas and grounds are simply spectacular.
May 16, 2026 - Montoro (Molino la Nava)
to Valdecabelleros (Las Tejuelas)
With a noon checkout we were in no hurry to leave Molino la Nava although we did have a lengthy three and a half hour drive (plus stops so really five plus hours) to our next stop, the Hotel Las Tejuelas just west of Valdecabelleros.
We had a final breakfast, took a number of photos of the property, packed and were on our way, although not before buying one of the hand-made olive oil dishes and being gifted a bottle of olive oil.
The drive took us back to Montoro and then north to Cardena through the Parque Natural Sierre de Cardena y Montoros. The park is known for its habitat of lynx, wolf and otter in addition to the more common partidges, hares and rabbits.
We then continued through the dehesa, a forest made up primarily of holm oaks and cork oaks with considerable pastures / scrubland. The land is generally intended for livestock, hunting and the use of other forest products such as firewood, cork and mushrooms.
We passed through Pedroche and on to El Guijo where we encountered our first storks. We recall the many storks when we were in this area two years ago so it was nice to see a number nesting with their young chicks.
From there it was pretty much due north, leaving Andalucia as we entered Castilla-La Mancha for a short while before crossing into Extremadura. It was then on to Herrera del Duque, Castilblanco and then west past Valdecabelleros to our destination Hotel Las Tejuelas where we stayed a couple of nights in 2024.
We returned to Chozo, a traditional small rural shelter or hut typically found in the mountainous or pastoral regions of Spain. Chozos were historically used by shepherds and farmers as temporary housing, places to stay overnight with their flocks or for protection from the weather.
Our room was a very large, comfortable design loosely based on the concept of a Chozo, although of course much more luxurious and comfortable.
Being a considerable distance from any other option we ate at the property's restaurant starting with some eggplant strips followed by Croquetas Verduras - very nice and creamy. Then for Gayle the Ensalada templada de queso de cabra (warm goat cheese salad). The goat cheese was excellent and it was beautifully presented with walnuts and strawberries, but the absence of dressing was a negative. Norm very much enjoyed the Secreto Iberico con chutney de manzana y pera (Iberian cured pork with apple and pear chutney). We accompanied our meal with a very nice Alborino wine - Pazo Senorans.
After a long day it was straight to our large, very comfortable bed.
In the Parque National Sierra de Cardena y Montoro one can find the protected Lynx.
Holm Oak trees, very common here on the dehesa.
Gayle had a warm goat cheese salad.
May 15, 2026 - Montoro (Molino la Nava)
Another relaxing day that again began somewhat cool at 13 C, although the forecast is for it to warm up to the low 20s.
During the afternoon we took a drive to nearby Montoro (8 kms) for another afternoon snack. Montoro is located of the Guadalquivir River.
Summers are scorching in Montaro with the average maximum summer temperature being the highest in all of Europe in the last 17 years. Recently the average maximum temperature has exceeded 38 C in July and August. Temperatures above 40 C occur very often every year, with the highest being 47.4 C (117.3 F) on August 14, 2021, one of the highest ever recorded in Spain. Only last year (2025) Montoro broke Spain's all-time record by recording more than 40 days with maximum temperatures above 40 C, including 17 consecutive days of which 9 consecutive days were above 42 C. In other words it was very hot last summer!
Not that we would ever want this level of heat but we could do with a bit more than highs in the low 20s that we have been experiencing.
Our snack destination was John's Corner, a Cerveceria that had a leaning to Mexican food. We were able to get glasses of sangria (not bad but not as good as yesterday's) and a nice sized plate of nachos with guacamole and salsa. Just enough to get us through to the 8:00 pm dinners here in Spain.
We returned to the Molino where after a restful late afternoon we again had dinner. Tonight's meal started with a couple of empanadas and then skewers of cheese and tuna. Both being not suitable for Gayle they brought her some tasty goat cheese slivers. Gayle was going to have the spinach and chick peas but again they did not have them so went with the paella verduras. Unfortunately it was somewhat dry rather than juicy like a great paella. Norm was so pleased with the lamb chops the previous night he went back to the same order tonight. And again they were great. We finished with ice cream but this time one scoop of chocolate and one of lemon.
It is wonderful to have a restaurant on the property, making it so easy and quick to return to our room.
During one of Gayle's walks she came across this beautiful gated property. Turns out this too is a molino (Spanish for a mill or a grinder).
Enjoying a plate of nachos with guacamole and a salsa.
May 14, 2026 - Montoro (Molino la Nava)
Being our first full day at Molino la Nava we knew we were going to do very little
However a bit about Molino La Nava, a carefully restored 18th-century olive oil mill nestled in the Sierra Morena foothils, just outside Montoro. The property has a number of historical and architectural highlights, including
- 18th-Century Origins: Originally built in the 1700s, the mill was at the heart of the region's agricultural production, surrounded by vast, centuries-old olive groves.
- Preserved Machinery: During its restoration into a hotel, original structural features and milling machinery were carefully preserved. Historic millstones, silos, and presses are still visible, serving as unique decor in the property's dining areas.
- Thematic Rooms: The accommodation features eight uniquely decorated rooms. Seven of these are named after specific varieties of olives native to the region, honouring the land's deep-rooted olive oil heritage. The eighth, where we stayed, is named Stargazer due ot the excellent opportunity to observe stars in the area.
During breakfast we chatted with Brad and Marianne, a couple from Phoenix, Arizona about our respective travels. They arrived late last night for a one night stop on their way from Madrid to Seville. Most of the guests here are Spanish, although there was a German couple from Bavaria the first night.
We decided to take a short afternoon drive to the nearest restaurant (8 kms distance) for a light mid afternoon snack. The place was perfect in that they served sangria along with a cheese spread for the bread, a plate of olives and a large serving of french fries. While eating we enjoyed watching a young child bottle feed a small goat.
For dinner we started with some flamenquin - a traditional dish from Cordoba made with slices of jamon serrano wrapped in pieces of pork loin, coated with breadcrumb batter and deep-fried. Being meat Norm had to eat them all. Then for our main courses (we skipped appetizers tonight having had the afternoon snack) Gayle had a delicious Salmorejo - a traditional gazpacho-style soup of Cordoba. Also known as ardoria or ardorio, it is a traditional cream originating from Cordoba made of tomato, bread, extra virgin olive oil and garlic. The salmorejo is served cold and may be garnished with diced Spanish iberico ham (Gayle's was not) and diced hard-boiled eggs. Norm ordered a reliable option - Chuletas de cordero / lamb chops, very nicely paired with Lindes de Remelluri, a Rioja wine of Tempranillo / Garnache / Graciano / Viura grapes. They were tender and very tasty, accompanied with fried potato slices. Afterwards we shared two large scoops of Helados chocolate / chocolate ice cream with tasty chocolate chunks embedded.
With our reservation came a bottle of sparkling wine, delivered by Ana to our room after dinner.
All in all a good day.
A few more of the olive mill artefacts - essentially a mini-museum in the dining area.
May 13, 2026 - Albolote (Cortijo del Marques)
to Montoro (Molino la Nava)
Today is a 'real' moving day as we leave Cortijo del Marques and head a few hours north to Molino la Nava near Montoro, about an hour east of Cordoba.
After a final breakfast provided with flamboyance by another wonderful server Veronica, we packed and prepared to depart.
We have again enjoyed our stay here at Cortijo del Marques. The property is spectacular, the staff wonderful (gracias Melissa, Alica and Veronica) and the food creative and delicious. Eilke and Silvia are great owners, always having the time to chat with us (and other guests). We very much enjoyed returning - this was our fifth stay - and hope to be able to again come back some day.
In 2024 the MICHELIN Guide revealed One, Two, and Three Key distinctions for the most outstanding hotels in Spain. 'Keys' for hotels are equivalent to 'Stars' for restaurants based on five criteria - excellence in architecture and interior design, quality and consistency of service, overall personality and character, value for the price, and a significant contribution to the guest experience in neighborhood or setting. The Cortijo del Marques was awarded One Key recognition. In all of Spain five hotels were awarded Three Keys; 12 Two Keys and 80, including Marques, One Key.
Michelin's comments on Cortijo del Marques in awarding the Key.
"The idea of the country house hotel might not be as familiar in Spain as it is in England or France, but Cortijo del Marqués is proof that there’s nothing preventing them from operating at the highest level. This Andalusian country manor offers an escape that’s practically unique; half an hour outside of Granada, it’s quiet, surrounded by olive groves, full of ancient charm thanks to its beautifully preserved stone architecture.
It’s been kept up to date, but not quite redesigned, and while its comforts have been modernized, its atmosphere hasn’t. You can see occasional signs of the work of a contemporary designer in the interiors, but it’s unobtrusive, and only serves to accentuate the luxury — bathrooms, in particular, are one area where modern hospitality unambiguously has the advantage.
With just fifteen rooms it’s still small enough to feel like a private residence, each one different, some located in the old house, others the granary or stables. Its facilities are similarly modest, amounting to little more than an outdoor pool lined with loungers and a restaurant where a three-course dinner is created from locally sourced ingredients and produce. Cortijo del Marqués is a low-key, high-end escape, and one of southern Spain’s best-kept secrets."
It’s been kept up to date, but not quite redesigned, and while its comforts have been modernized, its atmosphere hasn’t. You can see occasional signs of the work of a contemporary designer in the interiors, but it’s unobtrusive, and only serves to accentuate the luxury — bathrooms, in particular, are one area where modern hospitality unambiguously has the advantage.
With just fifteen rooms it’s still small enough to feel like a private residence, each one different, some located in the old house, others the granary or stables. Its facilities are similarly modest, amounting to little more than an outdoor pool lined with loungers and a restaurant where a three-course dinner is created from locally sourced ingredients and produce. Cortijo del Marqués is a low-key, high-end escape, and one of southern Spain’s best-kept secrets."
After saying adios to Silvia we were on our way.
The drive to our next stop took us north-west past Alcala la Real and through the Andalucian countryside covered with olive groves. And more olive groves. And more olive groves. As far as one can see.
Spain is the world's largest producer of olive oil responsible for roughly 40% to 50% of global production annually.
Producing 1.3 to 1.5 million tonnes of olive oil a year, Spain, and specifically its Andalusia region, holds the top position, far exceeding other major producers like Italy, Tunisia, and Greece.
Andalusia, Castilla-La Mancha, and Extremadura are the primary Spanish olive oil producing areas.
We arrived at Molino la Nava, just outside Montoro about an hour east of Cordoba, late afternoon, checking into the Stargazer Suite, a very large room. This is apparently one of the best areas for being able to observe stars.
For dinner we were first offered some croquettes - meat so Norm had to eat both. As soon as Burrata was mentioned as the special of the day Gayle's decision was made. A huge ball of fresh burrata it was so delicious. Norm started with Ana's chicken and ham croquettes followed by a large serving of Iberian pork sirloin with pine nuts and sweet wine sauce, accompanied nicely with a half bottle of Rioja red wine.
After a lengthy drive it was back to our room and soon to sleep.
A half bottle of Marques de Caceras, a Rioja wine with dinner.
A unique ceramic 'bowl' with salt in the centre surrounded by olive oil with the bread for our meal.
May 12, 2026 - Albolote (Cortijo del Marques)
Today is moving day - not to another lodging but to another room. When we booked Terraza was only available for four nights. We had an option to move just down the hall to Senorial or leave and head to another stop. We choose the former. Senorial was the bedroom of past Cortijo owners, since redesigned in its clasical structure. The bathroom features a freetanding bathtub. From the small (Juliette) balcony one has a nice view of the front courtyard and surrounding landscape. The room is a tad larger than Terraza and comes with two comfy wingback chairs, but of course does not have the terrace.
We decided to take a 'road trip' today - not long but an opportunity to see some of the surrounding countryside. In addition to the kilometres and kilometres of olive groves we came across a number of fields of wildflowers including one beautiful one highlighting red poppies near the village of Venta de Andar. The drive was pleasant, passing a lake / reservoir and then with views of the snow capped Sierra Nevadas.
It was again a bit cool to sit outside so we spent the late afternoon in the lounge enjoying a sangria and Alhambra cerveza (beer) especial.
Then our final dinner. We started with a very tasty Baba ganoush, a dish of eggplant, tahini, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and salt sprinkled with some paprika. Delicious. Then Lentejas al curry con chirivia y chorizo (Lentils with curry, parship and chorizo (except for Gayle)). Perhaps Gayle's favourite dish of our stay which is saying something given the many creative and tasty dishes she enjoyed. For our main courses Norm had Bacalao con pimiento brasedo y salsa de calamar (Filet of cod fish with barbecued peppers and squid sauce) while Gayle was served Seitan - a plant based meat substitute made from hydrated gluten. Dessert was Hojaldre caramelizado con chutney de mango y chocolate rallado (Carmelized puff pastry with mango chutney and grated chocolate). We accompanied the meal with a white wine from the Granada area. Eilke recommended one from north-east of Gaudix that was indeed very nice.
As was our after dinner habit we retired to the lounge to finish our wine and enjoy our last evening here at Cortijo del Marques.
The bed. The tile flooring. The tub in the bathroom.
Today we decided to finally take a short day trip - a counter-clockwise circular drive just to see some of the nearby countryside. Of course there were olive groves as far as the eye could see but also many flowers, including this toadflax aka butter and eggs and many red poppies.
The starter of lentils with curry, parsnip puree and chorizo (of course no chorizo for Gayle).
Good to the very last bite, perhaps Gayle's favourite dish.
Alice and Melissa, our two wonderful evening servers.
May 11, 2026 - Albolote (Cortijo del Marques)
Today was another quiet day spent entirely at the cortijo. The weather was a tad better although still quite cool / cold at 7 C when we first awoke. But at least most of the day was spent in sun with enough warmth to sit out in the courtyard late afternoon.
We started by taking a drive to the highway in search of bunnies that we had seen when we arrived. We counted 20+ but they are so quick racing across the road it was impossible to get a photograph. We were however again treated to the colour of the wildflowers along the roadside.
After breakfast Gayle went for a walk in the olive groves. Although she had a rough map there were times when the Cortijo was out of sight that she was a bit unsure, but in the end found her way back - thank goodness no search party needed.
During the afternoon we wandered the property capturing photos of the Patio de los Naranja (Orange Tree Courtyard), the pool area - surprisingly busy although no one was actually in the pool, and the chapel. Then after working on our travel blogs we enjoyed a sangria, actually quite good, and a glass of wine, along with a bowl of olives in the sun in the courtyard.
Soon it was time for another excellent dinner - creative and delicious. Our meal started with Rabanitos encurtidos suaves (mildly pickled radish), definitely the weakest dish of our stay. This was followed by a colourful / nice Ensalada de judias verdes y hortalizas con vinagreta de mostaxa ligera (Salad of green beans and lettuce hearts with a light mustard dressing). For the main course Norm enjoyed Medallones de cordero con hierbas, patatas paja, manzana y clabacin (Local lamb medallions with fresh herbs, shoestring fries, apple and courgette. Lamb is Norm's favourtie meal and this certainly did not disappoint. Gayle on the other hand had an interested pastry (she called it a 'top hat') filled primarily with ricotta cheese along with some broccoli. Dessert was superb being a Sorbete de cava brut nature con fresas (Sorbret of brut nature cava sparkling wine with strawberry). As Gayle said "You had me at 'cava' and 'strawberry'".
As was now our custom it was back to the comfy chairs to listen to more wonderful flamenco music before returning to our room to bring the day to a close.
A plate of for breakfast. A tostado with tomato spread, cheese and meat.
And a few horses (able to photograph) and a number of bunnier (not able to photgraph).
those days when it is actually sunny). Our first couple of days were not great but the sun did shine and the temperatures rose during our last full day with access to the terrace.
Cortijo del Marques has its own chapel dating back to 1878.
Afternoon in the courtyard with a bowl of olives, accompanied by a glass of wine (Norm) and some pretty good sangria (Gayle).
May 10, 2026 - Albolote (Cortijo del Marques)
Somewhat of a repeat of yesterday with the weather still not cooperating - cool with a high of 16 C and again a few light showers. As a result we stayed put at the cortijo, relaxing and enjoying the beauty of this place.
Another filling breakfast started the day including the local Pan Con Tomate, a traditional Spanish toast comprised of crunchy toasted bread normally rubbed with garlic, topped with ripe juicy tomato, and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil.
Although we did virtually nothing, the rest of the day passed by as we worked on our respective travel blogs and lounged in the lounge with a fire on listening to flamenco music. For us this was a near perfect vacation day, although a little more warmth would be welcome.
It appears dinners alternate between fish and meat. The first night was hake, then Iberian pork and now tuna. We started with a large (cut in half) but tasty Brocheta de champinones al Jerez (mushroom macerated in sherry) followed by Semifrio de aguacate y manzana verde a la menta (Semifreddo of avocado, green apple and fresh mint). The main course was Dados de atun en brocheta especiados con corona de fattoush (Chunks of tuna fish with Moorish spices on a skewer with finely cut vegetables). In place of the tuna Gayle had tofu. Finally for dessert a delicious Bienmesabe de almendras sobre almibar de cafe (Honey and almond dessert with a coffee emulsion) - also delicious.
Then as has been our practice over to the couch to sit by the fire listening to more wonderful flamenco music before calling it a night.
Nothing better to start one's day than freshly squeezed orange juice.
A selection of other juices and fruit.
May 09, 2026 - Albolote (Cortijo del Marques)
The weather is far worse than we expected - cold with a few intermittent showers. A good day for staying put.
Cortijo del Marques is a Michelin recommended hotel that has received Michelin Key status with the conclusion that "Cortijo del Marqués is a low-key, high-end escape, and one of southern Spain’s best-kept secrets."
First, some history of the Cortijo del Marques from their website.
"The Cortijo del Marqués is a property with a rich history, located in the countryside just outside Granada. Its history can be demonstrably traced back to the 16th century. However, the Roman millstone found in the Patio de los Naranjos (Orange Tree Courtyard) suggests a potentially much earlier history. After the reconquest of Granada in 1492, the Muslims who remained in the area were forced to surrender two-thirds of their land to the Catholic victors. In 1532, a vast agricultural estate of several thousand hectares at the foot of the Sierra de Pozuelo was transferred to the Marquis of Mondéjar, and from then on, this property would be known as the Cortijo del Marqués.
The full name of the Marquis of Mondéjar was Luis Hurtado de Mendoza, and he was the Captain General of the Kingdom of Granada and Governor of the Alhambra. He inherited these titles from his father, Íñigo López de Mendoza (El Gran Tendilla), who played a crucial role in the Battle of Granada. Luis was an early supporter of the throne of Charles V, with whom he became close friends during the honeymoon of the Holy Roman Emperor. Due to his proximity to the emperor, he obtained prominent positions, such as overseeing the construction of the Renaissance Cathedral of Granada and the Palace of Charles V in the Alhambra.
At the beginning of the 19th century, the Cortijo del Marqués passed into the hands of a local family and continued its role as an impressive agricultural estate. In 1878, the large chapel and the farmhouse tower were built, and the property began to resemble a small village more than a traditional farmhouse. In 1880, the "Iglesia del Marqués" (Church of the Marquis) received full church rights through a papal bull bearing the seal of Pope Leo XIII.
During the Spanish Civil War, the Cortijo del Marqués served as barracks for the Republican forces, and the chapel was damaged by a projectile from the National artillery.
Towards the end of the 20th century, the farmhouse was abandoned and rapidly deteriorated. Despite its glorious past, only the locals were aware of its existence until careful restoration began in the early 21st century. The restoration work to convert the farmhouse into a small rural hotel. Many original features were preserved, resulting in a farmhouse with the feel of a stately Andalusian home."
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Our day starts with a buffet breakfast. A glass of fresh squeezed orange juice, lots of coffee, eggs (fried, scrambled and hard boiled), bacon, chorizo, sausage, croissants, a variety of breads, two local cheeses among other options. Knowing we were not going anywhere today we enjoyed a leisurely, lengthy breakfast.
Afterwards we returned to our room where we worked on our travel blogs and still being somewhat tired from the previous day each had a noon sleep.
Mid afternoon we headed to the lounge where a fire was on - did we mention it was unusually cold for May - and flamenco music playing. We finished our wine from last night with a few olives and tapas. Very restful and enjoyable.
We stayed until nearly 7:00 pm before returning to our room to get ready for dinner. Dinner in Spain generally does not begin until 8:00 pm as is the case here at Cortijo del Marques.
Tonight's menu started with an Apertivo of Tartar de remolacha con tierra de aceituna sobre tosta (Toast with beetroot tartare and ground olives). Quite spicy. Then for the starter we were served Lingote de calabacin con veloute de especias y vinagreta de fresa (Courgette with spice veloute and strawberry vinaigrette). For Norm's main course he had Secreto a la brasa con pure de guisantes y cherrys confitados al romero (Barbecued Iberian pork with puree of peas and confit of cherry tomatoes) while Gayle was served a thin phyllo roll with spinach and chickpeas - a dish she is still raving about. Dessert was a Brownie con helado de romero y nuecas (Brownie with rosemary ice cream and walnuts).
We enjoyed a bottle of Muga Rose 2024 with our meal.
Like last night the servings are not huge but just enough. Unusually Gayle finishes everything she is served With four courses we are both full but not stuffed at the end of the meal.
Afterwards we again retired to the comfy chairs in front of the fire place and listened to more flamenco music while chatting with a Dutch couple.
A nice selection of jams and honey. The orange is particularly good.
In the hallway outside our room not only is there attractive tiling but Romeo, the cortijo's house cat.
Left: the chapel as seen from our terrace.
Below; the courtyard, again from our terrace.
May 07 / 08, 2026 - Halifax to Montreal to Madrid to Granada
to Albolote (Cortijo del Marques)
With my worsening knees (I am having my left knee replaced June 17th) we decided not to take an early April trip this year. But once the timing of surgery was known we bit the bullet and booked three weeks to Spain in May.
The trip started well with a smooth flight to Montreal followed by an afternoon in the Air Canada Maple Leaf lounge where we met and chatted with Dina and Danny from Dundas. They were on their way to Spain and then Faro, Portugal for a wedding.
Things started to go wrong when the flight was delayed an hour due to a lavatory problem. Not a big deal - just less time in the lounge in Madrid. Upon arriving my hobbling and walking stick got us assistance with the new European Entry Exit System registration. A good thing as was the case when applying for Nexus the system had difficulties registering Gayle's finger prints. But finally success and we were through, got our boarding passes, dropped off our bags and headed to the Priority lounge that we enjoyed two years ago, now looking forward to fresh orange juice, tortilla and a wealth of other spanish goods.
However upon arriving we were denied entry as our boarding passes to Granada indicated we were 'Stand By'. News to us so off we went to the Iberia customer service. Although our booking stated a 'front Seat was Included' apparently that was not enough to guarantee us a seat. We were told the flight was sold out, with all seats assigned, i.e. there was nothing that could be done but cross our fingers and hope. The next flight was not until the evening, and it too was sold out. Our back up plan was to rent a vehicle and drive the 4 1/2 hours to Granada.
An hour before the flight we were told all but four passengers had checked in. We were quite worried but after all others boarded we (and one other fellow) did secure seats, albeit with a hand-written seat assignment. But we were on board, very relieved.
We landed in Granada a bit less than an hour later, picked up our rental vehicle and drove north of Granada and then towards Jaen to our 'home' for the first five nights - Cortijo del Marques.
This is our fourth time at the Cortijo, first in 2013 (actually 2 stays), 2017, 2024 and now again in 2026. It is kind off nice to be 'known' when emailing to inquire about returning.
We were wondering whether the wildflowers would still be in bloom in May. No worries as the red poppies, along with many other thistles and flowers coloured up the countryside.
Having been here a number of times we easily found our way to the Cortijo.
Tonight's meal started with Ajo blanco con tierra de almendra y uvas (a cold almond and garlic soup with ground almonds and grapes). Absolutely delicious. Next came Cogollo braseado con vinagreta de pimiento y praline de anchoa y parmesano (grilled lettuce heart, pepper vinaigrette and praline of anchovies and parmesan). Gayle's of course was without the anchovies. Norm's main course was Merluza de pincho con patata chafada y emulsion verde fresca (fillet of line-caught hake fish with smashed potato and green emulsion) with Gayle was served Glazed tofu on spiced aubergine with yoghurt and lemon sauce. While Norm prefers meat over fish the hake was good and beautifully presented. For dessert we had a Pera al vino, crema montada y chocolate blanco (Pear in red wine, Chantilly and white chocolate) - again outstanding. We accompanied our meal with a lovely Albarino wine from Galicia. If all meals will be as good as this we look forward to another four nights of dinners here at the Cortijo.
After dinner we moved over to the couch in front of the fireplace where we sipped our last glass of wine listening to some wonderful flamenco music. We ended up chatting with Michelle and Andrei, from Toronto who were doing the same. Other guests are quite engaging including Kim and Glenn from Caledon, Ontario who were at the adjacent table to us. They are spending a week here, having chosen del Marques based on its reputation for excellent meals.
A great start to our trip.
We started with some bread and olive oil from Granada.
Our wine choice tonight was Zarate, Albariño 2025.
Spain - May 07, 2026 to May 28, 2026
This year we decided not to go to Spain during the first two weeks of April as we had done the past two years.
Rather, after 'tax season' and before my knee replacement currently expected mid-June we booked a three-week trip in May.
This year's trip will start just north of Granada, then working west and north through Andalucia and Extremadura before swinging back to Madrid.
We are flying through Montreal, then to Madrid and finally on to Granada where we will pick up our rental car. We will be staying
- 5 nights at Cortijo del Marques north of Granada, where we have stayed three times before, then
- 3 nights at Molina La Nava, near Montoro, after which
- 2 nights at Hotel Rural Las Tejuelas, between Valdecaballeros and Guadalupe in Extremadura, where we stayed in 2024, followed by
- 4 nights at Finca El Azahar, near Truillo, and then
- 3 nights at Finca El Cabezo, near San Martin de Trevejo, and finally
- 3 nights at Hotel El Nabia, near Candeleda in the province of Castilla y Leon a bit over two hours west of Madrid's airport