Our memories of
Costa Rica 2025
Yet another great and interesting trip to Costa Rica, our 8th in the past nine years, with a number of wonderful memories, including:
- gorgeous sunsets at Playa Avellanas, Casa Caletas, Rancho Capulin, Pacific Edge and Playa Matapalo
- people and pelican watching on the beaches at sunset
- yet another wonderful meal and chat with Maite at Exotica
- the sounds of the insects, birds and howler monkeys, especially at Soul Shine
- Gayle getting up and out well before sunrise on a regular basis to listen to wildlife
- returning to Jardin de los Monos where the monkeys are plentiful and playful and the sloths visit frequently
- seeing and being able to take decent photos of momma sloth and her baby at los Monos
- the french toast (and other breakfasts) at Soul Shine
- having our tire repaired
- Gayle's Italian birthday dinner at Il Rustico
- eating at a couple of 'sodas' in Playa Samara as well as Soda Pena with its stunningly colourful birds
- the poolside coatis at Pequeno Gecko Verde
- the attempted heist of Norm's camera bag by a robber raccoon
- the Costa Rican 'Gallo Pinto / Typico' breakfasts
- the abundance of fresh fruit, fruit drinks and smoothies
- leaving beanies with Stephanie at Casa Caletas to deliver to nearby schools
- the jaccuzi and views to the ocean beyond the estuary from Casa Caletas
- live music at Mar e Fuego and Casa Caletas
- the pulpo ceviche at Soda Perla, Playa Samara
- Playa Carillo and swimming in the very warm ocean
- the drive from Casa Caletas to Ylang Ylang including crossing three rivers (thank goodness for the 4 x4)
- our wonderful Dome in the lush vegetation of Ylang Ylang
- the sound of the surf at Ylang Ylang and Los Monos
- the frequent (flying) monkeys (Soul Shine; Casa Caleta; Ylang Ylang; Pacific Edge; Los Monos)
- my 'special' of shrimp and tuna at Las Tekas Marisqueria - both how good and expensive it was
- reconnecting with and receiving the thoughtful note / welcoming wine and chocolate of Sid and Michaelynn
- the views over the jungle / tropical forest at Ylang Ylang and the coast at Pacific Edge
- the laid back vibe of Pacific Edge
- we say it every year but Sid's delicious banana pancakes for breakfast
- dinner at Gusto - there is surprisingly excellent Italian food here in Costa Rica
- reconnecting with Lettika, Gijs, Dama and Teddy at Jardin de Los Monos
- others we met but especially Brian and Penny; Sally and Fraser
- daily fresh fruit and fruit drinks / smoothies
- dinner (steaks; gnocchi and pizza) at the Matapalo Supper Club
- re-connecting with Daniel and Darlenny
- Norm's broken / disappearing mouse - we're convinced it was a monkey
- seeing an opossum for the first time at Jardin de Los Monos
- Gayle getting bit by fire ants
- the early (5:00 am ish) morning birds; afternoon monkeys and the sloth at Jardin de Los Monos
- Gayle finding a sloth on her own
- spotting a few beautiful blue morpho butterflies
- parrot palooza in Alajuela
- (almost) daily swims, most often in lodging pools
- the floral beauty, gardens and butterflies
- hard to believe we could chill out and relax more than in past years ... but we did - and weren't bored once
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We encountered a number of sloths at the Hampton Inn (gift shop). We brought back the one in the middle for each of our grandchildren. On the right are colourful tree ornaments we will be gifting to family.
Expenses (based on average exchange rates of 1 US$ = $1.4094 Cdn, and
1 Cdn$ = 353.62 colones):
Here are the costs of our 24 day trip:
$ 2,260 airfare, including seat selection
$ 6,831 lodging ($263 Cdn $ per night)
$ 2,500 food ($96 Cdn $ per day for dinner etc. including wine); breakfasts are included in lodging
$ 2,526 vehicle ($2,288 or $91 per day for the vehicle; fuel and tolls of $238 or $10 per day)
$ 144 souvenirs
$ 0 tours
$ 236 miscellaneous - primarily tips
$14,497 for 26 days
The total cost excluding airfare and souvenirs (i.e. lodging, food, entrances, vehicle and miscellaneous) was $12,092 or $465 per day.
Following are the average costs of our previous trips to Costa Rica.
- $383 in 2017 (17 days)
- $410 in 2018 (5 days - then on to Panama)
- $325 in 2019 (19 days)
- $345 in 2020 (24 days)
- $767 in 2022 (15 days) - reflecting the considerable costs at Golfo Dulce Retreat
- $426 in 2023 (21 days)
- $505 in 2024 (24 days)
- $465 in 2025 (26 days)
Food and drink continues to be relatively expensive in Costa Rica, along with vehicle rental. One might expect in a Central American country food to be cheaper than here in Canada. While there is the option to eat at less expensive local 'sodas', prices in restaurants and even supermarkets are generally comparable to, if not more than Canadian prices. Vehicle rental, which was quite reasonable pre Covid-19, skyrocketed in 2022 with prices more than 3 x what they were as recently as 2020. The vehicle rental costs decreased considerably the past three years year but were still nearly double what we paid in 2020.
Following is a comparison of prices the past few years
Lodging Food Vehicle
2023 $230 $ 91 $102
2024 $281 $110 $ 93
2025 $263 $ 96 $ 97
Lodging ranged from a low of $120 US$ (Pequeno Gecko Verde) to a high of $356 US$ (Ylang Ylang). Most rates include breakfast (breakfast is optional and additional at Soul Shine and Pacific Edge).
Here is a list of where we stayed, the amount we paid (in US$) and a link to their website.
$ 150* SoulShine Playa Avellanas www.soulshine.com
$ 120 Pequeno Gecko Verde Playa Samana www.pequenogeckoverde.com
$ 235 Casa Caletas San Francisco www.casacaletas.net
$ 356 Ylang Ylang Montezuma www.ylangylang.com
$ 130 Rancho Capulin Capulin www.ranchocapulin.com
$ 168* Pacific Edge Dominicalito www.pacificedge.com
$ 160 Jardin de Los Monos Matapalo Beach www.jardindelosmonos.com
$ 172 Hampton Inn Alajuela (SJO) www.hamptoninnalajuela.com
* excluding breakfast
As is our practice we communicate and book directly with each place, and in doing so save the establishment the booking commission. As well often we are known to staff when we arrive.
A reminder of our observations if visiting Costa Rica:
- always rent a 4 x 4 SUV if only for the greater clearance, and
- if driving, never arrive for the first time on an unfamiliar road at night
And finally as they say throughout Costa Rica ... enjoy the Pura Vida! (the Pure Life)
March 04, 2025 - Alajuela (Hampton Inn) to Toronto to Halifax
We were up early (5:15 am) and on the 6:00 am shuttle to the airport for our 8:55 am flight to Toronto. While boarding the shuttle we were again bombarded with the squawks of the red-lored Amazon parrots.
The Hampton Inn does a decent job at presenting Costa Rican art with colourful hand painted wood trivets on the walls in our room and traditional Guaitil bowls near the elevator. There were perhaps 20 to 30 bowls displayed on the walls of which there are samples below. Back in 2007 while driving from Papagayo to Samara Beach we went into a village where these bowls were made from local clay and actually bought a large bowl and a coffee mug. Guaitil is considered by many to be the pottery capital of Costa Rica.
Our flight to Toronto was as scheduled leaving us plenty of time in the Maple Leaf Lounge to grab something to eat and drink before catching our flight back to Halifax, also on time, bringing an end to our 26 days in Costa Rica.
We are already planning next year's trip!
March 03, 2025 - Matapalo Beach (Jardin de Los Monos)
to Alajuela (Hampton Inn)
Effectively our last day in Costa Rica. We enjoyed one final breakfast; chatted with and said good-bye to Sally and Fraser and Penny and Brian; and then hugged and said good-bye to Dama and Teddy, indicating to them that in all likelihood we would be back again next year.
Before leaving, as we had with Sid and Michaelynn, we gave Lettika and Gijs a bottle of Nova Scotia maple syrup which no doubt will nicely accompany their Dutch pancakes.
Unfortunately the sloth was not in the breakfast tree this morning but we did enjoy a number of days with her and her baby near by.
The drive from Matapalo Beach to Alajuela is more or less 3 1/2 hours.
We made three stops - the first at Dantica Gallery in Herradura to replace a Christmas ornament we gifted to Michaelynn. Then El Jardin in Orotina to buy sloth pillows (seen last year) for the grandchildren, but unfortunately they had none. Then a gas stop in Alajuela before returning our vehicle from where we got the shuttle to the airport planning to take another to the Hampton Inn. But given the Hampton's proximity to the road the driver dropped us off right at the hotel - very considerate of him, although we're not so sure the other passengers were of like mind.
After checking in we went out to the pool (actually in the shade and somewhat cold). San Jose, being inland, is definitely cooler than the temperatures and humidity we experienced along the coast. We were immediately greeted by a large and very noisy flock of red-lored Amazon parrots. Both behind the hotel (around the pool) and in front they were everywhere, flying in and out of trees and squawking incessantly.
As it turns out the Hampton Inn has a small restaurant. Nothing fancy but we were able to get something to eat without having to go out. Gayle had patacones with a bean dip and salsa while Norm had the Hamburgesa with fries.
We then finished packing and went to bed early as we need to be up at 5:15 am.
To the right the pool.
Just a few of the many squawking large red-lored Amazon parrots at the Hampton Inn.
More red-lored Amazon parrots along with a very short video of their squawking. Costa Rican wildlife even at an airport hotel.
March 02, 2025 - Matapalo Beach (Jardin de Los Monos)
Another day that started with us meeting Sally and Fraser - at times mistakenly referred to as Frazier - at breakfast. As it turns out Sally and Fraser live within 20 miles or so of Penny and Brian near Bighton, England.
Both couples were on their first trip to Costa Rica and loving it - the wildlife and the activities - kayaking, hikes, river boat tours, surfing etc. and towing a local whose vehicle broke down some 40 km to his home - well done Brian and Penny.
Today was another relaxing day of watching (and taking photos of) butterflies, cooling off in the pool, and waiting for the monkeys who must have found food elsewhere as this afternoon they didn't show.
As it turned out we (Brian, Penny, Fraser, Sally, Gayle and me) all had dinner at the Matapalo Supper Club. Being our last dinner before heading back to San Jose for our last night I was torn between again having a steak or going with the pasta with shrimp. When in a dilemma the best solution is often compromise. So I asked Daniel if I could go off-menu and have surf and turf - the pasta and in theory a small tenderloin, although Daniel's definition of 'small' might not be the same as others. Gayle of course ordered the gnocchi again, knowing she wouldn't be able to finish but it is just too good to pass up. Lots of delicious food.
Fraser and Sally were there when we arrived and Brian and Penny came in as we were finishing our meal. We moved a couple of tables together and spent an enjoyable time finishing our meals and chatting about this and that. This would never have happened had we stayed at and Air B&B.
Before leaving we had a nice chat with Daniel and Darlenny before parting hugs and an indication we would likely be back again next year.
A few of the many butterflies around the Jardin de Los Monos pool.
Gayle returned to the delicious gnocchi with a rich mushroom and gorgonzola sauce.
As well we had one of the MSC's salads.
March 01, 2025 - Matapalo Beach (Jardin de Los Monos)
Today had a few highlights
- meeting two British couples Brian (originally from Kenya) and Penny, and Sally and Fraser (not Frazier)
- the re-appearance of the monkeys
- another wonderful sunset, accomodating the wedding on the beach, and
- a return to the Matapalo Supper Club (MSC)
We met Brian over breakfast where we enjoyed a wonderful chat, learning of how much he was enjoying and appreciating the wildlife here in Costa Rica (it was his first trip), reminding him of his birthplace of Nairobe, Kenya back in the day - an environment now somewhat destroyed due to development. Brian is a very interesting character - a lorry driver with story after story to tell.
We also met Sally and Fraser who coincidentally live within 20 miles or so of Penny and Brian near Brighton, England. It too was their first trip to CR.
At times people ask us where we stay. While it is fine to stay at resorts or Air BnBs we now exclusively stay at small boutique hotels, generally five to ten rooms (Jardin de Los Monos has six). Often while admiring and photographing the animals - the birds, butterlies, sloths and monkeys here - we will meet other similarly minded travelers. At times it is a quick chat in passing but at others there is a bit of a connection. In this case all six of us ended up at the MSC tomorrow night (more tomorrow).
After another relaxing afternoon in and around the pool we did our standard after 5:00 pm activity - a stroll to the beach where we watched the locals, tourists, pelicans and sunset. Today it was a wedding at a lodging right on the beach with the bride, groom and guests similarly enjoying the perfect evening. Although we were at dinner for most of it the music (apparently quite noticeable) went to 10:00 pm at which time it promptly stopped as required by Costa Rican law.
For dinner it was again back to the MSC where Gayle enjoyed a 'small' (although we would tend to disagree) pizza with mushrooms, sweet pepper, olives, gorgonzola and freshly picked basil - we know as we saw Darlenny pick it from a plant near our table. Norm could not resist the 14 oz. tenderloin with peppercorn sauce, the salad and German fried potatoes - exactly the same meal he had the first evening here.
Near the end of our meal Brian and Penny entered to make a reservation for tomorrow night. We ended up chatting with them for quite some time before heading back to Los Monos to bring an end to another perfect day.
February 28, 2025 - Matapalo Beach (Jardin de Los Monos)
Before describing our day we need to back up to last night. When we returned from our outing for dinner I found a piece of my mouse and its battery on our veranda floor. The other part of the mouse was no where to be found. Our only theory is that the monkeys were particularly brazen and mischiveous. I admit it was a bit srange to ask Lettika if anyone found a mouse around their room. Not the case but Teddy searched the grounds below our room and voila - success - he found the other piece of the mouse and it all works. Don't leave your mouse, or anything else outside ... lesson learned.
The morning started with a great opportunity to photo the momma sloth near to the breakfast area of Jardin de Los Monos. She was a bit more active than usual today. Perhaps no more than four or five feet from us. And I'm very pleased with the results based on the photos below.
After our sloth experience we enjoyed breakfast and then it was off to the pool where we photographed the flowers and did our best to capture the butterflies and birds.
After an afternoon of work on our blogs and cooling off in the pool we waited for the monkeys but somewhat surprisingly they did not show up today. Afterwards we headed to the beach where we admired another colourful sunset while watching clhildren playing and families gathered to also watch the sunset.
For dinner we returned to The Matapalo Supper Club (MSC) where Gayle had the Gnocchi with a creamy mushroom and gorgonzola sauce covered with parmesan. The Gnocchi was absolutely delicious, and there was plenty of it - so much so that we took home half the serving, actually on the plate on which it was served given we will be returning tomorrow. Given Daniel's German roots I decided to go with the bratwurst sausage, German potato salad and red cabbage. Another great meal at the MSC.
And another great relaxing day here at Los Monos.
We can't say enough great things about Dama and Teddy - the staff here are Jardin de Los Monos. Dama, who takes the 6:00 am bus each morning from around Quepos to arrive to make breakfast and then do housekeeping work always has a smile, as does Teddy, the man of many skills, one of which is banter and laughter.
It is ineresting how many Tico (a colloquial term for a native of Costa Rica, also used to refer to the country as a whole, its culture and its traditional food) families are at the beach each night.
February 27, 2025 - Matapalo Beach (Jardin de Los Monos)
As we expected we have settled in to a routine here at Jardin de Los Monos - up early; usually between 5:00 am and 6:00 am due to the sounds of the birds; work on our travel blogs before it gets too hot; down for breakfast and some sloth viewing; a late morning swim to cool off; back to the travel blogs; and then another swim.
This morning, in addition to Moma sloth and her baby in the tree within feet of the breakfast area Teddy showed us (we would never have seen it on our own) an opossum curled between two large leaves. Yet more nature.
Today, with the Matapalo Supper Club again closed we found a Soda about 40 minutes away on the road up to San Isidro de le General.
The drive from Domincal up the mountain is fortunately paved but still very narrow and twisty. Yet for the passenger it is very scenic (the driver needs to be consistently focused).
We enjoyed a wonderful lunch, each having a smoothie (Norm soursop and Gayle pineapple) while sharing a bowl of gauacamole with excellent tortilla chips. Gayle then had a vegetarian burrito while Norm the Hawaiian chicken with vegetables and fries. All simple - except perhaps for the pineapple sauce on the chicken - and very good.
Mauro, our server, spent a considerable amount of time with us telling us about the many many birds that frequent the area and his plans to add a terrace to the west side of the house to provide tables that have vistas of the valley to the west and the sunset. We were able to imagine how scenic this will be, and certainly a reason to return. Mauro is so proud of his country and the wealth of wildlife found here in CR, showing us photo after photo
An interesting tradition of Soda La Pena is to have guests write who they are and where they are from on any surface of the building - the walls, the doors, the roofs, the chairs and anywhere else one can find a spot. We were invited to do so, with Maura even adding our travel blog website.
An excellent choice and experience.
The drive down the mountain was considerably quicker than up, with us reaching Matapalo Beach in time to watch the sunset.
Another day and another sloth (or perhaps the same one as yesterday) very nearby to our breakfast area.
La Pena - a great little roadside Soda.
February 26, 2025 - Matapalo Beach (Jardin de Los Monos)
As mentioned Jardin de Los Monos could also be called Jardin de Osos de Perezosos (Garden of the Lazy Bears aka Sloths). Sloths are often spotted on the property. This morning there was one low in a tree just outside the gate, perhpas 10 feet away. A mom just sleeping with her baby.
After breakfast we returned to the tree and got some great photos as mom and the baby were more active, moving around a bit. Now 'a bit' for a sloth is not very much but still we were able to get some photos of moma's face and the baby.
Most of the day was spent either working on our travel blogs or relaxing in or around the pool. This is so so relaxing. Late afternoon we went to the beach for another nice sunset.
For dinner, given the Supper Club is closed today and tomorrow, we drove 20 minutes or so back towards Dominical to Ricar2, or Ricar'dos'. The original Ricar, set inside an airplane is in nearby Quepos. When the restaurant branched out to a second location they arranged to bring another plane onsite.
"This Boeing 727 started life in Germany with Hapag Lloyd in 1979. After only five years it was sold to Ethiopian Airlines where it spent the next five years. It then spent the next ten years moving around various airlines in Colombia, Spain and South Africa. Finaly the plane found a home in Mexico with Allegro Air in 1999.
Unfortunately Allegro Air ceased operations in November 2003 and the aircraft was placed into storage in San Jose. Unable to find another airline it eventually found its new home as a hotel near Domincal in 2010."
We enjoyed a nice meal that started with a spicy Mexican Margarita each. Then Norm had an Aztec soup, a traditional tortilla soup made with simple, richly seasoned tomato-chile broth and chicken often ladled over crispy tortilla strips although in this case tortilla chips were served on the side. This was followed by a Vegetarian Casado for Gayle and for Norm Chicken in Tropical Sauce with pan seared corn tortilla, pieces of fresh mango, chives, cilantro, lemon and a touch of sweet chili served with almond rice and salad. The fruit sauce was wonderful although the dish itself was just a tad too spicy.
It was an easy drive back to Matapalo Beach and Los Monos where we called it a night.
Crashing waves off Matapalo beach. Pelicans sailing along the water.
This photo of the entire plane was copied from the internet.
February 25, 2025 - Domincalito (Pacific Edge Eco Lodge)
to Matapalo Beach (Jardin de Los Monos)
Our last morning here at Pacific Edge. We have concluded next time we are back it will need to be for five nights. Howlers in the wee hours of the morning, birds including a toucan today, packing and breakfast - what else but banana pancakes again - thumbs up to Sid for making the absolute best, fluffy banana pancakes. Plus he says they provide the best profit margin of his breakfast options so a definite win-win.
Michaelynn then showed us her new, expanded Boruca and jewellery gallery - a very nice space to display the masks and crafts of the indigenous Boruca and her own jewellery. While in the gallery Michaelynn showed us Sid's achievement of being the Coconut Telegraph's Bartender of the Month (June 2007). It wasquite an honour to be in the presence of such an esteemed recognized celebrity, one of bartender royalty fame :-).
Before leaving Sid found out Flor (the houskeeper) has 7 grandchildren and Arturo (the gardener) 2. Having a supply of beanies left we provided each with enough for each grandchild and left the remaining 10 with Sid and Michaelynn to give to children at a nearby school.
Eventually we did have to pack up and head out. Although we left with sadness we are so thankful to have come across Pacific Edge - with its authentic Costa Rican cabinas. Perhaps not the luxury of some newer more modern places but that, along with Sid, Michaelynn, Kaiya and the dogs and cats is what makes it what it is - a warm, family run lodging with charm and character rather than some non-descript modern hotel. We will be back!.
The drive to Matapalo Beach and Jardin de Los Monos (Garden of the Monkeys) is only 22 km or 25 minutes.
We left after 11:00 am and even with a gas stop arrived before noon. Our room was available which was nice, although if not we would have just hung out at the beach
Before even entering the gate another guest pointed out a sloth in a nearby tree. While not guaranteed every time we have stayed at Jardins de Los Monos there has been a sloth or two, often with a baby.
This is our 5th stay at Los Monos, first coming here in 2020, then 2022, 2023 and 2024. Each time we stay a day longer with this being six nights. And for the most part the intent is to stay here on the property, enjoying our comfortable room, watching the wildlife and cooling off in the pool.
We were not disappointed as shortly before 4:00 pm a large troop of white faced / capuchin monkeys crossed the property, which really means the roof our our unit, into the trees inland. Then an hour or so later they returned, swinging from trees, crossing on wires and prancing on the roofs making all kinds of racket. It was very entertaining!
For dinner we had Lettike make us a reservation at the Matapalo Supper Club, by far our favourite restaurant in the area. We were warmly greeted with big hugs by Darlenny and Daniel, who after five years recognize us the moment we step in the door.
A nice large glass of Malbec wine went well with our meals. Gayle went in with something else in mind but could not resist the vegetarian red curry. Norm knew what he was going to have, and did - the 400 g tenderloin steak with a large salad and delicious fried potatoes (salad and potatoes shared with Gayle).
It was so nice to be back to places we so much enjoy.
Left: not the best photo but at least proof we did see a toucan.
Below: another of the many birds that visit Pacific Edge.
February 24, 2025 - Domincalito (Pacific Edge Eco Lodge)
It is really hard to believe we could do less today than the previous two days, but less we did.
Of course we had breakfast (we split one order of pancakes between us as Sid's banana pancakes are so huge / fluffy), took photos of the property and vistas to the ocean, enjoyed the sounds of the jungle - the insects, the birds, the monkeys, cooled off with dips in the pool and relaxed in the hammock.
But beyond that really nothing. Norm's tummy was acting up and as a result we did not even leave to go out to dinner.
All of which resulted in what is no doubt the shortest travel blog daily entry ever.
February 23, 2025 - Domincalito (Pacific Edge Eco Lodge)
After another sleep interrupted (in a good way) by the howls of the howlers and the music of the birds we fell into our morning routine that starts with work on our travel blog out on our deck overlooking the tropical forest with views beyond to the ocean.
Eventually we make our way up for breakfast. We tend to be on the late side with others having come and gone or about to head out leaving us to chat with Sid while he works away at whatever we ordered. Today it is his banana pancakes - huge and fluffy. Sid is a very interesting guy with, similar to Michaelynn, lots of life experiences and opinions. We very much enjoy spending time with each of them. After breakfast Michaelynn usually sits down for a bite to eat providing us the opportunity to chat with her at length. Both have all the time in the world for us.
Today was another sunny hot one spent either on our shaded deck, in the hammock or in the pool.
Before we knew it it was late afternoon with the sun about to set. Tonight's sunset was spectacular.
We could only get a late dinner reservation at Exotica in Ojochal, a 35 minute drive but we love the restaurant and its manager Maite. We were again warmly greeted and enjoyed another delicious meal. Gayle started with a Passion Fruit daiquiri while Norm had a Pinaepple smoothie given the lengthy drive back in the dark on a newly paved road that yet to have lines painted. For Norm the Costa Rican fish ceviche was calling out. Beautifully presented it was wonderful. Gayle had her 'go to' dish - the Pasta Strogonoff, spaghetti (or fettucini) in a vegetarian creamy tomato sauce with fresh mushrooms, white wine and vodka sauce. Norm had The Thai Pot - coconut milk, seafood (shrimp and fish) and yellow curry from Madras. Although we rarely have dessert it is custom for us to share a Banana flambe with ice cream when here at Exotica.
After our meal we had a nice chat with Maite and promised that if in the area we will of course be back.
February 22, 2025 - Domincalito (Pacific Edge Eco Lodge)
Our first full day at Pacific Edge and we did exactly what we expected we would do - virtually nothing.
We were awoken very early (between 5:00 am and 6:00 am) by the howlers after which a multitude of birds serenaded us with their morning wake up calls. 8:30 ish we wandered up to the lodge for breakfast. Breakfast is optional, i.e. not included here at Pacific Edge with a number of options created by Sid. Today we both had the Surfer Burrito - beans, rice, eggs and cheese with optional chorizo (that I had) or bacon. Served with a nice selection of fruit and tasty fried potatoes it was a good way to start our day. Breakfast was very leisurely as we chatted up a storm with Sid on numerous topics. Of course politics came up as did his HOA issues.
The rest of the day was spent at Pacific Edge where we napped in the hammock, worked on travel blogs, and cooled off with dips in the pool. In spite of being more than a kilometre up the mountain it is still very hot here. The fans certainly help but there is no air conditioning, i.e. the pool is the AC.
For dinner we went to Gusto, an Italian restaurant we went to last year and very much enjoyed. The location is perfect, overlooking the ocean and everything authentic Italian from the wine - all of it from Italy, to the flour - also imported, to out waiter's strong Italian accent.
Gayle started with a glass of bubbly - an Italian Spumante while I ordered a bottle of Morellino di Scansano red wine to have with dinner. Gayle did not hesitate when she saw Gnocchi on the menu - handmade with a gargonzola and pear sauce with walnuts. Norm ordered the Filetto de Manzo e Funghi - beef tenderloin with mushrooms, speck and parmesan cream. It was top notch. In spite of the opportunity to finish with Tirimisu Gayle was stuffed and passed.
It was an easy 15 minute drive (Gusto is just north of Uvita) back to Pacific Edge where we listened to the cicadas before turning in.
February 21, 2025 - Capulin (Rancho Capulin)
to Domincalito (Pacific Edge Eco Lodge)
We enjoyed a wonderful, albeit short stay at Rancho Capulin. New and modern (at least the Terraza room that is part of the main building - the two casitas may be a bit more traditional) we had a plunge pool and superb views across the tropical forest over the Tarcoles river. Flowers were prolific adding a great deal of colour.
Claudine provided a great breakfast including fresh juice, bread with jams (one of which was mango), banana bread, lots of fruit, eggs and of course coffee.
We each spent a short time in the plunge pool and Gayle enjoyed a very nice chat wtih Claudine before we packed and headed out.
Rancho Capulin is just a few kms north of the Tarcoles river, famous as home to many crocodiles that can often be seen from the bridge. It had been a number of years since we stopped to take a look but this time Gayle wanted to do so. She was super excited to see at least seven crocodiles, one of which was very large, although there were likely many others submerged in the water.
We then continued on through Herradura, past Quepos and on to Dominical where we arrived at Pacific Edge Eco Lodge, to be warmly greeted by Sid, Michaelynn and Kaiya.
This is a place where we feel like real friends. We just clicked with Sid and Michaelynn. We were greeted with flowers, a very nice note, wine, chocolate and cookies (to have with our coffee). Very impressive.
After settling in we first enjoyed the monkey show (white faced / capuchin) and then the sunset. Being a km + 'up the mountain' the views of the coastline and sunset from Pacific Edge are spectacular.
For dinner we went to a new pizzeria in nearby Domincal - Moromo Forneria. Gayle's arugula was a bit strange - apparently just thrown on at the end, but worked well with the sweet peppers. Norm had garlic, mushrooms and salami. A simple dinner but one can never go wrong with pizza.
Although the restaurant was full when we arrived as we left and walked back to our vehicle we observed how few people were around, which we found strange at 8:00 pm on a Friday night in the height of tourist season.
We returned to our cabina where Gayle was 'attacked' by evening (cidadas?) insects as she 'escaped' into our room, turned out the lights and called it a night.
Hawaiian Hibiscus. Hibiscus. Allamanda cathartica.
We were welcomed by Michaelynn, Sid and Kaiya with fresh flowers, a bottle of wine (actually they were thoughtful enough to put a bottle of white in the fridge as they weren't sure what we preferred) and chocolate.
February 20, 2025 - Montezuma (Ylang Ylang)
to Capulin (Rancho Capulin)
After three full days at Ylang Ylang it was time to pick up stakes and move on. For breakfast we both had the passion fruit juice and the burrito. Having felt there was not enough pico to gallo when we had the burritos the other day we asked for a bit more, which we were provided. However we were somewhat miffed when we found out we were charged $6.22 (US = $8.86 Cdn) for the additional. Sure there might be some miniscule extra cost but when one is paying > $400 US per day it felt like being nickeled and dimed.
On our way out we thought about stopping in Montezuma but as we drove through we saw no reason to, and fortunate we did not as we very well may have missed the Futero Verde International students who were painting a marked crosswalk, complete with sharks, in front of their school. We of course stopped and I had a nice chat with the teacher and students about my focus on crosswalk safety back home.
Our route took us from Montezuma to Cobano and then past Playa Tambor to Paquena where we caught the ferry to Puntarenas.
From there it was a bit over an hour drive to Capulin.
Unfortunately our ferry left 15 + minutes late meaning we just missed the sunset by the time we reached Rancho Capulin. Fortunately we did see the the colourful skies upon arriving.
We planned to have dinner at a Soda but the nearby ones closed by six resulting in us going to a nearby restaurant - Las Tekas. Very informal the food turned out to be really good, albeit my 'special' came with a considerable cost.
We started with two excellent fruit smoothies - sour sop for Norm and pineapple for Gayle. Both were excellent. Norm then started with the mixed ceviche, a combination of fish and shrimp. Also very good. Gayle had the Chofrijo Bowl, a traditional Costa Rican dish that combines ingredients such as beans, pork rinds (of course not in the vegetarian version), rice and pico de gallo among others, accompanied with corn tortillas. Norm was offered a 'special' of tuna and shrimp. On the one hand he should have asked the price although on the other hand if he had he would not have ordered it. The 'special' turned out to be 20,000 colones, or $62.44 Cdn. Now that said it was excellent. Two large pieces of tuna (one would have been enough) along with four massive shrimp with a delicious garlic sauce, accompanied by a salad and mashed potatoes. It would have been perfect to share but with Gayle being a vegetarian that is not doable.
It was a short drive back to Rancho Capulin where Norm had a quick dip in the plunge pool before calling it a night.
Me taking a photo of the 'public works' team and to the right the team.
February 19, 2025 - Montezuma (Ylang Ylang)
Today was our third full day here at Ylang Ylang. It is somewhat difficult to find much new to say (or to photo).
We did meet our dome neighbours (Domes 6 and 7 are up the same path) Greg and Margo from Kingston, Ontario. When we saw them again at the pool they asked if we wanted to joint them for dinner. Sure, why not? It was nice to share travel experiences. They are here at Ylang Ylang for four nights before renting a house nearby for a couple of weeks.
For breakfast we both had Passion Fruit Juice and Huevos Rancheros.
The day was again pleasantly repetitive - listening to the jungle sounds from our deck; cooling off in the pool; napping; and watching the monkey show late afternoon.
Happy Hour was a Pina Colada for Gayle and another bottle of Albarinho wine. Gayle then enjoyed the Curry Ylang Ylang with Tofu - a variety of curried vegetables simmered in coconut milk served on a bed of rice and Norm, having enjoyed it so much the first night, again ordered the fish filet blackened with a passion fruit sauce. And once again the fish tonight was tuna.
While some might question our do nothing, sloth like approach to our time here we absolutely love it. Relaxing in the midst of nature without running around trying to do a gazillion things is our way to enjoy ourselves while away. We wouldn't change a thing.
To the left the pathway to other domes and units.
And below bananas.
Pseudobombax ellipticum with common names including shaving brush tree, Dr Seuss tree, and amapolla tree.
February 18, 2025 - Montezuma (Ylang Ylang)
As expected today was another chill out do virtually nothing kind of day.
Gayle was up early enough to catch some morning orange sky from our deck. One thing we don't get here is either sunrise or sunset.
After time on our deck it was down for breakfast where Gayle had the French Toast - topped with a fruit melange while Norm had the Tropical Banana Pancakes - served with homemade maple syrup and also the fresh fruit melange.
After time on our deck it was down for breakfast where Gayle had the French Toast - topped with a fruit melange while Norm had the Tropical Banana Pancakes - served with homemade maple syrup and also the fresh fruit melange.
We both had the Cas juice, a sweet and sour drink made from the Costa Rican guava fruit, a pale orange tropical fruit with a pink juicy flesh and a strong sweet aroma.
The rest of the morning included a walk on the beach, a swim in the pool - the ocean waves are a bit too much for us to give them a go - and for Gayle hammock time.
Late afternoon, as expected the monkeys showed up spending time again in the large tree directly in front of our dome. As much as they were pretty much the same as yesterday and the day before their antics don't get old - jumping from branch to branch and interacting with each other, along with the occasional squabble.
Afterwards we again went down before Happy Hour ended for a couple of drinks - a Margarita for Gayle and a Costa Rica for Norm. The Costa Rica is a drink the colour of the Costa Rican flag being blue and red with guaro, lime juice and grenadine.
Gayle ordered the Latino Nachos - black beans, guacamole, cheese and sour cream, with pico de gallo served with homemade tortilla chips. Good but not quite to the level of the nachos at Casa Caletas. With the seafood being so good so far Norm continued with the theme choosing Montezuma's Mixed Seafood Grill of shrimp, fish, calamari, mussels and clams stewed with onions, peppers, plantains, herbs and olive oil in a mild spicy tomato sauce, served with seasonal vegetables, fettucini and garlic bread.
Another enjoyable leisurely dinner to bring an end to another enjoyable leisurely day.
February 17, 2025 - Montezuma (Ylang Ylang)
Be forewarned the details of our next three days will be very similar. Ylang Ylang is a beautiful property. Although one could go out for day trips we saw no reason to, rather enjoying our wonderful 'dome' and the delicious meals (included in the reservation creating no incentive to leave and eat elsewhere).
We awake each morning to the sounds of the birds and insects, and on occaision howler monkeys. There is coffee in the room that keeps us going while we work on our travel blogs before eventually heading down to breakfast. Breakfast includes a fresh juice and any item off the extensive menu. Today we both ordered the Ylang Ylang Breakfast Burrito - scrambled eggs, rice, beans, cheese, plantains and pico de gallo. Very good.
After a leisurely breakfast we return to our room to just chill out. In fact we spend most of our day on the deck of our dome, immersed in the sounds and sights of the tropical forest directly in front of us. The vegetation is so thick we can barely see the ocean.
During the afternoon we will go down to the pool. Also nicely designed and set in the 'jungle'. Yes there are a number of children in the pool but generally they are having good fun. The water is nice and refreshing. Gayle may spend some time in the hammock while Norm may shut his eyes for a nap.
Then mid to late afternoon it is time for the monkey show. The trees in front of our dome are full of white faced / capuchin monkeys jumping from branch to branch, interacting with each other and generally having fun, although on occasion we hear the squeals of a couple who are obviously unhappy with each other. It is quite the show lasting over an hour.
Then around 5:15 pm we head down for Happy Hour where we order drinks to enjoy in this fabulous setting. Today Gayle had a Papaya Colada - rum, papaya, cream of coconut and milk, while Norm ordered a bottle of Spanish Pazo Cilliero Albarino white wine to have with dinner.
For dinner Gayle chose the Asian Rice Noodles a la Coconut Cream - rice noodles stir-fried with vegetables in a creamy fresh homemade ginger-coconut milk sauce with Norm ordering the Pasta a la Salsa de Mar Magico - a white wine creamy seafood sauce incluing shrimp, fresh fish and clams served with garlic bread. Again, any worries about the food being 'just ok' turned out to be unfounded. We both enjoyed our meals.
Back up to our Dome where wespent more time on our deck before calling it a night.
February 16, 2025 - San Francisco de Coyote (Casa Caletas)
to Montezuma (Ylang Ylang)
While our stay at Casa Caletas was short it was very nice. Our room was great. The jacuzzi wonderful. The views spectacular. The local music good. And the birds and animals great to experience.
While it was time to leave we did make a quick stop at Playa Coyote - another long expansive beach where families were enjoying a Sunday having meals.
The drive to Ylang-Ylang is only 38 kms but indicated to take an hour an a half, implying an average speed of only 25 kph. You can imagine the quality of roads.
This included crossing three rivers, the widest of which was Rio Bongo. Adding to the challenges of the pot-holed dirt road was at times heavy rain that filled the pot-holes making their depth impossible to see.
While we had a bit of apprehension upon arriving at Rio Bongo we followed a motorcycle across the river and managed to make it around the many many pot-holes.
After the 'show' we went down for Happy Hour and dinner where Gayle had a 'Love Shack' and Norm a Blue Margarita along with some tapas - a Fresh herbed tomato Brushettita (fresh tomato brushettas enhanced with herbed oive oil sauce) and Calamari Al Limon (calamari sauteed in a traditional olive oil-lemon sauce). Then for dinner Gayle had the Pasta a la Arrabiata - a pasta served with a spicy (and indeed it was) light-herbed garlic tomato sauce served with garlic bread. There was a choice of spaghetti, penne or fettuccini (which Gayle chose). Norm had the fish (tonight it was tuna) filet blackened with Passion Fruit Sauce, served over potatoes with sauteed vegetables. Both were excellent. For drinks Gayle had the passion fruit while Norm a fresh lemonade.
We returned to our dome (a short uphill walk), listened to the jungle sounds and called it a night.
View from our deck. Eating area, pool and views.
Crossing Rio Bongo.
As we arrived we were treated to a monkey welcoming party. There were perhaps 20 of these white-faced / capuchin monkeys romping through the huge trees directly in front of our dome (Dome #6).
February 15, 2025 - San Francisco de Coyote (Casa Caletas)
Today's report will be short as we did little more than lounged around Casa Caletas.
We awoke to our amazing view across the estuary to the Pacific Ocean with a multitude of birds swooping up and down, left and right or just taking a rest on one of the sand bars.
Breakfast choices were few - an omellette or Gallo Pinto (we both ordered the Gallo Pinto). Simple (no fruit) but good.
This remote area seemed like a good location to donate the beanie babies / buddies we again brought with us. However being a Saturday (and we are leaving tomorrow on Sunday) we could not do so in person. So I chatted with Stephanie who said she would deliver them to two schools next week.
The rest of the day was spent in the jacuzzi or pool and watching the wildlife including the wide variety of birds in the trees and the estuary, including a hawk, an egret and a committee of vultures, along with the numerous pelicans and other shore birds.
Mid afternoon we were visited by a troop of howler monkeys in a tree just outside our room. These howlers had a distinctive orange colour on their backs.
Biologists have studied a phenomenon that seems to appear almost exclusively in Costa Rica, that of a discolouration of certain Howler Monkeys that give them an orange pigmentation. The first observations of such anomalies were about 10 years ago.
There are several theories as to why
- exposure to pesticides and insecticides near where the animals live, or
- loss of habitat and forest corridors resulting in in-breeding, or
- a rare genetic exception that may have this dominant traits.
Photo from the internet
We again ate at Casa Caletas as there are few other options and we do our utmost to avoid the rough, pot-holed dirt roads at night. Gayle ordered the nachos but with beans rather than chicken. Delicious. Norm had the seafood soup in a milk broth. Also excellent.
It is hard to understand why, after doing so little during the day we are so tired after dinner. But we are and again it was early to bed.
February 14, 2025 - Samara (El Pequeno Gecko Verde)
to San Francisco de Coyote (Casa Caletas)
Our last morning here at El Pequeno Gecko Verde. Quite unusually - after all it is supposed to be dry season here - it poured rain for a number of hours duriing the night. Any rain this time of the year, while unexpected, is welcome as it keeps the dust down.
We had a final Gallo Pinto, today with scrambled eggs. Afterwards we chatted again at length with Muriel, and her husband Fabrice. We really enjoyed our stay here at El Pequeno Gecko Verde. Our rustic-style room, Carambola, decorated with hand-made wooden furniture, while a bit small, was very functional. We particulary enjoyed the large deck with a cooling fan and a hammock providing views of the tropical forest.
We decided the drive to Montezuma would be too long and therefore booked in for two nights at a place we found near San Francisco de Coyote.
The drive was entirely along dirt roads down the coast, past Playa Carrillo and a number of other beaches, including Playa Miquel near where we stayed in 2019. We reached Casa Caletas mid afternoon, pretty much as expected.
We booked the front Delue Room with Jacuzzi. We of course paid a bit more but both the views across and out the estuary and the jacuzzi were certainly worth it. There are birds everywhere, particularly pelicans, but also egrets, blue herons and others we couldn't identify.
Being Valentine's Day we were welcomed with towels shaped as a heart filled with flower petals. Our room is large, with a nice deck including a good table on which to work, and views to die for.
Before dinner we enjoyed a nice sunset.
Dinner was a bit of an experience. The deck by the pool was set up for the musicians but just before dinner it was obvious rain was expected so everything was moved under a roof. It was the right decision as it poured for over an hour. The time it took for that to happen plus the fact it was somewhat busy meant service was somewhat slow - actually quite slow. We sat down at 6:00 pm and did not leave until just before 9:00 pm. At least we were not in a hurry so no worries. But for most of the time - 6:45 pm through 8:45 pm non-stop the three musicians played and sang Costa Rican music. Still a tad loud for being able to chat but all in all quite good.
For dinner Gayle ordered a vegetarian burrito. We're not sure what was lost in the translation but what she received was a vegetarian casado. The casado turned out to be quite good, especially the beans that Gayle raved on about. Norm ordered the reasonably priced tenderloin. While decent it was quite small, not holding a candle to the steaks he is looking forward to at The Matapalo Supper Club when we visit in a 10 days time.
February 13, 2025 - Samara (El Pequeno Gecko Verde)
Another morning / early afternoon much the same as the previous. We did spend nearly an hour chatting with Muriel about her family, life here, and hotel guests. Like others we have asked she said 95% of guests are great but there are a few ... such as the fellow who was bothered by the wake-up howls of the nearby monkeys or another fellow who was upset that a coati did his / her business in the pool. If one comes to the rainforest with animals (and birds and insects) one has to be prepared for their existence. There is really nothing that can be done about monkeys who howl early in the morning, and for the 'poo in the pool' they clean it out and added more chlorine but animals will be animals. Some travellers just need to do a bit more research as to where they are staying.
During the afternoon we decided to return to the beach. We first tried the south end of Playa Samara but the waves were somewhat large so we returned to Playa Carrillo where we again had a wonderful time on the super soft sand and in the calm and warm ocean water.
We then returned to Playa Rio Buena Vista but the sunset was a dud. Back to Gecko Verde for a short while and then out to dinner.
We had asked Muriel for her recommendations as to pizzas to which she gave us a couple. One was closed so it was Mar Y Fuego. A nice establishment with a wood pizza oven and outdoor tables it was good we made a reservation as there was only one table open. There was also a musician this evening. While his guitar playing and singing were both quite good the music was way too loud, making it near impossible to talk. In retrospect I wish he has not playing ... oh well.
We started with a Bruschetta con vegetables - toasted bread with garlic, dill aioli, chevre, sauteed vegetables, chopped salagette tomatoes, bean sprouts, extra virgin olive oil and basil. Beautifully presented and delicious. We then each ordered one of the 'smaller' pizzas although we kind of knew they were going to be too much. Gayle had the Verde - tomato sauce, mozzarella, gargonzola, rucula and cherry tomatoes while Norm had the Texas - tomato sauce, mozzarella, spicy salami, Italian sausage and oregano. Both were excellent but we were right. Gayle ate half while Norm three-quarters. We hope the Gecko Verde staff appreciated the left overs we gave to them.
February 12, 2025 - Samara (El Pequeno Gecko Verde)
I could copy and paste yesterday morning and early afternoon although I did have an omelette rather than the Gallo Pinto, but otherwise virtually the same.
Mid afternoon we drove to the Rio Bueno Vista beach to see if we could expect a sunset. Upon arriving we came upon a committee of vultures and realized why when we saw a fellow cleaning fish he had caught. We did conclude this will be a good sunset location.
We then drove out to Playa Carrillo, a few kms south of Samara. Play Carrillo is a beautiful beach lined by majestic palm trees. The sand is so soft, extending out into the reasonably calm (a few small waves but nothing really) and very warm waters of the ocean. It was really nice to get into the Pacific for a swim.
We then returned to Rio Buena Vista where, along with a number of others, indeed were treated to a colourful setting sun.
For dinner, as we had enjoyed our Soda experience last night, we decided to give Soda Samarena, just down from our hotel a try. It too was very good, and reasonably priced. With only four outside tables it was very informal. The servings were large and tasty. I started with chicken wings. Being quite hungry, and somewhat distracted chatting with a family from Saskatchewan, I had eaten all but one before realizing I had not taken a photo. Better late (with only one wing left) than never. Gayle then had the Casado, a plate of beans and rice with a salad, a few French Fries and a plantain. I had the coconut shrimp. We both tried a Tamarind juice drink which unfortunately was not as good as we expected. Less than a minute back to El Pequenc Gecko Verde.
February 11, 2025 - Samara (El Pequeno Gecko Verde)
We have found another perfect lodging for our travel style. Nine rooms set in lush vegetation with a nice pool we have a room with a large deck and cooking facilities - not that we will use them other than to make coffee each morning. There is lots of beautiful Costa Rican wood furniture - the table, the chairs, the bed, and the floors. Very tastefully designed providing lots of privacy. Our room is named Carambola, after the fruit also known as star fruit.
Upon seeing the breakfast menu it was immediately obvious what we would choose - the traditional Costa Rican dish of beans, rice, eggs, plantains, small tortillas and cheese (cheese Gayle calls 'squeaky') Gallo Pinto. Served with a large plate of fresh fruit - pineapple, papaya, bananas and watermelon (or sandia in Spanish) and a drink - today it was watermelon, along with, of course, coffee.
The afternoon was spent on our deck, which has a very much appreciated fan, and in the pool - very relaxing.
Late in the afternoon we went to a nearby beach to in theory watch the sunset. However the position of the beach and nearby land meant the setting sun was not visible from the location - we will have to find another spot tomorrow.
For dinner we decided to try a traditional 'soda'. In Costa Rica 'sodas' are small, family-owned places where one can get the real taste of the country's food. They're the best places to discover CR's food culture and experience how locals really eat. Every soda has its own personality, but they all provide that 'insider' feeling one won't get at a fancy, upscale restaurant.
As nearby Soda La Perla was recommended we decided to give it a try. There were not a lot of tables and it was quite busy but we did find a spot. We each had a very tasty pineapple juice. Gayle tried the Chalupa - a fried corn tortila sometimes shaped like a boat (the actual meaning of 'chalupa' is boat or canoe) topped with a mixture of meat, vegetables and / or cheese. Of course Gayle had the vegetables. Norm's decision was easy when he saw pulpo (octopus) ceviche. Ceviche, a traditional dish in many Latin American countries, is raw fish or shellfish marinated in citrus juice and seasoning. An excellent choice. The other nice thing about a soda is the reasonable price.
Interestingly our daughter, who spent some time in Samara many years ago, had eaten regularly at Soda La Perla. She had recommended it to us and we actually had a meal here our first time to Samara back in 2009.
We returned to El Pequeno Gecko Verde where we turned in relatively early.
February 10, 2025 - Playa Avellanas (Soulshine)
to Samara (El Pequeno Gecko Verde)
Our last morning before heading south to Samara and our next stop.
But not before a little excitement as Gayle, while packing has this gigantic insect drop out of her clothes - we'll say a grasshopper (but who knows?) The height of Gayle's iPad is approx. 7 inches so it appears our 'friend' is more or less 6 inches - quite the size and quite the wake-up call.
We enjoyed another tasty breakfast. Gayle again ordered the Challah bread French Toast and I followed suit, along with some sausage, and the guanabanana, pineapple and coconut juice. A great choice. We had a nice chat with Yael about how she and her family came to find their way here.
It started with an adventure to Costa Rica where they fell in love with the way of life and the Playa Avellanas area. Fast forward a number of years to 2019 when, along with some inheritance money, Yael and Roee bought the hotel, moved their family from Israel and created the Soulshine experience - a 'relaxed and casual style' of providing comfort and care for each guest.
There are no dinners here at Soulshine with breakfast / lunch being served from 8:00 am to 2:00 pm providing a unique selection of Middle Eastern recipies with every meal being prepared from scratch using fresh ingredients.
Although one can take a less direct / longer route that is primarily on better paved roads we chose to take the more direct coastal route, mostly over dirt roads.
We again passed through Playa Negra and then on to Paraiso (where we stayed in 2019). From there it was down the Pacific Coast. We made a short stop in San Juanilla which has a beautiful soft sand beach, before continuing past Playa Ostianal and Nosara before reaching Samara, although not before we had to drive through the Rio Buena Vista - thank goodness for our 4 x 4.
Our next lodging - El Pequeno Gecko Verde was easy to find.
The Soda where we planned to have dinner was closed (as are many places on Monday's) so we went into town where we found a Mexican restaurant with some live music. A Monstor Margarita (that we shared) and a Chimichanga for each of us - vegetarian for Gayle and steak for Norm. Decent Mexican food that hit the spot.
Back to Pequeno Gecko Verde and off to bed, with everything brought in and the doors all closed just in case our racoon decided to return!
After a conversation with Yael as to how she and her family ended up in Playa Avellanas we were off - heading south along the Pacific coast to our next stop - Samara.
A massive Guanacaste tree just outside of Playa Negra.
Along with pineapples and coffee bananas are a staple of Costa Rica's agriculture. Costa Rica is the third largest exporter of bananas in the world.
There are a considerable number of cattle throughout CR, including many of these Brahman Cattle.
Yes more CR cattle.
Which way? Through the water or over the narrow one lane bridge? We chose the bridge, as did these others although the road was wet from some who clearly chose the water route.
February 09, 2025 - Playa Avellanas (Soulshine)
with a trip in to Tamarindo
The drive from Soulshine to Tamarindo is a little over half and hour, the first half on dirt roads before reaching the 152 and ashphalt.
With Pangas Beach Club virtually empty on this Sunday afternoon we took a table on the beach with a wonderful view across the estuary.
We each had a Margarita - me a basic but for the birthday girl a Guana-Maica - Don Julia Blanco tequilla, Grand Marnier, guanabanana, limon y un toque de infusion de flor de jamaica (a dash of hibiscus infusion). She loved it, even at > $28 Cdn.
We returned to our vehicle along the beach where there were some horseback riders and many swimmng and surfing. Gayle called this 'beginner' surfing as the waves were very modest.
We returned through Pinilla - a very small community of a couple of barren streets, a small church and a football field - one that did not need mowing as the free ranging cows took responsibility for that job.
Then back to Soulshine where we cooled off with a refreshing swim as the temperatures had reached 36 C.
Afterwards we headed off to see the sunset before dinner but didn't even make it out of the driveway when we saw a troop of monkeys (Gayle counted 14) in a nearby tree. The tree did not have any foliage making photos easy. We could have stayed there much longer, watching them jump from branch to branch but with the sun getting lower we headed off to the beach. We couldn't get a table at the beach front restaurant so just decided to sit on a couple of (very comfortable) boulders from where we watched locals and families enjoy their Sunday afternoon, not to mention the pelicans, other birds and colourful sunset.
We then went to Il Rustico, an Italian restaurant where we enjoyed a superb meal. Gayle started with a Prosecco before devouring her Ravioli Ai funghi porcini - all the flavour of an Italian autumn, four cheese filled ravioli with house mushroom cream, porcini mushrooms and truffle oil. Norm also had a delicious pasta - Boscaiola - a delicate taste of the mountains in Alfredo style; short homemade pasta 'strozzapreti'; Italian sausage; mushrooms, sweet peas in sweet cream. Although Gayle was full - the ravioli were huge - she could not resist a piece of tiramisu, presented with a candle and a serenade of Happy Birthday.
An excellent choice of restaurant and a wonderful meal.
am coffee.
After a day at the beach time to bring in the surf boards.
Pelicans in flight lit by the setting sun.
February 08, 2025 - Playa Avellana (Soulshine)
After our early morning coffee on our terrace we wandered down 11:00 ish for yet another massive breakfast. More coffee along with a mango and passion fruit juice and then for Gayle the Chunky Avocado - a toasted baguette topped with lots and lots of avocado, pico de gallo and a fried egg. Norm had the Falafel - a number of small falafel balls, Israeli salad, pickled onions, tahini and spicy salsa served with a fluffy pita. It was all so very good.
The afternoon was spent relaxing around our cabina with some time spent in the pool - very refreshing. The temperatures are in the 31 C to 33 C range - usually with a breeze so that it is not unbearably hot but actually quite pleasant.
We decided to check out Playa Avellana and the sunset before eating at a beachfront restaurant - La Parruja. The beach was reasonably crowded even late in the afternoon. We enjoyed the start of the sunset before finding a table at the restaurant. Our server Diego was wonderful in getting us a second better chair, leveling the table and tracking down a few cushions to make us more comfortable. We both ordered a Margarita which we sipped while chatting with Sarah and Jenni from New Jersey and Maryland respectively. On occasion I would head down to the beach to get better shots of the sun as it set bit by bit.
Dinner servings were HUGE, and the food very good. Gayle had the La Purruja Salad of lettuce, tomato, red onion, carrot, avocado, hard boiled egg served with toasted bread. Norm ordered the Fruitti di mare pasta which was loaded with seafood covering tagliatelle in a creamy white sauce. There was shrimp, calamari, a large tentacle of octopus, and fresh mahi mahi all seasoned with garlic, parsely and fresh parmesan. A great meal in a great setting.
We returned to Soulshine where we worked on our travel blogs before turning in.
On the left our mango and passion fruit juice, and below a close-up of the delicious falafels.
Paz. Our servers Dariany and Nestor.
Left - a colourful hibiscus.
Below, Gayle and Paz.
February 07, 2025 - Playa Avellana with an
unexpected trip to Playa Negra
Breakfast starts at 8:00 am but goes through to 2:00 pm so we got a couple of coffees that we enjoyed on our verandah looking out over the pool, listening to the birds.
Eventually we wandered down to breakfast shortly after 10:00 am. Reviews rave about the breakfasts here at Soulshine and it became apparent why when our plates arrived. With a selection of 11 options Gayle chose the French Toast (made from challah bread, served with fruits and home made coconut caramel) and for Norm the Shak-Shoo-Ka (two eggs in slow cooked Moroccan style; organic tomato salsa, served sizzling in a pan, with challah, dips and green salad). The selection of food, dips, fruit, and salad were all unique, tasty and spectacularly presented, most definitely living up to the reviews. Each breakfast plate was $25 Cdn before tax and service - $30 after. Drinks (coffee or juice) are additional.
The afternoon was spent relaxing in our room and / or by the pool. As we were heading out around 5:00 ish Paz, the front desk representative mentioned to us she noticed our front left tire was a tad low and that she saw a nail in the tire that no doubt was the cause. Paz was unbelievably helpful finding us a fellow in Playa Negra, five kms away who could and would fix our tire.. We arranged to meet at 6:30 pm. On the way we took a short detour to a beach just south of Playa Avellana where we saw the early stages of the seetting sun. From there it was a (very) slow drive to Playa Negra as the road was dotted with potholes that we were very careful to avoid given the potential of the nail dislodging.
We arrived early (just after 6:00 pm) and waited half an hour or so for Fabio and Sonia to return from the beach / sunset. What a wonderful couple. After Fabio did his thing we chatted and took a few photos, incluging of their very friendly rescue dog - Luna. While the prospect of a flat tire was very concerning the experience turned out to be wonderful. Fabio fixed the tire quickly at a cost of $12 US ($17 Cdn) and we got to interact with Fabio and his wife Sonia. It is quite rare to spend even a little bit of time with locals. While we still wish we hadn't picked up the nail this was a wonderful outcome.
With the night market on in Playa Avellana we expected everthing to be busy so decided to eat in Playa Negra. We ended up at La Vida Buena where we ordered a large thin-crusted Caprese pizza - very good.
We felt much more comforable driving back with our repaired tire, after our 'tiring' experience.
Our day starts with robust Costa Rican coffee that we enjoy on our veranda.
We shared a juice with our breakfast - guanabana, pineapple and coconut.
The Shak-Shoo-Ka was accompanies by a tasty green salad.
Colourful Caesalpinia Pulcherrima just outside our cabina.
Our room included a number of local, colourful artifacts.
A very cool pool shower. White ginger - we think. Soulshine's pool.
Fabio and Sonia.
Gayle and Luna.
February 06 - Halifax to Montreal to Liberia, Costa Rica to
Soulshine, Playa Avellana, Guanacaste
It was then on to our 5 hour 20 minute flight to Liberia, Costa Rica. We're guessing it was due to leaving my knee braces on but as we approached immigration after deplaning we were directed to an expedited line where we were processed immediately - our guess being that we saved an hour. We then easily connected with our car rental, shuttled to the off-site lot, picked up our vehicle and off we went.
Our drive took us west a bit, then south to Santa Cruz, and then again west to Playa Avellana and the ocean.
It was indicated as a tad under two hours, which, with a few photo stops is what it turned out to be.
The last 10 km or so was dirt road with a number of potholes making us very thankful for having a high-clearance 4 x 4 SUV.
We arrived at our first lodging - Soulshine, a bit before 5:00 pm (7:00 pm Atlantic time with the two hour time difference).
Along the way we noticed this fellow looking up into a mango tree. We're glad we stopped as there was a troop of howler monkeys throughout the tree. Nice to experience the wildlife so soon after arriving.
After checking in we read our emails and then went out to get something to eat. We ended up at an open air food court place - La Esquina where we sat at a 'picnic table' and had a smoothie from one vendor and some food from another - a brocolli and cheese vegetarian empanada and fries for Gayle and a Gaucho - braised beef, lettuce, mozzarella, chimichurri mayonaise, goucha sauce sandwich with french fries for Norm from an Argentinian Grill.
While the food was tasty and hit the spot we did experience considerable 'sticker shock'. The (small) plate of (admittedly good) French fries was 5,000 colones or over $14 Canadian. Norm's sandwich was tasty but at 8,700 colones or nearly $25 very pricey for what it was.
We know Costa Rica is not inexpensive but this seemed a bit much, particularly when we are not in a major tourist town. It certainly does not help that the value of the Canadian $ versus the Costa Rican Colon is down 9% over this time last year.
We returned to Soulshine where, tired we turned in before 8:00 pm.
A long travel day starting with a 3:30 am wake up to catch our 6:05 am flight to Montreal. From there we connected to a direct YUL to LIB flight to Liberia, in the north of Costa Rica.
We flew down the eastern seaboard of the US, across Cuba, Honduras and finally Nicaragua before reaching CR and landing in Liberia.
It was -18 C when we departed Halifax but, as promised, 32 C when we landed in Liberia.
After clearing immigration, picking up our luggage, and connecting with our car rental we were on our way.
We ate at Fuego Vivo, an Argentinian Grill, in a food courtyard.
Our pineapple, ginger and mint smoothie.
Back to Costa Rica - February 06, 2025 to March 04, 2025
Our full itinerary, with our lodgings are:
- 4 nights at Soulshine in Playa Avellanas
- 4 nights at El Pequeno Gecko Verde, near Samara
- 2 nights at Casa Caleta near San Francisco de Cayote, and then to end our time in the Nicoya
- 4 nights at Ylang Ylang near Manzanilla
We then cross over to Puntarenas and continue south for
- 1 night at Capulin just outside of Tarcoles
- 4 nights at Pacific Edge Eco Lodge near Dominical
- 6 nights at Le Jardin de Los Monos a go to stand by in Matapalo Beach, and finally
- 1 night at the Hampton Inn near the San Jose airport due to an early morning flight home