October 04 2025 - Kritinia (Auberge Kalopetri)
A good day today started with a nice chat with our neighbours Tiny and Perry from Utrecht, Netherlands. They have fallen in love with the relaxing vibe of Kalopetri, returning for a week plus each fall.
Although there were clouds from time to time, with a few rain showers, they would quickly clear for what promises to be a better day weather wise.
Again after breakfast we spent the rest of the morning and into the early afternoon in our unit before heading out to Kritinia and beyond. Today, with directions, we easily found the taverna in Kritinia. Being a Saturday the place was hopping with many large Greek families enjoying their weekly gathering. Gayle spoke with the owner who suggested we come back in an hour or two. Only being mid afternoon not an issue so we continued our drive.
There is a circular route we decided to take that first had us go through the village of Embonas, the wine 'capital' of Rhodes. Embonas is located halfway up the Attavyros, a gray rocky mountain on the top of which is a temple of Zeus. The village is the centre of the wine industry on Rhodes, attracting many tourist daytrips (we saw a number of buses). As a result there were a number of tourist shops in the town, some tacky and others quite authentic. We looked at some runners but in the end only bought a tea towel.
We then continued to drive around Attavyros past a few tribes of goats, many olive groves, the Monastery of Artamitis, also known as the Monastery of Saint John Artamitis. The Monastery is a Greek Orthodox men's monastery built in the 9th century on the site of an ancient temple to the goddess Artemis. It is located near the village of Laermon, known for its library, sacred relics, and historical importance during the Turkish occupation. The original building was damaged and rebuilt in 1859.
We then continued through the rustic village of Ag. Isidoros, the starting point for a circular, waymarked hiking trail up Mount Attavyros, offering panoramic views across the island (no we did not take the walk). Olive and citrus groves surround the village, along with vineyards growing the Athiri grapes used in Retsina wine production. A few tavernas offer dolmades, souvlaki, and the local, grape-infused sumas liqueur.
Continuing our clockwise route we connected with the coastal road that took us through pine forests with great vistas to the sea, and eventually back to Kritinia where we returned to Kalamaris Taverna. We had read that this was not your traditional taverna - there is no menu but rather one is served whatever was made that day by an owner with lots of character. No choice. Right on all accounts. It was still busy when we arrived but Yiorgos immediately sat us down and brought over a plate of mezes. And then another plate, and then more and yet more. We had green beans, Tzatziki, cabbage rolls, tomato, tomato balls, eggplant rolls, a large Greek salad, fries and goat. Adonis (the cook) just kept dishing out the food. Gayle ordered red wine and me retsina. Gayle is not a big fan of retsina but it says something about how bad the red (or brown, or orange) wine was that she drank retsina with her meal. As we lingered after eating Yiorgos gave us a glass of Souma, a strong Greek spirit, with different versions made from grapes (or in Chios figs). Similar to raki or tsipouro souma is the Greek version of Italian grappa, certainly packing a punch. Then some peanuts and finally a plate of grapes.
Our meals were 17.00 euros each, with the informal experience being well worth it. We're very glad we persevered and returned to the Taverna.
Today's plan was to first find Kalamaris Taverna in Kritinia, which we did without any trouble.
However being a Saturday afternoon with the taverna being very busy the owner suggested we come back a bit later which worked for us as we planned to take a drive to Embonas and around the mountain through Ag. Isidoros and back to the coastal road.
It was a very scenic drive, first adjacent to the mountain, then through forests with tribes of goats, past a monastery and then Ag. Isidoros where we stopped for lunch back in 2010.
The hillside village of Embonas is the center of wine production on Rhodes, with several wineries open for tastings and tours. Stores offer the local liqueurs Souma and Ouzo, wine, honey, olive-oil soaps and other handmade rugs and traditional items.
The very impressive church in Ag. Isodoros, a village of only 277 (2021 census)
A fellow just passing time in a taverna during the afternoon.
Narrow (pedestrian) alleyways.
The second time was a charm, now that we had directions to Kalamaris Taverna.
October 03, 2025 - Kritinia (Auberge Kalopetri)
While it did rain through the night the storm was not nearly as bad as forecast. It continued to rain for a while in the morning after we got up but stopped around 9:00 am just before we went up for breakfast. In addition to the occasional thunder we were greeted by the crows of the roosters in the wee hours of the morning.
It is a bit of a climb (45 steps) from our room on the lower level to the reception / breakfast area, with its wonderful view over the surrounding countryside and sea beyond.
Breakfast is a nice spread of cereals, fruit and fruit salad, yoghurt, traditional greek items (tomatoes, cucumber, olives and cheese), ham, cheese, and today salmon, a daily cake / sweet, eggs, and of course juice and coffee. It was so nice to linger over breakfast with the other guests in this tranquil setting.
A strange day weather-wise as it rained off and on - it would clear, then cloudy, turn sunny and then there would be a (sun) shower.
In the afternoon we drove to Kritinia (4.5 kms) in search of a restauarant we heard was unique in that there is no menu with everyone being served whatever was cooked that day. In rural locations at times one reads not to rely on GPS. This was one of them. We spent well over an hour searching for the taverna, back and forth around and through Kritinia, without success.
However some times getting lost is not so bad. For example we ended up out in the countryside on a narrow lane that took us past some beautiful shimmering olive trees to a farm where a fellow was working in his fields. There were vines with ripe grapes, melons and lots of peppers. The friendly farmer tried to give us directions but the language barrier was just too much although it was clear this was not where we needed to be.
Back and forth a number of times through Kritinia where we saw a beautiful mural and met another family, and their dogs, who also gave us a puzzled look.
As we learned later from our waiter at Amythita where we eventually returned for dinner we had actually passed the taverna a number of times but it was closed today because of the weather (all the tables are outside). On the way back we noticed Kritinia Castle which we will drive to some time over the next couple of days.
After returning to Auberge Kalopetri we decided to return to Amythita, the same restaurant we ate at last night. The food was good and the views to the shoreline and sea wonderful. We started with grilled bread with oil and garlic (delicious), Zucchini fritters (nice although a little tzatziki would have been welcome. We asked for a half serving of tzatziki but surprisingly, and disappointingly, they wouldn't do a half portion). Norm had one of his favourites - a plate (1/2 kilo) of lamb chops.
Back to Auberge Kalopetri to bring another day to an end. For the most part very relaxing and chill other than the frustration of being unable to find the taverna. Perhaps tomorrow.
Left - a farmer we came across working in his fields.
Below - fields that included peppers, melons, grapes +++.
October 02, 2025 - Old Rhodes to Kritinia (Auberge Kalopetri)
After our short one night stay at Zacosta Villa Hotel in Old Rhodes town today we headed down the north-west coast to Kritania and Auberge Kalopetri.
But not before being treated to a nice breakfast, including spinach pies and waffles with local honey, and all the other goodies of a Greek breakfast.
While finishing up we met an Australia couple who had just arrived. They have been to Greece as many, if not more times than us. The trip for us to reach Greece is lengthy (10 hours from Toronto to Athens) but compared to the Aussies nothing as it is twice that from Sydney. Many Greeks immigrated to Australia leaving family histories and connections. We met many Australians during our trip. Richard and Diane are as passionate about travelling throughout Greece as are we. They have been to a similar number of islands along with the mainland. We had a short but great chat. Unfortunately they are leaving the morning we return to Zacosta, but nice to have crossed paths, if even briefly.
Not picking our vehicle up until 1:30 pm we went out for a short walk through the alleyways of Old Rhodes town. We were reminded of what a fascinating town this is, with its stone buildings, narrow cobblestone streets, history and interesting shops.
George delivered us to the San Francisco Gate where we met another George from City Car Rental who drove us to their office where we completed paperwork, very very carefully examined the car and then we were off.
The drive along the north-west coast was pretty straightforward and easy, past a number of resorts and beaches, then through some busy suburban villages and the airport.
Once past the airport with the resorts and hotels behind us the drive opened up as we continued south-west towards our destination of Auberge Kalopetri just before Kritania. The drive is only an hour and a half, taking us by a number of greenhouses and along the sea with us arriving just after 3:00 pm. Auberge Kalopetri was very easy to find. Our host Ulrike had to go to Rhodes town for the day leaving the key for us. First impressions are excellent with a nice size unit including a large terrace with fantastic views to the sea.
Auberge Kalopetri is named for the hill on which it was built, a name given by the Italians when they occupied Rodos at the beginning of the 20th century (1912 - 1943). Kalo means ‘good’ and petri means ‘stone’ in Greek language. Parts of the Auberge were built with the stones that were excavated from the rocks on which the Auberge was constructed. Auberge Kalopetri is in the middle of an oasis of peace and nature, surrounded by lemon and orange trees overlooking the Aegean Sea, with the music of the goat bells at the background. The Auberge is located near to the sea (700 meters), ideally for walks and close to the beautiful and authentic village of Kritinia.
After relaxing during the afternoon, listening to the chimes of the goat bells, the crows of the roosters and the bays of the mules, we went to nearby Amythita for dinner. A huge restauarant with tables on the cliffside overlooking the limestone rocks along the shore and the sea. There were only a few guests while we were there. We ate light with Gayle having the Feta in the oven with tomato, pepper, onion and olive oil while Norm the meatballs, with a nice tomato dipping sauce. We shared a plate of 'Fried fresh fries' that turned out to be the best fries of the entire trip.
A short drive back up the hill brought our day to an end. They are calling for severe thunderstorms tonight - not great for tourists but very welcome by the locals who have not experienced rain since the spring.
The Zacosta 'limousine'. The golf cart was perfect for being picked up at either the port or San Franciso gate. We don't know how many others have a similar service but it was unbelievably good and appreciated. Dragging one's luggage over the cobblestones (as seen above) as we did back in 2010 was not pleasant. Of course in old Rodos one must be aware of where one can and cannot park.
October 01, 2025 - Leros to Rodos (Zacosta Villa Hotel)
Today is another travel day - from Leros to Rodos. But not until after we said our good-byes to Al and Kitty ... and Hercules (White Angel must have been too sad to see us go to show up).
Al and Kitty discovered Leros quite by chance. After missing a ferry from Patmos they decided to take a gamble on the next available boat that evening and see where it would take them. Upon arriving into Lakki harbour late at night they were more than a little intrigued. Over ten years later they discussed living on a Greek island, with Leros being the first place on their list. After many years of living and working in London they decided to pick up roots and make Leros their home.
Before leaving we enjoyed a nice chat and a final good-bye with Hercules.
A relatively long ferry today totalling 3 hours and 50 minutes.
From Leros we headed south, first stopping in Kalymnos. Then it was on to Kos (way too resortish) and next the beautiful port of Symi where we had visited back in 2018.
Finally we sailed within a few kms of the Turkiye border before arriving in Rodos to be met by George.
As promised George, who we met when we stayed at Zacosta Villa Hotel (twice) in 2018, was at the port in the Zacosta golf cart to greet us. George is a gem. Nothing is too much for George. John, the owner of Zacosta, was away in Karpathos, where he is from, but will be on-site when we return in four days time.
After settling in and enjoying a very nice shower we headed out to dinner, ending up at Ouzokafenes, a restaurant we ate at last time we were in Rodos. The walk is a bit of a challenge as the old part of Rodos is virtually all small cobble-stones but going 'siga, siga' (slowly slowly) we were fine.
We enjoyed a decent house wine with our meal that started with a plate of olives, some pita bread, and a traditional sausage (for Norm). Gayle then had Moussaka Vegetarian (it is not often a restauarant has vegetarian moussaka meaning Gayle was quite enthused), served in a ceramic bowl. Unfortunately the dish was disappointing, being somewhat bland, or 'flat'. It definately needed more spices. On the other hand Norm had delicious, tender lamb chops, no doubt due to the excessive salt.
It certainly is nice to be back in ancient Rodos - a very unique and interesting city.
George, perhaps the best host ever. Nothing is too much for George who provides constant service with a smile.
To the right our room Raimondo, the smallest of the rooms but stylishly done with a nice wood ceiling.
Named in honor of the Grandmaster Raimondo Zacosta the room has a charming view of the courtyard. Though small the Raimondo is tastefully furnished with attention focused on the handcrafted king size iron "Captains" bed.
Below, the courtyard as seen from above.
September 30, 2025 - Leros (Asterias Apartments)
After breakfast (again home-made on our balcony) on our last full day on Leros we started by driving up past the windmills and castle, located in the north-east of the island just above where we were staying. In a decree of emperor Alexios I Komnenos dated 1087 the Castle of Leros was founded under the name Panteliou Castle. It is built on the foundations of an Ancient Acropolis. A symbol of Leros, the castle offers a wonderful view of much of the island. During the crusades in the 15th century, parts of the Byzantine fortifications were strengthened and the outer enclosure of the castle was built. The two inner enclosures date back to the Middle Byzantine times.
Leros is known for its imposing medieval castle of the Knights of Saint John possibly built on a Byzantine fortress.
On the map we have
1. where we stayed in Panteli Bay
2. Agia Marina, the main town and ferry dock
3. Paralia Kokkina near the War Museum
4. Agia Kioura beach - a very nice isolated beach
5. the refugee centre, and
6. the castle and nearby landmark windmills
Even with the day of rain four days felt about right to see most of the island, a good choice.
On our way back we detoured to see the Church of Agios Isidoros, a picturesque chapel located on a rock connected to the mainland by a narrow, stone causeway. The church is a popular spot for its beautiful views, especially at sunset, and is often used for weddings and christenings. The site is also significant as it is built on the location of an ancient temple.
After returning we headed back to Panteli Bay and Pirofani restaurant where we had enjoyed a nice meal our
first night in Leros. The food was good, especially the Greek Island salad, the service excellent and the ambiance of tables set on the beach very nice. We started with some grilled bread followed by Zucchini
chips with tzatziki. Gayle then again enjoyed the Greek Island salad of cherry tomatoes, capers, samphire and pihtogalo (creamy sour cheese from Chania) - both colourful and tasty. Norm had the shrimp risotto, also an excellent choice, bringing our day to an end.
Thee are six well preserved windmills on the hill leading to the castle, just above where we were staying, dating back to the 17th to 19th centuries. Originally there were nine windmills at this location but over the years three were destroyed.
Here are five of the six windmills that serve as a major landmark for Leros.
Agia Kioura beach, with two others when we arrived who soon left leaving the beach to ourselves.
Agios Isidoros is a picturesque chapel on a rock out in the sea, connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway. Located in the Kokkali area, the chapel is one of the most photographed and romantic spots on the island, known for its stunning sunset views and connection to an ancient temple, the ruins of which can be seen on the seabed and behind the altar.
September 29, 2025 - Leros (Asterias Apartments)
Today was a first in over five months (since April) in that it rained. Intermittent but pretty much all day. Fortunately our balcony has a roof allowing us to still enjoy our home-made breakfast outdoors.
Having bought a supply of oranges we enjoyed our fresh orange juice (thank goodness for the orange juice squeezer we bought a couple of years ago) and peaches to cover our yoghurt, along with the Ikarian honey we still had. Bread from Lipsi, a spinach pie from last night and coffee provided a nice start to this rainy day.
It rained, off and on, throughout the day and as a result we did not go out until dinner. Rather we worked on our travel blogs, enjoyed the views, napped, and spent time with the cats. A very relaxing day.
For dinner we went to nearby Pizzeria Italiana da Michele, owned by Michele, who personally makes the pizzas. Being the only ones there when we arrived I did my 'paparazzi' thing, taking photos of the pizza oven, the preparation of our pizzas and of course Michele. We each ordered the smaller of the two size options, more or less a 'medium'. Gayle had a Vegetarian (11 euros) with tomato, cheese, mushrooms, onion and peppers while Norm had the Diavolo (12 euros) with tomato, cheese, olives, pepperoni and spicy salami. Both were excellent enjoyed in a small, not very fancy family run pizzeria.
It was a short drive back up the hill followed by the decline and 37 steps down to our apartment.
September 28, 2025 - Leros (Asterias Apartments)
Being our first morning without supplies we could not prepare breakfast, as we had done in Lipsi. The best we could do was a cup of Nescafe. Still very pleasurable to just pass away some of the morning on our balcony gazing out to Panteli Bay.
Mid-day we headed out to a fruit and vegetable market to pick up some supplies and then stopped at La Palma Cafe for something to eat. Coffees and a ham, cheese and tomato baguette (really a panini) - great value for only 3.5 euros and a pared down 'Supreme' omelette to share - tomato, cheese and peppers; no bacon or onion.
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While eating we saw this huge facility across the bay - the Closed Controlled Access Centre (CCAC), a refugee centre. The CCAC has a capacity of 2,152. During January through October 2024 (the most recent data we could find) there were 5,969 arrivals, each staying an average of two to two and half months. Most of the refugees (58%) are from Syria, followed by Egypt (8%), Afghanistan (8%) and Yemen (4%). 10% are 'stateless' and 12% 'other'.
Apparently conditions at the facility are not great. A couple of the most pressing issues are the lack of access to hot and potable water as well as malfunctions in the sewage treatment system. Recently the availability of running water has been particularly problematic, stemming from the island’s acute water scarcity and maintenance issues with the desalination plant that supplies the facility. Many residents highlight the poor quality of the food provided. Additionally, there are reports breakfast was not consistently available. The provision of medical services has also been described as severely inadequate. The facility (on 11/11/2024) did not have a doctor but rather a bare bones medical staff of six nurses, a midwife, a psychologist, and a social worker. Medical assessments by a doctor are often unavailable for newly arrived individuals. Accessing medical assistance for residents is extremely challenging.
Assuming these reports are anywhere close to being accurate, while the refugees do have a roof over their heads, their lives appear to be pretty miserable.
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We continued down the coast to Kokkina Beach, rocky but nicely set in a cove. It was not very busy with perhaps three other couples enjoying the sun and water. On the way we passed the war museum of Leros, located in nearby Merikia.
During the 1912 to 1943 Italian occupation of the Dodecanese, the Italian navy understood this exceptionally protected bay with a narrow entrance between two points of land that tighten like pincers would be the most suitable location for the creation of a port fortified military; which was in fact built there to be a naval base like a real 'Pearl Harbor' of the Mediterranean.
The museum is not in a classic building, but rather in a tunnel in the mountain built by the Italians in 1930 as an ammunition depot. The whole island is crossed by tunnels that were dug by order of Mussolini.
At the entrance there is an airplane, tank, other military off-road and transport vehicles and the damaged remains of other vehicles hit by grenades or bombs, along wiith various types of weapons. There are interesting preserved historical objects including weapons, clothing and personal belongings of the era.
In the rooms of this otherwise called 'War Material Storage' or museum of war, one can see a great collection of weapons, uniforms and various accessories of the Italian, British and German departments, involved in those furious fights of 1943.
The museum includes a monument in memory of the Italian, Greek and English soldiers who fell in the war from September 26, 1943 through November 16, 1943 on the occasion of the Battle of Lero: a fierce battle against the Germans, which was central to the development of the Dodecanese military campaign.
The museum is only open in the morning meaning it was closed when we passed by. Perhaps tomorrow.
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Having eaten early afternoon we did not feel a need for dinner. Rather we bought a couple of spinach pies which we enjoyed along with our bottle of Leros wine (which really was not that good), admiring the buildings lit by the moon across the ravine.
One of the churches seen from our lodging / Asterias Apartments.
Buildings rising up the hill from Panteli.
Enjoying her swim. To go in or not to go in? ... Norm went in.
Our 'adopted' Hercules, who has made himself at home.
September 27, 2025 - Lipsi to Leros (Asterias Apartments)
Today we leave Lipsi. When planning the trip while Gayle was insistent on four days in Lipsi I thought, given the size, three would be plenty. I am glad Gayle prevailed, even admitting we could have stayed longer. The island has a quiet, laid back feel to it, reminiscent of Koufonisia back in 2015. Our lodging was sweet and comfortable, the availability of cars to rent was great, there are a few decent beaches and a number of very good restaurants.
We prepared another breakfast in our room before saying good-bye to Nektaria, returning 'George' and catching the ferry to Leros.
Normally the ferry is a short 20 minute trip yet we took a tad over an hour as we backtracked to Patmos before crossing to Leros.
We arrived in Agia Marina port where our car rental guy was waiting. Some paperwork and we were off on a short 10 minute drive to Panteli Bay where we were met by Al and Hercules, the cat who quickly adopted us.
The apartment is simple but large. The balcony is a 10+ - large with a table and couch and an expansive view of Panteli Bay, the bathroom, especially the shower not.
We spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying the sunshine on our balcony and setlling in.
For dinner we went down to Panteli Harbour where we ended up at the restauarnt Al recommended - Pirofani, located right on the waterfront. Neither of us was particularly hungry meaning we ate light. We started with some tasty pita bread before Gayle had a super delicious Greek Island salad mostly of cherry tomatoes, but also caper greens, olives, rusks and pihtogalo, a creamy sour cheese from Chania, Crete. Norm had a fairly non-descript fish soup - mostly broth with a few pieces of fish. For only 10 euros I guess we were not expecting much more, with the soup living up to our expectations.
The jury is still out on Leros but it certainly appears to have potential.
Unfortunately Anna, originally from Nottingham, England but married to a Greek and having lived in Lipsi for 30 years now, was recovering on Rodos from a motorcycle accident, and as such we did not get to meet her. In her place Nektaria did a wonderful job looking after us, including voluntarily washing our dirty beach towels and blanket.
A little bit about Lipsi. Leipsoi is a small group of islets in the north of the Dodecanes. The larger Leipsi-Arkoi archipelago consists of 37 island and islets of which only three are larger than one square kilometer -Agreloussa, Arkoi and Lipsi, the largest at 16 square kms. Only Lipsi, Arkoi and Marathos are inhabited The population of Lipsi (2021 census) was 778. Lipsi is a charming island with a beautiful port. There are a number of beaches and churches, all within easy reach. The port has a surprising number of excellent restaurants and a number of Ouzerias on the waterfront.
We returned to the Bakery for breakfast this morning, again crowded with locals and a number of tourists. It is certainly a gathering place. For drinks we had a capucchino freddo (Gayle) and a fresh orange juice (Norm), two spinach pies, and a large piece of pistachio baklava, the centre of which looked a bit like spinach. The bakery was full of bakery stuff - cookies, bread (we bought a loaf of excellent rustic bread), pies, sweets, and on and on.
In the afternoon, after a short drive north of the port, we returned to Katsadia Beach for a short swim. We then slowly made our way back to town stopping often to enjoy the scenary and views.
We then wanted to have a drink at one of the Ouzerias on the waterfront. While the 1/4 litre of wine was somewhat pricy, perhaps not unexpected given the location, it was nice to just sit and watch people wander by, and the fish guy do his thing.
We then returned for diner to To Pefko, where we ate the first night. Gayle started with Tirokafteri - a traditional spicy cheese dip, followed by Melitzanaki Tilikto - rolled aubergines filled with cheese in tomato sauce. Both were very good. Norm had the Gigantes me Loukaniko - big broad beans in tomato sauce with sausage. Too big an appetizer serving with too many broad beans and not so much sausage - just ok. Then the Garides Linguine - prawns in a cherry tomato linguini. The dish was light on the cherry tomatoes but the six large juicy prawns in the linguine were very good.
When we asked for a container to take home the leftover spicy cheese dip the waiter simply brought us a plastic bag and told us to take the dish (and spoon) and just return them in the morning. For some reason we were not surprised ... small island Greece.
Cappucchno freddo (for Gayle) and fresh orange juice (for Norm).
The busy bakery / cafe.
We wanted to experience spending some time on the Lipsi waterfront. We stopped at Ouzeri Asprakis where we had some wine while simply watchng the boats in the harbour and people wandering by. Yes the wine was expensive but the experience worth the little extra cost.
Again we had a 'homemade' breakfast in our studio before going out for a drive around the south-eastern half of the island on what was another beautiful sunny day.
Apparently there are 37 churches in Lipsi (although other sources have similar but differnet numbers), far more than would be expected for its small size. Like other Greek islands, the practice of building
private chapels became common, often for spiritual reasons like seeking blessings for safe travels or as a sign of wealth and piety.
Many of these small chapels are still maintained by local families today, serving as spiritual centers for the community and a testament to its deep faith. We won't say we saw all 37 but if felt as we did as around just about every corner we came upon yet another beautifully maintained church - some very small, some quite significant in size.
We eventually laid our beach blanket at Kasadia beach - not that wide but with a nice stone wall that served as a nice bench. While there a young couple who we had seen a number of times before in Patmos, on the ferry to Lipsi, and at Manoli's Tastes passed by. Gayle struck up a conversation with Johnny and Neve, from London, although Johnny is Greek. A very nice young couple having just graduated and trying to figure out the rest of their lives. Nice of them to stop and chat.
We randomly drove the countryside, passing more churches, more goats, a strange bird cage with a significant number of exotic birds, old olive trees, and vineyards, all within range of the beautiful blue sea dotted with sailboats, and one paddle boarder and his dog.
We chose to eat at Vasilikos tonight, another restaurant on the harbour front. Gayle started with Bougourdi with Kavourmas - a spicy baked feta with tomato dip followed by Eggplant and chickpeas with tomatoes in the oven. Norm went with the lamb in the oven special - also very nice.
The once again very short drive returned us to Rizos studios where we worked on our travel blogs before retiring for the night.
An old olive tree with what looks like a face - what face do you see?
Our first full day on Lipsi was like most first full days on a new island ... pretty relaxed.
Breakfast is not included at Rizos Studios although there is a fridge, hot plates, plates, bowls, cutlery etc. to do one's own. While we will tomorrow and another day we had yet to pick up groceries so went down to the bakery in the port where we had coffees, a spinach pie each and a cinnamon bun, plus picked up a piece of baklava to take back for an afternoon snack.
While enjoying our food this fellow comes over and asks about my Ylang Ylang shirt - a place we stayed in Costa Rica earlier this year. Jonathan had not only been but knows the owners quite well and had stayed for a few months. I regretted not getting a photo of the two of us but being a small island it was not shocking that we would cross paths again that evening while we were out eating. This time Gayle did take our photo.
In the afternoon we headed to the north end of Lipsi - 5 kms or only 10 minutes by car. A very pretty drive along the coast during which we could admire the deep blue of the sea and a number of goats along the way.
There was not much at the end other than a few fishing boats in the small harbour and one of the many churches in Lipsi. However a km before there was a decent beach - Platis Gialos, meaning wide shore. The beach is easily accessible at the end of a bay that apparently can be affected the strong winds but was calm during our visit / swim. There is now a taverna if one was staying longer.
After returning to Rizos Studios, where we enjoyed that piece of baklava we purchased - excellent, and relaxed before heading to dinner at Manoli's Tastes, a restaurnant that is highly recommended, including by Captain Jason. We were given a nice table on the flat in what was a beautiful outdoor setting. Gayle started with the Bruschetta with smoked eggplant and goat cheese (just ok) before having a Salad with Pear and Goat Cheese, comprised of lettuce, rocket, baked pears, cheese, croutons and honey vinaigrette (very good). Norm could not resist the grilled octopus - presented in sliced pieces rather than a whole tentacle (excellent). We were treated to limoncellos after our meal.
After dinner we got to chatting with the couple at the next table - Kathryn and Phil from outside Manchester, England and then another couple - John and Eileen from Scotland. During our chat Chef Manoli visited our (and all other) tables to say hello, and as mentioned we ran into Johnathan again. We shared experiences withg Kathryn and Phil until well past 10:00 pm, actually being the last one's to leave the restaurant.
The Monastery of St. John the Theologian. By monastery standards very 'new' being built less than 100 years ago, in 1931.
Moving day. We awoke to another glorious day of sun and warmth. We enjoyed a final breakfast at 9 Muses, chatting with Gerta and Vasilis. Late morning we were off to fill the car with fuel (only 13 euros for the four days on the island) and return the car, then to wait for our Dodekanisos ferry.
What could have been a much shorter (20 minutes) ferry directly to Lipsi turned out to be somewhat longer at 1 hour 25 minutes as the Dodekonisos Express first went to Agathonisi before returning to Lipsi.
The seas were reasonably calm.
Very much appreciated was how staff handled luggage, storing it for passengers in locations based on destination.
After settling in we drove down to the port where we saw a board at To Pefko that was advertising Paella as the dinner special. Restaurant decision done. And excellent the paella was, with three very large tasty shrimp, mussels, and other fish amongst the rice. Gayle had two dishes (with a little help from Norm) she very much enjoyed - Militzanosalata, a salad of smoked aubergine and Bougyiourti Pikantiko, a dish of tomato, feta, oregano, spices and olive oil. Both were excellent.
It is a three minute drive back up the hill to Anna's to bring an end to our first day on Lipsi. First impressions are very positive. We expect we are going to very much enjoy our time here.
Our friendly car rental guy. Gayle waiting (with others) for the ferry.
Another chilled day in Patmos. We started with the regular filling breakfast after which we went to Petra Beach for a swim. After changing, we drove to Chora where we wandered through the alleyways of the hilltop town, dominated by the massive Monastery.
"The Monastery of Saint John the Theologian also called Monastery of Saint John the Divine is a Greek Orthodox monastery founded in 1088. It is named after St John of Patmos the author of the Christian Book of Revelations who, according to the text, lived on the island when visions of the apocalypse came to him. Since its founding, the monastery has been a pilgrimage site and a place of Greek Orthodox learning and worship. The monastery is unique in that it integrated from its founding the surrounding community of Chora, which was built around its fortifications. Religious ceremonies that date back to the early Christian period are still practiced within the monastery today. Because of its sacred significance, uninterrupted architectural evolution, and the exceptional preservation of early Christian customs, the monastery was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, along with the town of Chora and the nearby Cave of the Apocalypse."
It was amazingly quiet as we walked through the alleyways of the lower portion of Chora. The views to the countryside, the sea and the nearby windmills is stunning from this elevated position. We did come across a couple of elderly ladies simply passing time and a few other tourists meandering about.
One episode somewhat ruined the experience, that being Gayle getting into a bit of a kerfufle with a shop owner when she took a few pictures of some clay cats (details with the photos below).
Afterwards we returned to Petra Beach and Ktima Petra for dinner. Gayle had a Greek salad (not having one in a few days) along with potatoes in the oven (guaranteed to have been roasted separate from any goat or lamb) while Norm had the goat with oven potatoes. The goat was unusually meaty, with only a couple of small bones and very little fat.
A short drive had us back at 9 Muses where we turned in.
As mentioned there was an 'incident' when Gayle took a photo of these cats, they being outside a shop in the alleyway. The owner came out of his shop and told Gayle she could not take any photos. While there was a sticker indicating not to handle the merchandise there was nothing indicating one could not take photos. Plus they were in a public space.
The shop owner then stated, quite forcefully, Gayle had no appreciation of artists to which she pushed back noting we have considerable pieces of art in our home, and yes she did.
The shame of it was the pottery (and cats) were very nice and we very well may have bought something. But after being berated there was no way that was going to happen.
We came across this woman first resting in the square of Chora but them actively engaged in a conversation with another friend who happened by.
First, a little bit about Patmos (actually named Latmos in antiguity). Historical discoveries indicate that the ancient Acropolis of the isalnd was inhabited in the Middle Bronze Age, with the first residents being the Dorians, followed by the Ionians. The walls of the Kasteli date back to the 6th and 4th centruies BC. During the 12th century Patmos was invaded by pirates and later, after the fall of Constantinople to the Turks in 1453 P received a significant number of refugees who contributed to the prosperity of Chora.
Recently Patmos was occupied by the Italians from 1912 to 1943. In 1948 Patmos officially became part of Greece.
In 1981 Patmos was officially recognized by the Greek Parliament as the Holy Island. In 1999 the island was established globally when the Holy monastery of Saint John the Theologian, the Holy Cave of the Aprocoplis and the medieval village of Chora were included as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The EU includes Patmos among the seven most important worship destinations in Europe, no doubt a reason the island being a cruise ship destination.
Today the 3,000 residents live mainly in Chora, Skala and Kampos. Sunny summers, a mild Mediterranean climate, peaceful ambiance, dry rocky hills and small valleys blend together to provide an attractive array of beaches, bays, ports, and isolated havens.
Across the island there are many small chapels, 180 of which are recorded, although there are indications there may be over 400. The capital, Chora, itself apparently has 51 churches.
Being only 45 square kilometres it is very easy to drive from one end of the island to the other, as well as to various beaches. Today we passed through Skala and toured the north end of Patmos, first to Kampos and then across the barren hills to Lambi Beach, easily accessible by car, on the northeastern coast. Here we had our first swim of the trip.
The beach is known for its rare colourful pebbles. In fact its name means 'sparkling' coming from the shimmering azure waters and the way the pebbles sparkle in the sunlight. Over the years the number of pebbles has diminished such that their removal is now forbidden by law.
After dinner we got chatting with the diner at the next table - Captain Jason (Vavlitis). Jason has spent his life sailing the Greek islands, most recently on his yacht Elegance. He has sailed the equivalent of eight times around the world, starting with a four year journey from Boston to Greece. When hearing we were going to be visiting Leros, he provided a wealth of suggestions (restaurants, museums, places to visit), along with restaurants in Lipsi.
Known for its colourful pebbles there was nothing impresssive from a distance but as one got near the water they certainly did glisten in the sun.
Jason has spent his life sailing the Greek islands, chartering his yacht Elegance. He has sailed the equivalent of eight times around the world, starting with a four year journey from Boston to Greece.
When hearing we were going to be visiting Leros each provided a wealth of suggestions (restaurants, museums, places to visit), along with restaurants in Lipsi.
We chatted for well over an hour, sharing stories of travelling.
Breakfast here at 9 Muses is customized to each individual's preferences and certainly exhaustive. Starting with coffee of one's choice (espresso, capucchino, Americano, espresso freddo, capucchino freedo) and freshly squeezed orange juice - we watched it being squeezed. There is toast (nothing special), jams, tomato, cucumber, olives and feta, cereal or muesli, eggs - fried, boiled, omelette or scrambled (delicious) filled with whatever one wants - ham, bacon, mushrooms, peppers, onions, tomato etc., yoghurt with fresh fruit, honey or both, a large fresh fruit plate and a serving of cakes.
Breakfast is served by Gerta, from Athens but in Patmos for the summer to earn enought euros to purchase her first vehicle. Very accommodating and helpful she was easy to chat with, sharing her story of family, education etc. We enjoyed her company.
After breakfast we lounged around our suite, watching the boats (small cruise ships, ferries, and sailboats) come and go.
Late afternoon we went out for a drive towards Chora. While we saw the windmills circulating in the still substantial wind we passed on going up into Chora, leaving it for another day. We then continued on to Skala where we wandered a bit through the very cute port side town, set up to accommodate cruise passengers - both with food and shopping opportunities.
We decided to have dinner at Tzivaeri, across the road from the harbour. We ordered quite light - Gayle the Zucchini flowers stuffed with rice accompanied by a dip of Greek yoghurt and Norm the Lamb kebabs with potatoes. Good food.
After eating we headed back to 9 Muses to bring a mostly relaxing day to an end.
After a good sleep we awoke to enjoy a nice breakfast at Hotel Byzance before checking out. We can't empasize enough how grateful we were for things working out as well as they did - for us realizing the Dodekanisos ferry was cancelled due to the Meltemi winds and our fortune in finding a nice hotel so near to the port. As mentioned it could have been so so much worse.
We picked up our rental car (the cutest little blue car) as planned and off we were on a 6 km / 10 minute drive - nothing is far on Patmos - to our next stop - 9 Muses. We were warmly greeted by Vasilis who escorted us to our upgraded Suite. Not sure why we were upgraded but happy we were. A beautiful unit, with both a large inside seating area and a very large terrace with wonderful views to the bay and passing sailboats, ferries and cruise ships.
For dinner Vasilis recommended nearby Flisvos in Petra Bay, known for their chickpeas in the oven - very appealing to Gayle - and goat. We enjoyed a great meal and equally nice chat with a number of the staff. We shared the Fried zucchini balls with Feta cheese mousse followed by, of course, Chickpeas in the Oven with Rosemary for Gayle and no not the goat but rather the Sausages with leek for Norm. All were delicious. With the taverna closing for the year in two days - a bit early but there is an impending birth in the family so they are shutting down - there was a 'sale' on wine. As a result we ordered a botttle of 3 Genies - a winery north-west of Thessaloniki near the border with North Macedonia - 36 euros offered to us for 19 euros.
The menu included a history of the family / taverna. I chatted with Katerina who offered to forward an English copy via email (below). An excellent meal made even better by chatting with the family. We promised to return Sunday, their last day open for the year.
It was a very short (perhaps three minutes) drive back to 9 Muses to bring the day to an end.
_________________
It was sometime between 1956 and 1959 when grandfather Kyriakos, sitting next to grandmother Sofia, was gazing out over the bay of Grikos. The decision had been made – this would be the place for their tavern. All that remained now was to find the right name. The setting was peaceful, the sea gently lapping at the shore … and then came that sound – that soft, comforting sound of the waves – and with it, inspiration. But not entirely his own.
– Give me a name, he asked his friend, Dr. Gazis.
– Don’t you hear it?
– Hear what?
– Don’t you hear it? It’s calling you.
– What’s calling me?
– The flisvos of the sea.
– Huh?
– Call it Flisvos.
And just like that, through a simple conversation, a name was born – one that would carry through the decades.
After three years of hard work, Kyriakos – along with about 30 workers – managed to complete the building of the restaurant, in a remote location where everything had to be brought in by boat. In 1959, Flisvos opened its doors for the very first time: the first restaurant in Grikos, and the second on the entire island of Patmos. With care, craftsmanship, and a wood-fired oven for all his cooking, he began to win over the hearts of the early visitors.
The real change came after 1970, when tourism slowly began to emerge on the island. Grandfather Kyriakos, faithful to quality and flavor, passed his passion and knowledge on to his sons, Floros and Pavlos. In 1980, he handed over the reins. One, with his natural gift for connecting with people, drew in more and more guests; the other, by creating a signature recipe, gave Flisvos its own gastronomic identity.
Together with their wives, they elevated and expanded the family business, keeping tradition alive in a modern world. For 35 years, they carried on with care and respect for their roots.
Today, 66 years later, the flame is kept burning by the grandchildren – Kyriakos and Kyriakos-Valantis – who continue the vision of their grandparents, walking the path of modern gastronomy with deep respect for the past. Flisvos remains a landmark in Grikos – not only for its flavors, but for the story it carries.
A story that began with a sound.
The sound of the sea. "
Pretty painted buildings in Skala.
Boats in the harbour.
Flisvos' famous chickpeas in the oven. Sausages with leek.
Hard at work (?) in the kitchen.
It all began with Kyriakos and Sofia, who fulfilled their dream to open the restaurant in 1959
It could have ended up so much worse.
Our plan for today
- enjoy another nice breakfast,
- perhaps go to the thermal hot springs, and
- have dinner on the beach at a taverna out near the airport.
Norm went to the bakery to get another cheese pie, some bread and cookies. Check. Fresh orange juice made. Check. Yogurt with fruit and honey. Check. A tasty breakfast. Check.
But then late morning we were checking the time of tomorrow's ferry when we noted there were no more tickets for sale. &*%$#&%(*$%!!! We immediately hopped in the car and drove to the ferry office where we inquired about the absence of tickets. While the agent never mentioned the ferry had been actually cancelled (it turned out it was) she confirmed there were no tickets to be had. Our options were
- wait until Sunday, or
- take the Blue Star this evening (8:40 pm) from Evdilos on the other side of the island.
We almost simultaneously concluded Option 2, which meant
- checking out today - fortunately we had plenty of time,
- arranging to return the car this evening in Evdilos rather than tomorrow morning in Agios Kirykos, and
- book a hotel in Patmos.
The check out was no problem although we of course had to pay for ther room, which was totally fair as we used it until nearly 5:00 ish. The switch to the car rental was also easy although there was a cost of 25 euros to meet Theo and drop the car off in Evdilos. That said he very generously refunded us 35 euros for the most of the day we ended up not using the car. The final piece was finding a hotel in Skala, the port of Patmos within walking distance of the port. We connected with Hotel Byzance who had a room for a very reasonable 87 euros. Yes the room was small but very functional with a desk, screens on the windows, air conditioning, a hair dryer, and a decent buffet breakfast included - really everything one would want.
The drive to Evidos was fine with us arriving a couple of hours in advance, enough time to have a bite to eat at one of the harbour side tavernas. The food was pretty much as expected - an ok Greek Salad and not so great frozen french fries. Although he was 15 minutes late we connected with Theo from the car rental agency. He nicely drove us around the port right to the holding area for the ferry boarding. The ferry ended up being late, not leaving until after 9:00, and as a result late arriving in Patmos but the walk to the hotel was exactly as advertised - very short. Check in was efficient and we were soon sound asleep.
The day included a consider amount of anxiety but a far better outcome than had we bought our tickets a day or two earlier and simply showed up not realizing the ferry was cancelled due to the high winds being experienced - 60 k/hr with gusts up to 80 k/hr. When travelling via ferry in Greece one has to be prepared for the odd glitch. Fortunately we survived this one without too many scars.
Up early this morning to catch the sunrise.
After which it was off to the bakery where freshly baked cheese pies were coming out of the oven.
A Greek salad and Fries - we weren't expecting a high end meal while waiting for the ferry in Evdilos, and got what we expected - a decent Greek Salad but obviously frozen, not hand cut fries.
with a drive to Evdilos and the eastern half of the island
We awoke to another 'not a cloud in the sky' gorgeous Greek morning. Breakfast was similar to yesterday during which we planned our next two days. Today we decided to drive to the north coast, then west to Evdilos; then south and east back to Agios Kirykos, with a planned stop for dinner in Xilosirtis and tomorrow perhaps the thermal hot springs and dinner at a taverna on the beach out towards the airport.
We left just after noon for what was indicated as a two hour drive (which we knew would take us four hours) in a counterclockwise direction. We first ascended the mountain providing expansive views to the south and east to Samos, and Turkiye beyond. Along the route we noticed some traditional stone homes with slate roofs, a military installation (no photos allowed), lots of roadside thistles, and bee boxes where the bees do their thing to provide the tasty Ikarian honey. Throughout the drive the rich blue sea is always visible.
We sat on a bench adjacent to the harbour of the pretty port town of Evdilos where we ate our bougatsa.
We then continued our drive a bit east and then south again through the mountains during which we came upon a number of very cute sheep and goats. We love seeing the animals near, or at times on, the roads during our travels. Stone buildings, some with slate roofs, and small churches were seen along the way. Upon reaching the south coast (and the sea) we headed east until reaching the small village of Xilosirtis. Totally out of proportion to the village itself, but very impressive is the massive church.
We easily found Arodou, a restaurant with fabulous views of the sea where we enjoyed a great late afternoon meal. Gayle started with one of the best tzatziki we have ever had while I had the Kathoura - Icarian goat cheese with oil and oregano. Delicious. Gayle then enjoyed the Grilled vegetables comprised of peppers, zucchini, eggplant and mushrooms while Norm had Meat patties (beef and pork) stuffed with cheese. Also excellent. We accompanied the meal with a bolttle of Karimalis Aralle Dry Red. Not the best wine we have ever had, perhpas because it was served chilled, but decent just the same. Our kind server Rosa was wonderful, chatting a bit with us about her travels throughouth Greece after our meal.
It was a short 20 minute drive back to Agios Kirykos during which we stopped for more oranges for tomorrow's breakfast.
Local Ikarian honey is perfect for enhancing the taste of the yoghurt with fruit, in this case peaches.
Ripe quinces.
Day two ... for the most part copy and paste day one, except for breakfast
We decided to do our own breakfast to enjoy on our balcony with our expansive views of the sea. The previous evening we purchased some yoghurt, coffee, a peach and oranges. But what about a cheese or spinach pie? Having slept in quite late ... 9:30 am ... I got in the car and off I was to the nearby bakery where the baker was still baking the day's bread. I bought a couple of cheese pies (the only type they had) and a variety of cookies (along with water and a bag of tapas / potato chips).
Back to Pyrgos Traditional Village where I got to work preparing breakfast for us. While gone Gayle bought a jar of Ikarian honey from the reception area which topped the yoghurt with peaches. Then out came our orange juice squeezer we had purchased a few years ago during a previous trip to Greece. Three oranges for a smaller glass for Gayle and four for a larger glass for me. Cost $3.37 Cdn for two glasses of freshly squeezed OJ - the labour was free. Fresh and delicious. Then the cheese pies, a plate of Greek cookies and some leftover Greek salad from the first night.
The rest of the day was spent in and around our unit, researching what we might do and where we might go over the next couple of days ... and of course for me having the compulsarary nap, today again on a comfy lounge chair by the pool.
For dinner we again went down to the port, eating at Paprika, a Grill House. We each had what the restaurant calls 'a Portion' - a plate of pita bread, tomatoes, a few greens, for Gayle onions (I passed), tzatziki, french fries and a choice of skewered meat (I had a kebab - a beef and pork mixture) or for vegetarians a number of falafal patties. When I saw retsina in a bottle I could not resist. So much better than that drink they called retsina I had last night.
It is a fairly short five to ten minute drive up the hill towards Panagia and then down the quite rough, narrow lane to Pyrgos Traditional Village, where still quite tired from our flight overseas we again turned in early.
While our breakfast yesterday was ok we decided to make our own today. Starting of course with coffee (our unit has a Nespresso machine) and fresh orange juice. Yoghurt with cut peaches and Ikarian honey. Some leftover feta, tomatoes and cucumber from last night and from the bakery cheese pies and a selection of cookies. All enjoyed on our balcony overlooking the Aegean sea.
We expected we would be tired our first day ... and we were, spending the entire day, except for a trip to the port for dinner, in our unit. We woke a number of times during the night, once even getting up during a break in the howling winds to sit on our terrace under the moon and stars.
Pyrgos traditional village, originally built to form a small community, is a traditional neighborhood of 8 detached buildings of various types. It is a small village on top of Agios Kirykos. The village incorporates traditional, mostly local materials, surrounded with olive trees, gardens with local herbs and vineyards. Each room reveals a panoramic view of the Southern Aegean Sea. Narrow stone-built paths lead to the central pool, gardens, and the parking area.
Photo from Pyrgos Traditional Village website
The ruins of a little tower mill positioned on top of Agios Kirykos, gave birth to the idea. ‘Pyrgos traditional village’ is almost a 20 year-building project, new houses and restoration, all with traditional architecture methods. The stone was directly excavated from the site, the clay, the sand, the canes, the slate slabs, most of the wood all from the island.
Three breakfast options are provided - the Standard tray, Traditional tray and Super Food tray. Gayle had the standard tray consisting of jam, slow baked sourdough local bread, Icarian honey, cereal / oat flakes, edam cheese, boiled eggs, orange juice, coffee and a seasonal fruit (today figs) while I had the Traditional tray with soft goat cheese and local dried fruits. We ate breakfast in a nice garden area. While the tables were small for the large trays with no one else there, other than a couple of very polite cats, we each had our own table.
As mentioned most of the day was spent in our attractive stone built unit with wonderful views of the Aegean Sea. An afternoon nap by the pool was enjoyed.
We did go into town for dinner, ending up at Klimataria, a cute taverna set in a back alley. One would think it would be protected from the wind but not so. Gayle had the special of the day - a very healthy chick pea, vegetable soup but then countered that with a not-so-healthy very large serving of french fries. Norm, in addition to helping eat the fries, had saganaki (fried Greek cheese) followed by lamb in lemon sauce. The food was good but the drink not so. The retsina was the strangest amber colour I've ever encountered and the taste ... not the retsina I am accustomed to and not good at all. The red wine was not much better. With water and bread the meal came to 42.0 euros.
Back up and then down the hill to Pyrgos Tradional Village where, in spite of the early hour, we called it a night.
Off again for our fall trip to Greece (and Turkiye). For Gayle her 12th time in Greece and for me my 10th - she went twice in her teens before we met.
This year we are returning to the Dodecanese, where we visited in 2018. We start in Ikaria, an island we visited (at least the western half) in 2019 before working our way south all the way to Kastellorizo from where we will cross over to Turkiye for eight days, returning to Rodos and then home.
Everything went smoothly starting with our friend Brian Slaunwhite entertaining us as he delivered us to the airport. All fights departed and arrived on time, except the Air Canada flight from Montreal to Athens that was 45 minutes early, meaning we had to be bussed to the terminal as there was no gate available. The only slight glitch was that we could not check in for our Sky Express flight until three hours before departure leaving us a couple of hours to spend in a restaurant where we purchased a lemonade and a coffee in order to be able to sit and use their internet.
We were greeted by Vassia who checked us in, showed us to our room, and arranged to order us some food to be delivered. We chose a Greek Salad and a gyros - in this case pork cooked on a vertical rotisserie, then sliced and served wrapped or stuffed in pita bread, along with other ingredients such as tomato, onion, fried potatoes, and tzatziki. Both hit the spot.
As is always the case when flying to Europe, although it was still early we were exhausted, so much so that I don't recall my head hitting the pillow.
After not arriving until after 6:30 pm we had no interest in heading out for dinner.
Fortunately Pyrgos Traditional Village will arrange for food to be delivered. The pizza joint was closed so we went with the alternative that included a pork pita gyro and a large Greek salad.
Both, delivered, cost only 11.50 euros.
Although we had eaten a bit in the lounges it was great to have some more food.
And there is nothing better to start the trip with than a Greek salad.
Mamma Mia here we go again
back to Greece for the fourth consecutive year.
This year we are returning to the Dodecanese (some of whihc we visited in 2018)in the south-eastern Aegean Sea, along the border with Turkiye.
In fact we will be spending 8 nights in Turkiye, between the town of Kas and Marmaris.
Our itinerary will take us south from
- the island of Ikaria (five nights), one of the five 'blue zones' in the world, regions where people live significantly longer and healthier lives,
- to the island of Patmos (four nights), then on to
- the island of Lipsi (also four nights), then
- the island of Leros (again four nights), before returning to
- the island of Rodos / Rhodes where we will stay a couple of nights in Rhodes town followed by four nights further south-west.
- then it is to the small island of Kastellorizo for three nights before crossing over to Kas in Turkiye where we will work our way north for eight days staying at two places along the way
- then a ferry from Marmaris back to Rhodes for a final two nights again in the city of Rhodes followed by three nights in the ancient town of Lindos.
A total of 39 nights we return October 24th.