Norm and Gayle Travels

Our memories of Greece 2025:

Yet another great trip - until it wasn't. We enjoyed nearly four weeks on the islands of Ikaria, Patmos, Lipsi, Leros, Rodos and Kastellorizo, bringing the total number of Greed islands we have visited to 40. Regrettably Norm had a bad fall disembarking the ferry in Kastellorizo necessitating curring our trip short and returning home early. Here are our most vivid memories:

our most vivid memory is not a good one - Norm's fall disembarking the ferrry in Kastellorizo
George at Zacosta
the service and generosity of George and John at Zacosta
feeling like royalty being driven over the cobblestones by George and John in Old Rhodes Town
Elina / family and the care provided at Hotel Kastellorizo
Gayle pushing / pulling Norm around the harbour of Kastellorizo, especially over the flagstones
Gayle developing a new appreciation of the importance of wheelchair accessibility
the helpfulness of locals when Gayle was struggling over those flagstones
how fortunate we were there was a medical clinic and a wheel chair to borrow in Kastellorizo
the full moons spotlighting the castle in Kastellorizo
the very pretty harbour of Kastellorizo, especially when the blue skies and sun came out
'Disability Class' with the airlines - the airport staff were particularly talkative and friendly
the very rough ferry from Rodos to Kastellorizo
the beauty and history of Old Rhodes Town
Gayle enjoying a cafe freddo
the beautiful cobblestone pathways, especially in Old Rhodes Town
our delicious meal at To Rodi, in Old Rhodes Town, especially the vegetarian moussaka and lamb kleftiko
pomegranate trees in To Rodi restaurant and around Auberge Kalopetri
waking up to the rooster in Leros and Auberge Kalopetri
the friendliness and service of Ulrike and all staff at Auberge Kalopetri
dinner of whatever Adonis cooked that day at Taverna Kalamaris, Kritinia
getting lost searching for Taverna Kalamaris
our day drive through Embonas and Ag. Isodora and the surrounding countryside
goats - lots and lots of goats
Hercules and White Angel, our house cats in Leros
a couple of enjoyable swims in Lipsi and Leros
enjoying drinks, a spinach pie and cookies on a cafe's waterfront waiting for the ferry in Leros
the views from just about everywhere in Lipsi
pistachio baklava (Lipsi)
the abundance of excellent restaurants in Lipsi
George car rental - the informality
the very cute and comfortable Rizos Studios
the overall charm of Lipsi - churches, beaches, the laid-back vibe
Vasilis and Gerta at 9 Muses
the endless blue of the sea - sometimes dark blue; sometimes turquoise and all shades in between
our beautiful (upgraded) unit with its large terrace and great views to the sea at 9 Muses
the windmills of Patmos and Leros
limoncello ice cream bars (Leros)
the many beautifully maintained / freshly painted churches of Lipsi
family run Flisvos restaurant, Patmos, especially chick peas in the oven
our ferry from Ikaria to Patmos being cancelled; adjusting our plans taking another ferry the night before
our drive over the mountain and along the north-east coast of Ikaria
breakfasts on our balconies at Pyrgos Traditional Villas; Rizos Studios and Asterias Apartments
sending short stories of our travels to our grandchildren, even if they are too young to understand
the many interesting travelers we met along the way

A bit about each island we visited (with some repetition of the above memories):

While difficult if we had to rank our favourite islands they would be

Norm Gayle

1 Lipsi Lipsi

2 Rodos Kastellorizo

3 Kastellorizo Rodos

4 Patmos Patmos

5 Leros Leros

6 Ikaria Ikaria

Ikaria

Patmos

Lipsi

Leros

Rodos

Kastellorizo

very nice traditional stone Pyrgos cottage, complete with creaky floors
great views from our balcony to the Aegean sea
our home-made breakfasts with fresh orange juice
the drive across the mountains to the north side and on to Evdilos with its pretty harbour
dinner at Taverna Arodou being served by Rosa

Gerta and Visilis
our beautiful, large upgraded unit with huge terrace overlooking the sea with views of ferries and small cruise ships
a number of easily accessible beaches
while not going all the way up our walk through Chora
the views, food (especially the chick peas) and friendly family at Flisvos (so much so we returned a second time)

the very cute (and inexpensively priced) Rizos Studios
everything George
easy access to the entire island and its beaches
a number of wonderful restaurants in the port; and the best bakery
the many many beautifully maintained churches

sitting on our Asteria Apartments' balcony mesmerized by the view of the town below and the sea beyond, especially at night with the sparkling lights
Hercules and White Angel, our house cats
sitting at a cafe with drinks, a spinach pie and cookies waiting for our ferry
the history of World War Two battles on the island
the huge refugee centre
nice meals (loved the Greek Island salad) sitting right on the waterfront at Restaurant Pirofani

the ever accommodating George at Zacosta! There is no need to say more
the magic of Old Rhodes Town - narrow alleyways; cobblestones; oozing history
Auberge Kalopetri - Ulrike, the breakfasts, the views, our lovely terrace
Yiorgos and dinner at Kalamaris Taverna, and the unsuccessful search the previous day
the roosters, mules and goats
the beautiful drive along the coast approaching Kritinia and then inland

the beyond pretty buildings surrounding the harbour, reminiscent of Symi
Elini and the entire family at Hotel Kastellorizo
enjoying breakfast on our waterfront terrace
getting to know the doctors at the medical clinic
those darn flagstones making it a challenge for Gayle to push / pull me in the wheel chair
being able to see Turkiye but having that part of the trip cancelled due to Norm's fall / knee

Expenses (based on average exchange rate 1 euro = $1.6146 Cdn):

Here are the costs of what turned out to be a our 27 day trip.

$ 576 airfare internal to Greece (Athens to Ikaria $288; Rodos to Athens $288

$ 5,887 lodging ($218* Cdn $ per night)

$ 1,879 food ($70* Cdn $ per day for dinner etc. including wine; breakfasts are included in lodging)

$ 492 ferries

$ 1,396 vehicle ($1,152 or $55 per day for the vehicles; fuel of $185; taxi $59)

$ 0 entrances

$ 264 miscellaneous - primarily tips

$10,494 for 27 days

$ 2,596 airfare (from / to Canada - Aeroplan), including seat selection

$13,090

$ 18 souvenirs

$13,108

* slightly different than below due to prepayment at lower exchange rates

The total cost excluding airfare from Canada and souvenirs (i.e. lodging, food, vehicle and tips) was $10,494 or $389 per day.

Following are the average costs of this and our six previous trips to Greece.

$242 in 2015 (24 days)
$341 in 2017 (26 days)
$307 in 2018 (18 days)
$285 in 2019 (30 days)
$354 in 2022 (34 days)
$419 in 2023 (34 days)
$355 in 2024 (32 days)
$389 in 2025 (27 days; cut short from a planned 39 days)

In euros the average costs of lodging, food and transportation (internal flights, car rental, fuel, tolls and ferries) expenses per day has been as follows.

Lodging Food* Transportation**

Greece 2015 78 44 42

Greece 2017 97 46

Greece 2018 106 45

Greece 2019 95 42 47

Greece 2022 144 48 59

Greece 2023 170 49 64

Greece 2024 133 46 54

Greece 2025 143 43 44

* includes all food purchases (dinners, groceries, bakeries etc.) excluding breakfast that are in lodging

** includes car rental and ferries

The total cost excluding airfare and souvenirs (i.e. lodging, food, entrances, vehicle and miscellaneous) was $10,494 or $389 per day, just slightly more than 2024.

Following are the average costs of this and our three previous trips to Greece.

Exchange Total Lodging Food Transportation

2022 $1.40 $ 354 144 euros / $ 202 48 euros / $67 59 euros / $83

2023 $1.45 $ 419 170 euros / $ 246 49 euros / $71 64 euros / $93

2024 $1.50 $ 355 133 euros / $ 200 46 euros / $69 54 euros / $81

2025 $1.61 $ 389 143 euros / $ 231 43 euros / $69 44 euros / $71

Lodgings were marginally more expensive than in 2024, both in euros and converted to Cdn $ due to the higher exchange rate. Food costs - essentially dinner with wine - were a tad (but nothing material) less than our three previous trips, especially when one factors in inflation, but we would not have wanted to eat (or drink) any more. It was nice to see our transportation costs drop a bit.

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Our lodgings ranged from a low of 60 euros (Rizos Studios) to a high of 192 euros (9 Muses).

Here are the lodgings where we stayed, the amount we paid (in euros) and links to their websites.

Once again we were very pleased with our choices of lodgings. More than usual did not include breakfast but we look after ourselves with fresh orange juice (we bring a squeezer with us), yoghurt with fruit, bread or spinach pies, cookies, and coffee. All of our hosts and staff were wonderful - friendly and helpful. At the low end at 60 euros was Rizos Studios, a very cute unit in Lipsi. At the high end was 9 Muses, a beautiful place at which we were upgraded (still not sure why) to a beautiful suite with a large terrace overlooking the Aegean.

https://9mussespatmos.gr/en/home/

138 euros Pyrgos Traditional Villas* Ikaria www.pyrgos-ikaria.com

87 euros Byzance Skala, Patmos www.byzancehotel.com

192 euros** 9 Muses Patmos www.9mussespatmos.gr

60 euros Rizos Studios* Lipsi www.lipsi-rizosstudios.com

120 euros Asterias Apartments* Leros www.asteriasleros.com

135 euros Zacosta Boutique Hotel Old Rhodes Town www.zacosta.com

125 euros Auberge Kalopetri Kritinia www.aubergekalopetri.com

135 euros Zacosta Boutique Hotel Old Rhodes Town www.zacosta.com

138 euros Hotel Kastellorizo Kastellorizo www.kastellorizohotel.gr

171 euros*** Zacosta Boutique Hotel Old Rhodes Town www.zacosta.com

* excluding breakfast ** although we were upgraded to a Suite *** only charged 100 euros due to last minute booking

October 11, 2025 - Rodos to Athens to Toronto to Halifax

We were up early (and George came in early - he is the best) to be delivered to our taxi at the Gate to then be driven to the Rodos airport.

After a bit of searching Gayle found a Sky Service attendant who joined us to escort us through security and to the gate. Being a plane that was on the tarmac, i.e. not connected directly to the terminal, Gayle and I were transported to a special vehicle from where we were driven to the back (right side) of the plane, elevated to the door where we were conveniently seated in the back row. Same process in reverse when we arrived in Athens.

We debated whether I would fly home Economy or Business class, recognizing the very significant cost of one-way tickets. Gayle and Paul, given the prospect of 10+ hours squished in Economy strongly encourage me to fly Business Class. So we bit the bullet and I booked Business Class with a lie-flat seat. Hopefully insurance will cover some / all of the cost - we'll see. Gayle did 'sneak' through the curtains a couple of times to visit.

We will say 'Disability Service' was generally excellent, the only exception being upon arrival in Toronto. Admittedly there were a number of people being looked after but the triage process was very weak, not assessing who had (tight) connections versus those who had reached their final destination. Our boarding pass was scanned three times - just general confusion. But in the end we were escorted from International to Domestic where we made our connecting flight to Halifax. We arrived on time to be met by Katrina to drive us home, bringing an end to a long and at times stressful day.

Looking pretty sad in the Rodos airport preparing for a day of travel home.

My friendly Sky Service attendants, on the right in Athens and below in Rodos. Both very nice gentleman.

Being escorted in a service vehicle to our SKY Express plane on the tarmac in Rodos for our flight to Athens.

Being lifted to the rear right door to enter the plane.

October 10, 2025 - Kastellorizo to Rodos (Zacosta Hotel)

Another challenging day ahead. After a filling breakfast under cloudless blue skies we packed and dropped in to reception to pay, having a nice chat with Elina and Simoni. This family owned and run hotel was perfect for us.

We had originally booked the Megisti Hotel a bit further along the quay, which would have made for much more pushing for Gayle. However in the summer we received a message that they were unexpectedly closed meaning we had to find another hotel. Gayle took a walk to the Megisti and while the swimming might have been a bit better on the edge of town the hotel itself was quite non-descript, without the history of Hotel Kastellorizo. In retrospect we are happy we ended up where we did.

Our room(s) were wonderful, both the one of the first floor - large (although the balcony was small) with great views and our room on the ground floor with its harbourside terrace. The lobby was filled with history including traditional costumes and tapestries. But what was really impressive was how we were treated. From the moment we walked in and Voula (mother) handed me a cold pack, to offering us the ground floor room, to arranging for and delivering the wheelchair, to spending time chatting with us about the hotel and the family, it was all so personal.

But then we were off. We arranged for our luggage to be delivered (by sea taxi) to the ferry dock on the other side of the harbour. Meanwhile Gayle pushed / pulled me around, again with generous help from a fellow who left his coffee to not only push me over the last stretch of flagstone but then continued the rest of the way to the medical clinic. We were so appreciative.

There we picked up the doctor's letter, Gayle went to the pharmacy to get me some pain meds, after which we waited for the Blue Star ferry. I swapped the medical clinic's wheel chair for a Blue Star one and with prior arrangement I was boarded by a steward and delivered to a very comfortable area. Meanwhile Gayle waited with our luggage, fingers crossed the steward would return for her. Quite worried as time passed, and knowing how quickly ferries can depart she was very relieved when finally the steward returned to help with her luggage - the last one to board. The four plus hour trip was very calm and enjoyable, quite the different experience from the small Dodekanisos catamaran bouncing around in rough weather.

As arranged John was at the port to meet us, delivering us to Zacosta. As much as we wanted to we were unable to go out to dinner (the stairs as we were in a room on the first floor but more relevant the small cobblestone alleyways) so we asked John to order us a couple of pizzas - which were surpisingly good. Not a memorable last Greek meal but we were happy to have made it back to Rodos and have some food.

Early to bed as we had to take an early taxi in the morning to the airport.

Boutique Hotel kastellorizo.

A large breakfast on our terrace - one orders as much, or as little as one wants from an extensive selection.

Hotel Kastellorizo. Alleyway to reception. Courtyard across from reception.

Daughters Elina and Simoni manage Hotel Kastellorizo.

Dad Yannis. Mom Voula. Housekeeping.

Beautiful paintings and tradiional tapestries and costumes cover the walls.

Directly in front of a cafe a lady parks herself and fishes off the quay.

A video of the harbour and town.

My medical team - the doctor who actually examined me was the fellow on the right.

Christmas in October. The doctors. Like Hector in Italy old guys hugging Gayle.

As I'm wheeled on to the ferry the thought did cross our minds as to whether Gayle would be left behind.

Back to Zacosta, in the Cavalieri Suite.

Of course we were not going out to eat so had John order us a couple of pizzas - actually quite good.

October 09, 2025 - Kastellorizo (Hotel Kastellorizo)

The island of Kastellorizo, or officially Megisti, is roughly two kilometres off the south coast of Turkiye and 125 km east of Rodos. Kastellorizo became more popular after the 1991 movie Mediterraneo, set on the island during the second World War.

Megisti, the official name of the island means 'biggest' or 'greatest' but at only 12 sq kms it is actually the smallest of the Dodecanese islands. Rather the name reflects the fact it is the largest of a small archipelago. While 'Megest' was used in antiquity the name Kastellorizo has been commonly used since the 12th century.

The houses of the town are slender and characterised by wooden balconies and windows of the Anatolian type. Behind the waterfront, many houses are still in a ruinous state. At the entrance to the harbour, on the east side, stand the single-story remnants of the former Italian government house erected in 1926. Nearby is the island's former Ottoman mosque that dates from the second half of the 18th century. It was restored and re-opened as a museum in 2007, but with my limited mobility we did not visit. From here starts the town's quay, which runs along all three sides of the harbour. The central square — Plateia Ethelondon Kastellórizou ('Kastellorizo Volunteers' Square') — lies at the midpoint near the vessel dock. On the opposite side of the harbour one has a good view from this vantage of Pera Meria, the western quay, and the monasteries of Profitis Ilías and Aghia Triadha, the former now an army base.

In terms of recent history the island was assigned to Italy from the French in March 1921. Subsequently the Treaty of Lausanne confirmed the Italian claim on Kastellorizo, and the island – under the Italian name 'Castelrosso'.

Because of the Italian occupation, the island was not affected directly by the population exchange between Greece and Turkey of 1923, but the forced emigration of the large Greek population living on the nearby Anatolian coast hit heavily the economy of the island.

The 1932 Convention between Italy and Turkey assigned all the islets of the small archipelago around Kastellorizo except Ro and Strongyli to Turkey. During the 1930s it was a stopover for French and British seaplanes. During the Second World War, on 25 February 1941, British Commandos occupied the island, but Italian forces from Rhodes recaptured it some days later. When Italy capitulated to the Allies (8 September 1943) the island was occupied again by Allied forces, remaining under their occupation for the rest of the war. In July 1944, a fuel dump caught fire, which spread to an adjacent ammunition dump, thereby destroying half of the homes on the island.

Kastellorizo was assigned to Greece in 1947, coming under Greek administration. The island formally joined the Greek State on 7 March 1948 together with the other Dodecanese islands.

The population increased from 4,870 in the 1880s to its peak in 1908 with an estimated 9,000 residents. At that time, Kastellorizo was still the only safe harbor along the route between Makri (today's Fethiye) and Beirut. Its sailing ships traded products from Anatolia (coal, timber, pine bark) for Egyptian goods (rice, sugar, coffee, tissues and yarns). As well there was an important fishing industry — mainly sea sponges.

After 1908 the decay of the island's economy set in, accelerated by the decline of the Ottoman Empire. In the late 1920s the island's population dropped to 3,000, while about 8,000 inhabitants lived abroad, predominantly in Australia, Egypt, Greece and the U.S. At that time the town had 730 inhabited houses, while 675 were already empty, many ruined.

The population continued to drop to 584 according to the 1951 census, reaching a low point of 222 in the 1981 census, before slowly rising again to 594 at the 2021 census. The municipality also includes the islands of Ro and Strongyli, both without permanent inhabitants.

Many of its emigrants live in Australia (especially Perth and Sydney but also Darwin, Melbourne, Brisbane and Adelaide), where they are known as "Kazzies". It is estimaed over 80,000 Australians claim some familial lines or are descended from the island with early migration waves occuring after the Greco-Turkish War (1919-1922), during the Italian occupation of the island, and following the devastation of World War II.

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Today was much like yesterday - breakfast on our terrace, a return visit to the medical centre for anohter pain/ muscle relaxant shot; cancelling hotel and car rental reservations, booking the ferry,booking our hotel (Zacosta) in Rodos, and purchasing airline tickets. A surprisingly busy day interrupted by the deafening sound of three military jets buzzing very low over the island.

For dinner we chose a nice little taverna - Stenaki - tucked into an alley. During the meal we ended up chatting with an Italian couple from Florence while sipping our wine. We once again started with pita bread, which has been very common here in the Dodecanese. Gayle then had a Greek Salad while I a nice plate of lamb chops. As we just sat enjoying our last night here on Kastellorizo, Michalis, the owner, brought us our 'gift' - another 1/4 litre of wine. Perfect!

A push back over the toughest of the cobblestones brought an end to our day.

Breakfast enjoyed on our water-side terracce. After the rain of the past couple of days it was nice to see nothing but sunshine, even if it generated shadow lines on my face in the photo :-)

Hotel Kastellorizo. Sun glistening off the harbour.

A colourful fishing boat with the west quay on the far side.

And colourfully painted doors.

Balconies of Kastellorizo.

Colourful buildings of Kastellorizo, including the mosque.

Some of the cobblestones Gayle had to drag me over, some with Greek Eyes embedded.

The Kastellorizo version of baklava.

Iced cafe freddo, baklava and fresh orange juice.

A stop at Remezzo cafe on the way back to Hotel Kastellorizo.

Enjoying a drink and sweet. The view of the harbour from the cafe.

The town of Kas, Turkiye, only a 20 minute ferry from Kastellorizo.

The harbour as seen from the cafe where we enjoyed a sweet and drinks.

Swimmng in the bay.

To Stenaki Grill House for dinner tonight.

Michalis.

Recording what we ordered.

Starting with pita bread. And then a Greek Salad.

Greek Salad. Lamb chops.

Enjoying our last Greek dinner in a taverna tucked in an alley.

Saint Merkourios Holy Orthodox Church lit up at night.

October 08, 2025 - Kastellorizo (Hotel Kastellorizo)

A very sad and difficult day.

The evening was not good - my knee being excruciating. Thank goodness I had my walking stick with me. It was particularly difficult to get up off a chair or out of bed. Getting down the stairs to breakfast was challenging, although I did make it.

There was a room available on the ground floor that was offered to us. With the stairs it was a no-brainer to accept the offer. Although the room was smaller it had a nice (larger) outdoor area adjacent to the water. Sure people did walk by but it never seemed busy, or intrusive. An excellent decision to move.

Having seen how I was struggling Elina arranged to borrow a wheel chair from the medical clinic, taking the sea taxi over to retrieve the chair and bringing it to us (again by sea taxi) at the hotel. From that point on, other than sitting in a restaurant to eat I was in the wheel-chair with Gayle pushing / pulling me around the harbour, once mid-day to get to the medical clinic and then later to go to dinner. We concluded the sea taxi option was not really an option as I would not be able to get in / out of the small boat.

It was noonish before we got out and managed to get to the medical clinic, Gayle pushing and pulling me in the wheel chair to the other side of the harbour. There we saw Dr,. Xanthos Tsaloikos, and another elderly doctor who didn't actually do to much other than supervise. The doctor theorized I had a torn meniscus, torn ligament or bad bruising. I was instructed

"... to avoid mobilization and weight-bearing on the right knee until imaging is performed (MRI). The patient was advised not to drive or travel independently unitl the extent of the injury is clarified. A referral was provided for MRI imaging and orthopaedic evaluation at a tertiary care hospital to assess potential ligament or tendon injuries."

I received an intramuscular injection for pain relief and muscle relaxation and sent us on our way, with Gayle pushing me back around the harbour to our hotel where we spent the afternoon conisdering our options.

Being unable to drive Turkiye was a no-go. We were going to rent a car for 8 days working our way up the coast from Kas to Marmaris. With no ability to do an MRI on the island we had to at the very least make our way back to Rodos.

Also on the south side of the harbour, past the medical clinic is the castle of Kastellorizo, being built, destroyed and rebuilt several times in its long history. The current structure is a remnant of the reconstruction that took place in 1451. In 1306 (or 1309 - it is unclear) the castle was captured by the Knights of the Order of Saint John under Grand Master Foulques de Villaret who had set out from Cyprus to capture Rodos, then part of the Byzantine territory. While he succeeded in capturing Kastellorizo aloong the way he ultimately failed to do so with Rodos. Kastellorizo was important to the Order as it was the only safe Christian port on the busy sea route to the eastern Mediterranean. However being remote from the rest of the Knight's territory, and therefore exposed to external dangers, the Knights used the island primarily as an outpost and port, as well as being a place of exile and prison.

We spent the afternoon considering and researching our options. It quickly became obvious our only real choice was to return to Halifax as soon as possible. That meant taking the Blue Star ferry on Friday, finding a hotel (fortunately there was one room available at Zacosta so that worked out well) in Rodos and booking flights back home.

Dealing with the pain, the logistical nightmare, and the disappointment of our trip being cut short it was not a fun afternoon.

For dinner Gayle rolled me to Alexandra's, a highly rated restauarant about half way around the harbour. Staff were very helpful getting me seated as getting in and out of the wheel chair was challenging. While there were tables on the water's edge it was a bit cool with a threat of more rain having everyone eat inside. We started with a piece Saganaki. Gayle then had the Grilled eggplant with feta cheese and fresh tomato with Norm ordering the Soutzoukakia - meatballs with red sauce and fresh fried potatoes. While the meatballs were tasty the potatoes were swimming in the sauce, getting mushy in the process. A soggy mess. Not the best way to serve them.

Afterwards it was straight back to Hotel Kastellorizo.

The Kastellorizo Harbour that we got to know very well as Gayle had to wheel me from Hotel Kastellorizo (on the left) to the Megisti Medical Clinic (on the right) each day, navigating her way through restaruant and cafe tables and at times over cobblestones. Often people would see her struggle as I am not the smallest person to push / pull and offer to help, help we gladly accepted. People we so kind including one fellow who left his coffee and took us the rest of the way (perhaps 300 metres) to the clinic.

Elina arranged for a wheel chair for me, retrieving it from the medical clinic to be delivered to Hotel Kastellorizo by sea taxi.

Thanks to Gayle's Herculean efforts, especially over the three stretches of cobblestones we made it to the medical clinic for my knee to be examined by the doctor.

The rectangular harbour is engulfed with pastel coloured buildings that all fit together like a jig saw puzzle.

Greek flag painted on the rocks of the cliffside. One of the ferries that serve Kastellorizo.

Kastellorizo's beautiful harbourfront.

400 steps (so we were told) to the Monastery. Kastellorizo's castle.

Saint George at Pigadi Orthodox church.

Alexandra's outdoor tables on the waterside. Saganaki.

Grilled eggplant with feta. Soutzoukakia (meatballs) with mushy fries.

October 07, 2025 - Old Rhodes Town to (Hotel) Kastellorizo

This morning we were off early (before 8:00 am) to catch the 8:30 ferry from Old Rhodes Town port to the small island of Kastellorizo, very near to Turkiye, where we will be staying the next three nights.

After an abbreviated breakfast George put our luggage in the Zacosta golf cart and took us through town, along its beautiful stone streets and past medieval buildings, to the port and our Dodekanisos Seaways ferry for a 2 hour 20 minute trip to Kastellorizo.

Unfortunately the weather forecast was not great leaving us expecting a rough ride. It turned out to be much worse than we anticipated on three accounts

First, it started with the lady directly behind me complaining that my seat was reclined too much. It is not as if I had any control over how much it reclined. One would have expected her to simply move to another seat (seating is general not specific) if it bothered her so much. But no she complained to one of the ship's stewards who checked out my seat and found nothing wrong. But the ferry lurched as I was sitting back down with me falling into Gayle's sore wrist. In the end she moved anyway, something that she should have done in the first place.

Second, it was evident very quickly it was going to be a rough crossing. To the credit of the ferry company a few stewards were prepared with sick bags and paper towels. Good thing that as we guessed about a quarter of the passengers were ill, including the lady who had been behind me. While Gayle rarely has any problems with rough seas, and again did not today, my history is not as good. I did come close a few times but managed to not get ill, thank goodness. Still not fun listening to the suffering of others.

And third, and by far the worst, as we were disembarking the ferry on an unusually steep very wet ramp, dragging two bags I slipped and fell, wrenching my right knee. After picking myself up, actually with help from others disembarking, I gingerly made it to the quay. The knee felt bad but I could walk so we headed around the habour, 600 metres, to our hotel on the other side. As we neared the skies opened with a downpour, resulting in us taking shelter under the tarp of a restaurant. We were told it hadn't rained since May. Lucky us ... not. When it let up (perhaps 15 minutes later) we continued on to Hotel Kastellorizo where we were welcomed by Elina who showed us to our beautiful large first floor room with a small balcony overlooking the harbour. Upon telling Elina and her mom of my fall they immediately provided me with some ice to attempt to manage the expected swelling.

Unfortunately as the afternoon wore on my knee was started to seize, making walking, including getting up and down the stairs quite difficult. As a result we went to the nearest restauarnt - Little Paris, hardly a Greek name. It was just ok with a TV blaring. We started with small spring roll like cheese pies. Gayle liked them, Norm not so much. Then a plate of fava that was quite nice. Norm finished with the moussaka which unfortunately was somewhat tasteless. All in all just average food.

At least the walk back to the Hotel was short, and flat, as my knee was feeling worse and worse. Fingers crossed tomorrow will be better.

George at our service.

In spite of the early hour most of the breakfast was available.

Kastellorizo is a 2 hr 20 min to 4 hr 40 min ferry (depending on ferry line) east of Rhodes.

Very few people out and about at 8:00 am as we drive through this beautiful medieval town.

A few more walls and towers of Old Rhodes Town as seen on our drive to the port.

The priest on the ferry.

A deckhand prepared with supplies for those that inevitably will be ill.

Our Dodekanisos Seaways ferry leaving port later in the day.

A couple of images upon arriving in Kastellorizo.

Some of the colourful buildings of Kastellorizo.

A waterfront restaurant. Hotel Kastellorizo from across the harbour.

As we were walking around the harbour we just about made it to our hotel when the skies opened and it poured rain.

A couple of videos of the downpour we experienced upon arriving in Kastellorizo.

Our first room - Chorafia - with a kitchenette, large working / dining room and the bedroom. Not shown is the small balcony overlooking the harbour.

Beautiful Kastellorizo Harbour with its pastel painted buildings.

We ate at Little Paris (not exactly the most Greek of names) just down the quay from Hotel Kastellorizo.

Cheese pies. Hummus.

Moussaka.

The church and Castle of Kastellorizo.

Kastellorizo's church lit up at night. Tonight - a full moon.

October 06 2025 - Kritinia to Old Rhodes Town (Zacosta Hotel)

While we may have been a bit apprehensive about being isolated at Auberge Kalopetri it turned out to be a wonderful place to stay. Our unit was large and comfortable with fabulous vistas across the countryside to the sea. Ulrike and the staff were friendly and really cared for their guests. Breakfast was very nice. The only unfortunate thing was our timing as Ulrike does dinner once a week but sadly it did not coincide with the days we were there.

While there is not much to do in the area there are some nice drives and the close-by beach. There were a number of restaurant / taverna choices each with good food.

As we left we decided to take the (very) short detour to check out Kritinia castle, which we had seen from a distance on our drives. Located on a hill a few kms from the village of Kritinia the castle's imposing ruins remain. Erected by the Knights of Saint John with the aim of defending the area from Ottoman incursions the castle offers breathtaking views of the Aegean Sea and many neighbouring islands.

Construction began in 1472 during the rule of the Grand Master Giovani Battista Orsini, with completion some 50 years later. Combining elements of Byzantine and Western European medieval architecture, the castle is a rectangular structure with two towers on the eastern side.

Not much has survived besides the outer fortifications, yet there are the coats of arms of three different Grand Masters still visible on the tower walls. Within lie the ruins of a Catholic chapel with 16th centrury frescoes, as well as remnants of contemporary buildings as the castle was used by the Italians in the early 20th century.

Each summer the castle comes alive with a spectauclar two-day medieval festival of fire tricks and acrobatics, medieval dances and the reenactment of the 'king' and 'queen' conferring knighthood on one of the participants.

Then after a brief stop in the port of Kamiros Skala from where the ferry to Chalki departs we drove the same coastal road back to Old Rhodes Town. After returning the car we were driven to the San Francisco gate where we were met by George and our shuttle service.

We settled in for the afternoon after which we headed out to dinner. A nearby restaurant To Rodi (meaning Pomegranate) was recomended. Although somewhat pricier than alternatives we decided to give it a try, and very thankful we did. The interior of the restaurant was beautiful with its stone walls, fire place and pomegranate trees, with those not paying attention occasionally making contact with the ripening pomegranates.

At 11 euros for a half litre of house wine, somewhat more than the 6 to 8 euros we normally paid, the wine was pricy but actually very good, well worth the additional cost. We started with some pita bread - Rhodian Ladopitta with olive oil paste - delicious. Gayle decided to give the vegetarian Moussaka (in a ceramic pot) another go and very thankful she did. It was very flavourfull, so much better than the one she had a number of days before at nearby Ouzokafenes. Norm had the Kleftiko, a traditional dish of lamb meat with vegetables and smoked cheese prepared in fhilo dough served with baby potatoes and vegetables. Expensive by Greek standards at 27.5 euros ($45 Cdn) it was so worth the price - absolutely delicious. An excellent choice.

During the meal we were entertained by the 79 year old waiter who darted about like a teenager.

We then slowly ambled back to Zacosta under the light of the full moon.

A sunny start to our day here on Rodos.

Quite the backdrop from the breakfast area of Auberge Kalopetri.

One final view to the coast. Cereal and fresh fruit. Pomegranates.

Eliane and Jacques, Ulrike's parents and the 'AK' (Auberge Kalopetri) seen throughout the breakfast area.

Before leaving we did drive up to get a closer look of Kritinia Castle.

In the small port of Kamiros Skala from where one can catch a ferry to the island of Chalki.

A large Greek flag painted on a building in Kamiros Skala.

Left to Rhodos; Right to Kritinia.

Another church on our drive into Old Rhodes Town.

Our shuttle service was waiting for us upon arrival at the San Francisco gate.

It was tough to take photos while bouncing over the cobble-stones on the Zacosta golf cart but here are a few, starting with the San Francisco gate.

Just about everything in Old Rhodes Town is constructed of stone.

Welcome to Zacosta Villa Hotel.

George. John.

... and us.

We chose to eat at To Rodi (or Pomegranate) tonight.

The stone fireplace.

Our vibrant 79 year old server.

The interior of the restaurant with its stone walls. Pomegranates growing on the tree in the dining area.

All smiles about to enjoy our meal.

Rhodian Ladopitta with olive oil paste.

Vegetarian moussaka. (Lamb) Kleftiko.

A full moon tonight.

October 05, 2025 - Kritinia (Auberge Kalopetri)

Our last full day at Auberge Kalopetri was much like the others - quiet and relaxing.

After a nice sunrise the clouds rolled in again for another morning shower that fortunately ended before breakfast, allowing us to eat outside. The highlight of today's breakfast was a delicious honey nut cake.

After breakfast we then worked on our travel blogs and just sat outside enjoying the views from the Auberge to the countryside and sea for the rest of the morning and into the afternoon.

We then decided to go for a swim - well at least Gayle went for a swim while Norm relaxed on the free sunbeds - another Greek gift courtesy of adjacent Johnny's Beach Restauarant - at nearby pebble Kopria beach. The beach was actually quite busy, perhaps because it was a Sunday afternoon and/or perhaps because the sea was so warm.

For dinner we decided to drive about a half hour down the coast to Kalavarda and the Sea House restaurant. Another very large restaurant that felt somewhat lonely with all the empty tables. Unfortunately the restaurant was further from the sea than would have been ideal but for the most part the food was good. A Greek salad to start, always a winner, and a plate of fries, that were clearly not hand cut. We then shared a cheese pie drizzled with honey and sesame seeds which was excellent and Norm ordered the grilled octopus - two nice tentacles.

One very nice aspect of the restauarant was that we were able to see a very colourful sunset.

On the way back upon noticing a tribe of goats on the side of the road we pulled over. A few of the goats were really quite brazen, trying to stick their face in the car. One even tried to get into my pocket to see if I had anything s/he could eat.

Sunrise over the mountains. This way to Auberge Kalopetri.

Ulrike.

Each room is named after a Dodecanese island. Ours was Kassos.

Pomegranaates on a tree just outside the reception / breakfast area.

A breakfast plate. Meusli with fresh fruit.

Not only a nice beach but free sunbeds to boot!

The white limestone cliffs surrounding Kopria beach.

Kopria beach. Across the sea to Symi.

Enjoying the sun on the 'free' sunbed.

On our way to the restauant we passed a number of very cute donkeys.

The dark line reminded us of Sardinian donkeys.

We drove down the coast to Kalavarda for dinner.

At first we wondering where the tomatoes were in this Greek salad, but no worries they were just hidden under everything else.

A plate of fries, unusually not hand cut. A cheese pie with honey and sesame seeds.

Two nice grilled octopus tentacles. The after meal 'gift' of cake.

We did not see many sunsets during this trip but tonight we were treated to a colourful one.

On the way back we passed a tribe of goats, including this very brazen one.

October 04, 2025 - Kritinia (Auberge Kalopetri)

A good day today started with a nice chat with our neighbours Tiny and Perry from Utrecht, Netherlands. They have fallen in love with the relaxing vibe of Kalopetri, returning for a week plus each fall.

Although there were clouds from time to time, with a few rain showers, they would quickly clear for what promises to be a better day weather wise.

Again after breakfast we spent the rest of the morning and into the early afternoon in our unit before heading out to Kritinia and beyond. Today, with directions, we easily found the taverna in Kritinia. Being a Saturday the place was hopping with many large Greek families enjoying their weekly gathering. Gayle spoke with the owner who suggested we come back in an hour or two. Only being mid afternoon not an issue so we continued our drive.

There is a circular route we decided to take that first had us go through the village of Embonas, the wine 'capital' of Rhodes. Embonas is located halfway up the Attavyros, a gray rocky mountain on the top of which is a temple of Zeus. The village is the centre of the wine industry on Rhodes, attracting many tourist daytrips (we saw a number of buses). As a result there were a number of tourist shops in the town, some tacky and others quite authentic. We looked at some runners but in the end only bought a tea towel.

We then continued to drive around Attavyros past a few tribes of goats, many olive groves, the Monastery of Artamitis, also known as the Monastery of Saint John Artamitis. The Monastery is a Greek Orthodox men's monastery built in the 9th century on the site of an ancient temple to the goddess Artemis. It is located near the village of Laermon, known for its library, sacred relics, and historical importance during the Turkish occupation. The original building was damaged and rebuilt in 1859.

We then continued through the rustic village of Ag. Isidoros, the starting point for a circular, waymarked hiking trail up Mount Attavyros, offering panoramic views across the island (no we did not take the walk). Olive and citrus groves surround the village, along with vineyards growing the Athiri grapes used in Retsina wine production. A few tavernas offer dolmades, souvlaki, and the local, grape-infused sumas liqueur.

Continuing our clockwise route we connected with the coastal road that took us through pine forests with great vistas to the sea, and eventually back to Kritinia where we returned to Kalamaris Taverna. We had read that this was not your traditional taverna - there is no menu but rather one is served whatever was made that day by an owner with lots of character. No choice. Right on all accounts. It was still busy when we arrived but Yiorgos immediately sat us down and brought over a plate of mezes. And then another plate, and then more and yet more. We had green beans, Tzatziki, cabbage rolls, tomato, tomato balls, eggplant rolls, a large Greek salad, fries and goat. Adonis (the cook) just kept dishing out the food. Gayle ordered red wine and me retsina. Gayle is not a big fan of retsina but it says something about how bad the red (or brown, or orange) wine was that she drank retsina with her meal. As we lingered after eating Yiorgos gave us a glass of Souma, a strong Greek spirit, with different versions made from grapes (or in Chios figs). Similar to raki or tsipouro souma is the Greek version of Italian grappa, certainly packing a punch. Then some peanuts and finally a plate of grapes.

Our meals were 17.00 euros each, with the informal experience being well worth it. We're very glad we persevered and returned to the Taverna.

Another morning; another tasty breakfast; and another nice sunrise.

Tiny and Perry.

On our terrace at Auberge Kalopetri.

Today's plan was to first find Kalamaris Taverna in Kritinia, which we did without any trouble.

However being a Saturday afternoon with the taverna being very busy the owner suggested we come back a bit later which worked for us as we planned to take a drive to Embonas and around the mountain through Ag. Isidoros and back to the coastal road.

It was a very scenic drive, first adjacent to the mountain, then through forests with tribes of goats, past a monastery and then Ag. Isidoros where we stopped for lunch back in 2010.

Embonas attracts both tourists, like us, and tours (no doubt in part from the many cruises that stop in Rhodes.)

The hillside village of Embonas is the center of wine production on Rhodes, with several wineries open for tastings and tours. Stores offer the local liqueurs Souma and Ouzo, wine, honey, olive-oil soaps and other handmade rugs and traditional items.

A shop in an old home with a traditional Greek bedroom and a folkloric doll.

Painted guards.

Another good goat day.

The Monastery fo Artamitis.

Golden thistles brought to life by the sunshine.

The very impressive church in Ag. Isodoros, a village of only 277 (2021 census)

A fellow just passing time in a taverna during the afternoon.

Narrow (pedestrian) alleyways.

Gourds and honey - seen everywhere.

On the scenic drive back to and along the coast, overlooking the pine forests and sea.

The second time was a charm, now that we had directions to Kalamaris Taverna.

More gourds.

Colourful Greek blue tables and chairs.

Chatting with Yiorgos.

When we arrived the taverna was packed with a number of families; clearing out later on.

Retsina - actually very good.

Red (or is it brown or is it orange?) - actually pretty terrible.

Tzatziki, swimming in oil.

Beans.

A variety of mezes.

Greek salad. Fried tomato ball. Fried potatoes.

Baked eggplant. Stewed goat.

Yiorgos (the owner and host) and Adonis (the cook).

Souma, peanuts and grapes post meal.

October 03, 2025 - Kritinia (Auberge Kalopetri)

While it did rain through the night the storm was not nearly as bad as forecast. It continued to rain for a while in the morning after we got up but stopped around 9:00 am just before we went up for breakfast. In addition to the occasional thunder we were greeted by the crows of the roosters in the wee hours of the morning.

It is a bit of a climb (45 steps) from our room on the lower level to the reception / breakfast area, with its wonderful view over the surrounding countryside and sea beyond.

Breakfast is a nice spread of cereals, fruit and fruit salad, yoghurt, traditional greek items (tomatoes, cucumber, olives and cheese), ham, cheese, and today salmon, a daily cake / sweet, eggs, and of course juice and coffee. It was so nice to linger over breakfast with the other guests in this tranquil setting.

A strange day weather-wise as it rained off and on - it would clear, then cloudy, turn sunny and then there would be a (sun) shower.

In the afternoon we drove to Kritinia (4.5 kms) in search of a restauarant we heard was unique in that there is no menu with everyone being served whatever was cooked that day. In rural locations at times one reads not to rely on GPS. This was one of them. We spent well over an hour searching for the taverna, back and forth around and through Kritinia, without success.

However some times getting lost is not so bad. For example we ended up out in the countryside on a narrow lane that took us past some beautiful shimmering olive trees to a farm where a fellow was working in his fields. There were vines with ripe grapes, melons and lots of peppers. The friendly farmer tried to give us directions but the language barrier was just too much although it was clear this was not where we needed to be.

Back and forth a number of times through Kritinia where we saw a beautiful mural and met another family, and their dogs, who also gave us a puzzled look.

As we learned later from our waiter at Amythita where we eventually returned for dinner we had actually passed the taverna a number of times but it was closed today because of the weather (all the tables are outside). On the way back we noticed Kritinia Castle which we will drive to some time over the next couple of days.

After returning to Auberge Kalopetri we decided to return to Amythita, the same restaurant we ate at last night. The food was good and the views to the shoreline and sea wonderful. We started with grilled bread with oil and garlic (delicious), Zucchini fritters (nice although a little tzatziki would have been welcome. We asked for a half serving of tzatziki but surprisingly, and disappointingly, they wouldn't do a half portion). Norm had one of his favourites - a plate (1/2 kilo) of lamb chops.

Back to Auberge Kalopetri to bring another day to an end. For the most part very relaxing and chill other than the frustration of being unable to find the taverna. Perhaps tomorrow.

Just a small sampling of the breakfast choices - a cake / sweet every day; tomatoes, cucumber, olives and cheese; cheese, ham and today salmon.

If roosters crowing at 4:00 am and then again in the afternoon is not your thing then perhaps Auberge Kalopetri is not the place for you. However for us it is perfection as we love the sounds of the bird, animals ... and roosters.

The land around Kalopetri - orange, lemon and olive trees, along with vineyards.

Left - a farmer we came across working in his fields.

Below - fields that included peppers, melons, grapes +++.

This fellow knew less English then we know Greek - but he certainly knew how to smile for the camera.

Grapes. And gourds.

Silvery green olive trees.

A very well done mural on a wall in Kritinia - bringing back a memory of the many murals in Sardinia.

Kritinia Castle.

The view of the Aegean Sea from our restaurant table. Our placemat, provided 'with love'.

So many choices. What to eat tonight? Let's start with some grilled pita bread with oil and garlic.

And then Zuchini Fritters. And for Norm a 1/2 kg of lamb chops.

October 02, 2025 - Old Rhodes to Kritinia (Auberge Kalopetri)

After our short one night stay at Zacosta Villa Hotel in Old Rhodes town today we headed down the north-west coast to Kritania and Auberge Kalopetri.

But not before being treated to a nice breakfast, including spinach pies and waffles with local honey, and all the other goodies of a Greek breakfast.

While finishing up we met an Australia couple who had just arrived. They have been to Greece as many, if not more times than us. The trip for us to reach Greece is lengthy (10 hours from Toronto to Athens) but compared to the Aussies nothing as it is twice that from Sydney. Many Greeks immigrated to Australia leaving family histories and connections. We met many Australians during our trip. Richard and Diane are as passionate about travelling throughout Greece as are we. They have been to a similar number of islands along with the mainland. We had a short but great chat. Unfortunately they are leaving the morning we return to Zacosta, but nice to have crossed paths, if even briefly.

Not picking our vehicle up until 1:30 pm we went out for a short walk through the alleyways of Old Rhodes town. We were reminded of what a fascinating town this is, with its stone buildings, narrow cobblestone streets, history and interesting shops.

George delivered us to the San Francisco Gate where we met another George from City Car Rental who drove us to their office where we completed paperwork, very very carefully examined the car and then we were off.

The drive along the north-west coast was pretty straightforward and easy, past a number of resorts and beaches, then through some busy suburban villages and the airport.

Once past the airport with the resorts and hotels behind us the drive opened up as we continued south-west towards our destination of Auberge Kalopetri just before Kritania. The drive is only an hour and a half, taking us by a number of greenhouses and along the sea with us arriving just after 3:00 pm. Auberge Kalopetri was very easy to find. Our host Ulrike had to go to Rhodes town for the day leaving the key for us. First impressions are excellent with a nice size unit including a large terrace with fantastic views to the sea.

Auberge Kalopetri is named for the hill on which it was built, a name given by the Italians when they occupied Rodos at the beginning of the 20th century (1912 - 1943). Kalo means ‘good’ and petri means ‘stone’ in Greek language. Parts of the Auberge were built with the stones that were excavated from the rocks on which the Auberge was constructed. Auberge Kalopetri is in the middle of an oasis of peace and nature, surrounded by lemon and orange trees overlooking the Aegean Sea, with the music of the goat bells at the background. The Auberge is located near to the sea (700 meters), ideally for walks and close to the beautiful and authentic village of Kritinia.

After relaxing during the afternoon, listening to the chimes of the goat bells, the crows of the roosters and the bays of the mules, we went to nearby Amythita for dinner. A huge restauarant with tables on the cliffside overlooking the limestone rocks along the shore and the sea. There were only a few guests while we were there. We ate light with Gayle having the Feta in the oven with tomato, pepper, onion and olive oil while Norm the meatballs, with a nice tomato dipping sauce. We shared a plate of 'Fried fresh fries' that turned out to be the best fries of the entire trip.

A short drive back up the hill brought our day to an end. They are calling for severe thunderstorms tonight - not great for tourists but very welcome by the locals who have not experienced rain since the spring.

Villa Zacosta Hotel.

Our morning started with a very nice breakfast including waffles with local honey.

Zacosta Villa Hotel courtyard. Richard and Diane, from Bisbane, Australia.

The cobblestone alleyways of Old Rhodes town - at times quite challenging to walk over.

Sights of Old Rhodes town - a colourful painted building; aromatic Frangipani shrubs and a fellow passing time.

Old Rhodes town is full of historical buildings and sites including the ruins of Roman Public Building of the Agora.

History just ouzes from the stones of the many twisting alleyways of old Rhodes town.

Part of the couryard of Zacosta Villa Hotel.

George and us.

The Zacosta 'limousine'. The golf cart was perfect for being picked up at either the port or San Franciso gate. We don't know how many others have a similar service but it was unbelievably good and appreciated. Dragging one's luggage over the cobblestones (as seen above) as we did back in 2010 was not pleasant. Of course in old Rodos one must be aware of where one can and cannot park.

Arriving in our room, Kasos, at Auberge Kalopetri to the sitting room, the towel hearts in the bedroom and a welcoming bird.

Our terrace with lounge chairs and a nice table and chairs, with a decent roof to protect one from the rare but expected rain..

The view to the sea from our terrace.

Our restauarnt choice - nearby Amythita. With tables on the edge of the sea.

A small boat added to the ambiance of Amythita. The best 'Fried fresh fries' of the entire trip.

Meatballs, with a tasty tomato dip.

Feta in the oven with tomato, pepper, onion and olive oil.

October 01, 2025 - Leros to Rodos (Zacosta Villa Hotel)

Today is another travel day - from Leros to Rodos. But not until after we said our good-byes to Al and Kitty ... and Hercules (White Angel must have been too sad to see us go to show up).

Al and Kitty discovered Leros quite by chance. After missing a ferry from Patmos they decided to take a gamble on the next available boat that evening and see where it would take them. Upon arriving into Lakki harbour late at night they were more than a little intrigued. Over ten years later they discussed living on a Greek island, with Leros being the first place on their list. After many years of living and working in London they decided to pick up roots and make Leros their home.

Before leaving we enjoyed a nice chat and a final good-bye with Hercules.

A relatively long ferry today totalling 3 hours and 50 minutes.

From Leros we headed south, first stopping in Kalymnos. Then it was on to Kos (way too resortish) and next the beautiful port of Symi where we had visited back in 2018.

Finally we sailed within a few kms of the Turkiye border before arriving in Rodos to be met by George.

As promised George, who we met when we stayed at Zacosta Villa Hotel (twice) in 2018, was at the port in the Zacosta golf cart to greet us. George is a gem. Nothing is too much for George. John, the owner of Zacosta, was away in Karpathos, where he is from, but will be on-site when we return in four days time.

After settling in and enjoying a very nice shower we headed out to dinner, ending up at Ouzokafenes, a restaurant we ate at last time we were in Rodos. The walk is a bit of a challenge as the old part of Rodos is virtually all small cobble-stones but going 'siga, siga' (slowly slowly) we were fine.

We enjoyed a decent house wine with our meal that started with a plate of olives, some pita bread, and a traditional sausage (for Norm). Gayle then had Moussaka Vegetarian (it is not often a restauarant has vegetarian moussaka meaning Gayle was quite enthused), served in a ceramic bowl. Unfortunately the dish was disappointing, being somewhat bland, or 'flat'. It definately needed more spices. On the other hand Norm had delicious, tender lamb chops, no doubt due to the excessive salt.

It certainly is nice to be back in ancient Rodos - a very unique and interesting city.

A video of Panteli Bay from our balcony. Of course Hercules was there to send us off.

Kitty, Al and Hercules.

A number of nearby windmills have been renovated and converted to lodgings.

To get from Asterias Apartments to the car required climbing 37 steep steps followed by an incline of perhaps 50 to 100 metres. Not the most fun part of my day but I managed.

A windmill in the sea near Agia Marina with Alinda in the background.

Spinach and cheese pie.

Gayle was so quick to grab the baklava she cut it before we could get a photo.

There is not much better than sitting in a Greek cafe on the waterfront on a sunny day enjoying coffee and some food.

Two videos of beautiful Symi harbour with its colourful pastel painted buildings taken from the deck of our ferry.

George, perhaps the best host ever. Nothing is too much for George who provides constant service with a smile.

To the right our room Raimondo, the smallest of the rooms but stylishly done with a nice wood ceiling.

Named in honor of the Grandmaster Raimondo Zacosta the room has a charming view of the courtyard. Though small the Raimondo is tastefully furnished with attention focused on the handcrafted king size iron "Captains" bed.

Below, the courtyard as seen from above.

A mosque adjacent to Zacosta Villa Hotel, as seen from our room.

A plate of olives. Pita bread. A traditional sausage.

A small after-dinner 'gift' of panna cotta Gayle's moussaka.

Lamb chops for Norm.

September 30, 2025 - Leros (Asterias Apartments)

After breakfast (again home-made on our balcony) on our last full day on Leros we started by driving up past the windmills and castle, located in the north-east of the island just above where we were staying. In a decree of emperor Alexios I Komnenos dated 1087 the Castle of Leros was founded under the name Panteliou Castle. It is built on the foundations of an Ancient Acropolis. A symbol of Leros, the castle offers a wonderful view of much of the island. During the crusades in the 15th century, parts of the Byzantine fortifications were strengthened and the outer enclosure of the castle was built. The two inner enclosures date back to the Middle Byzantine times.

Leros is a relatively small island, only 74 sq kms with a permanent population of 7,992 (2021 census).

Leros is known for its imposing medieval castle of the Knights of Saint John possibly built on a Byzantine fortress.

On the map we have

1. where we stayed in Panteli Bay

2. Agia Marina, the main town and ferry dock

3. Paralia Kokkina near the War Museum

4. Agia Kioura beach - a very nice isolated beach

5. the refugee centre, and

6. the castle and nearby landmark windmills

Even with the day of rain four days felt about right to see most of the island, a good choice.

After the drive up the hill to the castle we returned to sea level and the town of Alinda with many hotels and tavernas along the beach. With Agio Kioura beach, near the very north end of Leros, having been recommended we decided to drive to this isolated area / beach, past the airport and a large boatyard. Upon arriving there were only two others on the beach but soon they left (we hope it was not us) leaving the beach to ourselves. Although small the beach was very sandy with views to uninhabited Stroggili island. We enjoyed a wonderful swim in the calm, warm waters.

On our way back we detoured to see the Church of Agios Isidoros, a picturesque chapel located on a rock connected to the mainland by a narrow, stone causeway. The church is a popular spot for its beautiful views, especially at sunset, and is often used for weddings and christenings. The site is also significant as it is built on the location of an ancient temple.

After returning we headed back to Panteli Bay and Pirofani restaurant where we had enjoyed a nice meal our

first night in Leros. The food was good, especially the Greek Island salad, the service excellent and the ambiance of tables set on the beach very nice. We started with some grilled bread followed by Zucchini

chips with tzatziki. Gayle then again enjoyed the Greek Island salad of cherry tomatoes, capers, samphire and pihtogalo (creamy sour cheese from Chania) - both colourful and tasty. Norm had the shrimp risotto, also an excellent choice, bringing our day to an end.

Our large balcony on our end-unit provided a wonderful view of Panteli Bay.

Another delicious 'home-made' breakfast of yoghurt with peaches, left over pizza, the end of the Lipsi bread with the last of the Ikarian honey and more fresh orange juice.

Afterwards nap time with White Angel.

A couple of decorative boards brightening up the walls of the balcony.

Our host Al.

There is incentive to get up in the morning when one has this view to wake up to.

Sailboats dot Panteli Bay.

Thee are six well preserved windmills on the hill leading to the castle, just above where we were staying, dating back to the 17th to 19th centuries. Originally there were nine windmills at this location but over the years three were destroyed.

With the castle on the hill in the background.

Here are five of the six windmills that serve as a major landmark for Leros.

The road to the castle. A church adjacent to the castle.

The castle as seen from the back side.

Yes it was windy up high near the castle.

Agia Marina as seen from the Castle. And as seen from Alinda.

The beautiful bay leading to Paralia Agia Kioura.

Agia Kioura beach, with two others when we arrived who soon left leaving the beach to ourselves.

Enjoying a swim in the warm waters of the sea, on a nice sunny day.

Agios Isidoros is a picturesque chapel on a rock out in the sea, connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway. Located in the Kokkali area, the chapel is one of the most photographed and romantic spots on the island, known for its stunning sunset views and connection to an ancient temple, the ruins of which can be seen on the seabed and behind the altar.

A blue bench next to the blue sea.

A selection of Traditiobal Leros Pougia. Orange pie.

Traditional pougia - sweet pouches. Our bakery treats.

Buildings and a church in Agia Marina.

On the waterfront of Agia Marina.

A cat just enjoying the day. A custard filled roll - delicious.

We returned to Restuarant Pirofani. Grilled bread with olive oil to start.

Zucchini chips with tzatziki (underneath) Shrimp risotto.

Another Greek Island salad. Our dessert 'gift' of yoghurt and berries.

September 29, 2025 - Leros (Asterias Apartments)

Today was a first in over five months (since April) in that it rained. Intermittent but pretty much all day. Fortunately our balcony has a roof allowing us to still enjoy our home-made breakfast outdoors.

Having bought a supply of oranges we enjoyed our fresh orange juice (thank goodness for the orange juice squeezer we bought a couple of years ago) and peaches to cover our yoghurt, along with the Ikarian honey we still had. Bread from Lipsi, a spinach pie from last night and coffee provided a nice start to this rainy day.

It rained, off and on, throughout the day and as a result we did not go out until dinner. Rather we worked on our travel blogs, enjoyed the views, napped, and spent time with the cats. A very relaxing day.

For dinner we went to nearby Pizzeria Italiana da Michele, owned by Michele, who personally makes the pizzas. Being the only ones there when we arrived I did my 'paparazzi' thing, taking photos of the pizza oven, the preparation of our pizzas and of course Michele. We each ordered the smaller of the two size options, more or less a 'medium'. Gayle had a Vegetarian (11 euros) with tomato, cheese, mushrooms, onion and peppers while Norm had the Diavolo (12 euros) with tomato, cheese, olives, pepperoni and spicy salami. Both were excellent enjoyed in a small, not very fancy family run pizzeria.

It was a short drive back up the hill followed by the decline and 37 steps down to our apartment.

A multi-island breakfast with honey from Ikaria, bread from Lipsi and fresh orange juice, spinach pie, yoghurt and peaches from Leros.

Being a rainy day where we stayed in, it turned out to be a 'cat' day', with White Angel and Hercules often by our sides.

The cloud cover, at times dark and ominous.

Working the dough. Spreading the tomato sauce. Michele - owner and pizza maker.

When they say 'wood fired' they mean wood fired. Our pizzas cooking.

Our pizzas ... a Vegetarian for Gayle ... ... and for Norm a Diavolo.

Leros Castle - during the day from the back. And the front at night.

September 28, 2025 - Leros (Asterias Apartments)

Being our first morning without supplies we could not prepare breakfast, as we had done in Lipsi. The best we could do was a cup of Nescafe. Still very pleasurable to just pass away some of the morning on our balcony gazing out to Panteli Bay.

Mid-day we headed out to a fruit and vegetable market to pick up some supplies and then stopped at La Palma Cafe for something to eat. Coffees and a ham, cheese and tomato baguette (really a panini) - great value for only 3.5 euros and a pared down 'Supreme' omelette to share - tomato, cheese and peppers; no bacon or onion.

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While eating we saw this huge facility across the bay - the Closed Controlled Access Centre (CCAC), a refugee centre. The CCAC has a capacity of 2,152. During January through October 2024 (the most recent data we could find) there were 5,969 arrivals, each staying an average of two to two and half months. Most of the refugees (58%) are from Syria, followed by Egypt (8%), Afghanistan (8%) and Yemen (4%). 10% are 'stateless' and 12% 'other'.

Apparently conditions at the facility are not great. A couple of the most pressing issues are the lack of access to hot and potable water as well as malfunctions in the sewage treatment system. Recently the availability of running water has been particularly problematic, stemming from the island’s acute water scarcity and maintenance issues with the desalination plant that supplies the facility. Many residents highlight the poor quality of the food provided. Additionally, there are reports breakfast was not consistently available. The provision of medical services has also been described as severely inadequate. The facility (on 11/11/2024) did not have a doctor but rather a bare bones medical staff of six nurses, a midwife, a psychologist, and a social worker. Medical assessments by a doctor are often unavailable for newly arrived individuals. Accessing medical assistance for residents is extremely challenging.

Assuming these reports are anywhere close to being accurate, while the refugees do have a roof over their heads, their lives appear to be pretty miserable.

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We continued down the coast to Kokkina Beach, rocky but nicely set in a cove. It was not very busy with perhaps three other couples enjoying the sun and water. On the way we passed the war museum of Leros, located in nearby Merikia.

During the 1912 to 1943 Italian occupation of the Dodecanese, the Italian navy understood this exceptionally protected bay with a narrow entrance between two points of land that tighten like pincers would be the most suitable location for the creation of a port fortified military; which was in fact built there to be a naval base like a real 'Pearl Harbor' of the Mediterranean.

The museum is not in a classic building, but rather in a tunnel in the mountain built by the Italians in 1930 as an ammunition depot. The whole island is crossed by tunnels that were dug by order of Mussolini.

At the entrance there is an airplane, tank, other military off-road and transport vehicles and the damaged remains of other vehicles hit by grenades or bombs, along wiith various types of weapons. There are interesting preserved historical objects including weapons, clothing and personal belongings of the era.

In the rooms of this otherwise called 'War Material Storage' or museum of war, one can see a great collection of weapons, uniforms and various accessories of the Italian, British and German departments, involved in those furious fights of 1943.

The museum includes a monument in memory of the Italian, Greek and English soldiers who fell in the war from September 26, 1943 through November 16, 1943 on the occasion of the Battle of Lero: a fierce battle against the Germans, which was central to the development of the Dodecanese military campaign.

The museum is only open in the morning meaning it was closed when we passed by. Perhaps tomorrow.

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Having eaten early afternoon we did not feel a need for dinner. Rather we bought a couple of spinach pies which we enjoyed along with our bottle of Leros wine (which really was not that good), admiring the buildings lit by the moon across the ravine.

A morning coffee to enjoy this view from our balcony of Panteli Bay.

One of the churches seen from our lodging / Asterias Apartments.

Buildings rising up the hill from Panteli.

Lots of fresh fruit - oranges (of which we bought many for our breakfast fresh orange juice), lemons and pomegranates.

And vegetables, including the best tomatoes and peppers.

A late brunch at La Palma Cafe; a panini and omelette.

The Leros Closed Controlled Access Centre (CCAC), or refugee facility, with a naval boat on the right.

Paralia Kokkina. The bay to Lakki.

Enjoying her swim. To go in or not to go in? ... Norm went in.

Reminiscent of Patmos, sparkling beach stones at Kokkina beach.

Every day we encounter animals on our drives - no goats today but rather a flock of sheep.

Abandoned buildings dating back to WW II.

Our 'adopted' Hercules, who has made himself at home.

Along with White Angel.

Having had lunch 'dinner' was simply a spinach pie and some (not so good) wine.

The moon is getting fuller each night.

The evening view from Asterias Apartments to Panteli Beach, lit by the moon.

September 27, 2025 - Lipsi to Leros (Asterias Apartments)

Today we leave Lipsi. When planning the trip while Gayle was insistent on four days in Lipsi I thought, given the size, three would be plenty. I am glad Gayle prevailed, even admitting we could have stayed longer. The island has a quiet, laid back feel to it, reminiscent of Koufonisia back in 2015. Our lodging was sweet and comfortable, the availability of cars to rent was great, there are a few decent beaches and a number of very good restaurants.

We prepared another breakfast in our room before saying good-bye to Nektaria, returning 'George' and catching the ferry to Leros.

Normally the ferry is a short 20 minute trip yet we took a tad over an hour as we backtracked to Patmos before crossing to Leros.

We arrived in Agia Marina port where our car rental guy was waiting. Some paperwork and we were off on a short 10 minute drive to Panteli Bay where we were met by Al and Hercules, the cat who quickly adopted us.

The apartment is simple but large. The balcony is a 10+ - large with a table and couch and an expansive view of Panteli Bay, the bathroom, especially the shower not.

The only negative about the apartment (and in fairness we knew this when we booked it) is that there are 37 steep steps plus an incline / decline to the parking area - but Norm will manage.

We spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying the sunshine on our balcony and setlling in.

For dinner we went down to Panteli Harbour where we ended up at the restauarnt Al recommended - Pirofani, located right on the waterfront. Neither of us was particularly hungry meaning we ate light. We started with some tasty pita bread before Gayle had a super delicious Greek Island salad mostly of cherry tomatoes, but also caper greens, olives, rusks and pihtogalo, a creamy sour cheese from Chania, Crete. Norm had a fairly non-descript fish soup - mostly broth with a few pieces of fish. For only 10 euros I guess we were not expecting much more, with the soup living up to our expectations.

The jury is still out on Leros but it certainly appears to have potential.

Breakfast - quite the spread. The external common area outside our villa.

Anna's Studio was full of artistic items .

Nektaria - so helpful.

A few more images of Rizos Studios, including our large sofa.

The Dodekanisos Seaways Express that took us from Lipsi to Leros via Patmos.

Hercules - cats have an instinct as to who is and is not cat friendly. Herc immediately took to us and was our 'roommate' for the next four nights, although sleepovers were not allowed. We adored him.

A portion of our large balcony with tables, chairs and a couch.

A couple of nearby windmills that have actually been converted into lodgings.

Panteli Bay as seen from Asterias Apartments. A fisherman as seen from our dinner table.

Pirofani was our restuarant of choice this evening. Set right on the waterfront.

Tasty pita bread with oil and oregano. A very attractive Greek Island salad.

Fish soup - not the best to photograph. Delicious lemon ice cream bars were our dessert gift.

September 26, 2025 - Lipsi (Anna Rizos Studios)

Unfortunately Anna, originally from Nottingham, England but married to a Greek and having lived in Lipsi for 30 years now, was recovering on Rodos from a motorcycle accident, and as such we did not get to meet her. In her place Nektaria did a wonderful job looking after us, including voluntarily washing our dirty beach towels and blanket.

A little bit about Lipsi. Leipsoi is a small group of islets in the north of the Dodecanes. The larger Leipsi-Arkoi archipelago consists of 37 island and islets of which only three are larger than one square kilometer -Agreloussa, Arkoi and Lipsi, the largest at 16 square kms. Only Lipsi, Arkoi and Marathos are inhabited The population of Lipsi (2021 census) was 778. Lipsi is a charming island with a beautiful port. There are a number of beaches and churches, all within easy reach. The port has a surprising number of excellent restaurants and a number of Ouzerias on the waterfront.

We returned to the Bakery for breakfast this morning, again crowded with locals and a number of tourists. It is certainly a gathering place. For drinks we had a capucchino freddo (Gayle) and a fresh orange juice (Norm), two spinach pies, and a large piece of pistachio baklava, the centre of which looked a bit like spinach. The bakery was full of bakery stuff - cookies, bread (we bought a loaf of excellent rustic bread), pies, sweets, and on and on.

In the afternoon, after a short drive north of the port, we returned to Katsadia Beach for a short swim. We then slowly made our way back to town stopping often to enjoy the scenary and views.

We then wanted to have a drink at one of the Ouzerias on the waterfront. While the 1/4 litre of wine was somewhat pricy, perhaps not unexpected given the location, it was nice to just sit and watch people wander by, and the fish guy do his thing.

We then returned for diner to To Pefko, where we ate the first night. Gayle started with Tirokafteri - a traditional spicy cheese dip, followed by Melitzanaki Tilikto - rolled aubergines filled with cheese in tomato sauce. Both were very good. Norm had the Gigantes me Loukaniko - big broad beans in tomato sauce with sausage. Too big an appetizer serving with too many broad beans and not so much sausage - just ok. Then the Garides Linguine - prawns in a cherry tomato linguini. The dish was light on the cherry tomatoes but the six large juicy prawns in the linguine were very good.

When we asked for a container to take home the leftover spicy cheese dip the waiter simply brought us a plastic bag and told us to take the dish (and spoon) and just return them in the morning. For some reason we were not surprised ... small island Greece.

Rizos Studios, on the left from the approaching (narrow) road and on the right from across the ravine.

Cappucchno freddo (for Gayle) and fresh orange juice (for Norm).

The busy bakery / cafe.

A spinach pie. The tray of pistachio baklava.

Our piece of pistachio baklava - an excellent choice.

More sweet pastries.

An apple pie. A tart with a selection of berries.

Other fancy / colourful sweets.

Cookies ... ... and sweets.

Breads - the one we purchased was delicious.

Back in the water at the narrow but beautiful Katsadia beach.

Being the fall there is generally not much floral colour, with this being an exception.

Our 'George'. Actually 'George' was everywhere.

The port as seen from the south side.

As an extension of yesterday - more churches of Lipsi.

Drying octopuses.

We wanted to experience spending some time on the Lipsi waterfront. We stopped at Ouzeri Asprakis where we had some wine while simply watchng the boats in the harbour and people wandering by. Yes the wine was expensive but the experience worth the little extra cost.

The fellow cleaning and cooking the fish at Ouzeri Asprakis.

Fishing boats in Lipsi harbour.

Opportunities to cruise to nearby islands. The harbour with the cathedral behind.

Traditional spicy cheese dip. Big broad beans in tomato sauce with sausage.

Rolled aubergine filled with cheese in tomato sauce. Prawns in linguine with cherry tomatoes.

The lower seating area of To Pefko. Our leftover spicy dip. The moon.

September 25, 2025 - Lipsi (Anna Rizos Studios)

Again we had a 'homemade' breakfast in our studio before going out for a drive around the south-eastern half of the island on what was another beautiful sunny day.

Apparently there are 37 churches in Lipsi (although other sources have similar but differnet numbers), far more than would be expected for its small size. Like other Greek islands, the practice of building

private chapels became common, often for spiritual reasons like seeking blessings for safe travels or as a sign of wealth and piety.

Many of these small chapels are still maintained by local families today, serving as spiritual centers for the community and a testament to its deep faith. We won't say we saw all 37 but if felt as we did as around just about every corner we came upon yet another beautifully maintained church - some very small, some quite significant in size.

We eventually laid our beach blanket at Kasadia beach - not that wide but with a nice stone wall that served as a nice bench. While there a young couple who we had seen a number of times before in Patmos, on the ferry to Lipsi, and at Manoli's Tastes passed by. Gayle struck up a conversation with Johnny and Neve, from London, although Johnny is Greek. A very nice young couple having just graduated and trying to figure out the rest of their lives. Nice of them to stop and chat.

We randomly drove the countryside, passing more churches, more goats, a strange bird cage with a significant number of exotic birds, old olive trees, and vineyards, all within range of the beautiful blue sea dotted with sailboats, and one paddle boarder and his dog.

We chose to eat at Vasilikos tonight, another restaurant on the harbour front. Gayle started with Bougourdi with Kavourmas - a spicy baked feta with tomato dip followed by Eggplant and chickpeas with tomatoes in the oven. Norm went with the lamb in the oven special - also very nice.

The once again very short drive returned us to Rizos studios where we worked on our travel blogs before retiring for the night.

Breakfast - freshly squeezed orange juice, yoghurt with Ikarian honey, spinach pie and rolls (from last night's dinner).

Lipsi has churches, lots and lots aof beautiful, generally white and blue painted churches.

One of the few other than blue churches. A priest on the roadside.

And yet another.

And others.

Papandria Beach. Johnny and Neve.

A guy and his dog on a paddle-board. Sailboats in a bay.

We stopped for a swim at Katsadia beach.

Enjoying a rest on the wall by the beach.

Gayle enjoying her daily swim.

An old olive tree with what looks like a face - what face do you see?

Out in the middle of nowhere was this cage with perhaps up to 100 colourful exotic birds.

Our daily dose of goats.

We really haven't seen any colourful sunsets this trip ... until tonight.

This evening's restaurant choice was Vasilikos.

Enjoying a glass of wine while waiting for dinner.

Bougourdi with Kavourmas - spicy baked feta with tomato.

Eggplant with chickpeas in tomatoes in the oven.

The eggplant and chickpeas. And a plate of 'shallow fried' potatoes.

Lamb in the oven with lemon. Some yoghurt with spoon fruit as a 'gift'.

September 24, 2025 - Lipsi (Anna Rizos Studios)

Our first full day on Lipsi was like most first full days on a new island ... pretty relaxed.

Breakfast is not included at Rizos Studios although there is a fridge, hot plates, plates, bowls, cutlery etc. to do one's own. While we will tomorrow and another day we had yet to pick up groceries so went down to the bakery in the port where we had coffees, a spinach pie each and a cinnamon bun, plus picked up a piece of baklava to take back for an afternoon snack.

While enjoying our food this fellow comes over and asks about my Ylang Ylang shirt - a place we stayed in Costa Rica earlier this year. Jonathan had not only been but knows the owners quite well and had stayed for a few months. I regretted not getting a photo of the two of us but being a small island it was not shocking that we would cross paths again that evening while we were out eating. This time Gayle did take our photo.

In the afternoon we headed to the north end of Lipsi - 5 kms or only 10 minutes by car. A very pretty drive along the coast during which we could admire the deep blue of the sea and a number of goats along the way.

There was not much at the end other than a few fishing boats in the small harbour and one of the many churches in Lipsi. However a km before there was a decent beach - Platis Gialos, meaning wide shore. The beach is easily accessible at the end of a bay that apparently can be affected the strong winds but was calm during our visit / swim. There is now a taverna if one was staying longer.

After returning to Rizos Studios, where we enjoyed that piece of baklava we purchased - excellent, and relaxed before heading to dinner at Manoli's Tastes, a restaurnant that is highly recommended, including by Captain Jason. We were given a nice table on the flat in what was a beautiful outdoor setting. Gayle started with the Bruschetta with smoked eggplant and goat cheese (just ok) before having a Salad with Pear and Goat Cheese, comprised of lettuce, rocket, baked pears, cheese, croutons and honey vinaigrette (very good). Norm could not resist the grilled octopus - presented in sliced pieces rather than a whole tentacle (excellent). We were treated to limoncellos after our meal.

After dinner we got to chatting with the couple at the next table - Kathryn and Phil from outside Manchester, England and then another couple - John and Eileen from Scotland. During our chat Chef Manoli visited our (and all other) tables to say hello, and as mentioned we ran into Johnathan again. We shared experiences withg Kathryn and Phil until well past 10:00 pm, actually being the last one's to leave the restaurant.

A few photos of Rizos Studios - so pretty with the Greek blue colours.

The road to Rizos Studios.

The view to sea from Anna Rizos Studios.

Spinach pies and a cinnamon bun, along with coffee for breakfast in the port.

There are numerous cafes, or ouzerias, serving ouzo, small Greek tapas, beer and wine. These are two.

Fishing boats and sail boats in the harbour.

As mentioned previously each day we will inevitably come across goats during our travels.

Platis Gialos. The north-east coast of Lispi.

Fishing boats in the harbour of Moshato Bay.

A church at Moshato Bay on the north tip of Lipsi.

The colourful waters of the bay culminating in beautiful Platis Gialos, being enjoyed by Gayle.

Apparently Platis Gialos is known for its (friendly) ducks.

I Love Lipsi.

Our 'George' rental car. They were everywhere.

Two guys goofing around while I was taking the above 'I Love Lipsi' photo.

A fisherman working his nets in the port.

From the bakery our first piece of baklava of the trip - certainly not our last.

The settting sun spotlighting a small church and a donkey.

Tonight we ate at Manoli's Tastes.

Primarily outdoor seating in a square.

Norm and Johnathan. Chef Manoli.

Bruschetta with smoked eggplant and goat cheese. Grilled octopus.

Pear and Goat Cheese salad. Limoncello's were tonight's 'gift'.

Back: John and Eileen; Front: Phil and Kathryn. Kathryn and Phil.

The Monastery of St. John the Theologian. By monastery standards very 'new' being built less than 100 years ago, in 1931.

September 23, 2025 - Patmos to Lipsi (Anna Rizos Studios)

Moving day. We awoke to another glorious day of sun and warmth. We enjoyed a final breakfast at 9 Muses, chatting with Gerta and Vasilis. Late morning we were off to fill the car with fuel (only 13 euros for the four days on the island) and return the car, then to wait for our Dodekanisos ferry.

What could have been a much shorter (20 minutes) ferry directly to Lipsi turned out to be somewhat longer at 1 hour 25 minutes as the Dodekonisos Express first went to Agathonisi before returning to Lipsi.

The seas were reasonably calm.

Very much appreciated was how staff handled luggage, storing it for passengers in locations based on destination.

Upon arrival in Lipsi our 'George' rental car was waiting for us at the port, along with a George taxi driver. The car rental experience was quite similar to Sikinos where a car was waiting for us with a key. We gave the fellow cash and off we went. Pretty much the same thing here. Take the car and return it in four days at which time we pay. The taxi driver led us up to Anna Rizos Studios where he dropped off our luggage and left. Unfortunately we could not get in as there was no-one there to greet us. Fortunately we had our vehicle so back down to the port and the George office we went. Ms. George got on the phone and connected with Nektaria who told us which unit was ours and that there was a key in the door. So back up the hill we went and made our way into our studio. How sweet is this place. Two rooms, a nice table to work on, comfortable (although twin) beds, and two terraces, one looking to the sea and the other to the hills behind the building.

After settling in we drove down to the port where we saw a board at To Pefko that was advertising Paella as the dinner special. Restaurant decision done. And excellent the paella was, with three very large tasty shrimp, mussels, and other fish amongst the rice. Gayle had two dishes (with a little help from Norm) she very much enjoyed - Militzanosalata, a salad of smoked aubergine and Bougyiourti Pikantiko, a dish of tomato, feta, oregano, spices and olive oil. Both were excellent.

It is a three minute drive back up the hill to Anna's to bring an end to our first day on Lipsi. First impressions are very positive. We expect we are going to very much enjoy our time here.

Another morning and another huge yacht in the passage outside 9 Muses.

Two of our favourite orange things - a cat and juice.

The most ingredients we have ever had in scrambled eggs - delicious.

Gerta delivering huge trays of breakfast.

Onsite host Vasilis.

Enjoying our time at 9 Muses.

Beautiful pillows in the breakfast area.

Gerta and Gayle. Gayle and Vasilis.

The kitchen lady. The bartender and coffee maker. Gerta the server.

Colourful flowers (somewhat of a rarity this time of year) and a bakery in Skala.

Fishermen in the harbour.

Our friendly car rental guy. Gayle waiting (with others) for the ferry.

The Dodekanisos Seaways Express. A (hard to see in a photo) map of the Dodecanese.

A few images of our super cute room at Anna Rizos Studios.

Tonight's restauarant choice was To Pefko, in large part because of Today's special being Paella.

The restauarnt has three levels - on the left the lower; then where we were seated and more seating above.

Melitzanosalata or smoked aubergine salad.

Bougyiourti Pikantiko - tomato, feta, oregano, spices and olive oil.

Beautifully presented seafood Paella.

September 22, 2025 - Patmos (9 Muses)

Another chilled day in Patmos. We started with the regular filling breakfast after which we went to Petra Beach for a swim. After changing, we drove to Chora where we wandered through the alleyways of the hilltop town, dominated by the massive Monastery.

"The Monastery of Saint John the Theologian also called Monastery of Saint John the Divine is a Greek Orthodox monastery founded in 1088. It is named after St John of Patmos the author of the Christian Book of Revelations who, according to the text, lived on the island when visions of the apocalypse came to him. Since its founding, the monastery has been a pilgrimage site and a place of Greek Orthodox learning and worship. The monastery is unique in that it integrated from its founding the surrounding community of Chora, which was built around its fortifications. Religious ceremonies that date back to the early Christian period are still practiced within the monastery today. Because of its sacred significance, uninterrupted architectural evolution, and the exceptional preservation of early Christian customs, the monastery was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, along with the town of Chora and the nearby Cave of the Apocalypse."

It was amazingly quiet as we walked through the alleyways of the lower portion of Chora. The views to the countryside, the sea and the nearby windmills is stunning from this elevated position. We did come across a couple of elderly ladies simply passing time and a few other tourists meandering about.

One episode somewhat ruined the experience, that being Gayle getting into a bit of a kerfufle with a shop owner when she took a few pictures of some clay cats (details with the photos below).

Afterwards we returned to Petra Beach and Ktima Petra for dinner. Gayle had a Greek salad (not having one in a few days) along with potatoes in the oven (guaranteed to have been roasted separate from any goat or lamb) while Norm had the goat with oven potatoes. The goat was unusually meaty, with only a couple of small bones and very little fat.

A short drive had us back at 9 Muses where we turned in.

The front of our suite at 9 Muses.

Passengers being tendered from the cruise ship to / from port.

The vikkage if Grikos. Sailboats in Petra Bay.

Enjoying a swim at Petra Beach.

Vineyards and pomegranets near Petra Bay.

Another church in the countryside. The three towns of Patmos.

The three widnmills of Patmos.

The Monastery from the back side.

This way to the Monastery.

A very imposing structure, we were fine with just taking photos from below.

As mentioned there was an 'incident' when Gayle took a photo of these cats, they being outside a shop in the alleyway. The owner came out of his shop and told Gayle she could not take any photos. While there was a sticker indicating not to handle the merchandise there was nothing indicating one could not take photos. Plus they were in a public space.

The shop owner then stated, quite forcefully, Gayle had no appreciation of artists to which she pushed back noting we have considerable pieces of art in our home, and yes she did.

The shame of it was the pottery (and cats) were very nice and we very well may have bought something. But after being berated there was no way that was going to happen.

A few of the cats of Chora - all very polite.

We came across this woman first resting in the square of Chora but them actively engaged in a conversation with another friend who happened by.

A guard; a door and a window - sites in Chora.

Alleyways of Chora.

Dinner tonight at Ktima Petra, adjacent to Petra Bay and Petra Beach.

Gayle had not had a Greek salad in a few days so ...

Oven roasted potatoes. Goat in the oven. Helva as our dessert 'gift'.

September 21, 2025 - Patmos (9 Muses)

First, a little bit about Patmos (actually named Latmos in antiguity). Historical discoveries indicate that the ancient Acropolis of the isalnd was inhabited in the Middle Bronze Age, with the first residents being the Dorians, followed by the Ionians. The walls of the Kasteli date back to the 6th and 4th centruies BC. During the 12th century Patmos was invaded by pirates and later, after the fall of Constantinople to the Turks in 1453 P received a significant number of refugees who contributed to the prosperity of Chora.

Recently Patmos was occupied by the Italians from 1912 to 1943. In 1948 Patmos officially became part of Greece.

In 1981 Patmos was officially recognized by the Greek Parliament as the Holy Island. In 1999 the island was established globally when the Holy monastery of Saint John the Theologian, the Holy Cave of the Aprocoplis and the medieval village of Chora were included as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The EU includes Patmos among the seven most important worship destinations in Europe, no doubt a reason the island being a cruise ship destination.

Today the 3,000 residents live mainly in Chora, Skala and Kampos. Sunny summers, a mild Mediterranean climate, peaceful ambiance, dry rocky hills and small valleys blend together to provide an attractive array of beaches, bays, ports, and isolated havens.

Across the island there are many small chapels, 180 of which are recorded, although there are indications there may be over 400. The capital, Chora, itself apparently has 51 churches.

Being only 45 square kilometres it is very easy to drive from one end of the island to the other, as well as to various beaches. Today we passed through Skala and toured the north end of Patmos, first to Kampos and then across the barren hills to Lambi Beach, easily accessible by car, on the northeastern coast. Here we had our first swim of the trip.

The beach is known for its rare colourful pebbles. In fact its name means 'sparkling' coming from the shimmering azure waters and the way the pebbles sparkle in the sunlight. Over the years the number of pebbles has diminished such that their removal is now forbidden by law.

After returning to 9 Muses we headed out for dinner, again to Flisvos, where we enjoyed another tasty meal. Norm started with the Talagani grilled cheese with fig jam and sesame, while Gayle again had the Chickpeas in the Oven with Rosemary, provided they would be shared, which they were. Again simply delicious. Then Gayle snatched the last Yemista - stuffed tomatoes while Norm had a large mouth-watering serving of Moussaka. A glass of Patmos wine for Gayle and Retsina for Norm accompanied the meal.

After dinner we got chatting with the diner at the next table - Captain Jason (Vavlitis). Jason has spent his life sailing the Greek islands, most recently on his yacht Elegance. He has sailed the equivalent of eight times around the world, starting with a four year journey from Boston to Greece. When hearing we were going to be visiting Leros, he provided a wealth of suggestions (restaurants, museums, places to visit), along with restaurants in Lipsi.

And so another day on Patmos begins.

Our room Melpomene - the Muse of Tragedy. Beautiful plates for breakfast.

Just some of our breakfast choices this morning.

Gayle enjoying her breakfast.

The entire pool, and sea beyond, from the lounge above the breakfast area.

The church in the square of Kampos.

A cute taverna in the centre of Kampos. Which way? Church or beach?

A grizzly Greek goat herder.

The drive from Kampos to Lambi Bay - a few buildings dotting the hillside with views to the sea, and barren land with nothing but rock.

Never a day without goats on the rocky rural Greek islands.

The coast of north Patmos. Not surprising to have wind turbines.

Known for its colourful pebbles there was nothing impresssive from a distance but as one got near the water they certainly did glisten in the sun.

We made it into the water. Our first swim of the trip - Lambi Beach. Another beachgoer offered to take a photo of both of us. So kind.

Happy Happy! Nappy Nappy!

Dinner back at Flisvos with views of Petra Bay from the restaurant.

The attractive interior of Flisvos.

Talagani grilled cheese with fig jam and sesame. Chickpeas in the Oven with Rosemary (again).

Yemista (or Gemista) stuffed tomatoes. Moussaka.

After dinner we got chatting with the diners at the next table - Katie and Captian Jason (Vavlitis).

Jason has spent his life sailing the Greek islands, chartering his yacht Elegance. He has sailed the equivalent of eight times around the world, starting with a four year journey from Boston to Greece.

When hearing we were going to be visiting Leros each provided a wealth of suggestions (restaurants, museums, places to visit), along with restaurants in Lipsi.

We chatted for well over an hour, sharing stories of travelling.

September 20, 2025 - Patmos (9 Muses)

Breakfast here at 9 Muses is customized to each individual's preferences and certainly exhaustive. Starting with coffee of one's choice (espresso, capucchino, Americano, espresso freddo, capucchino freedo) and freshly squeezed orange juice - we watched it being squeezed. There is toast (nothing special), jams, tomato, cucumber, olives and feta, cereal or muesli, eggs - fried, boiled, omelette or scrambled (delicious) filled with whatever one wants - ham, bacon, mushrooms, peppers, onions, tomato etc., yoghurt with fresh fruit, honey or both, a large fresh fruit plate and a serving of cakes.

Breakfast is served by Gerta, from Athens but in Patmos for the summer to earn enought euros to purchase her first vehicle. Very accommodating and helpful she was easy to chat with, sharing her story of family, education etc. We enjoyed her company.

After breakfast we lounged around our suite, watching the boats (small cruise ships, ferries, and sailboats) come and go.

Late afternoon we went out for a drive towards Chora. While we saw the windmills circulating in the still substantial wind we passed on going up into Chora, leaving it for another day. We then continued on to Skala where we wandered a bit through the very cute port side town, set up to accommodate cruise passengers - both with food and shopping opportunities.

We decided to have dinner at Tzivaeri, across the road from the harbour. We ordered quite light - Gayle the Zucchini flowers stuffed with rice accompanied by a dip of Greek yoghurt and Norm the Lamb kebabs with potatoes. Good food.

After eating we headed back to 9 Muses to bring a mostly relaxing day to an end.

The view from our breakfast area over the pool to the sea.

Freshly squeezed orange juice. The full breakfast.

Breakfast could include an omelette. And / or a bowl of yoghurt with fruit and / or honey.

Gerta, our friendly breakfast server.

Cruise ships and ferries come and go throughout the day and evening.

The imposing Monestary (that looks more like a castle) high on the top of Chora.

Views to Skala from Chora.

The fully functional windmills of Chora, including a short video.

Although we resisted tempation there were lots of sweets and treats to be had, including gelato.

A fellow passing away the afternoon at a cafe.

Likely cruise ship passengers strolling through the alleyways of Skala.

Tables set up in the alleyway likely for cruise ship passengers.

Tzivaeri Taverna - our restaurant on the harbourfront tonight.

Stuffed (with rice) zucchini flowers. Lamb kebab.

September 19, 2025 - Patmos (9 Muses)

After a good sleep we awoke to enjoy a nice breakfast at Hotel Byzance before checking out. We can't empasize enough how grateful we were for things working out as well as they did - for us realizing the Dodekanisos ferry was cancelled due to the Meltemi winds and our fortune in finding a nice hotel so near to the port. As mentioned it could have been so so much worse.

We picked up our rental car (the cutest little blue car) as planned and off we were on a 6 km / 10 minute drive - nothing is far on Patmos - to our next stop - 9 Muses. We were warmly greeted by Vasilis who escorted us to our upgraded Suite. Not sure why we were upgraded but happy we were. A beautiful unit, with both a large inside seating area and a very large terrace with wonderful views to the bay and passing sailboats, ferries and cruise ships.

For dinner Vasilis recommended nearby Flisvos in Petra Bay, known for their chickpeas in the oven - very appealing to Gayle - and goat. We enjoyed a great meal and equally nice chat with a number of the staff. We shared the Fried zucchini balls with Feta cheese mousse followed by, of course, Chickpeas in the Oven with Rosemary for Gayle and no not the goat but rather the Sausages with leek for Norm. All were delicious. With the taverna closing for the year in two days - a bit early but there is an impending birth in the family so they are shutting down - there was a 'sale' on wine. As a result we ordered a botttle of 3 Genies - a winery north-west of Thessaloniki near the border with North Macedonia - 36 euros offered to us for 19 euros.

The menu included a history of the family / taverna. I chatted with Katerina who offered to forward an English copy via email (below). An excellent meal made even better by chatting with the family. We promised to return Sunday, their last day open for the year.

It was a very short (perhaps three minutes) drive back to 9 Muses to bring the day to an end.

_________________

It was sometime between 1956 and 1959 when grandfather Kyriakos, sitting next to grandmother Sofia, was gazing out over the bay of Grikos. The decision had been made – this would be the place for their tavern. All that remained now was to find the right name. The setting was peaceful, the sea gently lapping at the shore … and then came that sound – that soft, comforting sound of the waves – and with it, inspiration. But not entirely his own.

– Give me a name, he asked his friend, Dr. Gazis.
– Don’t you hear it?
– Hear what?
– Don’t you hear it? It’s calling you.
– What’s calling me?
– The flisvos of the sea.
– Huh?
– Call it Flisvos.

And just like that, through a simple conversation, a name was born – one that would carry through the decades.

After three years of hard work, Kyriakos – along with about 30 workers – managed to complete the building of the restaurant, in a remote location where everything had to be brought in by boat. In 1959, Flisvos opened its doors for the very first time: the first restaurant in Grikos, and the second on the entire island of Patmos. With care, craftsmanship, and a wood-fired oven for all his cooking, he began to win over the hearts of the early visitors.

The real change came after 1970, when tourism slowly began to emerge on the island. Grandfather Kyriakos, faithful to quality and flavor, passed his passion and knowledge on to his sons, Floros and Pavlos. In 1980, he handed over the reins. One, with his natural gift for connecting with people, drew in more and more guests; the other, by creating a signature recipe, gave Flisvos its own gastronomic identity.

Together with their wives, they elevated and expanded the family business, keeping tradition alive in a modern world. For 35 years, they carried on with care and respect for their roots.

Today, 66 years later, the flame is kept burning by the grandchildren – Kyriakos and Kyriakos-Valantis – who continue the vision of their grandparents, walking the path of modern gastronomy with deep respect for the past. Flisvos remains a landmark in Grikos – not only for its flavors, but for the story it carries.

A story that began with a sound.
The sound of the sea. "

Our stay at Byzance Hotel was short but surprisingly nice, including a good breakfast served by smiling and cheerful staff.

There was the cucumber, feta, tomatoes staple. And various pies and custard filled pastries.

Pretty painted buildings in Skala.

Boats in the harbour.

Church bells above one of the many churches in Skala.

A couple of small churches on the drive to 9 Muses.

And a donkey.

Our beautifull (upgraded) suite Melpomene, the Muse of Tragedy, at 9 Muses.

The couch inside and seating area outside.

Our host Vasilis. The view from our drive along the coast.

View from our terrace.

The 9 Muses pool. A table with lots of cushions in the breakfast area.

Our welcome drinks - a Greek beer for Norm; a capucchino freddo (a Greek speciality) for Gayle.

Dinner tonight, as recommended by Vasilis, was at nearby Flisvos Restaurant / Taverna.

Views from our table at dinner.

A bouzouki on display. Another view from our table. Pretty painted chairs.

We couldn't resist an end of season sale on wine. Fried zucchgini balls with feta cheese mousse.

Flisvos' famous chickpeas in the oven. Sausages with leek.

Hard at work (?) in the kitchen.

It all began with Kyriakos and Sofia, who fulfilled their dream to open the restaurant in 1959

Flisvos is a family run taverna. Here is Flores. And Kyriakos - Valadis.

Katerina. Katerina, Sophia and Flores - all smiles.

September 18, 2025 - Ikaria to Patmos (Hotel Byzance)

It could have ended up so much worse.

Our plan for today

enjoy another nice breakfast,
perhaps go to the thermal hot springs, and
have dinner on the beach at a taverna out near the airport.

Norm went to the bakery to get another cheese pie, some bread and cookies. Check. Fresh orange juice made. Check. Yogurt with fruit and honey. Check. A tasty breakfast. Check.

But then late morning we were checking the time of tomorrow's ferry when we noted there were no more tickets for sale. &*%$#&%(*$%!!! We immediately hopped in the car and drove to the ferry office where we inquired about the absence of tickets. While the agent never mentioned the ferry had been actually cancelled (it turned out it was) she confirmed there were no tickets to be had. Our options were

wait until Sunday, or
take the Blue Star this evening (8:40 pm) from Evdilos on the other side of the island.

We almost simultaneously concluded Option 2, which meant

checking out today - fortunately we had plenty of time,
arranging to return the car this evening in Evdilos rather than tomorrow morning in Agios Kirykos, and
book a hotel in Patmos.

The check out was no problem although we of course had to pay for ther room, which was totally fair as we used it until nearly 5:00 ish. The switch to the car rental was also easy although there was a cost of 25 euros to meet Theo and drop the car off in Evdilos. That said he very generously refunded us 35 euros for the most of the day we ended up not using the car. The final piece was finding a hotel in Skala, the port of Patmos within walking distance of the port. We connected with Hotel Byzance who had a room for a very reasonable 87 euros. Yes the room was small but very functional with a desk, screens on the windows, air conditioning, a hair dryer, and a decent buffet breakfast included - really everything one would want.

The drive to Evidos was fine with us arriving a couple of hours in advance, enough time to have a bite to eat at one of the harbour side tavernas. The food was pretty much as expected - an ok Greek Salad and not so great frozen french fries. Although he was 15 minutes late we connected with Theo from the car rental agency. He nicely drove us around the port right to the holding area for the ferry boarding. The ferry ended up being late, not leaving until after 9:00, and as a result late arriving in Patmos but the walk to the hotel was exactly as advertised - very short. Check in was efficient and we were soon sound asleep.

The day included a consider amount of anxiety but a far better outcome than had we bought our tickets a day or two earlier and simply showed up not realizing the ferry was cancelled due to the high winds being experienced - 60 k/hr with gusts up to 80 k/hr. When travelling via ferry in Greece one has to be prepared for the odd glitch. Fortunately we survived this one without too many scars.

Up early this morning to catch the sunrise.

After which it was off to the bakery where freshly baked cheese pies were coming out of the oven.

We want to make maximum use of our juicer - love that fresh Greek orange juice in the morning.

What a wonderful way to start the day.

The Chef's Special Greek Breakfast courtesy of Norm.

The tower unit (not our unit). The view from the common terrace area.

Life in a hammock.

Pyrgos ... in Greek. Vassia.

A selection of Ikarian wines.

And Ikarian honey of which we bought a bottle to have with our yoghurt.

A nice mirror in the reception area.

Memories of Gayle's jelly fish bite in Sardinia. I couldn't resist a local Ikarian sour cherry drink.

A Greek salad and Fries - we weren't expecting a high end meal while waiting for the ferry in Evdilos, and got what we expected - a decent Greek Salad but obviously frozen, not hand cut fries.

Not our original plan but in the end it seemed fitting that we took the Blue Star Patmos to Patmos.

Our small but very functional room at Hotel Byzance - and at a great price.

September 17, 2025 - Ikaria (Pyrgos Traditional Village)

with a drive to Evdilos and the eastern half of the island

We awoke to another 'not a cloud in the sky' gorgeous Greek morning. Breakfast was similar to yesterday during which we planned our next two days. Today we decided to drive to the north coast, then west to Evdilos; then south and east back to Agios Kirykos, with a planned stop for dinner in Xilosirtis and tomorrow perhaps the thermal hot springs and dinner at a taverna on the beach out towards the airport.

We left just after noon for what was indicated as a two hour drive (which we knew would take us four hours) in a counterclockwise direction. We first ascended the mountain providing expansive views to the south and east to Samos, and Turkiye beyond. Along the route we noticed some traditional stone homes with slate roofs, a military installation (no photos allowed), lots of roadside thistles, and bee boxes where the bees do their thing to provide the tasty Ikarian honey. Throughout the drive the rich blue sea is always visible.

As we continued east to the port of Evdilos we stopped at a bakery where we bought a bougatsa, a Greek breakfast food (sweet or savoury) or mid-day snack. There are several versions each with their own filling, the most popular being bougatsa kerma / cream with a sweet semolina custard. The taste of bougatsa varies between regions of Greece. For example, bougatsa cream in Veria (west of Thessalonki) is very sweet and full of cream, while in Thessaloniki itself the bougatsa cream is crunchy and not that sweet. In Chania, Crete the cheese is made of local mizitra cheese (not sweet) but sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon. Similar to Veria, the bougatsa cream in Athens is sweet and full of cream.

We sat on a bench adjacent to the harbour of the pretty port town of Evdilos where we ate our bougatsa.

We then continued our drive a bit east and then south again through the mountains during which we came upon a number of very cute sheep and goats. We love seeing the animals near, or at times on, the roads during our travels. Stone buildings, some with slate roofs, and small churches were seen along the way. Upon reaching the south coast (and the sea) we headed east until reaching the small village of Xilosirtis. Totally out of proportion to the village itself, but very impressive is the massive church.

We easily found Arodou, a restaurant with fabulous views of the sea where we enjoyed a great late afternoon meal. Gayle started with one of the best tzatziki we have ever had while I had the Kathoura - Icarian goat cheese with oil and oregano. Delicious. Gayle then enjoyed the Grilled vegetables comprised of peppers, zucchini, eggplant and mushrooms while Norm had Meat patties (beef and pork) stuffed with cheese. Also excellent. We accompanied the meal with a bolttle of Karimalis Aralle Dry Red. Not the best wine we have ever had, perhpas because it was served chilled, but decent just the same. Our kind server Rosa was wonderful, chatting a bit with us about her travels throughouth Greece after our meal.

It was a short 20 minute drive back to Agios Kirykos during which we stopped for more oranges for tomorrow's breakfast.

Again starting our day with another full and tasteful breakfast on our balcony.

Local Ikarian honey is perfect for enhancing the taste of the yoghurt with fruit, in this case peaches.

Flowers, figs and olives.

A few of the stone buildings comprising Pyrgos Traditional Village.

Looking east towards Samos from the road crossing the mountains of Ikaria.

A slate roof building in the mountains. No more photos as we were approaching a military base.

Wild heather attracks the bees and makes for tasty honey.

Lots of thistles along the roadsides.

Honey is a significant product here in Ikaria with bee boxes throughout the countryside.

The road hugging the mountainside.

The blue Aegean Sea as enjoyed on our drive along the north coast.

A bit of colour seen on our drive.

Ripe quinces.

Pretty much in the middle of nowhere (in this case east of Evdilos) at times one encounters these somewhat out of place massive churches.

Beaches and the north coast of Ikaria.

Pretty buildiings and seaside restaurants / tavernas surrounding the port of Evdilos.

Along the way we purchased this pasty (a bougatsa) that we enjoyed on a bench adjacent to Evdilos harbour.

More photos of us in Evdilos.

A couple of small boats In the harbour.

No doubt too many photos but we love the goats and sheep on these remote Greek islands.

A definite 10 on the cuteness scale.

A stone building with a slate roof. A small church in the mountains, again with a slate roof.

The small village of Xilosirtis has a LARGE (beautiful) church, way out of proportion to the village.

Taverna Arodou.

The view from our table. Relaxed in Greece.

Baskets of fresh ingredients.

The lower oudoor area. Hard at work in the kitchen.

Kathoura (goat cheese in oil). Tzatziki. Both with bread.

Grilled vegetables. Meat patties stuffed with cheese.

Our bottle of Ikarian wine. Our 'gift' of ice cream for dessert.

Rosa and Gayle.

September 16, 2025 - Ikaria (Pyrgos Traditional Village)

Day two ... for the most part copy and paste day one, except for breakfast

We decided to do our own breakfast to enjoy on our balcony with our expansive views of the sea. The previous evening we purchased some yoghurt, coffee, a peach and oranges. But what about a cheese or spinach pie? Having slept in quite late ... 9:30 am ... I got in the car and off I was to the nearby bakery where the baker was still baking the day's bread. I bought a couple of cheese pies (the only type they had) and a variety of cookies (along with water and a bag of tapas / potato chips).

Back to Pyrgos Traditional Village where I got to work preparing breakfast for us. While gone Gayle bought a jar of Ikarian honey from the reception area which topped the yoghurt with peaches. Then out came our orange juice squeezer we had purchased a few years ago during a previous trip to Greece. Three oranges for a smaller glass for Gayle and four for a larger glass for me. Cost $3.37 Cdn for two glasses of freshly squeezed OJ - the labour was free. Fresh and delicious. Then the cheese pies, a plate of Greek cookies and some leftover Greek salad from the first night.

The rest of the day was spent in and around our unit, researching what we might do and where we might go over the next couple of days ... and of course for me having the compulsarary nap, today again on a comfy lounge chair by the pool.

For dinner we again went down to the port, eating at Paprika, a Grill House. We each had what the restaurant calls 'a Portion' - a plate of pita bread, tomatoes, a few greens, for Gayle onions (I passed), tzatziki, french fries and a choice of skewered meat (I had a kebab - a beef and pork mixture) or for vegetarians a number of falafal patties. When I saw retsina in a bottle I could not resist. So much better than that drink they called retsina I had last night.

It is a fairly short five to ten minute drive up the hill towards Panagia and then down the quite rough, narrow lane to Pyrgos Traditional Village, where still quite tired from our flight overseas we again turned in early.

A basket of loaves of bread. Butter and seeds added before going into the oven.

Prepping the bread for baking. And into the oven.

Rusks and cookies on the shelves.

A few years ago when in Greece we bought a juice squeezer. We have brought it with us every year since in order to have fresh orange juice, squeezed as Loris would say "With love".

While our breakfast yesterday was ok we decided to make our own today. Starting of course with coffee (our unit has a Nespresso machine) and fresh orange juice. Yoghurt with cut peaches and Ikarian honey. Some leftover feta, tomatoes and cucumber from last night and from the bakery cheese pies and a selection of cookies. All enjoyed on our balcony overlooking the Aegean sea.

As good a breakfast as we would want. We just may have to have the same tomorrow.

Our room's clothes closet. The terrace with a cane 'roof' to provide some shade.

Our 'napping' bench. The kitchen.

The view from our terrace. Agios Kirykos waterfront and harbour.

Tonight we ate at Paprika on the waterfront.

Where I enjoyed some 'real' retsina.

Each of us had what was described as a 'Portion' - pita bread, french fries, tomatoe, for Gayle onions, a few greens, tzatziki and meat (kebab for me) or falafel (for Gayle).

September 15, 2025 - Ikaria (Pyrgos Traditional Village)

We expected we would be tired our first day ... and we were, spending the entire day, except for a trip to the port for dinner, in our unit. We woke a number of times during the night, once even getting up during a break in the howling winds to sit on our terrace under the moon and stars.

Pyrgos traditional village, originally built to form a small community, is a traditional neighborhood of 8 detached buildings of various types. It is a small village on top of Agios Kirykos. The village incorporates traditional, mostly local materials, surrounded with olive trees, gardens with local herbs and vineyards. Each room reveals a panoramic view of the Southern Aegean Sea. Narrow stone-built paths lead to the central pool, gardens, and the parking area.

Photo from Pyrgos Traditional Village website

The ruins of a little tower mill positioned on top of Agios Kirykos, gave birth to the idea. ‘Pyrgos traditional village’ is almost a 20 year-building project, new houses and restoration, all with traditional architecture methods. The stone was directly excavated from the site, the clay, the sand, the canes, the slate slabs, most of the wood all from the island.

Three breakfast options are provided - the Standard tray, Traditional tray and Super Food tray. Gayle had the standard tray consisting of jam, slow baked sourdough local bread, Icarian honey, cereal / oat flakes, edam cheese, boiled eggs, orange juice, coffee and a seasonal fruit (today figs) while I had the Traditional tray with soft goat cheese and local dried fruits. We ate breakfast in a nice garden area. While the tables were small for the large trays with no one else there, other than a couple of very polite cats, we each had our own table.

As mentioned most of the day was spent in our attractive stone built unit with wonderful views of the Aegean Sea. An afternoon nap by the pool was enjoyed.

We did go into town for dinner, ending up at Klimataria, a cute taverna set in a back alley. One would think it would be protected from the wind but not so. Gayle had the special of the day - a very healthy chick pea, vegetable soup but then countered that with a not-so-healthy very large serving of french fries. Norm, in addition to helping eat the fries, had saganaki (fried Greek cheese) followed by lamb in lemon sauce. The food was good but the drink not so. The retsina was the strangest amber colour I've ever encountered and the taste ... not the retsina I am accustomed to and not good at all. The red wine was not much better. With water and bread the meal came to 42.0 euros.

Back up and then down the hill to Pyrgos Tradional Village where, in spite of the early hour, we called it a night.

The standard breakfast tray. The traditional tray. Oats with dried fruit and local honey.

Nicely painted Greek chairs around the breakfast tables.

Breakfast came with well behaved cats - no additional cost.

The view from Pyrgos Traditional Village to Samos.

The circular tower unit. Ripening grapes. Not a lot of colour this time of year but some bougainvellia.

Pyrgos Traditional Village's pool.

The common area above our unit with great views out to the sea and nearby islands.

A few shots in Agios Kirykos - an interesting fellow; a bench leading to an alley; and a church.

Tonight's taverna - Klimataria. Set in an ally. Serving awful wine and retsina.

Chick pea and vegetable soup. Being enjoyed by Gayle.

Hey it is vacation - fries (these were hand-cut) are ok! Saganaki - fried cheese with lemon.

Roasted lamb in lemon sauce with roasted potatoes. 'Free' dessert.

Three gentlemen playing cards while one appears to be having a nap.

The cat brigade waiting at one of the tavernas.

September 13 -> 14, 2025 - Halifax to Montreal to Athens to Ikaria (Pyrgos Traditional Village)

Off again for our fall trip to Greece (and Turkiye). For Gayle her 12th time in Greece and for me my 10th - she went twice in her teens before we met.

This year we are returning to the Dodecanese, where we visited in 2018. We start in Ikaria, an island we visited (at least the western half) in 2019 before working our way south all the way to Kastellorizo from where we will cross over to Turkiye for eight days, returning to Rodos and then home.

Everything went smoothly starting with our friend Brian Slaunwhite entertaining us as he delivered us to the airport. All fights departed and arrived on time, except the Air Canada flight from Montreal to Athens that was 45 minutes early, meaning we had to be bussed to the terminal as there was no gate available. The only slight glitch was that we could not check in for our Sky Express flight until three hours before departure leaving us a couple of hours to spend in a restaurant where we purchased a lemonade and a coffee in order to be able to sit and use their internet.

Upon arrival we picked up our rental car and headed the half hour or so to Agios Kirykos in search of Pyrgos Traditional Village. One missed turned but with some helpful directions from a fellow at a gas station we figured it out, arriving near 6:30 pm.

We were greeted by Vassia who checked us in, showed us to our room, and arranged to order us some food to be delivered. We chose a Greek Salad and a gyros - in this case pork cooked on a vertical rotisserie, then sliced and served wrapped or stuffed in pita bread, along with other ingredients such as tomato, onion, fried potatoes, and tzatziki. Both hit the spot.

As is always the case when flying to Europe, although it was still early we were exhausted, so much so that I don't recall my head hitting the pillow.

Nothing like a glass (or more) of Prosecco to get us in vacation mode.

Arancini in the Montreal Maple Leaf lounge. A selection of food at the Sky Express lounge in Athens.

Our gate is Open for boarding. Deplaning in sunny Ikaria.

Our plane taking us from Athens to Ikaria; more or les 45 minutes.

Our room Piscina, adjacent to the pool. A nice touch. Our bedroom.

After not arriving until after 6:30 pm we had no interest in heading out for dinner.

Fortunately Pyrgos Traditional Village will arrange for food to be delivered. The pizza joint was closed so we went with the alternative that included a pork pita gyro and a large Greek salad.

Both, delivered, cost only 11.50 euros.

Although we had eaten a bit in the lounges it was great to have some more food.

And there is nothing better to start the trip with than a Greek salad.

Photo courtesy of Brian Slaunwhite.

Mamma Mia here we go again

back to Greece for the fourth consecutive year.

This year we are returning to the Dodecanese (some of whihc we visited in 2018)in the south-eastern Aegean Sea, along the border with Turkiye.

In fact we will be spending 8 nights in Turkiye, between the town of Kas and Marmaris.

Our itinerary will take us south from

the island of Ikaria (five nights), one of the five 'blue zones' in the world, regions where people live significantly longer and healthier lives,
to the island of Patmos (four nights), then on to
the island of Lipsi (also four nights), then
the island of Leros (again four nights), before returning to
the island of Rodos / Rhodes where we will stay a couple of nights in Rhodes town followed by four nights further south-west.
then it is to the small island of Kastellorizo for three nights before crossing over to Kas in Turkiye where we will work our way north for eight days staying at two places along the way
then a ferry from Marmaris back to Rhodes for a final two nights again in the city of Rhodes followed by three nights in the ancient town of Lindos.

A total of 39 nights we return October 24th.